NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Does anyone know if the 8 mm overhang will obstruct the use of the forward 120 mm cooling mounting point?
It does. In fact, a 120mm fan on the forward mount overhangs the motherboard by about 15mm, and that's with the fan mounted as far forward as possible (there's 8mm of travel). So you have the choice of 1.) using only the cooler's 140mm fan, 2.) not using a 140mm fan at all, but two 120mm fans mounted to the bracket instead.

If you're wondering about using an AIO cooling the GPU along with the Dark Rock cooler, then yeah, that's pretty much out.
 
It does. In fact, a 120mm fan on the forward mount overhangs the motherboard by about 15mm, and that's with the fan mounted as far forward as possible (there's 8mm of travel). So you have the choice of 1.) using only the cooler's 140mm fan, 2.) not using a 140mm fan at all, but two 120mm fans mounted to the bracket instead.

It would be super useful to list that 15 mm fact in the Compatibility tab on the website. I've been wondering about that, but I haven't had the time to go back and read this entire thread.

If you're wondering about using an AIO cooling the GPU along with the Dark Rock cooler, then yeah, that's pretty much out.

Indeed I was :)

If flipped the other way, the ends of the upper heat pipes overlap the end of the board approximately 3 mm. How is the clearance in that direction?

XkCD2Zr.jpg


If mounted vertical, it either overhangs the PCIe slot, or hits the roof.
 
If flipped the other way, the ends of the upper heat pipes overlap the end of the board approximately 3 mm. How is the clearance in that direction?
There's only about 2mm between the motherboard and the back of the chassis, so it would be very close if it fits that way.
 
Heres my sketchup model


As far as I know, it's almost 100% correct, I did my best going off of the numbers frostytech had in their review, and the dimensions on BeQuiet!'s .PDF.

Edit:

Heatpipes are hard, so I skipped over them for the most part. :X


Feel free to edit, reupload, take credit, I don't care.
 
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There's only about 2mm between the motherboard and the back of the chassis, so it would be very close if it fits that way.

No doubt the heat pipes would be right against the case. It may just work though, also using the play in the motherboard mounting holes.

I'm probably going to order a black M1 as soon as preorders open :)
 
Yeah, sales did pick up a bit in the last couple months. I fully expect demand to rise and fall at different times of the year, but I think the increased coverage from things like the Linus and HardwareCanucks reviews helped out..

Don't forget the army of M1 users, that recommend the M1 as soon as someone is asking for a small case :D
 
Don't forget the army of M1 users, that recommend the M1 as soon as someone is asking for a small case :D
No doubt, word of mouth is easily the number one factor for us up to now.

Hey Necere,

Does that mean the top panel without OD opening is available soon?
We actually still have top panels and panel kits still in stock and available on the website.
 
We're considering changing the fan bracket to SECC (steel) for V4. It's not for strength reasons though - it's to allow us to include a magnetic filter with the case that attaches to the bracket. This is what it looks like on a Lian Li case.

How much engineering work does that entail?

What effect would the change have on the per-unit price of the case?

Does magnetic tape (a la Demciflex) not work?
 
How much engineering work does that entail?
Nothing significant. It's the same design, just made from 0.8mm SECC instead of 1.5mm aluminum.

What effect would the change have on the per-unit price of the case?
No change.

Does magnetic tape (a la Demciflex) not work?
If you look at the pic I linked, it's actually a piece of metal mesh for the filter, and attached to that are magnetic strips. So instead of the magnetic tape being on the bracket like the Demciflex filters, it's attached to the filter, and the fan bracket is now ferrous so the magnets will stick to it.

If you're asking why not leave the fan bracket aluminum and put the magnetic tape on the bracket, I don't have an answer for that except this is the way Lian Li does it. If I had to guess, I think the mesh may be too diffuse for the magnet to form a strong hold. Either that or the material is non-ferrous. We're getting a sample though, so I'll be able to check it out for myself.
 
Can you make it as such it is backward compatible with rest of the version?
It's backward-compatible by default. We could probably run some extras off and offer them as an accessory for current M1 owners if there's interest in it.
 
It's backward-compatible by default. We could probably run some extras off and offer them as an accessory for current M1 owners if there's interest in it.

