![[H]ard|Forum](/styles/hardforum/xenforo/logo_dark.png){kind=logo}
NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)
- Thread starter wahaha360
- Start date
rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- May 9, 2014
- Messages
- 1,169
Hydro Series™ H100i Extreme Performance CPU Cooler You might want to look at that one instead, the v2 doesn't have swivel bards on the cpu block which makes it very hard to use in the limited space.
Or the Corsair h105 is also a good choice.
Yes and yes it can be.
I'd be very surprised, considering those holes have been there since V1 in 2013 and weren't designed for any specific piece of hardware.Hey guys trying to do some research before buying this case. I wanted to know if this:
fits onto the front mount another user pointed out here:
Thnx, good tip!
iFreilicht
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2014
- Messages
- 1,348
Hey, did you guys recommend using the anti-static wrist strap and can you touch the case to discharge electricity (without wearing the strap) when building? I usually use the wrist strap, but the metal alligator clips usually ends up scratching the case and this NCASE was just too sexy, I didn't want to scratch it
I also hear of people plugging the PSU first into the case, and plugging it into the wall socket but having the PSU in the "OFF" position to ground? this seems really risky to me, couldn't you accidentally have the psu on one time and fry everything?
Let me know guys!
Just touching the case will only bring your body and the case to the same potential, not ground anything. If you are statically charged while doing this, you'll charge the case and could damage components when installing them. In theory, if you touch all the components on a ground point (i.e. USB plug shield on motherboards), they will all be charged equally, so even then nothing goes wrong. The safer option is to actually ground yourself to earth.
To ground yourself, plug the PSU into the wall without installing it anywhere, and then touch it's outer shell. You are now on ground potential. If you touch the case at the same time, it will be grounded, too, since you're the path of least resistance for any potential static charge to go. After that, you normally don't need to be earthed continuously if you stay at your desk and don't walk around.
If you're using a wrist strap, you can also get a connector that grounds it to a wall socket.
I don't see how plugging the PSU in could be unsafe in any way, it can't turn on without the motherboard being connected to it.
rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- May 9, 2014
- Messages
- 1,169
Hey guys trying to do some research before buying this case. I wanted to know if this:
fits onto the front mount another user pointed out here:
Even if the holes line up the psu is in the way.
Planning a build with this case soon when the 1080's are easily availble. What is the consensus on the best air cooling setup? I assume I should find a blower style card and based on previous comments the nhc14 for the cpu seems like a good choice. What about fans for the rest of the case?
Curiositie
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2014
- Messages
- 465
I like how you've gotten a larger screen but you still ended up with more room than before.
I built mine yesterday with a 5820k + x99e ITX board, a few of them around but not many users opted to go ncase + x99. Anyway, the case is everything I expected, which is sexy asf, super lightweight and even smaller in person. Very easy to build. I definitely have seen 2 orientations of the CPU coolers, that is people doing it transverse or longitudinal. I did a bit of research and asked around, it seems logical to me having it longitudinal would allow for better air flow? you could put a 120mm in the side bracket as well to allow for almost direct intake. If you do it transverse, the cpu intake is right on the GPU backplate, and it just doesn't seem like enough air there.
I opted for a 1080 reference/founders edition aswell because that seems to be the best from my research (have a crappy r7 370 temporarily in the case). I also went with the S12A noctua CASE fans, I've seen people recommending the F12's but those are radiator/heatsink fans and are a bit louder (quieter system is what i want), so I would imagine their S12A specifically designed case fans would be fine.
I have about ~25mm of space for a rear exhaust 92mm fan, but I don't know if it's necessary based on the orientation of my CPU cooler?
*I also will say the Corsair SF600 cables really suck IMO, they are super stiff and quite thick, and getting the 24pin connected was barely doable actually (in terms of length) on the x99e-ITX/ac board because of where its located. Cablemod invidividually sleeved Modflex cables maybe? Does anyone recommend default (mm) or should I try to measure and customize?
rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- May 9, 2014
- Messages
- 1,169
I built mine yesterday with a 5820k + x99e ITX board, a few of them around but not many users opted to go ncase + x99. Anyway, the case is everything I expected, which is sexy asf, super lightweight and even smaller in person. Very easy to build. I definitely have seen 2 orientations of the CPU coolers, that is people doing it transverse or longitudinal. I did a bit of research and asked around, it seems logical to me having it longitudinal would allow for better air flow? you could put a 120mm in the side bracket as well to allow for almost direct intake. If you do it transverse, the cpu intake is right on the GPU backplate, and it just doesn't seem like enough air there.
