NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

I know everyone has heard enough about PSU fan noise… (hehe, pun not necessarily intended) but I think I have found a solution that I am finally happy with.

My V2 setup had a duct from the 120mm side fan, to the 80mm PSU intake hole. Internal 80mm fan removed. This setup would idle around the 750-800 mark at an ambient of 26 degrees C. RPM is a direct indicator of the internal PSU heatsink temperature as the thermistor controlling fan speed is attached to one of the heatsinks. A lower fan speed is therefore indicative of improved temperatures.

This V3 of the fan mod constitutes the addition of the 92mm fan on the PSU itself. The idea behind this is that the fan sitting closer to the components (compared to the sole 120mm) creates more turbulence to the air in the PSU, and therefore reaches more components, making better use of the air passing through the PSU. This fan also contributes a little to the generation of positive pressure to help bring air through the filters, grilles and through the psu components.

The PSU panel was cut out further to allow for the mounting and utilise the airflow from the 92mm fan. The space between the fan and the side was filled in with tape (not pictured)


Performance wise, there was a Significant improvement. Fan speeds dropped considerably, and acoustically it moved from barely audible to practically silent. For the few out there who are noise freaks beyond practical need, this is a mod that works well in the NCase M1, giving silent full ATX sized PSU fan speeds, with the silverstone SFX psu.

On the Side panel, a 120mm Scthe kama flow 2, spinning at 550-600 RPM, connected to the PSU fan output with a noctua LNA (a resistor).
On the PSU, a noctua NF-B9 fan, spinning at a similar 550-600 rpm, connected to the same PSU fan output with a second similar LNA.

The addition of the duct to connect the fans in series resulted in noticeable (100 rpm) drop. This is possibly because of the direct feed and positive pressure support from the 120mm fan. The Noctua 9B fan is a low pressure fan and needs all the help it can get. This fan is really here just to create the air turbulence within the PSU.

I do not believe the effects of running fans in series being as detrimental as it is made out to be, especially in cases where diameter, and rpm are far from being matched. This mod has certainly demonstrated a huge improvement over the V2 with a single 120mm fan.

As it is, The 2.5" HDDs are the main source of sound :). The from mounted one is not powered, and the internal one is sandwiched tightly with the SSD to keep it quiet.




V2 duct, single 120mm fan.


PSU cutout, and 92mm fan mounted. Gap on the right was covered with tape to ensure seal.


Fans in place. RPM dropped from 750 down to 650. Already a big improvement.


Duct Installation.


RPMs dropped a further 100 rpm, down to 550 rpm. Nice and quiet now :)


Between the duct and the 120mm case fan, there is tape folded over itself, which forms a flexible gasket seal, allowing the pressure to be maintained.

Also note the slim 92mm fan installed under the C14 CPU cooler. So much space, and with the super low rpm CPU fan (which spends most of the time off), the motherboard gets a bit warmer, so this fan was installed. Runs about 400 rpm, just to keep air moving a little.



And while I had my PSU out, I took some pictures of the cables. Pretty happy with how tight I managed to get the stock silverstone cables.




 
I'm seeing if there's a way to get a bulk order of the clips. If possible, and its a cheap enough per-unit cost, I might resell them for members for cheaper than $9 per 4. Waiting on hearing back from Baron now.

If I end up doing this, what would be the best way to ship them? Standard letter mail? Or like the smallest packing envelope?
 
okwchin said:
I know everyone has heard enough about PSU fan noise… (hehe, pun not necessarily intended) but I think I have found a solution that I am finally happy with.
Click to expand...

You've probably already answered this, but i guess I really don't understand why this solution was necessary. :confused: I could understand coil whine being a detriment, but wouldn't fan noise be mitigated either by gameplay over speakers or headphones? In my everyday life, the only time I care about fan noise is with my HTPC or if I'm encoding a video (or other intensive load) on my main rig. Having your PSU fan hit 100% at startup is annoying, but...
 
The stock fan in the power supply was my biggest source of noise. I tried replacing it with the NoiseBlocker 80x15mm fan other people have used, but my NB fan was making a ticking noise that was just about as annoying as the stock fan. So my solution was to remove the fan from inside the power supply and mount a Scythe Kama Flex 80mm fan on the outside using the existing fan mounts. I'm powering if off of the cpu fan header at present with a Fanmate2 so I can adjust the rpm down to 800rpm where the fan is completely silent. I tried running it directly off the power supply's fan header but it didn't work for some reason... Here's what it all looks like.

