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They were changed to non-countersunk because the ends of screws on the bottom and side of a drive could contact each other, which resulted in a loose fit, or in the worst case, stripping the threads. Making the holes non-countersunk was the simplest fix. You can use whichever screws you want with it.I was going through my V1, V2, V3 accessories and noticed the 2.5 HD brackets have changed to allow for a closer fit on the V2 & V3 and also the brackets are no longer countersunk. Are we suppose to use non-countersunk screws on the newer revisions?
No. Maximum height for the M1 is 140mm, while that card is 152mm. This information is readily available on our site and ASUS's site.would an ASUS ROG GTX 980ti Matrix platinum card fit this case?
Yes, it's fine. We just needed to clean up the OP and remove anything that might look like a sales post or site pimping, per the forum rules.The topic was locked before but it is now unlocked. Is it OK if we continue talking here ?
I don't think anyone has an idea why this has happened.
Well first off, which PSU are you looking at? I'd recommend getting an SFX-L PSU for lower noise levels and the V5 has the newer PSU bracket for better clearance.
Yes, air is in general quieter at idle. Air cooling is also more than enough for a simple i5.
If you want quiet CLC cooling, you can probably get one with an adjustable pump, but most CLC's will drown out the sound of your other components at idle.
Given the prices of RAM, no one would fault you for choosing 1x 16 GB for the time being, but that's up to you.
I don't know anything about the Acer XB271HU, but considering the quality control issues on the old Predator, I'd stick to the ROG Swift PG279Q at least until you see some reviews.
I have a real issue with that SSD though. Not only is it super overpriced for the capacity you get, it's also way overkill for 99% of users.
I'm biased, of course, as I already own regular old SATA SSD's and am satisfied, but still.
If you have to go for a fast M.2 drive, I'd get the 128 GB SM951 and a 2 TB HDD. At least downgrade to the 256 GB 950 PRO and a 1 TB HDD.
It's just so much money out the window and trust me, they'll cost half as much in 1½ year. I bought my first SSD, a 64 GB M4, in May 2011 for 700 DKK,
my second SSD, a 128 GB M4, in November 2012 for 700 DKK and a 120 GB M500 for my dad in March 2014 for 400 DKK. Price halved every time. New tech, man, it just drops in price so quickly.
I wouldn't buy an M.2-SSD. Or at least only get the the smallest SM951 as suggested by XelNika. M.2-SSDs are a lot faster than SATA-SSDs, but as average user you won't notice the speed increase - unless you are constantly moving huge chunks of data, which in a case like the M1 without active cooling for the M.2-slot would quickly force the SSD to throttle.
Assuming that you are a more or less average user you won't gain anything from an M.2-SSD and you shouldn't spend that much money on that item. I would rather spend on large SATA-SSD if you need that space for games. Otherwise spend your money elsewhere. With the M.2-SSD out of the way, you also probably find other options for the mainboard (you don't seem to be that happy with your current choice).
I could say the same about the RAM: 32GB are overkill for an average user, and that won't change in the next three or four years. So if you aren't a poweruser in the media creation department, you probably want to consider a 16GB kit and save a lot of money.
As for the cooler: If you are considering an 120mm AiO-cooler, I don't see why you shouldn't go for a 240mm AiO-cooler instead. That's what the M1 was designed for. Is it because you are still using 3.5''-HDDs? In that case take some of the money you have just saved and spend it on a 2.5''-HDD.
I assume that you want to overclock. That's why you have picked that mainboard and a K-rated CPU, right? In the case I would go with a 240mm AiO-cooler. Yes, it is a bit louder in idle due to the pump, but you will need that extra cooling power for overclocking.
Personally I wouldn't overclock in the M1, especially not with GTX 980 Ti inside the case. Yes, it works. Many people do it. And there are some power supplies with enough power to do that. But just because you can do it doesn't mean that it is a good idea. I would rather pick the non-K Core i5 6600 and tweak the setup for less power drain and lower temperatures.
M.2 is just super tidy because you can ditch the SATA power and data cables.
I'd sooner recommend one of the SATA-over-M.2 850 Evos than go with a traditional form factor SSD. The M.2 850 Evo is pretty reasonably priced, especially against PCIe counterparts.
I just received my case and was wondering what is best configuration for radiator setup. Push or pull?
I have a substantially similar build and just posted that I got two AIOs to work
Temps aren't amazing compared to custom liquid or a large open case, but they're much better than running a blower on the 980ti. And with the limited cpu cooler compatibility with narrow ilm combined with the small case, an AIO for the cpu makes sense.
It is a bit tricky to get two AIOs to fit though.
The main noise producing element is the psu and the fans, which I'm replacing.
15340 in Firestrike with only a moderate GPU overclock of 1200mhz base.