I opted for a 1080 reference/founders edition aswell because that seems to be the best from my research (have a crappy r7 370 temporarily in the case). I also went with the S12A noctua CASE fans, I've seen people recommending the F12's but those are radiator/heatsink fans and are a bit louder (quieter system is what i want), so I would imagine their S12A specifically designed case fans would be fine.
I have about ~25mm of space for a rear exhaust 92mm fan, but I don't know if it's necessary based on the orientation of my CPU cooler?
*I also will say the Corsair SF600 cables really suck IMO, they are super stiff and quite thick, and getting the 24pin connected was barely doable actually (in terms of length) on the x99e-ITX/ac board because of where its located. Cablemod invidividually sleeved Modflex cables maybe? Does anyone recommend default (mm) or should I try to measure and customize?
Regardless of which cables you go for I would suggest this Corsair SF Series Shorty's Ensourced made a small cable adapter for the Corsair 18 + 10 to 24 pin. You can use a regular 24 pin extension with that. EnSourced has them up to 800mm. With your 24 pin location I would think at least 500mm.
Last edited:
Thanks. The asrock x99 is what I am going to use. So you used the nhc14? Post your temps when you get the 1080 in there.I built mine yesterday with a 5820k + x99e ITX board, a few of them around but not many users opted to go ncase + x99. Anyway, the case is everything I expected, which is sexy asf, super lightweight and even smaller in person. Very easy to build. I definitely have seen 2 orientations of the CPU coolers, that is people doing it transverse or longitudinal. I did a bit of research and asked around, it seems logical to me having it longitudinal would allow for better air flow? you could put a 120mm in the side bracket as well to allow for almost direct intake. If you do it transverse, the cpu intake is right on the GPU backplate, and it just doesn't seem like enough air there.
I opted for a 1080 reference/founders edition aswell because that seems to be the best from my research (have a crappy r7 370 temporarily in the case). I also went with the S12A noctua CASE fans, I've seen people recommending the F12's but those are radiator/heatsink fans and are a bit louder (quieter system is what i want), so I would imagine their S12A specifically designed case fans would be fine.
I have about ~25mm of space for a rear exhaust 92mm fan, but I don't know if it's necessary based on the orientation of my CPU cooler?
*I also will say the Corsair SF600 cables really suck IMO, they are super stiff and quite thick, and getting the 24pin connected was barely doable actually (in terms of length) on the x99e-ITX/ac board because of where its located. Cablemod invidividually sleeved Modflex cables maybe? Does anyone recommend default (mm) or should I try to measure and customize?
Also, did all of the current crop of mobos drop Msata ports? I bought 2 500 gig Samsung 850 for my current gaming laptop and would love to use one of them.
Hi Scott, funny I have the same configuration lined up for my M1 build. Wanted to go for AIO CPU cooling but I'm leaning towards Noctua air cooling. How does your NH-U9S performs, is it any good for overclocking and still keeping things cool, do you have some results? Ideally I wanted to use the C14S but this doesn't seem to fit well. Do you have any pictures of your system?
I'm also waiting for a good pascal GPU as the 1080 is a little disappointing if it comes to 4K gaming, so I might want to wait until a TI or Titan will be released.
EVGA card dimensions have been updated, for anyone interested: EVGA - Products - Graphics - GeForce 10 Series Family - GTX 1080
mSATA is dead. M.2 replaced it a while ago.
Qrash
Gawd
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2014
- Messages
- 995
There are mSATA to M.2 adapters, though a search often leads to the opposite (M.2 to mSATA adapters). Another option may be mSATA to SATA adapters, though clearly this results in two cables per device versus none with an onboard mSATA or M.2 connector. Good luck!
BST4R
n00b
- Joined
- May 25, 2016
- Messages
- 43
I recommend the H105 as well
Speed-Driven
Weaksauce
- Joined
- May 20, 2016
- Messages
- 72
Does anyone have a recommendation for sleeved cable kits for Silverstone SX600? I tried ensourced.net and I don't think they have anything in stock.