That is of course a good idea. When do you think the steel version is available for selling? My suggestion is to sell it as an optional accessory and survey the popularity of it. I bet a lot of people still see M1 as a FULL ALUMINIUM case of choice. What do you all say. (Sorry for my bad english)
 
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That is of course a good idea. When do you think the steel version is available for selling? My suggestion is to sell it as an optional accessory and survey the popularity of it. I bet a lot of people still see M1 as a FULL ALUMINIUM case of choice. What do you all say. (Sorry for my bad english)
I'm not sure I see the value of offering two versions of the bracket going forward. There's not a lot of material in it compared to the rest of the case, so any weight difference will be negligible. It's basically all upside, as far as I can see. Can you give me a reason why you or anyone else might prefer the aluminum bracket?
 
I'm not sure I see the value of offering two versions of the bracket going forward. There's not a lot of material in it compared to the rest of the case, so any weight difference will be negligible. It's basically all upside, as far as I can see. Can you give me a reason why you or anyone else might prefer the aluminum bracket?

Nah, I am not really specific into it. It just cross my mind that someone once proudly presented M1 as the world first fully aluminium case (If i am not wrong).
 
Nah, I am not really specific into it. It just cross my mind that someone once proudly presented M1 as the world first fully aluminium case (If i am not wrong).
Lol... well, it's far from the world's first full aluminum case. Lian Li has been doing all-aluminum cases for years. I will admit the aluminum has a very nice feel to it, especially with the matte black paint - lightweight, almost like plastic, but cold and solid to the touch. It feels premium and pretty novel when you first handle it.
 
How about the airflow restrictive properties of that mesh. Your current included plastic wire mesh grills are good for airflow. That punched plastic sheet looks to be far more restrictive?

Nothing lets air through as well as a wire mesh (plastic or metal)
 
If you're asking why not leave the fan bracket aluminum and put the magnetic tape on the bracket, I don't have an answer for that except this is the way Lian Li does it. If I had to guess, I think the mesh may be too diffuse for the magnet to form a strong hold. Either that or the material is non-ferrous. We're getting a sample though, so I'll be able to check it out for myself.

Yes, that is what I meant. I suppose you could always try applying magnetic tape to both the fan bracket and the mesh.
 
FYI Titan X Hybrid now available on EVGA's webstore! Available as a full card ($1099) and as an add-on kit ($109). Yay - my build components will be complete for whenever I receive my M1!

I assume this new Silverstone 700 watt SFX-L PSU will have issues fitting in the M1 with a large card like the Titan X? Better to stick with the 600 watt SFX currently available?

Tom
 
FYI Titan X Hybrid now available on EVGA's webstore! Available as a full card ($1099) and as an add-on kit ($109). Yay - my build components will be complete for whenever I receive my M1!

I assume this new Silverstone 700 watt SFX-L PSU will have issues fitting in the M1 with a large card like the Titan X? Better to stick with the 600 watt SFX currently available?

Tom

IIRC any longer graphics card creates a tight fit with any SFX-L PSUs. I believe you have space if you use a pcie extender cable to move the graphics card down a slot. Others can correct me if I am wrong.

My Node 304 build might turn into a Ncase M1 v.4 build if whatever the Dual Fiji card can be used with a 700 watt psu.
 
IIRC any longer graphics card creates a tight fit with any SFX-L PSUs. I believe you have space if you use a pcie extender cable to move the graphics card down a slot. Others can correct me if I am wrong.

My Node 304 build might turn into a Ncase M1 v.4 build if whatever the Dual Fiji card can be used with a 700 watt psu.

A long graphics card and a SFX-L PSU fit fine (Even with a backplate).

Source: My Ncase.
 
Looks like round 3 is sold out!

Round 4, here we go ;) I understand that you are looking to get confirmation of how the new 700 watt psu will fit, and will consider a steel based side fan mounting plate as part of the factors to be considered for the next run?
 
hi necere , i just received my M1 Ncase today . after I check out , I found a little flaw on the top panel . you can see there is a part that is not balanced between left and right side panels . is there any suggestion to fix it ? Here I attach a photo

IMG-20150530-02044.jpg
 
Hi guys! I have a few questions.

What are some coolers would you guys recommend for the CPU for the M1 ( also,do you think air or liquid would be better?)?

What type of GPU coolers would you recommend? (after market vs stock nvidia's)

When you do think the case will come back instock again?