I'm gonna be getting a 80mm fan to exhaust some of that heat out the back.
For those who wanted to know if the new EK Predator fits into the NCase M1, the simple answer is yes! Check this thread here at reddit, someone managed to stuff it in.
https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/3t2npq/ncase_m1_ek_predator_240/
http://imgur.com/gallery/wuWqz/new
For all the m1 owners with custom wc loops, please help comment on some of these items. I'm planning to use the items below:
Apogee drive ii
Frozenq ncase res
Ek full cover gtx 980 block (originally wanted to get a clear one but now leaning towards black)
Hwlabs nemesis gts 240 rad
Gentle typhoon fans (or ek vadars)
Bitspower matt black fittings
Feser 1 uv lime green coolant
Primoflex advanced lrt 3/8"-5/8" tubing
Some things I'm not certain about, primoflex lists this on their site about the tubing
...however the use of alcohols, Ethylene Glycol and as well as any other harmful chemicals is strictly prohibited and will void your warranty.
I'm under the impression that the feser 1 falls in the do not use category. Originally I wanted to get some uv cold cathode tubes and line them on the sides of the case, hence the lime green coolant but now I'm not sure, thoughts?
"Stuffed" would be an accurate description. What I find more interesting is what looks like a 25mm thick fan w/ SE series radiator fits snuggly at the bottom. Maybe a 240mm SE w/ 20mm thick fans could fit as well?
Hey, I'm the OP of that reddit thread. Yeah that's an EK SE 120mm with a Noctua Industrial PPC. It does fit really snug, and I was kind of lucky actually!
The thing is that the rad needs to go over the case IO cables area, so as not to bend them severely, and also so the tubes go behind the GPU.
If you try to accomplish that with a slimmer fan, then the rad wouldn't fit as it would bump into the IO cables. Maybe 20mm would be ok though, but definitely not 15mm.
Hello world !
After month of reading this topic lurking in the shadows, I finally chose every component for my Ncase that I would like to share with you :
NCASE M1 v3
Silverstone SX500-LG
GIGABYTE GA-Z170N-WiFi, Intel Z170
CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 2x 8GB DDR4, PC4-25600 (3200MHz) CL16
Core i7 6700K
Noctua C14 w/ P14 140mm fan on top, P12 120mm fan on bottom
Samsung 500GB 850 EVO
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
Panasonic UJ-265 BDRIP
and still looking at the complementary fans needed for the case.
Any advise/warning with such a configuration?
Only as mentioned above, with a lower fan on the C14 you'll most probably need a low profile USB3 header cable/adapter.
Also, the SX500-LG sounds a bit annoying when stressing the GPU, a whine/buzz and a tick from the fan. I'm sure this has been gone into on the board somewhere I just haven't read through it all yet.
is that orientation of the apogee the only way it will fit? is it possible for you to help me measure how far the inlet/outlet port sticks out from the mountings holes? i have asus z170i and would prefer to mount the apoggee in the horizontal position with inlet/outlet on the sides instead of top and bottom. also, how do you determine which port on the res is inlet/outlet? though the way you have it is the way i was planning on having it, want to make sure my reasoning was correct.Pretty much same setup I have however I'm using Noctua Industrial PPC's, EKWB 240 PE Rad, and Mayhem Pastel White coolant.
Hello guys!
I am looking for feedback on my NCase build, does everything fit, compatibility and stuff like that. This is my first build in almost 10 years so I am little rusty.
Case #1: Fractal Define Mini (until I get ncase v5 next year)
Case #2 : NCase v5 (will move everything from Fractal to NCase)
MBO: ASUS Z170I Pro Gaming (second option is ASRock Z170M-ITX/ac)
CPU: Core i5 6600K
SSD: Samsung 500GB 850 EVO Basic
GPU: GAINWARD GeForce GTX 980 (reference design)
Memory: Corsair 2x8GB DDR4 2666 C16 LP
Display: Dell u2515h
PSU: CHIEFTEC Smart Series SFX-500GD-C
CPU Fan: Not sure
Questions:
1. Any reason to chose one MBO over another?
2. Is that PSU going to have enough power for whole system? That is only sfx psu option in my country.
3. What cpu fan should I get? I have range of Noctua options available, but not sure which one will fit?
Thank you guys, I appreciate it!
Hi!
I’m building my first pc. And it is Ncase m1 v5. I’ve read up to some extent, and choose these parts:
- Case: Ncase m1 v5.0
- M/B: Gigabyte GA-H170N-WIFI (link)
- CPU: i7-6700K (link)
- CPU fan: Zalman CNPS9500 AT (I cannot find anyone used this one, so not sure if this will fit… (link)
- SSD: SSD Intel 535 M.2 180GB (link)
- GPU: EVGA GTX 980 Ti Hybrid (link)
- RAM: Kingston 8GB 2133MHz DDR4 CL15 DIMM 1.2V (link)
- PSU: Silverstone SFX 600W PSU (link)
I have doubt: will the fan fit? Its 85(L) x 112 (W) x 125 (H), I know that the maximum (allowed by case width) is 130 mm, so it should fit right?…
And if anyone notices any *dumb* stuff in my part selection, tell me please!
