NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Discussion in 'Small Form Factor Systems' started by wahaha360, Sep 15, 2012.

  1. WiSK

    WiSK 2[H]4U

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    Just cut both ends off. Solder in three lengths of 18 AWG and sleeve. Only tricky bit is that you have to put the sleeve and heatshrink on before soldering one of the connectors.
     
  2. Phuncz

    Phuncz 2[H]4U

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    I only cut one end off, the outer mantle just pulls off easily. It's like this:

    [​IMG]

    I first measured the length I'd be needing, add a little if you are new at this to correct mistakes. I severed the end that goes to the back of the case (leave about 3cm or an inch of wire to solder back onto later) and removed the heatshrink on the plug. This is a good time to note how the wires are connected to what terminal on the plug. I then removed the outer mantle by cutting (gently !) it in 10 cm pieces, deep enough so that bending it seperates it. You can then easily remove the mantle by just sliding it off.

    You then need to strip the wires, about 1cm or 1/2in of bare wire is enough, so you can solder them back later onto the severed plug. Don't forget to put some heatshrink on each wire (don't shrink it yet) so you can protect the open copper strands after you've finished soldering later ! This is the time to put on the sleeving, measure and cut to length, mind the bend or you'll end up like I did with the shorter gray wire... Put the heatshrink for the sleeving over (don't shrink it yet) the sleeved wires, you need two pieces, front and back !

    So let's recap: you got your wires stripped with heatshrink ready to shrunk, you've got sleeving at the correct lengths and heatshrink for the bundle ready to be shrunk. I recommend using a small plastic clamp to keep the sleeving to the back so you can solder the connector without issue.

    Now it's time to solder. If you have left some wire on the severed end, you need to strip it now. Remember to solder the correct wire to terminal, you don't want to short circuit 110V/230V AC. When you've finished, you can shrink the individual wire's heatshrink to cover the bare copper. Then you can release the Kraken, errr. sleeving and heatshrink it. I choose to have a little over the plug at the back of the case but that isn't really necesary.

    I do advise, that if you don't have much or any experience with sleeving and soldering, try this out on random ATX power cables (you must have plenty laying around) first before you go bother Necere and Wahaha360 for spares on this cable ;)
     
  3. WiSK

    WiSK 2[H]4U

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    Smarter :)

    I'm stuck in my ways: always replacing wires with ones that have the same colour as my sleeving. So that I don't see any colour bleed through, e.g. yellow/green wires under white sleeve looks terrible.
     
  4. Phuncz

    Phuncz 2[H]4U

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    Yeah everyone has their own way, which has their merits ofcourse. I can follow your train of thought but the sleeving I use from MDPC is very dense, so it's very hard to see through.
     
  5. WiSK

    WiSK 2[H]4U

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    Yes but I think as well as density it depends which colours you are using. With MDPC black and grey and even grand bleu, it's easy to stretch it enough to cover most colours of wire. With the light sleeving (white, yellow, aqua, vanilla) you get a very different look depending on what colour wire is underneath. Maybe it's because the dye Nils uses for the light colours is less dense or something. I don't know.

    I had a photo somewhere comparing various combinations, but seem to have mislaid it :)
     
  6. Hanakuso

    Hanakuso [H]ard|Gawd

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    Thanks for the info. I'm a little afraid to do the soldering myself so I might try to find someone that can do that for me.

    Btw I just changed my CPU cooler from the Corsair H105 to the NH-C14. Temps are still great and there's a lot more room inside the case now.
     
  7. imode

    imode n00bie

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    Did anyone who ordered spare clips from Lian Li receive them yet? Ordered mine some time ago, and no word of it since. Just wondering if I should expect the slow boat on this as well.
     
  8. salasq

    salasq n00bie

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    Did you perchance take any pics of the H105 inside the case?
     
  9. wahaha360

    wahaha360 Gawd

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    The ones ordered from NCASE were all delivered.
     