Thanks!
 
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How about the airflow restrictive properties of that mesh. Your current included plastic wire mesh grills are good for airflow. That punched plastic sheet looks to be far more restrictive?

Nothing lets air through as well as a wire mesh (plastic or metal)
We'll still include two of the original-style filters so people can decide for themselves. It may be more restrictive, but I think people are willing to sacrifice a bit of cooling performance for the convenience of easily removable filters. If people are really after the best performance, they'll want to skip filters altogether, anyway.

Looks like round 3 is sold out!

Round 4, here we go ;) I understand that you are looking to get confirmation of how the new 700 watt psu will fit, and will consider a steel based side fan mounting plate as part of the factors to be considered for the next run?
That's correct.

hi necere , i just received my M1 Ncase today . after I check out , I found a little flaw on the top panel . you can see there is a part that is not balanced between left and right side panels . is there any suggestion to fix it ? Here I attach a photo
Sorry about that, but honestly that's a normal amount of variation. The way these cases are made doesn't produce identical results every time - there will always be some minor differences in how the panels fit etc. This is true for all cases, though on larger cases you won't notice so much.

My best guess is that there might be a rivet on the left side of the chassis that isn't completely flush, and is pushing the front panel out slightly on that side. The simplest fix is to add a small spacer (e.g. layered electrical tape) on the top right corner of the chassis to even it out.

Hi guys! I have a few questions.

What are some coolers would you guys recommend for the CPU for the M1 ( also,do you think air or liquid would be better?)?

What type of GPU coolers would you recommend? (after market vs stock nvidia's)
CPU cooler depends somewhat on your other parts. If the cooler is bigger than the socket, you'll want to make sure to pick a motherboard where the socket is located close to the middle of the board. Certain coolers won't fit with the 3.5" HDD cage (e.g., the Noctua NH-C14). The Scythe Kabuto II is a pretty good choice for a top-down cooler that maximises use of space, while still allowing for the 3.5" HDD cage. The NH-U9S or pretty much any Asetek-style slim-rad AIO (Corsair etc.) are good choices if you don't want to worry about motherboard socket location or HDD cage compatibility.

As far as the GPU style, the nvidia reference blower is still what I recommend. It keeps most of the GPU heat out of the case, and it's probably the quietest blower GPU there's ever been. Alternatively, you could use a GPU with an integrated AIO cooler, like the EVGA GTX 980 Hybrid. Just be aware that will take up the mount on the side bracket for the HDD cage, and you'll probably want to use it with an AIO on the CPU as well. Check a few pages back for an example build.

A word on system cooling: you'll want to have one or more 120mm fans mounted either on the side or bottom of the case to help move air through the system. Most configurations will have a fan or two on the side bracket, but in some cases (e.g., a tower cooler like the Noctua NH-U9S and the 3.5" HDD cage installed) there won't be room for side fans, so you'll want to have at least one fan mounted on the bottom under the video card. This is just to establish air flow through the case, and also lets you use dust filters on the intakes.

When you do think the case will come back instock again?
See my earlier post.

Does the new shipment coming soon mean we'll be able to order the V3 bracket?
Yes. And just in case anyone missed it:

Poll: M1 First Edition and V2 owners, are you interested in purchasing the V3 SFX bracket?
 
Sorry about that, but honestly that's a normal amount of variation. The way these cases are made doesn't produce identical results every time - there will always be some minor differences in how the panels fit etc. This is true for all cases, though on larger cases you won't notice so much.

My best guess is that there might be a rivet on the left side of the chassis that isn't completely flush, and is pushing the front panel out slightly on that side. The simplest fix is to add a small spacer (e.g. layered electrical tape) on the top right corner of the chassis to even it out.

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necere, thanks for your explanation . I 'll try to fix it with your suggestions
 
I only have the V1 case. Obviously I have not been as up to date with the rear panel… !! Theres a plug hole at the top now! and a cleaner looking grille (but with more metal than holes this time round.)

Or was that a prototype?


EDIT - excuse my excitement, that photo was from the prototype on the first post. :)
 
Um... What build/motherboard is this that is allowing 2 cards?
That board specifically is a low-end ECS motherboard I used during prototype testing. The first slot is x1 PCIe, second is the x16 PCIe, allowing for a soundcard and dual-slot GPU. There's a thread for these types of "in-between" mATX/mDTX motherboards here.
 