I'll have to try one of those. Think it will fit on the board with cramped space already?
I would go with cablemod if you were just wanting to buy a set.
If you wanted to save some money you can do it yourself for a fraction of the price. I use cable from mainframcustom when I do mine. Not hard to do, just takes a little time.
Last edited:
No, I used the noctua nh-u9dxi4. I saw some people using the Narrow ILM bracket for the noctua nhc14 but some of them were having to bend the springs or mod things so they could screw it on to the CPU, I didn't want to have to bend or mod anything, so I went with the u9dxi4 because its fits 100% .
QuantumBraced
Gawd
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2015
- Messages
- 594
It's funny, I am planning my M1 build as well, and is it very similar to Skott's. I hesitated for a while between the H80i, the NH-D9L, and the NH-U9S. I believe the latter two are the best 2 air coolers you can put in the M1 if you need to use the other 120mm slot on the bracket (which I do for the EVGA 1080 Hybrid when it comes out) Otherwise, the NH-C14 outperforms them by a little, but you lose that other 120mm slot. The H80i is a 40mm rad and you can only use 1 of the fans, and even then it's an extremely tight fit with not much clearance, plus the thick, sleeved hoses come straight out of the CPU block without a swivel fitting, which makes the fit even worse. With that config you don't get much airflow. Slimmer 30mm or less single rads from Corsair and others fit, but Noctua's NH-D9L and NH-U9S outperform them or are on par at worse, and I personally prefer the look, the less clutter, and the quieter operation of those air coolers.
So then the question is -- NH-D9L or NH-U9S. Well I found this review:
Noctua NH-D9L and NH-U9S CPU cooler review - Noise levels - Sound pressure readings
And the NH-U9S outperformed the NH-D9L in every category, including noise and by a decent margin. It even came within 4 degrees of the NH-D15 at load with an 4790K OCed to 4.6GHz, and the NH-D15 outperforms a H100i. So the NH-U9S is the clear choice for the M1 if the tests were done correctly. The question is -- how do you orient the cooler/fans? The two most common orientations I've seen is the two fans exhausting (with one attached to the 92mm exhaust on the M1), or the cooler rotated so that both fans are exhausting toward the top. I think if you have 2 intake fans on the bottom, the latter configuration makes more sense in terms of airflow, especially if you're using a liquid-cooled card.
Anyway, sorry for the babbling, just my thoughts regarding the best way to single slot cool your CPU in the M1 -- and that is with a Noctua NH-U9S.
Last edited:
Speed-Driven
Weaksauce
- Joined
- May 20, 2016
- Messages
- 72
thanks for the link.. but I don't think they have any for Silverstone.
Whoa, I feel stupid but what is the point of that shorty cable? the corsair SF600 comes with a 24pin ATX why would you need an adapter?
The H105 exceeds the radiator + fan thickness recommended by NCASE. Any opinions on this?
What is the chance of the Corsair AIO leaking inside the NCase? Because the case is so small, everything would be ruined
Qrash
Gawd
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2014
- Messages
- 995
Others have posted here that they used the H105 instead of the new revision of the H100i due to its more flexible hoses.
rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- May 9, 2014
- Messages
- 1,169
If you want to have custom sleeved cables. The Plugs on the PSU are 18 + 10 and combine into 24 pin, trying to sleeve these leads to a tangled mess. You can also just use a 24 pin extension with the shorty.
Last edited:
rfarmer
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- May 9, 2014
- Messages
- 1,169
He is going on vacation from 6/10 - 6/16 everything on the site is showing as out of stock until he gets back.
All the cards will fit the M1 with the exception of maybe the FTW. For the FTW it lists:
One of those is incorrect. If the correct measure is 5.064" (12.862 mm), it has a chance to fit the M1 using that Power Link thing.
I wonder what would be quieter/better performing, the radial fan version or the smaller ACX 3.0, considering the M1 is not so good with open air coolers.
shinjinian
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2016
- Messages
- 103
I'm kind of tempted to build an Alice like frame and battery pack for my Ncase lol. VR backpack PCs are real, and kind of awesome
Crossposting from the ArsTechnica forums:
Greetings!
