NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

adamantium said:
You can use either, it doesn't really matter at high or low flow rates. I was planning to use the 'right' side as intake initially, but I found it better with the Asus Impact configuration I went with to use the 'left' side as intake. It gave me a little more room for the expansion slot and less crossed tubing.
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Thanks. That will indeed make it easier to build a cleaner config. Alex at FrozenQ will have a new laser on monday and will send the reservoir soon. The rest of my components are staring at me. :D
 
Necere, thank you for the parts guide and making the demci filters. Very helpful and awesome.

supersnail said:
The cables are the silverstone PP06B series...
For the H87N-WIFI it was much easier keeping things clean and tidy with these cables than it was with the stock cables that came with the PSU.
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Thanks for the info! I'm using the Gigabyte H87 as well, but mine is just a beginners build. I'm extremely happy with it, but would eventually like to fine tune it for noise and cooling. I'm not interested in overclocking, so was glad to see your build. Let us know if you find ways to improve your load temps. I wish this forum had a Gigbyte MB thread (like they have for some of the ASUS and Asrock itx boards), as I have a few questions and Gigabyte is ignoring my emails. :rolleyes:

supersnail said:
... and the second is that now that the build is finished i've got nothing to work on :p
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Yeah, I hear that. The planning and building part was fun. I wish there was a place I could go muck about practicing different builds without having to spend mega-monies on parts.
 
Having a lot of trouble with the WIFI on my ASUS Z87I-Deluxe board. Specifically it recognizes no wireless connections available. This is while running Win 7 Pro 64 bit. The weird thing is that for a short time I had Win 8.1 Pro 64 bit installed and the wireless worked fine.

I had to revert back to Win 7 due to constant blue screens and GPU crashes.

Anyone else with the Z87 Deluxe having these WIFI issues? :confused:



Just wanted to add that I've done multiple clean installs of Windows as well as the Broadcomm drivers for the wireless card.
 
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TurbineTech said:
Anyone else with the Z87 Deluxe having these WIFI issues? :confused:
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Check out the Newegg reviews on this board.. only negatives seem to be with WiFi issues and/or failure of the WiFi module.

Only suggestions I can think of.. check the antenna (not sure if the 2x wires can be interchanged, or are specific to each port).. make sure the thin antenna wire isn't kinked or damaged.. try another antenna if you have one.

Also, maybe set SSID to broadcast name (instead of hidden) on router.

Might be a pain in the butt, but you could reinstall Win 8 again, just to verify that the WiFi is still working and didn't just coincidentally crap out after you switched to 7.

EDIT: 2x wires don't seem to be specific to either port. Also, check in the BIOS that Wi-Fi controller is set to enabled.. maybe check the status LEDs by the antenna connection.
 
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TurbineTech said:
Having a lot of trouble with the WIFI on my ASUS Z87I-Deluxe board. Specifically it recognizes no wireless connections available. This is while running Win 7 Pro 64 bit. The weird thing is that for a short time I had Win 8.1 Pro 64 bit installed and the wireless worked fine.

I had to revert back to Win 7 due to constant blue screens and GPU crashes.

Anyone else with the Z87 Deluxe having these WIFI issues? :confused:



Just wanted to add that I've done multiple clean installs of Windows as well as the Broadcomm drivers for the wireless card.
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Mine does the same. But only after windows goes into sleep mode. Unplugging the PC for 10 seconds resets the wifi module.
 
ZeeKay said:
I emailed them last week. They said they have an order in with Lian Li and they should get them sometime early/mid February. I'm totally going to try to get a bag of them. I see myself using this case for the next decade or more. :D
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That's great new. Yeah I'll buy enough to replace all of them just "in case"... i'm so funny.... :mad:
 
AFD said:
Check out the Newegg reviews on this board.. only negatives seem to be with WiFi issues and/or failure of the WiFi module.

Might be a pain in the butt, but you could reinstall Win 8 again, just to verify that the WiFi is still working and didn't just coincidentally crap out after you switched to 7.

