NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Just for the record, if you're using a 160mm long ATX PSU, the Asus 960 STRIX doesn't fit, the heatsink fins are just a hair too long. :(
 
In my previous case, I had an H80i and I was pretty sure that the pump was able to be throttled down (I used a PWM fan header to do so, Corsair software should also do something) - 4700rpm as the "lowest" speed would definitely make it the loudest component for sure. :eek:

The Apogee Drive ii is basically the MCP35X upside down on top of a custom block; so it's really about as loud as the MCP35X is. However, and I might be weird, I found that I have enough turbulence at about 1700rpm (inaudible) and at full tilt I have it going at about 2500rpm (very slight audible whine). Nowhere near the max of 4500rpm.

It's just a H100 rather than the i version. If try to use voltage control anything below full speed is even louder with a buzzing/screeching sound and if I use a low noise adapter from a NF-F12 the pump completely stops.
 
You don't need watercooling to solve the noise problem, a good aftermarket cooler will do the same for a fraction of the cost. I started with an H220 for an Intel Core i5-4670K and an EK R9 290X fullcover block. I never got it to work silently in the end, especially when playing games for longer periods of time.

But it did cost $300, while I now only paid around $150 for proper air cooling that can't leak. It is completely silent idle and very quiet with moderate tasks (browsing, watching Netflix) and about as loud as my watercooling setup used to be. I never got my watercooling completely silent. It was somewhat quiet, but nowhere near silent thanks to the pump.

Also something many people "forget" is that limiting your game to your screen's refresh rate (FPS limiter or V-Sync) will also sometimes fix this. Some games just render at a much higher framerate than your screen can show, this is in the end wasted and produces unneeded heat. This is especially true in some games' menus. With Battlefield 4 and a reference R9 290X cooler, people outside of the room could hear when I was in the menu or at the loading screen because it was rendering at hundreds of fps and the GPU's load and power consumption would skyrocket.

Hey Phuncz, it's been a while. I think it was your build that encouraged me to put my 4770k/780 Ti under water with the H220. But Peter rejected my RMA because of the 450w PSU. Since then the H60 was a temporarily cooler and the 780 Ti is back on a reference cooler. I don't mind the H60, it's just that the reference cooling is always loud under heavy load. My GF is playing on a X-Star 1440p at only 60hz. I find myself setting the fan curve near 75-80% around 90 degrees already to reach that FPS.

I have been looking and waiting for the Kelvin S24. Trying to find a loop to import it to the states. But I'm getting impatient and am considering the Apogee Drive II. The NCase Reservoir is still being debated.

For kicks, I did find a German seller on Amazon.com that was importing a S24 for nearly $350.00+.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00T2PSCYU/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Too silly for my liking. I also follow /r/buildapcsales a lot and had a discussion with NCIXAnthony regarding Canadian stocks and US sales of the H220 and Kelvin S24. He did mention that both US and Canadian sites share the same inventory, but I still haven't seen it been in their inventory yet.

In my previous case, I had an H80i and I was pretty sure that the pump was able to be throttled down (I used a PWM fan header to do so, Corsair software should also do something) - 4700rpm as the "lowest" speed would definitely make it the loudest component for sure. :eek:

The Apogee Drive ii is basically the MCP35X upside down on top of a custom block; so it's really about as loud as the MCP35X is. However, and I might be weird, I found that I have enough turbulence at about 1700rpm (inaudible) and at full tilt I have it going at about 2500rpm (very slight audible whine). Nowhere near the max of 4500rpm.

Hey ghostwich, did you find the 1700rpm inaudible for the Apogee Drive II or the H80i? I would imagine each is different noise level for the same pump rate.



You're just suppose to install the Apogee Drive II with the connector to the CPU Fanheader right? And the motherboard can control the speed from there? I was thinking of setting up slow quiet air pressure fans with the pump.
 
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Hey Phuncz, it's been a while. I think it was your build that encouraged me to put my 4770k/780 Ti under water with the H220. But Peter rejected my RMA because of the 450w PSU.
Hi ! I have used your example of Swiftech "Lack of Tech Support" as a prime example why we should look elsewhere for watercooling setup. I've seen too many stupid reasons they don't grant warranty, it's silly.