Also, where do you connect system panel connector in aforementioned motherboard? How do you set the color of power button?… (If these questions are to stupid, ignore please ).
Thanks for any answers whatsoever!
Hi!
Im building my first pc. And it is Ncase m1 v5. Ive read up to some extent, and choose these parts:
- Case: Ncase m1 v5.0
- M/B: Gigabyte GA-H170N-WIFI (link)
- CPU: i7-6700K (link)
- CPU fan: Zalman CNPS9500 AT (I cannot find anyone used this one, so not sure if this will fit ) (link)
- SSD: SSD Intel 535 M.2 180GB (link)
- GPU: EVGA GTX 980 Ti Hybrid (link)
- RAM: Kingston 8GB 2133MHz DDR4 CL15 DIMM 1.2V (link)
- PSU: Silverstone SFX 600W PSU (link)
I have doubt: will the fan fit? Its 85(L) x 112 (W) x 125 (H), I know that the maximum (allowed by case width) is 130 mm, so it should fit right?
And if anyone notices any *dumb* stuff in my part selection, tell me please!
Also, where do you connect system panel connector in aforementioned motherboard? How do you set the color of power button? (If these questions are to stupid, ignore please ).
Thanks for any answers whatsoever!
Hi!
Also, where do you connect system panel connector in aforementioned motherboard? How do you set the color of power button? (If these questions are to stupid, ignore please ).
Thanks for any answers whatsoever!
Hi everyone,
Also waiting for the V5 to ship (D-62 !), I was planning out my build.
As I'm moving out of a sg08 to the M1 I plan on using my current nh-l12 in the M1, and was wondering if it would fit, and if it would be sufficient for decent cooling. In particular, I was planning on using it as the sole active intake (with the GPU), as other have done with the bigger c14.
My aim is to build the quietest build as possible when iddle/under low load, while still being able to game and crunch data (where noise can ramp up as I game with headphones or run SAS when I'm out and about).
So, do you think just having the nh-l12 and the GPU (when it runs) as intakes, and the rest as passive exhaust would be possible, or will cause case temp to rise too much ?
My current (proposed) build is as follows:
- Case: Ncase M1 (of course !)
- CPU*: I7-6700k
- GPU*: GTX 970 Msi TF (which has 0 RPM when idle)
- PSU: Silverstone SX500-LG (maybe SX700 if it gets out before January)
- Mobo: Asus z170i Pro Gaming
- RAM: 2*8GB DDR4 Corsaire LPX
- Drive*: 1To+500gb 840 evo
*already owned
I do have a couple of NF-A15 Pwm (140mm) and NF-B9 (92mm) fans laying around, but I would like to minimize noise sources.
So what do you think, is the plan viable ? If not, what kind of airflow combination would you suggest to keep noise level at a minimum? Do you think using the PSU as an active exhaust is a good idea (or taking in hot case air will just ramp up the fan and the noise) ?
Should I shell out for the extra 80 that the c14s cost here in France?
Any advice would be welcome
WOOOOO just powered up my build to test core components and it's ALIVE!...............
Moar pics later this weekend
Someone has said it before but lets reiterate, all the connectors on the motherboard can be found in full description in the motherboard manual. This manual can be downloaded from the manufacturer website which will show the full motherboard layout, and pin out of each connector, so you will find all the "system panel" headers in the manual.Also, where do you connect system panel connector in aforementioned motherboard? How do you set the color of power button? (If these questions are to stupid, ignore please ).
Thanks for any answers whatsoever!
As for the colour of the LED, this can not be adjusted without replacing the power switch module (hardware)
However, you can swap the colour of the Power LED and the Hard Drive LED by swapping where you plug their cables into the motherboard.
No, it doesn't. LED colours are fixed. One lead just corresponds to one LED and another to the other.So the motherboard controls the LED colour? Cool TIL
in other words, if you plug the HDD LED into the PLED+/- pins, and the Power LED into the HD+/- pins, the power LED will blink when there's HDD activity, and the HDD LED will come on when the PC is powered up. In effect, the function of each LED is swapped, rather than the color--their positions are unchanged.
...how many ways can I say this? XD
I thought that's want you were saying. lolAh crap, what was I thinking? Sorry!!!
If I'm not mistaken (I don't usually follow high-end hardware, so I'm not sure about Skylake and h170 series) there is no need to buy an K-series CPU if you don't have a Z-class mobo to overclock it.