  10. Hanakuso

    Hanakuso [H]ard|Gawd

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    Sorry I forgot. I was planning on taking pics before installing the NH-C14 but I guess I was too excited.

    It basically looks slightly more thicker then the H220 setups. With the stock Lian Li filters, its a very tight fit. I installed the rad with the tubes on both left and right side, both didn't have any kinks in the tubing. I had the fans in pull and the radiator itself was sitting on the panel side if that makes sense.

    Btw, with two 2.5" drives, it touches the rad in the front with my H105. That gave me an excuse to buy a M.2 SSD :D
     
  11. salasq

    salasq n00bie

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    Thanks!

    Two drives stacked on inside mount?
     
  12. Hanakuso

    Hanakuso [H]ard|Gawd

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    Yes. It barely touches but still does. Now that I think about it, it touches when the tubes are facing the front of the case. I didn't test it out when it was facing the rear. By the time I tested it facing the rear, I already had my M.2 SSD.

    I've tried the H100i, H105, NH-U9B SE2, and NH-C14. Out of those, my favorite is the NH-C14. I know it differs but with my setup it works the best. I'll take some pictures tonight and post my specs as well.
     
  13. aznever

    aznever Gawd

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    Upon putting my loop together with a frozenq mod res, I found that its leaking badly. It is unfortunate that I am having such a bad experience with this. I have requested a refund @ this point and will probably go with an EK res.

    http://youtu.be/gzx94s4XfHM
     
  14. WiSK

    WiSK 2[H]4U

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    Ouch :mad:

    Can you show a photo of the screw threads in the acrylic?
     
  15. DarkStryke

    DarkStryke [H]ard|Gawd

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    Should go post that on the OCN love thread.
     
  16. Lutfij

    Lutfij Limp Gawd

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    Aznever - Ugly leak! That looks like the threading around the port stoppers aren't proper.
     
  17. Siba

    Siba Limp Gawd

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    Check the oring and make sure it isn't shredded, the threading is pretty sharp and I could imagine it cutting into the orings if screwed in too tightly.
     
  18. Zarathustra[H]

    Zarathustra[H] Pick your own.....you deserve it.

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    I may need to pick up another Mini ITX case in the not to distant future, and I am definitely eyeballing this one.

    Any word on if the silver one in the renderings will be offered in the next build? I'd definitely be in for one of those.

    I'm planning on building a hackintosh for my GF (yeah, I know, Mac... But it's what she likes, and I want to do it right!), and a silver M1 would be PERFECT.

    Anywhere I can look up more info on the Rev2's?
     
  19. AFD

    AFD 2[H]4U

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    M1 v2 revisions will probably be only minor changes. Those improvements are being discussed here..

    http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1809720

    They haven't said, but I'm assuming silver will still be an option if the order is large enough. You can go to NCASES.com to sign-up for any updates, so you don't miss out on the upcoming campaign.
     
  20. Evangelion

    Evangelion n00bie

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    I've had my case since December, and I absolutely love it. My only complaint is that my top and side panels are crooked and they're not flushed with the inner chassis. I ignored them at first, but now my ocd is getting to me and I'm a little disappointed with that. The top panel came screwed in all crooked and there was a bunch of scratches and marks all near the hole where the top panel screw was.

    Anyone have any tips to straighten the side panels? And does anyone have any problems where the side panel vibrates because of the hard drive mount with hard drives installed?
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2014
  21. Skott

    Skott 2[H]4U

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    I agree. They offered both colors last time so I think both would be offered again.
     
  22. CHANG3D

    CHANG3D [H]ardness Supreme

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    same here. I noticed that the panelbend more when I'm taking them out from one side. Now I'm more careful by trying to take them out from both sides.
     
  23. mingqi53

    mingqi53 n00bie

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  24. CHANG3D

    CHANG3D [H]ardness Supreme

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  25. DarkStryke

    DarkStryke [H]ard|Gawd

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    Go down-flow for the reason noted above.
     