I've had issues too with the H220, it wasn't working out of the box. But back then I thought: oh well, could happen to anyone. And all was well until my GPU block started leaking and I had to completely disassemble my case and replace the entire loop (with air cooling) so I could send it for repair (it took over a month).

While watercooling is a viable solution for the Ncase and in some situations even ideal, I'm convinced that air cooling is not far behind. In my example, I expect my pump is to blame, I am able to achieve a much quieter system. Only some issues during load I need to figure out but that will be tested soon.
 
Yeah, I'm using a H220 right now. I had a leak on the radiator where the elbow barb is. Luckily, the liquid didn't get on any hardware. Since there aren't any replacement radiators, I had two choices: repair the radiator or buy a new solution. I winded up repairing mine by stuffing the barb in, clamping it to make sure it won't come out easy, and using JB Weld. I tested my loop running for 3 days... (Overkill, I know). But everything works for weeks, and now one of my RAM slots failed. Coincidence?!? I wonder if I hit the ram when I was removing and installing the cpu cooler.

Also, can anyone tell me how quick disconnects work and if there is something you could recommend me to use. With such a limited space, I think having Quick no-leak Disconnects for watercooling might be worth it? Or is it not worth it?
 
It's just a H100 rather than the i version. If try to use voltage control anything below full speed is even louder with a buzzing/screeching sound and if I use a low noise adapter from a NF-F12 the pump completely stops.

The low noise adapters from Noctua are inline resistors that will drop the voltage across the board - which is why it might be too low to even start the pump going. I truly thought that voltage control on the Corsair pumps would work but maybe the H100 is different than the H100i/H110/H80i? Maybe you should look into it (as any buzzing/screeching generally should invoke concern).

Hey ghostwich, did you find the 1700rpm inaudible for the Apogee Drive II or the H80i? I would imagine each is different noise level for the same pump rate.

You're just suppose to install the Apogee Drive II with the connector to the CPU Fanheader right? And the motherboard can control the speed from there? I was thinking of setting up slow quiet air pressure fans with the pump.

Hello - I was talking about the Apogee Drive II - I truly cannot remember what RPM I used to run the H80i pump at.

Yes it has a 4-pin fan connector for reporting the RPM as well as controlling it (power to the pump is provided via 4-pin molex and without any PWM control signal it will run at 100% - 4500rpm). The motherboard's headers (maybe even 3-pin/voltage-control?) should be able to control the pump (but I think even Swiftech recommends to use the CPU fan header).
 
The low noise adapters from Noctua are inline resistors that will drop the voltage across the board - which is why it might be too low to even start the pump going. I truly thought that voltage control on the Corsair pumps would work but maybe the H100 is different than the H100i/H110/H80i? Maybe you should look into it (as any buzzing/screeching generally should invoke concern).
*snip*

Yeah I know how the LNA's work which is why I tried it. The H100 is a OEM version of a now discontinued product that costs less than £50 so pump quality isn't very good. I've been looking into getting a Coolermaster Nepton but have yet to get round to it due to constant replacement of 980's as I have yet to find one that doesn't buzz under load.
 
Hai guys,

I am new here. NCASE M1 is my first pc build. Thanks to the Necere and Wahaha for their hard work. I wonder if Asus Matrix GTX 980 can fit in this case?
 
Hey all, I did a search through all the forums but couldn't find anything.
Has anyone else had a problem with optical drive in Windows?

I inherited a Mac slot drive DVDRW model: LG HT-DL-ST GS31N.
Fits fine in my M1 and it is RECOGNIZED in my bios but for some reason I can't see the drive in Windows 7 x64.

Anyone have the same issue or know how to solve it? Do I need a driver? Couldn't find it on the net.
I read somewhere that others are having issues not being detected under AHCI.

I have:
Mobo: ASUS z97i PLUS
CPU: 4770-k CPU
RAM: Patriot Viper 3 16GB

Can anyone provide any insight on my slimline optical drive issue?
Tinkering with it some more, I found out that
- the BIOS recognizes the optical
- Device Manager lists the optical
- I can send an eject command to it and the motor tries to eject anything in the drive

The problem seems to be that whatever sensor that triggers the drive to "pull" the disc in isn't triggered and so the drive doesn't ever load the disc. The drive worked perfectly in the macbook pro it came from.