..you can see there is a part that is not balanced between left and right side panels . is there any suggestion to fix it ? Here I attach a photo

http://i707.photobucket.com/albums/ww71/deelan_31/IMG-20150530-02044.jpg

That doesn't seem too bad at all.

In addition to what Necere suggested about adding electrical tape as padding (think stick-on felt pads were also suggested before), I just wanted to point out that panel gappage on mine seems to change a little almost every time I remove and replace the panels (sometimes it turns out perfect, other times not so much). I've noticed that the biggest contributing factor leading to uneven gaps seems to be due to which order I put them back on (still can't remember the recommended order, or even what worked best for me last time).

Also, sometimes I'm able to slightly slide and shift a panel into better alignment once it's already popped into place (not always, though).


Still really wish the M1 had sliding hooks, or something a little more secure and less figidity than the pin and plastic clips. They do the job alright, but it just doesn't seem like the most elegant solution imo (though, I do really like the pop-on front, which is solid.. just not the other 3 panels).
 
Still really wish the M1 had sliding hooks, or something a little more secure and less figidity than the pin and plastic clips. They do the job alright, but it just doesn't seem like the most elegant solution imo (though, I do really like the pop-on front, which is solid.. just not the other 3 panels).
Yeah, the stud+clip method isn't totally ideal. The way sliding hooks are typically done involves bending the edge over though, which would create a visual inconsistency with the front panel. I'm picky about things like that :p Alternatively, sliding studs could be used, but there's still the problem of how to secure the panels. There isn't enough room on the back of the case to have flanged panels that screw in to the back, like most cases do it. On a bigger case you could probably adjust things to make it work, but on a case this small where everything affects everything else and there's not much room to make adjustments, it really needs to be designed from the start with a specific method in mind.
 
Thank you for the reply! Cant believe the case is coming back in stock! :D

This rig will be my "dream rig" And will be the 1st time I will try to overclock. Not sure if it's a good idea for that a not but what coolers do you know of where people have gotten pretty good overclock on their CPU with? As I do not have the case yet, do you think it is possible to place a HD and a fan below the GPU?
Like the link here :http://imgur.com/fmqjmbq Red for HD and green for a fan. Will placing a fan so near the intake for the GPU give the GPU more air or will it give it less air as it is too near the blower style?



Here is the list of parts I am hoping to get into the case.

GPU - 980TI (Most probably a Blower style)
CPU + MOBO - 4790K + ROG IMPACT
RAM - HYPER X FURY 8GBX2
PSU - SILVERSTONE 600W
CASE - NCASE M1
COOLER - ~To be chosen~
SSD: Samsung Evo 120gb
HDD: 1/2tb WD black

Thank you!
 
Yeah, the stud+clip method isn't totally ideal. The way sliding hooks are typically done involves bending the edge over though, which would create a visual inconsistency with the front panel. I'm picky about things like that :p

Yeah, I prefer folded edges too :D

I could really picture the M1 using a combo of folded and straight edges in a blended manner. Have the top panel's side edges folded and overhanging the side panels, and the front panel would need to be both taller (to flush up with top's straight front edge) and wider (to meet up and cover the side panels). Securing at the back, or elsewhere, would be challenging.

Don't think it's impossible, just a complete pain in the ass I'm sure.. so I'll shut up about it :)
 
I've had no problem with the stud-type closure, unless I was forcing stuff in that was clearly not wanting to go in. And then I'd probably bend the panel or the hooks if it was the sliding-hook-type. But with that last one you'd also need another type of fastening to secure it, like studs or screws.

I've personally also never seen a sliding-hook case that doesn't severely scratch up after a dozen open-close operations, which I personally would hate to see happen with a case like this.
 
I like the studs on a case of this size. Makes for the most elegant exterior, and extremely easy access to the interior of the case. As it is now is my favourite for this case.
 
So this is a
Intel 5820k
Asrock X99E-ITX/AC
And a GTX980 Strix
Samsung SM951 SSD
Silverstone SX600-G

To say it's tight is an understatement...

MfwEwqy.jpg


BDXAR6w.jpg


Pictures incoming (bad photos from phone)
 
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