  26. Hanakuso

    Hanakuso [H]ard|Gawd

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    I have both of theses coolers and I prefer the C14 with my Asus Impact. With the U9B, I tried to do a push/pull with it exhausting to the top but because of my daugherboard I couldn't. With my setup, the C14 has better temps

    With the UB9, my daugherboard was also very hot to touch
     
  27. cowsgomoo

    cowsgomoo Gawd

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    I guess I like 120mm AIO water coolers more than top-down air coolers because I'm able to use any replacement motherboard without worrying about the socket placement. AIO coolers are also top down.
     
  28. irek83

    irek83 n00bie

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    Hi, I'm new on HardForum. I got ncase m1 and I have a plan put in swiftech h220 and my question is about fans. Original h220 fans are good performance? I need best one because I want cooling GPU as well. With fans are the best airflow and quiet. I'm thinkin to buy NB eloop but not sure it's a best choice.
     
  29. Phuncz

    Phuncz 2[H]4U

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    irek83: I'm using the H220 in the Ncase, cooling my Core i5-4670K and Radeon R9 290X, with the standard fans on the radiator. The pump and fans are running at 50%, which is quiet enough for me and keeps the hardware at ~30°C at idle and at ~50°C at load.
     
  30. irek83

    irek83 n00bie

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    Wow seriously 50 degrees? Did you overclock your bundle? I'm interesting what temps you get when you overclock CPU and GPU
     
  31. DarkStryke

    DarkStryke [H]ard|Gawd

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    You can't over-clock much given the power supply constraints @ 450w.
     
  32. irek83

    irek83 n00bie

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    Sorry I missed your spec. you have a sfx psu.
     
  33. Phuncz

    Phuncz 2[H]4U

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    In the Ncase M1, you can't use an H220 with an ATX PSU, you need to use an SFX PSU.

    [​IMG]
     
  34. irek83

    irek83 n00bie

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    Sorry I don't think what I write. My new question is how to turn the Rad, which option would be better. Fans outside the case or like in the picture above, the same question about PSU.
     
  35. illli

    illli [H]ard|Gawd

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    Phuncz what screws did you use to attach the rad to the plate like that? Did you use some of your own? b/c I didn't see how to attach it like that with the supplied screws that came with the case
     
  36. Phuncz

    Phuncz 2[H]4U

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    illli: I had some flat-top screws lying around that was the right size. But indeed, the screws are not standard.
    irek83: you can mount however you want it, I prefer the fans in a pull configuration, pulling the air from outside through the radiator into the case. But the default configuration (push) is also perfectly possible.
    With the SFX PSU you can choose. I choose the orientation that the fan pulls air from outside the case, because I haven an air filter for it anyway and I don't want to feed it 30-40°C air.
     
  37. vipz

    vipz Gawd

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  38. CHANG3D

    CHANG3D [H]ardness Supreme

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    congratulations everyone, especially necere and wahaha
     
  39. Phuncz

    Phuncz 2[H]4U

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    Nice review and congratulations on the results, I guess not many companies can expect this kind of a postive reviews but you guys deserved it !
     
  40. Necere

    Necere 2[H]4U

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    TBH, I think Lawrence went a bit easy on us. Open cooler GPUs are definitely the M1's weak point, which does pan out in the numbers he got. The problem is open coolers (as opposed to blowers) just dump all their hot air in the case for the system fans to deal with. When you're working with a very small space, there's just not many options for airflow layouts that will work well, while still taking into account component flexibility, proportions (the ubiquitous "shoebox" SFF design being something I wanted to avoid), aesthetics, and manufacturability.

    He didn't touch on it much, but IMO the strength of the M1 is really in its ability to run a full water loop with CPU and GPU. This can get you very good performance at quite acceptable noise levels under load. As far as size : noise : performance, I don't think there's anything that can touch it. The SG07/SG08 probably comes closest, and it will definitely perform better with air-cooled GPUs, but I think a full-loop M1 would still hold its own.