P1040587.jpg


The fan on top of my cpu (a Scythe SP1225FDB12L 800rpm) is currently just sitting there awaiting me to figure out some way to mount it on top of the Samurai ZZ. I am thinking about switching to the Thermalright AXP-200 to make mounting easier. Anyone have an opinion on which is the better heatsink?

All in all though, my system is dead silent, and it sits on my desk a few feet away. The only way I can tell if its on is to look to see if the fans are spinning, very happy about that :D
 
IncubusBob said:
The stock fan in the power supply was my biggest source of noise. I tried replacing it with the NoiseBlocker 80x15mm fan other people have used, but my NB fan was making a ticking noise that was just about as annoying as the stock fan. So my solution was to remove the fan from inside the power supply and mount a Scythe Kama Flex 80mm fan on the outside using the existing fan mounts. I'm powering if off of the cpu fan header at present with a Fanmate2 so I can adjust the rpm down to 800rpm where the fan is completely silent. I tried running it directly off the power supply's fan header but it didn't work for some reason... Here's what it all looks like.

P1040587.jpg


The fan on top of my cpu (a Scythe SP1225FDB12L 800rpm) is currently just sitting there awaiting me to figure out some way to mount it on top of the Samurai ZZ. I am thinking about switching to the Thermalright AXP-200 to make mounting easier. Anyone have an opinion on which is the better heatsink?

All in all though, my system is dead silent, and it sits on my desk a few feet away. The only way I can tell if its on is to look to see if the fans are spinning, very happy about that :D
Click to expand...

If you don't mind me asking, what kind of videocard do you have?
 
yimingwuzere said:
The slim fan is for the bottom of the case. Just wondering if the extra airflow will help.

I guess I won't be pushing the CPU that much, until the rumoured 600W ST60SF-G turns out to be real. That, or I might end up with a 770 or 780 with a waterblock.
Click to expand...

My 1st run with the M1 i had 2 slimline fans on the bottom and it didn't help my GPU temps are all probably because i was using a dual fan cooler, There are a more than a few people using 290x cards with the 450w.

Necere said:
Depends on the rad and orientation, actually. The H220 rad only allows one because it's longer than a normal 240 rad due to the built-in res, but other rads may allow two SSDs to stack on the inside front.

The problem is if you mount the rad over closer to the back it will hit the power cord so you have to mount it more to the front which then leaves no room for the ssd bracket.

You can use the included brackets to stack two 7mm drives behind the front panel, but the drives need to be face-to-face and it may push the front panel out ever so slightly (~0.5mm).
Click to expand...

Yer i did try that to start with but like you said the front panel was hitting the bracket that why i made mine own out of plastic now the panel sits flush.
 
ajira99 said:
You've probably already answered this, but i guess I really don't understand why this solution was necessary. :confused: I could understand coil whine being a detriment, but wouldn't fan noise be mitigated either by gameplay over speakers or headphones? In my everyday life, the only time I care about fan noise is with my HTPC or if I'm encoding a video (or other intensive load) on my main rig. Having your PSU fan hit 100% at startup is annoying, but...
Click to expand...

Your right, in all practicality, when gaming, I could be turning up the sound and It really wouldn't totally affect the ability to game. But I guess how and where everyone uses their computer is different.

This rig at full CPU load as it is, is still pretty darn silent. I would be happy to be encoding and using this as a HTPC at the same time. But maybe as a desktop PC, because its closer to me, and I have a need to tinker, its something that just keeps me busy. I guess its a hobby.

Last time I gamed was at least a month ago, and when I do, its usually through speakers rather than headphones. I find I get a better soundstage, imaging and real body moving sound through my speakers. (so yes, PC sound becomes practically irrelevant)

For the remainder of the time this computer sits under the table, or on the table, and I am browsing the net or doing something at idle, maybe listening to music at low levels, and where I am is library reading room quiet.

I guess the quote that applies for me, "if it aint broke, it aint got enough features"…. I guess I need to build a new PC to distract me from this one… apparently I can't help myself from tinkering. I guess its that feeling of satisfaction when its achieved.
 