Does anyone know if something to initialize the drive needs to be done?
 
Can anyone provide any insight on my slimline optical drive issue?
Tinkering with it some more, I found out that
- the BIOS recognizes the optical
- Device Manager lists the optical
- I can send an eject command to it and the motor tries to eject anything in the drive

The problem seems to be that whatever sensor that triggers the drive to "pull" the disc in isn't triggered and so the drive doesn't ever load the disc.

If possible, try changing to a different SATA power cable (or adapter) for the ODD. Necere and a few others had similar issues, where the ODD eject mechanism appeared to work, but it would never pull the disc into the drive..

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040135044&postcount=4787

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040676605&postcount=10892

Good luck!
 
Is there any spreadsheet or list for stuff that can fit into M1? Appreciate it if someone can share the link again. I am getting a EVGA GTX980 SC (blower type), , will that fit into M1? (My first PC build, not even sure if all reference card have the same size. :p)
 
Is there any spreadsheet or list for stuff that can fit into M1? Appreciate it if someone can share the link again. I am getting a EVGA GTX980 SC (blower type), , will that fit into M1? (My first PC build, not even sure if all reference card have the same size. :p)

Click on the "cooling compatibility" and "does it fit?" tabs at the bottom..

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AuQJbc_Aru20dDdLbmJWMjZYSXJvNWNOVzJkdkJPTWc&usp=sharing#gid=29

The EVGA 980SC blower should fit just fine.
 
UPDATE 2015-04-30: Clarification on why M1 availability is unpredictable.

Lately, when I tell people that we are unsure about item availability (particularly for sold out items), it has been met with some skepticism. I like to clarify so that people don't think we are pushing them towards existing inventory.

From the time of crowdfunding to even now, we have had a reserve on our PayPal account for 90+ days (for some transactions, 180 days). As a result, we have had to borrow money from family and friend for every order of the M1. When it comes to new orders, until we receive payment from PayPal to pay back friends and family, we really don't know when when we can make the next order.

So, we really don't know for sure when the next order will be.
 
I'd guess we can call PayPal a blessing and a curse. I didn't realise this, I hope this isn't too much of a problem, but I can imagine having to wait 3 to 6 months for the funds to come in is stressful.
 
I saw your setup in another post and it's almost exactly the same as mine: Accelero Xtreme IV and Kabuto II.
Just reverse the direction of the GPU fans such that it exhausts downwards and have two fan on the side that blow in. Even in-out air pressure is obtained and the top of the case where the motherboard is remains cool as the Arctic even at full load. This is the optimal full air-cooler set up imo. Of course you probably won't believe that bottom exhaust can cool the GPU and VRM sufficiently, but hypothesises can only be proved or disproved with experiments.
So yesterday I did this exact thing, two Noctua NF-F12 fans as intake (one over the Kabuto II) and two Noctua NF-F12 fans below the Accelero IV as exhaust. I also added VRM heatsinks to my R9 290X but I can now play GTA V full-bore without the entire setup ever hitting 70°C. Fans on the bottom reach 1100rpm but I'm still very OK with the noise.

So yeah, WOW. I'm impressed with the performance I'm getting with this setup. Thanks for the advice, cowsgomoo !
The Sharkoon SFX Gold (SFX-L 500W) is also still cold after playing GTA V for an hour. Also impressive.

Air cooling FTW !

Pics of the VRM cooler in combination with an Arctic Accelero Xtreme IV:

EPkodZQ.png


4u8tOAm.png


8Z8nyS3.png
 
Thanks AFD!

I'm using the Silverstone PP06B cable with a slimline plug. Just took a look on Newegg and 3 people confirm that this cable does not have enough power to power a slimline optical. Sucks, cause I bought this cable just for the optical.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162024




If possible, try changing to a different SATA power cable (or adapter) for the ODD. Necere and a few others had similar issues, where the ODD eject mechanism appeared to work, but it would never pull the disc into the drive..

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040135044&postcount=4787

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040676605&postcount=10892

Good luck!
 
Hello,

wonder if anyone try watercooling with EK-SBAY DDC 3.2 PWM or EK-SBAY Dual DDC 3.2 PWM Serial? will it fit beneath the GPU with water block from EKWB as well? How much clearance is there between the case bottom and the GPU itself?
 