EDIT: 2x wires don't seem to be specific to either port. Also, check in the BIOS that Wi-Fi controller is set to enabled.. maybe check the status LEDs by the antenna connection.
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Yeah, I had seen where people just had to RMA the board. I've got it ripped out of my rig at the moment cause Newegg was going to RMA, but they won't since the Thermaltake CLC backplate I had on there ripped a piece of the serial number sticker off. So if I get some time I will throw it all back together tomorrow.

I originally had Win 7 on there and it didn't work, put 8 on it worked, then had to reinstall 7 and it didn't work again.

Never thought to check the BIOS, but the status LED by the antenna connection has always been on. :(
 
bbskd87 said:
Mine does the same. But only after windows goes into sleep mode. Unplugging the PC for 10 seconds resets the wifi module.
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Thanks for the heads up, I don't recall ever actually doing this, but who knows. I will try it once I get it back together since Newegg won't RMA. Worst case I'll just cough up for a USB wireless ac adapter to go with my new router... :(
 
Dephcon said:
That's great new. Yeah I'll buy enough to replace all of them just "in case"... i'm so funny.... :mad:
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Same here. I'll buy any spares W360 can get his hands on.. extra plastic clips, screws, rubber washers.

I use my PCs forever, so it's not like I'm gonna be able to find this stuff another decade from now.

TurbineTech said:
I've got it ripped out of my rig at the moment cause Newegg was going to RMA, but they won't since the Thermaltake CLC backplate I had on there ripped a piece of the serial number sticker off.
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Nice. I still shop there, but Newegg is teh suck incarnate :mad:

Even if the status lights are working, I'd still check the BIOS to make sure it's not disabled or something goofy. Also, you can get a pair of RP-SMA 2.4/5GHz antennas for around $5 (or maybe borrow one from a router).. wouldn't hurt to rule that out.

Also, shot in the dark.. double check that you didn't install the Win 8 wireless drivers again when you went back to 7. And for the hell of it, maybe update the BIOS firmware.. new one just came out today.

bbskd87 said:
Mine does the same. But only after windows goes into sleep mode. Unplugging the PC for 10 seconds resets the wifi module.
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Lol, that's annoying. Hope it's a rare occurrence, and not something that happens every time it wakes from sleep.
 
Hello, it's my first post here on hardforum, I've been reading alot on this thread looking for answer for my own build. Here are a few pictures of my build if it could help anyone figuring out any compatibility... I'm not a pro cable routing so dont critic too much hehe

Setup :
- Asus Impact
- i7 4770k
- 16gb Ripjaws 2133 (ain't low profile but same height as the MB extention)
- Samsung EVO with slim WD 1TB (7mm) in wandwich behind Optical Drive
- Silverstone 450w Gold with the CP5 cables
- My Sexy lady miss Radeon 5850 :p
- Noctua C14 with only one 140mm fan


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AFD said:
Same here. I'll buy any spares W360 can get his hands on.. extra plastic clips, screws, rubber washers.

Nice. I still shop there, but Newegg is teh suck incarnate :mad:

Even if the status lights are working, I'd still check the BIOS to make sure it's not disabled or something goofy. Also, you can get a pair of RP-SMA 2.4/5GHz antennas for around $5 (or maybe borrow one from a router).. wouldn't hurt to rule that out.

Also, shot in the dark.. double check that you didn't install the Win 8 wireless drivers again when you went back to 7. And for the hell of it, maybe update the BIOS firmware.. new one just came out today.
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Did I miss the train for spare case parts? I need some extra female clips for the side panels since I broke one, as well as stripped a couple SSD mounting screws.. :(

As far as Newegg, I hear ya. Unfortunately for some reason they were cheaper on the things I needed than Amazon and I had a budget. :( I did file a complaint against them through the Google Trusted Stores program though. We'll see where that gets me.

Since I'm not holding my breath for an RMA (just ordered this as well http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FB45USW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I'll put the rig back together tomorrow and test the new BIOS firmware. Thanks for letting me know it was out!
 