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IncubusBob said:
The stock fan in the power supply was my biggest source of noise. I tried replacing it with the NoiseBlocker 80x15mm fan other people have used, but my NB fan was making a ticking noise that was just about as annoying as the stock fan. So my solution was to remove the fan from inside the power supply and mount a Scythe Kama Flex 80mm fan on the outside using the existing fan mounts. I'm powering if off of the cpu fan header at present with a Fanmate2 so I can adjust the rpm down to 800rpm where the fan is completely silent. I tried running it directly off the power supply's fan header but it didn't work for some reason... Here's what it all looks like.

The fan on top of my cpu (a Scythe SP1225FDB12L 800rpm) is currently just sitting there awaiting me to figure out some way to mount it on top of the Samurai ZZ. I am thinking about switching to the Thermalright AXP-200 to make mounting easier. Anyone have an opinion on which is the better heatsink?

All in all though, my system is dead silent, and it sits on my desk a few feet away. The only way I can tell if its on is to look to see if the fans are spinning, very happy about that :D
Click to expand...

I like your selection of fans ;). My kama is a 1400 model, and I love it.

Before you go buy yourself a new heatsink, How much room do you have above the samurai. Could you use the frame of an old gutted 92mm fan, a 92-120 adapter and mount the 120 onto that. It may be a little tall and top heavy, but it would allow you to mount the fan, and force the air through the heatsink (may be better for the CPU, less so for the mobo). Also helps to encourage the 120mm fan to pull air from the side panel rather than from the inside which is warmer due to your gpu.

*Edit, looking at reviews and photos, I see that the Samurai ZZ is mounted by push pins. I am not as keen on these and would actually caution against what I suggested of increasing the height and weight of the heatsink as this is a "tower" case and the heatsink sits sideways.
 
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ajira99 said:
You've probably already answered this, but i guess I really don't understand why this solution was necessary. :confused: I could understand coil whine being a detriment, but wouldn't fan noise be mitigated either by gameplay over speakers or headphones? In my everyday life, the only time I care about fan noise is with my HTPC or if I'm encoding a video (or other intensive load) on my main rig. Having your PSU fan hit 100% at startup is annoying, but...
Click to expand...

hehe, yep I just put on headphones and I can't hear anything anymore. My wife on the other hand... :(
 
okwchin said:
I like your selection of fans ;). My kama is a 1400 model, and I love it.

Before you go buy yourself a new heatsink, How much room do you have above the samurai. Could you use the frame of an old gutted 92mm fan, a 92-120 adapter and mount the 120 onto that. It may be a little tall and top heavy, but it would allow you to mount the fan, and force the air through the heatsink (may be better for the CPU, less so for the mobo). Also helps to encourage the 120mm fan to pull air from the side panel rather than from the inside which is warmer due to your gpu.

*Edit, looking at reviews and photos, I see that the Samurai ZZ is mounted by push pins. I am not as keen on these and would actually caution against what I suggested of increasing the height and weight of the heatsink as this is a "tower" case and the heatsink sits sideways.
Click to expand...

Nice, the Kama fans are awesome. I am very happy with mine.

Hm yeah it uses push pins, it is not a great design. I like the heatsink itself, but I had a ton of trouble with the push pins when I mounted it. As far as I can tell, they are the same as on the stock Intel hsf, you push down till they click then turn to the right. Except when mounting the Samurai ZZ I wasn't able to get it down far enough to lock the pins. I'm afraid if I move the Ncase around the heatsink will pop off :( That is part of the reason I am thinking of the AXP-200.

Mounting the fan on the side panel above the cpu is an option, but its less effective.
 
I'm guesssing that your mobo is a gigabyte or a MSI with its low CPU placement, which limits you to heatsinks with an offset design?

Also, I haven't put in a stock HSF in a while, but I was under the understanding that it was a case of, 1) rotate the pin anticlockwise (if not already), and 2) push to insert.

Rotating the pin Clockwise after installing is only to release the heatsink?
 
Can any with the SilverStone ST45SF-G thats getting Noise whine through there audio please PM me I'm also getting this problem and would like to talk to other people to see what components there using.
 
Is there any plans to do a panel run in the near future?
I only ask as my top panel has had minor issues with the anodising process and one of the side panels is slightly warped 3/4 of the way down to the edge. It's an annoyance, but I'm not really sure it warrants a replacement.