I have been lusting after the NCASE M1 crowdfunded mITX case since its inception. To celebrate a new job, I sold my very decent gaming rig to a friend for a bargain, and went balls-to-the-wall with a new high end Mini ITX build. I started off by ordering the NCASE M1, which takes a while to deliver as they ship from Taiwan. In that time, I did my research for parts. I wanted high end performance that made sense. Its 75% gaming, 20% web browsing, 5% photo editing. With that in mind, here is the part list:
Case: NCASE M1 v5 (Black)
MOBO: Gigabyte Z170N-Gaming 5
CPU: Intel i7 6700k (Currently overclocked to 4.7Ghz)
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x8GB PC3000 (Currently overclocked to PC3333)
GPU: NVIDIA Geforce 1080 Founders Edition (EVGA)
SSD #1: Samsung 950 m.2 512GB NAND (OS, Apps, some games)
SSD #2: Samsung 840 EVO 750GB (Games.)
PSU: Corsair SF600 (SFX form factor is TINY)
CPU COOLER: Corsair H100i v2
GPU INTAKE: Noctua NF-F12
MONITOR: ASUS PG279Q G-SYNC 165Hz IPS
Some observations on the part picking process:
* The case is everything I expected it to be. It's tiny, it's elegant, it's light, and its very well thought. You can tell its a labour of love as the attention to detail could not be more meticulous. I am very satisfied with this case, and the only drawback is the time it takes from ordering to receiving it. So if you are planning a build with an NCASE M1, order it well ahead of time so that you have it with you by the time you are ready to purchase the rest of your parts. I am a meticulous cable manager and I had to throw that notion out the window, here the cables were pushed to wherever I could fit them without interrupting what little airflow there is. And speaking of airflow (or lack of), I only have one fan bringing fresh air into the case, and that's straight into the Geforce 1080 intake. The Corsair H100i v2 fans are running at a low RPM bringing air into the case, which brings motherboard temperature up, but it does not seem to be having a negative effect on stability. Even in the NYC summer without the central AC running temperatures do not seem to be as much of an issue as I thought they would be. Everything is under control.
* I chose the Gigabyte motherboard because it has the m.2 slot on the rear, which means the Corsair H100i would not be dumping hot air right on top of it. Normally I buy ASUS, but their mITX product is overpriced and does not include an m.2 slot. Ran into some issues with RAM speed that took me an entire day to troubleshoot, turned out to be either a bad BIOS, or bad Windows drivers that were swapped once the BIOS was re-flashed to the latest version.
* After much deliberation, I chose the Founders Edition 1080 because an open cooler GPU dumping hot air into such a small cramped space seemed like a horrible idea. I am still miffed that the FE costs an extra $100. The reference cooler is a thing of beauty, but I will never be seeing it buried inside the NCASE M1. The fears of unstable Turbo-boost have been unfounded, using Afterburner I have increased the voltage and overclocked +200Mhz/575Mhz, and adjusted the fan curve slightly. The GPU can consistently run over 2Ghz for extended sessions of gameplay without issue. Noise levels have been less of a concern than expected because I find myself gaming at high volumes, or with a noise cancelling Bose headset. I won't go into details on how fast the video card is because you all already know its really, really fast.
* The 512GB Samsung 950 m.2 might be overkill, but wow is it fast. It's also very space efficient as it slots right into the motherboard and requires no cables, so I only had to deal with one conventional drive. The Samsung 840 EVO 750GB is the only part I carried over from my previous build. With no spinning drives, the only moving parts are fans and the radiator pump.
* There was a lot of indecision as to which monitor to purchase. I really wanted to go balls-out with ASUS's top of the line ROG SWIFT PG348Q but I could not pay $1,300 in good conscience seeing as these panels have been coming with some QC issues, and can't go over 100Hz. I am very satisfied with the panel I ended up with, the ROG SWIFT PG279Q. Microcenter was gracious enough to let me open it in store to test for stuck pixels and light bleed, and I got lucky with the first panel. No dead/stuck pixels that I have been able to find, and the back light bleed is very even and not an issue at all. Excellent panel. G-SYNC up to 165Hz is a joy, and the IPS colors are lovely.