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Gandergray said:
FYI: Because I installed a more power hungry video card in my build, I also chose to install a 140mm power supply (SeaSonic S12G-750 http://www.seasonicusa.com/S12G.htm ). The AC inlet orientation of the SeaSonic S12G-750 precludes use of the internal right angle connector 18/3 AWG power cord that is provided with the M1 NCase—and I wanted to use the more robust 16/3 AWG power cord that came with the SeaSonic S12G-750. You can purchase more robust power cords with IEC 320 C13 left or down angle connectors from retailers, such as: http://www.stayonline.com/5-15-c13-angled-cords.aspx , but the molded IEC 320 C13 connecters typically have a height of 39mm, and thus, are too tall to fit in the available space between 140mm power supplies and the top of the M1 NCase—even when plugged into the power supply. To solve the height interference problem, I chose to use a rewireable IEC C13 connector, namely the Schurter 4012 http://www.schurter.com/Components/Connectors/Cord-Connectors-rewireable/4012 ; or 4300-6 http://www.schurter.com/en/Components/Connectors/Cord-Connectors-rewireable/4300-06 . I cut off the molded IEC 320 C13 connecter, rewired the 16/3 AWG power cord to the Schurter connector, and then, instead of attaching the cover or “lid” of the Schurter connector, I wound electrical tape over the exposed wires and screw terminals. By refraining from using the cover or “lid” of the Schurter connector, there is plenty of clearance or room between the M1 NCase cover and the top of the Schurter C13 connecter.
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Do you have some pictures of it?
 
Trying to recycle as much as I have from my old build used in the Bitfenix Prodigy:

Core i7 3770K
Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe
2x4GB G.Skill Ripjaws Blue
Gigabyte Geforce GTX 670 Windforce
2x240GB Intel 520 Series SSD
1TB 3.5" WD Black
Going to buy a ST45SF-G soon

Thinking of how to set up cooling around this machine. Using the GTX 670 I have precludes the use of the 3.5 HDD mount at the bottom of the case. At the same time the NH-C14 temps from Necere's test setup isn't that impressive after those fans got removed. Should I swap out the GTX 670 for a blower fan equivalent card, move the 3.5" HDD to the bottom of the case, then get a Swiftech H220?
 
Regarding my earlier 10183 post: The two rewireable Schurter connectors are the 4300-6 (left) and the 4012 (right).

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The 4012 is a bit bigger. Here they are disassembled.

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Here is the 4300-6, rewired to the power supply cord, without electrical tape, and connected to the power supply.

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Now with electrical tape.

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A top view with the power cord attached.

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A side view of my rather conventional air cooled build. (I extensively shortened my power supply cables.)

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Reporting in from the Netherlands... without damages I might add upon first inspection!

(Who knows .. maybe Murphy decided to give me a break!)

Silver case with silver feet - Serial 0880
Black case with black feet - Serial 0113

And yet again I have to add to the cliché saying "Holy crap.. it's tiny!"
 
EvilDeffy said:
Reporting in from the Netherlands... without damages I might add upon first inspection!

(Who knows .. maybe Murphy decided to give me a break!)

Silver case with silver feet - Serial 0880
Black case with black feet - Serial 0113

And yet again I have to add to the cliché saying "Holy crap.. it's tiny!"
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:D
Hooray! That's GOOD news.
Now you can enjoy actually building your rig. Best wishes. Maybe Murphy's "enforcers" will be on holiday, and just have to "issue you a citation" when you've succeeded?
Please, let us all know how it's going?
 
Hey, love all the nice builds, if somehow anyone have one left over, I'll gladly take it off your hands! Too bad I missed the train :(
 
Trying to find the Silverstone ST45SF-G PSU and PP05-E cable set. Lowest price I could find for the PSU is $94.99 at Amazon, but the cable set seems to have been backordered. Anyone know where I can find them in stock at the lowest price?
 
I was too late to lay my hands on one of the M1 cases so I desperately built one out of a Cubitek Mini Cube.

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It turned out to be OK!?...:p :D
 
Proglin said:
Thanks. If you changed my PSU to seasonic I will try something like this or try to invert psu connector (breaking warranty :( )
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I thinking more seriously about opening up the PSU and inverting the PSU receptacle (IEC 320 C14 Male Plug 3 Pins PCB Panel Power Inlet Socket Connector) for the power cord. If it pops out, and can be rotated 180 degrees and pops back in, then that is the easiest solution except for warranty issue, which I don't really care about as much as safety,
 
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rpgman1 said:
Trying to find the Silverstone ST45SF-G PSU and PP05-E cable set. Lowest price I could find for the PSU is $94.99 at Amazon, but the cable set seems to have been backordered. Anyone know where I can find them in stock at the lowest price?
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FrozenCPU has 5 of the PP05-E sets in-stock right now. Newegg emailed me a few days ago that they got some, but they didn't last too long. Personally, I'd just order them through Amazon, since they've been shipping them out early to existing orders (even when it was still showing a 2-4 week ETA). Just don't order them with something else that's out-of-stock (ie, CP11 cables), or it will hold up your entire order.