Regards
 
Hypnowhirl said:
Is there any plans to do a panel run in the near future?
I only ask as my top panel has had minor issues with the anodising process and one of the side panels is slightly warped 3/4 of the way down to the edge. It's an annoyance, but I'm not really sure it warrants a replacement.

Regards
Click to expand...

Most are warped its thin metal can't be helped.
 
OverRated said:
Most are warped its thin metal can't be helped.
Click to expand...
Than I must be lucky because mine looks as straight as it can to the naked eye. Only with another perfectly straight thing to compare it, I noticed mine was off by about a millimeter (shadows make it more obvious):

ygzblDB.png


If someone's top panel shows real deformity that is obvious with the naked eye, I think you should contact Wahaha360 and/or Necere.
 
Phuncz said:
Than I must be lucky because mine looks as straight as it can to the naked eye. Only with another perfectly straight thing to compare it, I noticed mine was off by about a millimeter (shadows make it more obvious):

ygzblDB.png


If someone's top panel shows real deformity that is obvious with the naked eye, I think you should contact Wahaha360 and/or Necere.
Click to expand...

Yer thats what i mean they mite look fine to the naked eye but could be warped, The side panels on mine are warped a bit its easy to see looking at the gaps.
 
:cool:Hello everyone, I've been unable to have success in these issues. Could anyone help?
Question 1:
I need help locating some decent feet for the case (searches turn up parts measured in feet)
and I have some ideas that may need correction, regarding cooling, airflow, etc. Does anyone have a source in USA or anywhere else? I am trying to raise the case to approx 1/2 inch clearance to increase efficiency of my bottom mounted fans, which will also be raised 7mm from the interior bottom and externally mounted filters. I am just using the stock filters there, since I will just regularly run a strong vacuum brush on them and don't forsee any need to remove and wash them.

Since my "design goal" is, above all, for the case to have filtered "positive air pressure", which by definition means bringing in the cooler outside air, I will have no exhaust fans, as that may defeat the whole purpose.

Thanks in advance, to anyone who answers or comments. I did see someone posting about the raising the case and putting a 7mm rubber shroud on the fan intakes (which is why I own some now), but I haven't been able to find that post yet.
M1 case S/N 0298.
2 bottom-mounted CougarPWM (I will not use them as pwm, will manually control voltage)
M60 will be testing with stock Corsair vs. Noctua NF-F12 & post results of course.
SF45-G ready to mod.
MSI mobo.
ODD later if room
GPU mid-range, to exceed Intel, & only if I still breathe & have money
 
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okwchin said:
I guess the quote that applies for me, "if it aint broke, it aint got enough features"…. I guess I need to build a new PC to distract me from this one… apparently I can't help myself from tinkering. I guess its that feeling of satisfaction when its achieved.
Click to expand...
If that isn't copyright protected, I intend to adopt it. I have been living that all my life! :D
 
So as a PSA for those who are having noise issues using the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 and Demciflex NCASE filters for the side, I have determined the root cause of the issue. I was initially confused on how GT AP-15 could be so loud despite all the rave reviews online, well apparently the fan hub is touching the Demciflex filters. On closer inspection, the Demcifilters have enough slack to intrude on the GT AP-15. You can verify this by removing the side fan bracket out of the case with the filters and fan installed and spin the fan by hand; you'll hear the same noise issue as before, but if you remove the fan filter, you'll hear the renowned silence that GT AP-15 are known for. Unfortunately, you won't be able to enjoy the Demciflex's dust prevention unless you have spare magnetic adhesives and install them directly onto the NCASE side panel.

Beyond that, I finally received my case and have transferred all my components from my loaner case to the NCASE M1 and managed to delid the i7 4770k concurrently. Here's an album of the transfer and delidding, http://imgur.com/a/sSm6B. My profile also has the build of the pre-NCASE build.
 
AFD said:
TL;DR, lol. Focus Attack 40mm feet are identical to the ones that ship
with the M1 and fit perfectly. I bought a set ... (truncated)
http://www.focusattack.com/tags/feet[/URL] If you want something taller, maybe check here..
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=130_133[/URL]
Click to expand...
:DThanks, AFD, checking it out. Never heard of FocusAttack,thanks for new source.:)
No comprendo "TL;DR". :confused:
 
DrWattsOn said:
:DThanks, AFD, checking it out. Never heard of FocusAttack,thanks for new source.:)
No comprendo "TL;DR". :confused:
Click to expand...

