NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Bender248

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I am starting planing my build. Parts list:
ASUS Z170I Pro Gaming Motherboard
Intel i7 6700k or i5 6600k (not sure what to go for, watercooled)
SF600 — 600 Watt 80 PLUS with custome length cables
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3000MHz or taking over RAM I already use in my PC
Intel 600P 512GB M.2-2880 PCI-e 3.0 x 4 NVMe 3D NAND Solid State Drive
EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 8192MB GDDR5 (fully watercooled)
LF REACTION 160MM RESERVOIR or M1 NCASE RESERVOIR
2x 240mm slim rad (bottom and side) - not sure yet what to choose
4x slim fans

Goal - silent or as quiet as possible. CPU + GPU + bottom rad and res would be done with hard toobing (what size should I go for?), side res will be ten connected with soft tubing for better flexibility. What do you think about it? Any advices?


That build will not be quiet, or even silent, because of the liquid cooling there's always going to be a pump noise, also you're being ambitious with the space, sounds more like an ATX build. The only reason to do water cooling in the NCASE is for the look. Save money by going air cooling, the system will really be quiet at that point, and spend the money on the i7 and a 1080. Skip the SF600, the 450 is quieter and plenty for the system unless you maybe plan on going for a titan X. Also I'm half certain that the FTW editions are too wide for the NCASE.
 

Qrash

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That build will not be quiet, or even silent, because of the liquid cooling there's always going to be a pump noise, also you're being ambitious with the space, sounds more like an ATX build. The only reason to do water cooling in the NCASE is for the look. Save money by going air cooling, the system will really be quiet at that point, and spend the money on the i7 and a 1080. Skip the SF600, the 450 is quieter and plenty for the system unless you maybe plan on going for a titan X. Also I'm half certain that the FTW editions are too wide for the NCASE.

One person was able to fit an FTW using (really) low profile 90 degree PCI-E power adapters. I didn't think that would be slim enough, but apparently it is.
 
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If you feel confident it will fit, try it. I personally would write the manufacturer.

But there is no electrical issue with touching the back of the IO ports as these are also protected. Just to be safe you could put a thin plastic foil between the IO ports and the heat sink.

I did, awaiting for their reply.

maybe a little rubber might help them to prevent electrical issue.
 

s4dus

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That build will not be quiet, or even silent, because of the liquid cooling there's always going to be a pump noise, also you're being ambitious with the space, sounds more like an ATX build. The only reason to do water cooling in the NCASE is for the look. Save money by going air cooling, the system will really be quiet at that point, and spend the money on the i7 and a 1080. Skip the SF600, the 450 is quieter and plenty for the system unless you maybe plan on going for a titan X. Also I'm half certain that the FTW editions are too wide for the NCASE.
What do you mean? Lots of people posted here that their watercooled Ncase is very quiet or near silent.
 

anak85

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What do you mean? Lots of people posted here that their watercooled Ncase is very quiet or near silent.
If you want less than 20dB you should go for air cooling.

Quiteness is always relative. If someone says their system is quiet doesn't mean the next person thinks the same way. My fans are all below 20dB.

Have a look at the reviews of the water cooling system you plan on buying and the noise levels that are states there. Then you can compare.
 

rfarmer

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What do you mean? Lots of people posted here that their watercooled Ncase is very quiet or near silent.
For my radiator I use 2 Blacknoise Noiseblocker Multiframe S-Series which are 73 cfm, 1800 rpm and 27dB at max. Mine run usually at 50% so below 20 dB. I am using a Swiftech Apogee Drive II pump/block and I can't hear the pump over the fans and I can barely hear the fans.

As a note, these are the only 2 fans in my computer. I have no fans for heatsink, gpu or additional case fans. So I would happily compare my watercooled build to an aircooled build at gaming loads with their gpu's going full blast.
 
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s4dus

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For my radiator I use 2 Blacknoise Noiseblocker Multiframe S-Series which are 73 cfm, 1800 rpm and 27dB at max. Mine run usually at 50% so below 20 dB. I am using a Swiftech Apogee Drive II pump/block and I can't hear the pump over the fans and I can barely hear the fans.