So yesterday I did this exact thing, two Noctua NF-F12 fans as intake (one over the Kabuto II) and two Noctua NF-F12 fans below the Accelero IV as exhaust. I also added VRM heatsinks to my R9 290X but I can now play GTA V full-bore without the entire setup ever hitting 70°C. Fans on the bottom reach 1100rpm but I'm still very OK with the noise.

So yeah, WOW. I'm impressed with the performance I'm getting with this setup. Thanks for the advice, cowsgomoo !
The Sharkoon SFX Gold (SFX-L 500W) is also still cold after playing GTA V for an hour. Also impressive.

Air cooling FTW !

Pics of the VRM cooler in combination with an Arctic Accelero Xtreme IV:

EPkodZQ.png


4u8tOAm.png


8Z8nyS3.png

When you had them as intakes, did you ever try elevating the case by just the feet, leaving more room for air to be brought into the system? I'm curious as to how this may affect temps.

Could try the same thing with them as exhaust to see if all warm air is truly being exhausted.

While it defeats the small profile of the case, I had actually at one point considered swapping the feet out for this purpose.
 
When you had them as intakes, did you ever try elevating the case by just the feet, leaving more room for air to be brought into the system? I'm curious as to how this may affect temps.

I shouldn't need to, I'm using Noctua's NF-F12 fans which have a high static pressure and should be able to suck in enough air as-is. But I did have Demciflex filters on them, which I don't at the moment. 3 of the 4 120mm filters I have are warped badly so they touch the fans.
 
Thanks AFD!

I'm using the Silverstone PP06B cable with a slimline plug. Just took a look on Newegg and 3 people confirm that this cable does not have enough power to power a slimline optical. Sucks, cause I bought this cable just for the optical.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162024

Hopefully that's what it is. I've been using the slimline SATA power connector from their PP05-E cable set, and haven't had any similar issues with the ODD.
 
Hopefully that's what it is. I've been using the slimline SATA power connector from their PP05-E cable set, and haven't had any similar issues with the ODD.

I'm guessing the PP05-E cable is providing enough power. The PP06B I guess is not. I will try as soon as my slimline adapter comes in and I use the cables that came with the SX600.

Thanks again.
 
Is there any reason why the vents on the side don't extend all the way to the bottom? Wouldn't it allow the air around the GPU to exit the case more easily? And wouldn't isolating the GPU area and adding a fan at the front (with proper vents) provide better overall cooling for the system in an air-cooled setup by preventing air from being recycled?
 
The panels would be very prone to warping when leaving too little of a solid surface.
 
I shouldn't need to, I'm using Noctua's NF-F12 fans which have a high static pressure and should be able to suck in enough air as-is. But I did have Demciflex filters on them, which I don't at the moment. 3 of the 4 120mm filters I have are warped badly so they touch the fans.

The absence of the Demciflex filters is a huge variable, I'd think, but still, exhaust seems more logical overall.

I'd try those scenarios I mentioned myself, but my mitx is dismantled and largely sold, not that it would matter as I have a reference 980 at the moment anyway.
 
The absence of the Demciflex filters is a huge variable, I'd think, but still, exhaust seems more logical overall.
Yes it seems that installing the GPU's fans as exhaust is the biggest factor, since the warm air doesn't heat up everything on it's way to the top.

And the PSU can more than hold it's own thanks to its more capable cooling and maybe higher efficiency.
 
can anyone if he is using XSPC Xtreme Radiator RX240? What is the thickness of this radiator and fan in this pic?

Its a RX240 V3 with PWM GT2150s. The distance between the fan screw and the PSU is about the thickness of a business card, maybe slightly less.

In my setup, due to GPU sag, the GPU will actually rest on top of the DDC heatsink. I used a stack of business cards on the back of the reservoir to prop it up so they don't touch.
 
Hey, thanks, for the reply. Is the Inlet of the PSU facing the radiator? How is noise and temp level under load?

Edit: Is the heatsink necessary for DDC? they sell it without heat sink in Amazon. Where you get one?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Hey, thanks, for the reply. Is the Inlet of the PSU facing the radiator? How is noise and temp level under load?

Edit: Is the heatsink necessary for DDC? they sell it without heat sink in Amazon. Where you get one?

Thanks in advance.


