D
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I received a black case.
You guys should trade! You can be ncase buddies!
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NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)
- Thread starter wahaha360
- Start date
You guys should trade! You can be ncase buddies!
That's TWP's suggestion for how we deal with their screw up. So far from this run we have 12 people that got the wrong color, which will cost a lot in shipping to exchange. Needless to say, w360 is not happy about it.
theGryphon
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If TWP compensate for all shipping charges for all parties, then it's fair, and only then...
Jonnysupafly
n00b
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Hi all, hope you don't mind me posting a coupe of questions in my first post, after going round in circles between this an a parvum itx case, I'm just about to order a v3 M1. I will have 120mm AIO cpu cooler and the hdd bracket installed - has anyone manage to mount a fan between the side of the case and the hdd to keep it cool? Or even a hdd mounted fan?
And I saw a YouTube vid where someone had put an anti vandal switch on the M1, is there a step by step guide to doing this?
Cheers
And I saw a YouTube vid where someone had put an anti vandal switch on the M1, is there a step by step guide to doing this?
Cheers
No, their suggestion was to have people that got the wrong color ship their case directly to eachother. It's the least expensive way, but not ideal for the customer.
If you're just using one 3.5" drive in the bracket you can mount a 120mm fan between it and the fan bracket. Scroll down to the last couple pics in config 1a of my first thermal/noise test for an example.
I haven't seen a guide for the vandal switch mod, but I believe that was done by a user here and there may be some discussion on it if you search the thread.
Aibohphobia
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Jonnysupafly
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Awesome, thank you for the quick replies
iFreilicht
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Yes, that was my first thought, too. Try wrapping it in aluminium foil. It sounds like a redneck solution, but aluminium is a pretty good EMI shield after all, and it certainly worked for others.
I see that guy has two SSDs practically touching each other, is that the standard way this 2.5" mount works in the M1? Is that even a good idea from a temperature point of view?
Also, that HDD indicator LED is fuggin rad!
D
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BTW, Its worth noting that NCASEs is now the owner of the google spreadsheet. I'm saying this because if anybody needs to post anything but somehow doesn't allow you, speak to the NCASE team.
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Have you weighed the costs of just shipping the recipients of wrong color cases a panel kit in the color they intended? It might be cheaper in the end, I don't really know, was just a thought.
Stev3FrencH
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I have a question regarding US delivery. My package hasn't updated since last Wednesday when it said it was Inbound out of Customs. Does anyone know if this means it's still sitting somewhere in California to be sorted and shipped by USPS or does this mean its been released already and I am just waiting for USPS to do something?
I'm in the same situation. Tracking can only give you hints to where it has been. Not where it is currently. I say wait until tomorrow, and if there is no update, call USPS. Freightliners may deliver packages to your post office during the weekend and by Monday, the packages will be scanned. However, tomorrow is a federal holiday and you will not receive an update until Tuesday.
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No Hands 55
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Yes, you can just switch them. I'm not sure why your board has an extra pin for the power LED - I know the ASUS P8Z77-I Deluxe for example only has two:
Is the third pin on your board between the other two?
I am attempting the power switch mod to the anti vandal led switch, what voltage would I need? 3v, 6v, 12v? I am getting a sample from this page
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100p...tch-Ring-LED-DHL-Free-Shipping/862820050.html
will be under $8 for one or two switches, just need to figure out which one i need
IIRC the header is +5v, but this doesn't really matter. The mobo will current-limit the output, so you can pretty much just stick any LED on there and it will work.
No Hands 55
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alright thanks. havent had to deal with anything like this for a long time. so wouldnt i be better off getting the 6v rather than the 12v? and are you saying if i get the 3v it will limit the power to 3v for the led?
vipz
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If you get the 12V version you can hook it up directly to any 12V output of the PSU. I think for the mobo it should be the 3V version.
If you're not deadset on getting a white LED switch, you can get blue from here or red here. I'm currently running a blue one, and changing between switches is pretty easy.
In the bracket
Front panel cables can be bought from here so you don't wreck the original.
The HDD activity LED is a bit trickier to do. From the looks of the original mod, he must have drilled a hole in the bottom of the case, just behind the front panel bracket to fit the LED. You only need a capacitor and LED which you can get from here and here.