As a note, these are the only 2 fans in my computer. I have no fans for heatsink, gpu or additional case fans. So I would happily compare my watercooled build to an aircooled build at gaming loads with their gpu's going full blast.

Can you link me your spec and pictures?
 

rfarmer

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Can you link me your spec and pictures?
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/q2hqqs This was how it looked originally, I haven't updated the pics yet. This shows a 92mm bottom fan which was serving no purpose so I removed it and a GTX 970 which has been updated to a GTX 1070 FE with a Aquacomputer block and backplate.

I should mention also that this cools incredibly well. My 6600k is OCed to 4.5 GHz and max temps are 48C, 42C on the 1070 after extended gaming. If I am running benchmarks it only gets to 38C.
 

s4dus

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https://pcpartpicker.com/b/q2hqqs This was how it looked originally, I haven't updated the pics yet. This shows a 92mm bottom fan which was serving no purpose so I removed it and a GTX 970 which has been updated to a GTX 1070 FE with a Aquacomputer block and backplate.

I should mention also that this cools incredibly well. My 6600k is OCed to 4.5 GHz and max temps are 48C, 42C on the 1070 after extended gaming. If I am running benchmarks it only gets to 38C.
You have just 1 rad? Is it a slim rad or regular size? That pipes look so think, what size are they?
 

rfarmer

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You have just 1 rad? Is it a slim rad or regular size? That pipes look so think, what size are they?

Yes just the one radiator. It is a Black Ice Nemesis GTS 240 278mm x 133mm x 29.6mm. You say pipes, do you mean tubing? The tubing is EK 3/8 X 5/8.
 

RIRed48

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Ok, I know the answer to this, but I'm hoping I'm wrong...

I need to put a stick of ram in the open slot on my Asus Z170 MB. So, side fan bracket off first, then the 1080, and my Noctua HSF(C14)... will be in the way and I have to remove that as well to get the ram in? What a PITA.
 

Qrash

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Ok, I know the answer to this, but I'm hoping I'm wrong...

I need to put a stick of ram in the open slot on my Asus Z170 MB. So, side fan bracket off first, then the 1080, and my Noctua HSF(C14)... will be in the way and I have to remove that as well to get the ram in? What a PITA.

This might be easier:

  1. Remove the side bracket, disconnecting its fans first.
  2. Remove the bottom fan from the NH-C14. You should be able to slide it out the top of the case. Use long needle nose pliers to unhook the fan clip near the graphics card.
  3. Disconnect the power cables from the power supply.
  4. Unfasten the power supply from it's bracket and remove it out the side of the case.
Now you should be able to reach in from the side and/or the top to insert the ram module.

This is why I highly recommend plugging splitters and extension cables into the motherboard fan headers so that you can easily remove fans and the side bracket without the need to unplug them from the motherboard.
 

Chapeau

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Ok, I know the answer to this, but I'm hoping I'm wrong...

I need to put a stick of ram in the open slot on my Asus Z170 MB. So, side fan bracket off first, then the 1080, and my Noctua HSF(C14)... will be in the way and I have to remove that as well to get the ram in? What a PITA.

Can't just pop off the top panel and sneak them in from the top?
 

Bender248

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Can't just pop off the top panel and sneak them in from the top?

Tricky but doable, I think

dnoWXaW.jpg
 

anak85

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I'll take a look later this morning... not really awake yet. Looking at the pic, how would I push down on the ram stick to get it in? (the far end)

You should be able to fit your hand in between the heat sink and the motherboard. Here the view on my system. I don't think it'll be difficult.

FUMXbtO.jpg

FUMXbtO
 

anak85

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yeah, I think so too, will have to revisit the case soon, although everything is running fine and temps are quite low.

mounting the PSU fan out definitely didn't help.

I tried to bunch up all the excess cable below the PSU. That is why I didn't show you a close up picture from the side angle :)

In what sense is the PSU fan out a bad idea? For the cables or are there some temp issues?
 