* HOW DID I LIVE THIS LONG WITHOUT A MONITOR ARM!? Turned off by the garish bling that was the stand on the ASUS SWIFT monitor, I found a used Ergotron MX Desk Mount and it has been a revelation. It's mounted to an Ikea Bekant desk and it's a thing of beauty. The build quality is incredible, the motion fluid and robust, and I can easily clear my desk for work space. Seriously, if you can, invest in a good monitor arm!
Here is a short video I made to demonstrate for a friend:
It was a VERY difficult build. The case is superb, but it's very small so you have to sit down and plan very well how you are gonna go about things. I had to re-assemble the whole thing at least three times because of basic things like not plugging a cable in the right place at the right moment, leaving no room to do it later. Fitting the Corsair H100i V2 was a huge pain in the ass and required a lot of effort, but its working well and is keeping the temperatures low with low noise under high clocks in benchmarks. The build has been running flawlessly after the initial hiccups with RAM speed and latency. I am surprised with the overclocks I have managed, so far the CPU is very stable at 4.7Ghz, and the video card over 2Ghz. The rig is benchmarking in the Top 150 3DMark Firestrike scores for single Geforce 1080 rigs.
Now here are some pictures:
Greetings!
I have been lusting after the NCASE M1 crowdfunded mITX case since its inception. To celebrate a new job, I sold my very decent gaming rig to a friend for a bargain, and went balls-to-the-wall with a new high end Mini ITX build. I started off by ordering the NCASE M1, which takes a while to deliver as they ship from Taiwan. In that time, I did my research for parts. I wanted high end performance that made sense. Its 75% gaming, 20% web browsing, 5% photo editing. With that in mind, here is the part list:
Case: NCASE M1 v5 (Black)
MOBO: Gigabyte Z170N-Gaming 5
CPU: Intel i7 6700k (Currently overclocked to 4.7Ghz)
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x8GB PC3000 (Currently overclocked to PC3333)
GPU: NVIDIA Geforce 1080 Founders Edition (EVGA)
SSD #1: Samsung 950 m.2 512GB NAND (OS, Apps, some games)
SSD #2: Samsung 840 EVO 750GB (Games.)
PSU: Corsair SF600 (SFX form factor is TINY)
CPU COOLER: Corsair H100i v2
GPU INTAKE: Noctua NF-F12
MONITOR: ASUS PG279Q G-SYNC 165Hz IPS
Some observations on the part picking process:
* The case is everything I expected it to be. It's tiny, it's elegant, it's light, and its very well thought. You can tell its a labour of love as the attention to detail could not be more meticulous. I am very satisfied with this case, and the only drawback is the time it takes from ordering to receiving it. So if you are planning a build with an NCASE M1, order it well ahead of time so that you have it with you by the time you are ready to purchase the rest of your parts. I am a meticulous cable manager and I had to throw that notion out the window, here the cables were pushed to wherever I could fit them without interrupting what little airflow there is. And speaking of airflow (or lack of), I only have one fan bringing fresh air into the case, and that's straight into the Geforce 1080 intake. The Corsair H100i v2 fans are running at a low RPM bringing air into the case, which brings motherboard temperature up, but it does not seem to be having a negative effect on stability. Even in the NYC summer without the central AC running temperatures do not seem to be as much of an issue as I thought they would be. Everything is under control.
* I chose the Gigabyte motherboard because it has the m.2 slot on the rear, which means the Corsair H100i would not be dumping hot air right on top of it. Normally I buy ASUS, but their mITX product is overpriced and does not include an m.2 slot. Ran into some issues with RAM speed that took me an entire day to troubleshoot, turned out to be either a bad BIOS, or bad Windows drivers that were swapped once the BIOS was re-flashed to the latest version.
* After much deliberation, I chose the Founders Edition 1080 because an open cooler GPU dumping hot air into such a small cramped space seemed like a horrible idea. I am still miffed that the FE costs an extra $100. The reference cooler is a thing of beauty, but I will never be seeing it buried inside the NCASE M1. The fears of unstable Turbo-boost have been unfounded, using Afterburner I have increased the voltage and overclocked +200Mhz/575Mhz, and adjusted the fan curve slightly. The GPU can consistently run over 2Ghz for extended sessions of gameplay without issue. Noise levels have been less of a concern than expected because I find myself gaming at high volumes, or with a noise cancelling Bose headset. I won't go into details on how fast the video card is because you all already know its really, really fast.