Seems like Silverstone can only manage to ship out a few here and there to retailers. Also, it's very unlikely that you'll find the ST45SF-G any cheaper than $95 until right before the new 600W drops later this year. Newegg had them on sale for $20 off right before the 2.0 versions arrived.. but that's the only price drop I've seen during the past year.
 
AFD said:
FrozenCPU has 5 of the PP05-E sets in-stock right now. Newegg emailed me a few days ago that they got some, but they didn't last too long. Personally, I'd just order them through Amazon, since they've been shipping them out early to existing orders (even when it was still showing a 2-4 week ETA). Just don't order them with something else that's out-of-stock (ie, CP11 cables), or it will hold up your entire order.

Seems like Silverstone can only manage to ship out a few here and there to retailers. Also, it's very unlikely that you'll find the ST45SF-G any cheaper than $95 until right before the new 600W drops later this year. Newegg had them on sale for $20 off right before the 2.0 versions arrived.. but that's the only price drop I've seen during the past year.
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Didn't know a 600W version would come out this year. Might as well wait and see.
 
Zombeezy said:
I thinking more seriously about opening up the PSU and inverting the PSU receptacle (IEC 320 C14 Male Plug 3 Pins PCB Panel Power Inlet Socket Connector) for the power cord. If it pops out, can be rotated 180 degrees and pops back in, then that is the easiest solution except for warranty issue, which I don't really care about as much as safety,
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Flipping the inlet on the Seasonic is going to be extremely difficult.

You can see in the pics here: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=326 that the inlet is soldered to a small PCB along with the power switch and some other stuff.
 
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Anyone have this running with two 240 rads internally yet? Just curious if it had been attempted, haven't seen it online. You can definitely fit a thin rad with thin fans under the GPU, but its more fittings, more tubing, and might make the loop tough (while also using a side 240 rad).

Seems like it would help for some hotter equipment, though.
 
Does anyone have any recommendations for a quiet GPU around $250-ish (thinking something like a gtx 660 or 760). I know blower style tend to be on the louder side, so I don't mind non-reference designs. I've currently got a gts 250 that besides being a little long in the tooth, sounds like an airplane taking off, even under minimal load.

I've seen some recommend the MSI windforce gtx 760 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DGM8B6O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I seem to remember people saying that the hsf on this card is too wide and will bump with the side panel.

cheers,
imo
 
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imode said:
Does anyone have any recommendations for a quiet GPU around $250-ish (thinking something like a gtx 660 or 760). I know blower style tend to be on the louder side, so I don't mind non-reference designs.
imo
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I have a MSi 760. Really quiet and sufficient cooling in the M1 (idle 27-29°C gaming load 45-50°C)

The Gigabyte Windfore you linked should also fit, but it is bit longer.
 
Aibohphobia said:
Flipping the inlet on the Seasonic is going to be extremely difficult.

You can see in the pics here: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=326 that the inlet is soldered to a small PCB along with the power switch and some other stuff.
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Thanks for your input! I also asked on jonnyguru and Oklahoma Wolf said "In this unit that would not be a trivial undertaking".

I think that means I need to figure out something other than that, lol.
 
Zombeezy said:
Thanks for your input! I also asked on jonnyguru and Oklahoma Wolf said "In this unit that would not be a trivial undertaking".

I think that means I need to figure out something other than that, lol.
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I did that on a ST45SF-G to move the power plug away from the PSU itself.

Desolder the power socket (bottom right)


Solder new wires for the live, neutral and ground


Crimp pins onto the wires, insert into some spare connectors


Place in tiny box to be mounted in more convenient corner of the case


See on first picture again for the new socket, which includes fuse and on/off switch.
 
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