Sure thing!
Traditionally, the phrase too long; didn't read (abbreviated tl;dr or simply tldr) has been used on the Internet as a reply to an excessively long statement.
Click to expand...

Sorry, was at work and just wanted to point you in the right direction for case feet ;)

Just now got a chance to read through your whole post, and guess I don't have much else input on the rest. I stuck 2x Noctua F12 fans in the bottom of mine, and while I'm not really sure how well they'll provide positive pressure, the narrow airstream on those probably aren't colliding too much.. really quiet, pleasant sounding fans though. Bottom fan running parallel to GPU fan probably isn't ideal, but I think others have reported lower GPU temps doing so. 92mm rear fan as intake on watercooled setup might be okay, but I really don't see it being at an angle enough to help much with mobo temps.. maybe?

Not sure about the shroud and blocking perforations ideas.. don't think it will hurt to try.

I'm sure the majority of all this stuff will probably require trial and error, and results will likely vary depending on your particular parts and setup. Be sure to check out many of Okwchin's post, as he seems to be on the cutting edge of M1 fluid dynamics :D
 
I run two GT ap-16 fans on the bottom. Have 1-2mm between the fans. I find the concept of air buffeting between blades due to close proximity is not a significant issue. If the fans did not have shrouds then yes but in my experiences with playing with fans would have me wore worried about having things within the front few mm of a fan

I'll add to my post later but I did mention about raising the case and lifting the fans off
 
okwchin said:
I run two GT ap-16 fans on the bottom. Have 1-2mm between the fans. I find the concept of air buffeting between blades due to close proximity is not a significant issue. If the fans did not have shrouds then yes but in my experiences with playing with fans would have me wore worried about having things within the front few mm of a fan

I'll add to my post later but I did mention about raising the case and lifting the fans off
Click to expand...
@okwchin
Thank you for remark re: buffeting, & I will look up your old post.:)
 
I also had two slimline coolermaster fans on the bottom of my M1 before i went water and could only have them pushing air out as the fan blades would hit the bottom of the case as they wobble.
 
astyler said:
Anyone have this running with two 240 rads internally yet? Just curious if it had been attempted, haven't seen it online. You can definitely fit a thin rad with thin fans under the GPU, but its more fittings, more tubing, and might make the loop tough (while also using a side 240 rad).

Seems like it would help for some hotter equipment, though.
Click to expand...

Mine is 99% together, just waiting on my GTX770 waterblock.

Ive got magicool slim radiators with scythe 12mm fans, and I have a couple gelid 15mm fans that I may use on the bottom. I'm using an Apogee Drive 2 pump/cpu block

The fittings for the bottom radiator are gonna be the issue.

Will post pics when I finally get my waterblock to put the loop together.

Im going with 2 240 rads because I have them on hand, I only have an ssd and 2.5in hard drive, and because I can. Itll double the area of radiator I have, which would mean lower water temps and slower fans. From my experience the 12mm scythe fans work quite well, and at around 900rpm are nearly silent and were able to keep my system cool in my prodigy with only a single 240 and single 120.
 
Found it… http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040566017&postcount=10058

SO from an acoustic point of view, the things I would from a holistic point of view do to reduce sound, ranked in order of decreasing priority. Of course, compromises must be made, and thats the fun part about building a system.

1) Low thermal load components - undervolted CPUs, low TDP GPUs.

and

2) High thermal transfer capacity - so a Low thermal resistance, an ability to get the heat out to the outside air easily.

2.1) High airflow. - Lots of air flow THROUGH the heatsinks allows the heat to be transferred into the air quicker. The ability to transfer heat to the air is reliant on, Temperature difference, air replacement rate, and surface area.
2.1.1) The higher the difference in temperature, the faster the heat transfers into the air. This means letting the component get hotter means you don't need as much airflow. More relevantly, it means ensuring the heatsink gets the coolest air possible, sourcing air from outside, and not recirculating any hot air.
2.1.2) The more air that passes THROUGH a heatsink, the more heat you can get rid of. (air that passes in, around a heatsink and back out of the case doesn't contribute to cooling that component)
2.1.3) Surface area gives the heat more opportunities to be transferred into the air. Having lots of surface area means you don't need as much airflow

3) Low AIRSPEED. - This doesn't necessarily mean reduced airflow, but keeping the airspeed down to reduce the amount of turbulence, as turbulence (mostly buffeting) is what creates noise. What this means is using more and larger diameter fans spinning at lower RPMs to push the same volume of air.