* The 512GB Samsung 950 m.2 might be overkill, but wow is it fast. It's also very space efficient as it slots right into the motherboard and requires no cables, so I only had to deal with one conventional drive. The Samsung 840 EVO 750GB is the only part I carried over from my previous build. With no spinning drives, the only moving parts are fans and the radiator pump.
* There was a lot of indecision as to which monitor to purchase. I really wanted to go balls-out with ASUS's top of the line ROG SWIFT PG348Q but I could not pay $1,300 in good conscience seeing as these panels have been coming with some QC issues, and can't go over 100Hz. I am very satisfied with the panel I ended up with, the ROG SWIFT PG279Q. Microcenter was gracious enough to let me open it in store to test for stuck pixels and light bleed, and I got lucky with the first panel. No dead/stuck pixels that I have been able to find, and the back light bleed is very even and not an issue at all. Excellent panel. G-SYNC up to 165Hz is a joy, and the IPS colors are lovely.
* HOW DID I LIVE THIS LONG WITHOUT A MONITOR ARM!? Turned off by the garish bling that was the stand on the ASUS SWIFT monitor, I found a used Ergotron MX Desk Mount and it has been a revelation. It's mounted to an Ikea Bekant desk and it's a thing of beauty. The build quality is incredible, the motion fluid and robust, and I can easily clear my desk for work space. Seriously, if you can, invest in a good monitor arm!
Here is a short video I made to demonstrate for a friend:
It was a VERY difficult build. The case is superb, but it's very small so you have to sit down and plan very well how you are gonna go about things. I had to re-assemble the whole thing at least three times because of basic things like not plugging a cable in the right place at the right moment, leaving no room to do it later. Fitting the Corsair H100i V2 was a huge pain in the ass and required a lot of effort, but its working well and is keeping the temperatures low with low noise under high clocks in benchmarks. The build has been running flawlessly after the initial hiccups with RAM speed and latency. I am surprised with the overclocks I have managed, so far the CPU is very stable at 4.7Ghz, and the video card over 2Ghz. The rig is benchmarking in the Top 150 3DMark Firestrike scores for single Geforce 1080 rigs.
Now here are some pictures:
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
Speed-Driven
Weaksauce
- Joined
- May 20, 2016
- Messages
- 72
How much did you pay for it?
NeoMatriX724
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2007
- Messages
- 269
Crossposting from the ArsTechnica forums:
For the love of all that is holy, what cable did you use to connect the SATA power/cable? I finished my M1 build and that was by and large one of the largest issues I had. I managed to get my SSD and HGST drive installed, but am looking to cram a third one in...wondering if I can find a similar double power/data cable to do the trick.
Hermit2001
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2015
- Messages
- 116
The SATA data cable is a CP11 from Silverstone; they are a life saver in the M1. I'm afraid I can be no help WRT power cable.
$649.99 from Newegg.
Supposedly they are receiving more stock tomorrow if you are thinking about picking one up.
shinjinian
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2016
- Messages
- 103
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to try and snatch one up.
shinjinian
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2016
- Messages
- 103
I must have been a wizard the first time because I can't get my reference 290 back in the case lol. I was hoping to see if I'd have enough clearance for the 1080's with the fans. I gues I kind of accomplished that, I should be able to fit them but the backplate will have to come off. Luckily the card will have the fans for support, the advantages of sff where every component is so close it supports the next lol. I think I'll go the water cooling route when I rebuild it in a few years.
Edit: Unfortunately I wasn't a wizard when I first built it, I was just smart enough to remove the pci gap cover.
Edit: Unfortunately I wasn't a wizard when I first built it, I was just smart enough to remove the pci gap cover.
Last edited:
No Hands 55
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2014
- Messages
- 179
The H105 exceeds the radiator + fan thickness recommended by NCASE. Any opinions on this?
What is the chance of the Corsair AIO leaking inside the NCase? Because the case is so small, everything would be ruined
Worked fine for me. Sold it though so I could put my HDD on the side panel. Got a Dark Rock TF instead, almost exact same temps, h105 wins when under near 100% loads but not much that much.