Taken with my Nokia Potato 800
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Wouldn't you want to go for the higher rated voltage LED? Would the MB feed the full 5V across the 3V LED? I'd rather have a slightly dimmer LED than a potentially burnt one. Of course, if there's a resistor inline (or some other current limiter--parallel diode?) then I guess it doesn't matter.
vipz
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There has to be a resistor inline already since mobo headers accept standard LEDs.
vipz
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970 Strix is too tall, as in you won't be able to close the side panel with the card installed.
No Hands 55
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If you're not deadset on getting a white LED switch, you can get blue from here or red here. I'm currently running a blue one, and changing between switches is pretty easy.
Front panel cables can be bought from here so you don't wreck the original.
The HDD activity LED is a bit trickier to do. From the looks of the original mod, he must have drilled a hole in the bottom of the case, just behind the front panel bracket to fit the LED. You only need a capacitor and LED which you can get from here and here.
Taken with my Nokia Potato 800
nice ill definitely be buying those cables then i guess and just routing the reset switch to pwr switch. I do want a white one and am about to order one on aliexpress. is yours 3v as well? i will be doing the hdd led mod later on, really just want to get the switch in there.
also how do you determine which pin on the vandal switch does what? and did you chop off those 2 leds and switch and solder them to the vandal switch?
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vipz
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Is it possible to take apart the switch and swap the LED inside without breaking it?
There was nothing to say what voltage they are but at ~3.7V they burn out (I bought a couple extra in case of duds)so 3V would be right.
The 4 pins are marked on the back of the switch, with a + and - for the LED. The other 2 pins don't matter which way you attach the wires. I cut the wires just short enough to directly route from the motherboard, down the side of the bottom fan and reach the bracket then soldered the wires to the pins.
Not unless you're a Harry, wizard.
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55$ PCIExpress right angle riser cable. Allows you to move the Video Card down one slot and then you can fit a standard size ATX Power supply in the Ncase M1. http://www.adexelec.com/pciexp.htm#PE-FLEX16KR-3. This is the only cable I have found that is shielded and can bend properly enough to fit the Video Card in the case properly. Still working great after several months. Less expensive than buying that expensive power supply.
iFreilicht
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I found another one: http://www.delock.de/produkte/F_380_PCIe-x16_89130/merkmale.html
It goes for as little as 34€ and it is quite easy to find shops for it when googling "delock 89130".
Curiositie
Limp Gawd
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So for an update on the Alpenfohn Cooler on the 750ti:
I played AC4 on medium-high for about an hour, and my maximum temperature on the GPU was 71C, which is the same as my old High, and it started at 22C, which is the coolest I've ever seen it, though it went up to 35C or so shortly after boot.
CPU temperatures didn't appreciably change between the stock cooler and the new one.
The biggest change is the complete lack of noise coming from my Ncase now.
Hardware monitor:
I played AC4 on medium-high for about an hour, and my maximum temperature on the GPU was 71C, which is the same as my old High, and it started at 22C, which is the coolest I've ever seen it, though it went up to 35C or so shortly after boot.
CPU temperatures didn't appreciably change between the stock cooler and the new one.
The biggest change is the complete lack of noise coming from my Ncase now.
Hardware monitor:
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It's odd that the strix won't fit but the MSI 4G 970 will. both have the same height per specifications. I guess Asus must not have account for the heatpipes in the final dimensions.
It was mentioned a while back, but I think the part that doesn't fit is the taller PCB area where the SLI connector(s) are
No Hands 55
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So are you saying the 3v burns out? should i get 6v then? i really dont want to have to order several times. but thanks for the info ill order the wires with it
Qrash
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I believe there are some good ideas here: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Removing+a+Stripped+Screw/13213
Curiositie
Limp Gawd
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They only have ~30 extra V3 psu brackets made iirc, since they weren't expecting so many people to want them.
I think the only way to get one now Is to find someone who doesn't want theirs, wait for another run of cases to be done, or for ~500 people to want one so the minimum order requirement could be met to manufacture some.
I think the only way to get one now Is to find someone who doesn't want theirs, wait for another run of cases to be done, or for ~500 people to want one so the minimum order requirement could be met to manufacture some.
The V3 SFX brackets are gone, and the MOQ for a small-margin item like that is 1k+, so don't expect them until the next full production run (which isn't guaranteed, and will likely be a while in any case). Likewise, the only panel kits available are the ones currently on the website. The purpose of not selling kits w/no-ODD tops is just to keep the number of SKUs down to avoid shipping mistakes. We already have enough of a problem with the handful of SKUs we have.
They all burn out if you put too much voltage on them, but the motherboard will always put the correct voltage out.