4) Efficient use of air flow - Creating airflow generates noise, so needing less airflow can help keep things quiet for a given cooling capacity. Making better use of the airflow means having a clear airflow pathway that has a distinct inlet area, and outlet area with minimal recirculation. Giving all components a fair share of cool intake air and getting that air out. In the case of this computer, the duct between the side fan and the PSU fan is to give the PSU the cool air from the outside of the case, rather than giving it air exhausted from the GPU.

Efficient use also means allowing a fan to do its job, and choosing a fan that can do the job you need it to. This case ends up being a high resistance system where its strongly positive pressure, or has lots of things in the way - filters, grilles, small vent holes, components, close proximity to surfaces. Generally a high pressure fan in this case is a safer choice, for reasons listed in my linked post.


So to summarise, for a quiet And cool system.

Use more efficient components, meaning avoiding the need to overvolt.
Get as big a heatsink as practically necessary
Use more fans, and larger diameter fans that spin at lower RPMs.
Ensure the airflow pathways are clear and that components get their required share if cool intake air, be it air from the outside of the case, or put components that need cooler air in the front of the line.
 
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@okwchin Ahhh, there it is! Page 503: post 10058, like you said!
okwchin said:
(very truncated since original is available)
Filters are the ones that the case came with, mounted to the outside of the case.

Fan selection and mounting is important for fan performance. ...
The Scythe GT was selected here because it is a High static pressure fan, Has BB for horizontal operation, and is known for quiet and power efficient operation.

The High pressure is useful here to overcome the resistance of the filters and grille, and also to counter the back pressure of the case, given that two intakes on the bottom and two at the side panel will give a strongly positive pressure case, ... .

The other issue is aerodynamic, where having anything close to the front of any fan will cause the blades to stall (lose laminar flow) and therefore not actually push air. The GTs in my experimentation are the hardest fan to stall, and work happily down to 1", while ... . Remember though that this case will give you barely half an inch between the table top and the fan, not to mention the grille and filters!
... , so what I have done with my fans is mount the filter on the outside, lift the fan up from the case bottom about 1/8", and extend the feet an extra 1/8" too.
I found for my GTs, the ideal minimum lift was an extra 1/8" off the table. Another 1/8 would also give an improvement but more than that saw less gains. ... ... This is where a high static pressure fan really really shines.
Click to expand...
So I am gonna "eat" my Cougars costwise, and get some GTs, but haven't found the 2150 you list as your rig. I show 7 on FrozenPC. Which rpm would you recommend for bottom intake. I am thinking 1150, (or maybe the 4250 to keep the rig firmly rooted to the desktop) :rolleyes: Seriously, 4250rpm! !! !!! Thanks for insights and basics-review. My filters are on outside, and fans mounted on rubber shrouds 7mm thick. ;)
 
I wouldn't say the GTs are the holy grail of fans. To be honest, I don't think the differences would be drastic enough to justify spending all that money again. Just use the system first and see how you go, it may not even be necessary. Sometimes I think its just a case of "the grass is greener on the other side", as I have been looking at getting some PWM fans over my GTs such as the corsair SP120 because it allows me to drive it off the graphic cards PWM output.

Also, the "AP-16" (2150rpm) is from a group buy. I am only using it because I never ended up using them in my previous build. I don't let mine run more than 1500 rpm as that gives me an acceptable gaming loudness vs a GPU temp of sub 60 degrees C. An ap-15 is more than I personally need rpm wise. Fortunately the GTs under volt really smoothly. Just choose what you need depending on how your fan controller works.

I have the 4250 rpm GT too. Its an awesome fan, black in colour. It really cranks up the airflow significantly. Still runs soo smooth. Aerodynamic (and therefore acoustic) performance is amazing for the amount of air that comes out. Only problem with that fan is undervolting it. Because of the higher output motor, the motor is not as quiet and has a mild tick sound related to the hard switching of the power phases of the motor. At lower RPMs, when the acoustics are not the dominant sound, the ticking becomes more apparent. The minimum starting RPM is also around the 1000 mark!!