Bender248

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I tried to bunch up all the excess cable below the PSU. That is why I didn't show you a close up picture from the side angle :)

In what sense is the PSU fan out a bad idea? For the cables or are there some temp issues?

my rational was that with the fan pointing out there would less hot air going in the PSU and the components would breath a bit better. That said I haven't seen a lot of people that setup their PSU the same way, so I thought maybe there's something I am not aware of...
 

anak85

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my rational was that with the fan pointing out there would less hot air going in the PSU and the components would breath a bit better. That said I haven't seen a lot of people that setup their PSU the same way, so I thought maybe there's something I am not aware of...

Well, the reason people sometimes state for the inward facing fan is so that the PSU doesn't draw dust in this way. I guess the passive cooling it receives from the fan in the side bracket is enough to keep it cooled because my fan has never spun up during normal use.
 

linux.alucard

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I would like an effective AIO on a Zotac GTX 1070 Founders Edition GPU so I am considering Alphacool Eiswolf 120 GPX Pro but found no information about the heating of either the VRM or the memory unit heat dissipater.I would like to know whether I can run it with passive cooling or it should be additionally fanned by a pair of 120 coolers. Another possible solution could be the EVGA HYBRID Water Cooler KIT where,similarly to the FE configuration,the heat generated by the VRM/MEM can be ruled out,the blower cooler's noise,however,is something to reckon with.
 

rfarmer

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I would like an effective AIO on a Zotac GTX 1070 Founders Edition GPU so I am considering Alphacool Eiswolf 120 GPX Pro but found no information about the heating of either the VRM or the memory unit heat dissipater.I would like to know whether I can run it with passive cooling or it should be additionally fanned by a pair of 120 coolers. Another possible solution could be the EVGA HYBRID Water Cooler KIT where,similarly to the FE configuration,the heat generated by the VRM/MEM can be ruled out,the blower cooler's noise,however,is something to reckon with.

I looked at Alphacool blocks when I was water cooling my GTX 970, the vrm and vram are passively cooled by the fins on the block. They state "A new sophisticated injection system means the GPU is actively cooled. All other chips are sufficiently cooled by the passive cooler which is also in contact with the watercooling block for extra efficiency." If you go this route bottom intake fans would be a plus, cooling the passive parts of the block.
 

Chapeau

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Ok, I took the opportunity to take some pics of my case without custome cables. Have a look and tell me what you think.

http://imgur.com/a/5yE6V

IMO the money for custome cables is better spent elsewhere...

I have so many questions...
1) How is the whale attached
2) How are temps of watermelon versus whale

And an actual serious comment: I'd agree on the cost issue of custom cabling - my partner was rather dubious when I was trying to explain just how delicious custom cables are. I think she said something along the lines of "You're getting cables for the inside of the computer that you won't be able to see?"
 

Chimaera43

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OK, so those of us that missed the original Noctua NH-C14 but want the C-shaped CPU cooler design with a large slow spinning fan are out of luck? Is there something out there that is not made of unobtainium?
 

Chapeau

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OK, so those of us that missed the original Noctua NH-C14 but want the C-shaped CPU cooler design with a large slow spinning fan are out of luck? Is there something out there that is not made of unobtainium?

Heaps to choose from:
Phanteks PH TC14CS
Raijintek Pallas
Xigmatek Janus
Cryorig C7
Reeven Stereopes
Thermalright AXP-200
Scythe Big Shuriken Rev B / Kabuto 2
 

anak85

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I have so many questions...
1) How is the whale attached
2) How are temps of watermelon versus whale

And an actual serious comment: I'd agree on the cost issue of custom cabling - my partner was rather dubious when I was trying to explain just how delicious custom cables are. I think she said something along the lines of "You're getting cables for the inside of the computer that you won't be able to see?"

How do you know about the watermelon? :) Did I previously post a picture?

The exterior design is my girlfriends input to the system. The whale performs better.

I think I agree with your partner, as long as there is no significant improvement (temperature or visual) to be gained.

Here the old design :)

image.jpeg
 

anak85

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OK, so those of us that missed the original Noctua NH-C14 but want the C-shaped CPU cooler design with a large slow spinning fan are out of luck? Is there something out there that is not made of unobtainium?