Yes, the inlet is facing the radiator. Since there is so little space between them, this essentially gives it a little bit extra room to breath. I am running a 3770K at 4.7GHz and a 980 at stock clocks, GPU maxes around 48-51C depending on ambient, and CPU maxes at 70C.

I honestly have no clue if the heatsink is necessary. Since the airflow is limited and its in a very confined space, I thought it wouldn't hurt. It is the EK DDC heatsink.

As far as noise goes, its dead silent except when gaming. The only thing that really makes noise is the PSU fan. I wish I could find a way to quite it down. I think i could spin it around so it pulls in fresh air, but I am not sure if that would impact the rad fan tho. However, coming from my previous rig with air cooled, reference 6970's in crossfire, I have a pretty high tolerance for noise.
 
Yes, the inlet is facing the radiator. Since there is so little space between them, this essentially gives it a little bit extra room to breath. I am running a 3770K at 4.7GHz and a 980 at stock clocks, GPU maxes around 48-51C depending on ambient, and CPU maxes at 70C.

I honestly have no clue if the heatsink is necessary. Since the airflow is limited and its in a very confined space, I thought it wouldn't hurt. It is the EK DDC heatsink.

As far as noise goes, its dead silent except when gaming. The only thing that really makes noise is the PSU fan. I wish I could find a way to quite it down. I think i could spin it around so it pulls in fresh air, but I am not sure if that would impact the rad fan tho. However, coming from my previous rig with air cooled, reference 6970's in crossfire, I have a pretty high tolerance for noise.

thank you. how you loop your watercooled system? is it pump > cpu > gpu > rad > pump? i just realise they have a rad with duo pump too, how is the head pressure in the loop? Is duo pump necessary?
 
thank you. how you loop your watercooled system? is it pump > cpu > gpu > rad > pump? i just realise they have a rad with duo pump too, how is the head pressure in the loop? Is duo pump necessary?

It goes pump > GPU > CPU > rad > pump.

I am a watercooling noob, this was my first custom loop, but I'd say that a duo pump is unnecessary. As far as head pressure goes, I have no clue. All I know is that it works well :D
 
It goes pump > GPU > CPU > rad > pump.

I am a watercooling noob, this was my first custom loop, but I'd say that a duo pump is unnecessary. As far as head pressure goes, I have no clue. All I know is that it works well :D

Thanks man. This is my first build and i guess we have the same spec for the watercooled system. It is so great to have a success example to follow with. If you dont mind, you might as well share some photo with us how it looks like under your case. Guess I am finally drop my order in Amazon without worry that they won't fit in the case:D:D:D
 
Sorry to necro an old post but this has troubled me for a while.
Regarding using a fan between the fan bracket and the hdd rack, I found this post:

Use the screws that came screwed into the rack to attach it to the fan, then use some M5 screws to attach the fan to the fan bracket.

Could someone explain this more detailed to me please? I have been starring at the screws for like an hour and couldn't figure it out lol.
Thanks in advance!
 
Sorry to necro an old post but this has troubled me for a while.
Regarding using a fan between the fan bracket and the hdd rack, I found this post:



Could someone explain this more detailed to me please? I have been starring at the screws for like an hour and couldn't figure it out lol.
Thanks in advance!

You can see my picture a few pages back:
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1041570022&postcount=16122

I'm using my own screws but the screws that came with the bracket should work too.
 
You can see my picture a few pages back:
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1041570022&postcount=16122

I'm using my own screws but the screws that came with the bracket should work too.

Thanks! I wanted to try this but my screwdriver could not pass through the screw mount at the other side. Maybe I need a thinner screwdriver? Another problem is that I'm having a 15mm thick fan and it seems the screw is too long to get in the position. I guess I should get a thicker fan then.
 
Thanks! I wanted to try this but my screwdriver could not pass through the screw mount at the other side. Maybe I need a thinner screwdriver? Another problem is that I'm having a 15mm thick fan and it seems the screw is too long to get in the position. I guess I should get a thicker fan then.

Now that you mention it, I vaguely recall securing it with a smaller screwdriver that doesn't match the size of the screws, because I couldn't get it through. Just don't turn too hard and cause the screws to strip.
 
I finished water cooling my build about a week ago and figure I should share the results with you guys. Originally posted on the v2 build thread:






 
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