Unsurprisingly, this fan never really saw any use for me, except for the fact that the high speed GTs have the ability to be modded to accept PWM signals and be PWM controlled. Makes me wonder if the 3000 RPM GT is worthy of consideration. Use a resistor to limit the max rpm, and have a PWM controlled GT…. I already have double digits of fans new in box unused because of my curiosity in the search for a good fan. (and reviews are helpful, but it makes you appreciate how different everyones opinion can be)
 
Ace of Six said:
So as a PSA for those who are having noise issues using the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 and Demciflex NCASE filters for the side, I have determined the root cause of the issue. I was initially confused on how GT AP-15 could be so loud despite all the rave reviews online, well apparently the fan hub is touching the Demciflex filters. On closer inspection, the Demcifilters have enough slack to intrude on the GT AP-15. You can verify this by removing the side fan bracket out of the case with the filters and fan installed and spin the fan by hand; you'll hear the same noise issue as before, but if you remove the fan filter, you'll hear the renowned silence that GT AP-15 are known for. Unfortunately, you won't be able to enjoy the Demciflex's dust prevention unless you have spare magnetic adhesives and install them directly onto the NCASE side panel.
Click to expand...

Would adding washers to the fan mount screws be enough to offset the contact between the fanhub and the filters?
 
Alakan said:
Would adding washers to the fan mount screws be enough to offset the contact between the fanhub and the filters?
Click to expand...

I don't have any washers on hand but my fans have maybe 5mm clearance from the Noctua NH-C14 right now. I'll give it a try when I stop by the hardware store.
 
Ace of Six said:
So as a PSA for those who are having noise issues using the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 and Demciflex NCASE filters for the side, I have determined the root cause of the issue. I was initially confused on how GT AP-15 could be so loud despite all the rave reviews online, well apparently the fan hub is touching the Demciflex filters. On closer inspection, the Demcifilters have enough slack to intrude on the GT AP-15.
Click to expand...
Well shoot. I was planning to use AP-15s with the Demciflex filters.
Luckily I want to water cool, so would there be a difference in performance if it was mounted filter/radiator/fan instead of filter/fan/radiator?
 
foremi said:
Mine is 99% together, just waiting on my GTX770 waterblock.

Ive got magicool slim radiators with scythe 12mm fans, and I have a couple gelid 15mm fans that I may use on the bottom. I'm using an Apogee Drive 2 pump/cpu block

The fittings for the bottom radiator are gonna be the issue.

Will post pics when I finally get my waterblock to put the loop together.

Im going with 2 240 rads because I have them on hand, I only have an ssd and 2.5in hard drive, and because I can. Itll double the area of radiator I have, which would mean lower water temps and slower fans. From my experience the 12mm scythe fans work quite well, and at around 900rpm are nearly silent and were able to keep my system cool in my prodigy with only a single 240 and single 120.
Click to expand...


Oddly enough with the rad that I had, which was a magicool, two screw holes lined right up towards the front. Had some extra case screws that were wide top and fit perfectly. It is only screwed at that point, but...I'm not going to flip it over so I'm not to worried about it. It's not moving.

running the tubing is kinda interesting because all of your PSU cables are literally RIGHT THERE. currently have a ball of wire with tubing sprouting through it.
 
Scripticon said:
Well shoot. I was planning to use AP-15s with the Demciflex filters.
Luckily I want to water cool, so would there be a difference in performance if it was mounted filter/radiator/fan instead of filter/fan/radiator?
Click to expand...

I don't think there would be much difference, I know that Linus has a video that showed no difference with the Noctua pressure fans. In fact, for maintenance it is better to have the fans in a pull configuration to allow for easy dust cleaning if you didn't have air filters.
 
Well i got a Asus anti-surge was triggered message last night when playing BF4 so just shows that the 450w PSU cant handle any overclocks will have to wait for the 550w to come out.
 
It's not that the ST45SF-G can't handle any overclocks.
It's that you are pushing the limit with the fastest CPU on a mITX motherboard, combined with the fastest single-GPU card, complimented with (in your case) 4 storage devices and watercooling.

It's a testament to the PSU that it can actually handle that kind of hardware without flinching and overclocking puts a lot more load on a PSU.
 
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