Actually, not too many do. The Dark Rock TF has fitment issues with RAM and graphics cards. It will only fit if the CPU socket is far enough from these components.

Keep checking Ebay / Craigslist for the NH-C14. Get someone to ship it from Germany (still often on Ebay here).

I think the Darkrock will have the second best temps. Qrash, do you know what happened to the list of mobos and cooler clearances in Excel? Are there a few mobos known to work with the Darkrock?
 

Chapeau

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How do you know about the watermelon? :) Did I previously post a picture?

The exterior design is my girlfriends input to the system. The whale performs better.

I think I agree with your partner, as long as there is no significant improvement (temperature or visual) to be gained.

Here the old design :)

View attachment 10521

I remember seeing the Tivoli Model 2 when I was build hunting :geek: and finding inspiration - the quirky watermelon stuck out also. Two unique things in one image...
 

Nox

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Keep checking Ebay / Craigslist for the NH-C14. Get someone to ship it from Germany (still often on Ebay here).

got my c14 off a google shopping link a couple months ago - brand new. I guess some supplier just found an old box ot the back and added it to their website - i actually checked it wasn't the updated model bfore ordering! :) ebay is mostly second hand for the same prices

Nox
 

rfarmer

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sighduck

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Hey guys, had some specific questions around fan setup for intake/exhaust with a dual AIO setup (h75/sea hawk 1080):
  • Assuming I can fit a 120mm fan on each radiator, a 92mm fan in the rear, and possibly 2x 120mm fans on the bottom. What would be the optimal push/pull on each?
  • Should the radiator fans be on the outside or inside of the radiator?
  • On the fans themselves, I'm planning on going with the normal NF-F12's for the radiators, NF-A9 for the rear, and NF-S12A's for the bottom. Are there any other fans worth considering, and are the redux or industrial models worth considering, and finally is PWM worth getting?
Thanks!
 

incredadamible

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missed the original Noctua NH-C14 but want the C-shaped CPU cooler design with a large slow spinning fan are out of luck

If you are in western Canada (Edmonton, Calgary, Vancouver), try Memory Express. They have the NH-C14 in stock in a bunch of stores...they are also showing 3 online. $89.99 CAD (edit: $66 USD) is reasonable...not the best deal, but way better than $200+ on amazon!!

Link is here. Product info is definitely for the C14 with a 105mm height (C14S is 115mm)...
 

pslate

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If you are in western Canada (Edmonton, Calgary, Vancouver), try Memory Express. They have the NH-C14 in stock in a bunch of stores...they are also showing 3 online. $89.99 CAD (edit: $66 USD) is reasonable...not the best deal, but way better than $200+ on amazon!!

Link is here. Product info is definitely for the C14 with a 105mm height (C14S is 115mm)...

Thanks for the link! Too bad they don't ship to the US.
 

anak85

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Hey guys, had some specific questions around fan setup for intake/exhaust with a dual AIO setup (h75/sea hawk 1080):
  • Assuming I can fit a 120mm fan on each radiator, a 92mm fan in the rear, and possibly 2x 120mm fans on the bottom. What would be the optimal push/pull on each?
  • Should the radiator fans be on the outside or inside of the radiator?
  • On the fans themselves, I'm planning on going with the normal NF-F12's for the radiators, NF-A9 for the rear, and NF-S12A's for the bottom. Are there any other fans worth considering, and are the redux or industrial models worth considering, and finally is PWM worth getting?
Thanks!

Here my thoughts:

- Only get PWM. DC controlled 3-pin fans cant go as low rpm as PWM.

- The 92mm exhaust is a waste of money. I am 99% sure there will be no temp difference with it running as the case has plenty of exhaust holes in the top of the case. Save the money!

- I am no AIO expert. I read somewhere pull is better on the NCASE M1 so that you could clean the dust from the other side when required. The side panel dust filter doesn't stop all the dust and having to remove the fans before you can clean the radiator is surely a pain!

- the rest sounds good. I have 1x120mm and 1x140mm at the bottom. One is fixed with double sided foam strips and doesn't move.
 
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