NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

pmwalk said:
It should. I have an EK CoolStream PE, which is 38mm, with 25mm fans and theres still a fair bit of clearance before the PSU (about another 25mm) for fittings/tubing/cables.
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Not even 25mm I also have a pe theres more like 15mm could u post some pics of your loop layout.
 
AFD said:
At least your temps didn't increase from adding the panels since your 1st test.. though I kinda doubt 5 minutes would've been long enough to make a difference there.

Think Haswell is supposed to run hotter than Ivy Bridge (84W TDP on the 4770k vs 77W on the 3770k), but 85C still seems a little much for the C14.


Here's some C14 testing on a 130W i7-950 (Prime large FFTs for 15-min, using both fans running at 100%)..

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Noctua/NH-C14/6.html
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The temps that the reviewer is able to get seem crazy low. An OC i7 at full load only getting up to 72C with the Intel heatsink? That's unrealistic, right?

Whatever the case, I reseated the heatsink a third time. Set my OC to 4.2GHz with voltage manual locked to 1.185V. Ran Prime95 (large fft) and Furmark for 15 minutes. Max CPU temp 83C, max GPU temp 70C. Still unsatisfied with my CPU temps but at least the temps didn't shoot up within the first couple of minutes.
 
I finaly got my built This case is awesome. I will take some pictures later, but here are my specs.

gigabyte z87n wifi
intel 4770k
2x8 gb crucial vlp
gforce gtx480
silverstone sfx 450 ps
Asetek 92 mm aio water cooler with 2 noctura fans

I really don't recommend the gtx 480 it is way to hot for this case.
the Asetek works pretty well but don't expect big over clocks with it. After 20 minutes of the latest prime 95 I hit 90c, I will be doing some more tests later but I really like being able to mount the cooler in the usual spot above the io .

Two other things to note, on the gigabyte z87n wifi the usb3 header is on the back of the board so the connector wont fit under the radiator, so i ordered a low profile extension, I also needed to cut parts of the back plate up to avoid hitting parts on the back of the motherboard.

Thanks wahaha360 and Necere and anyone else involved.

rody
 
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thefivetheory said:
Was it Computer Upgrade King? The exact same thing happened to me, same wrong drive. They emailed me in response to feedback I left, which I appreciate, and it sounds like a big mixup in their warehouse. Definitely frustrating, but at least the return/refund through Amazon is painless...
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Yea, thats them.
Contacted Amazon , going to get a refund, and just got to send it back now.
I am a very calm and patient guy, and hate giving bad feedback, but gotta do, what I gotta do.
 
anyone find any good fan controller there is only cpu and fan 1 on asrock itx =(

how many fans can a single mother board fan out power?

thinking about using splitters. cpu -> h220 pump and two intake fans for rad. fan 1 out to two bottom intake fan and one rear intake fan
 
mwayne5 said:
Just an update for anyone considering the Noctua NH-U9B SE2 cooler. On an i7 4770k my idle temps around around 26C and my load temps on BF4 usually stay below or around 70C. This is with no intake fans in the case. Room temp is around 20C (68F)

832ca1b7_20140104_141148.jpeg
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What motherboard is that?
 
Skott said:
I thought his temps were way off. Glad you posted how your H60 is performing. I been trying to decide between a H60 and air hsf. Which mobo you using?
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I'm using Asrocks Z87E-ITX mobo, G.Skill 16GB DDR3 2400, I7 4770k, Corsair H60, 3x COUGAR 120mm 1200RPM 64.4CFM 16.6dBA fans(replacing the corsair fan with one of these), EVGA 680 GTX 4GB, 512 GB SSD, Blue-ray burner, Silverstone 450W. Room temp around 70F.
 
balance101 said:
anyone find any good fan controller there is only cpu and fan 1 on asrock itx =(

how many fans can a single mother board fan out power?

thinking about using splitters. cpu -> h220 pump and two intake fans for rad. fan 1 out to two bottom intake fan and one rear intake fan
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http://www.swiftech.com/8-waypwmsplitter-sata.aspx is the one i used. Works great becuase I didn't have to use any extra power cables from the power supply. The sata cable had 3 plugs on it, 1 for the SSD, 1 for the Blue Ray Burner, and 1 for the fan splitter. :)
 
OverRated said:
Not even 25mm I also have a pe theres more like 15mm could u post some pics of your loop layout.
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I should have some pictures up tomorrow night. I haven't taken them yet because I'm replacing the cables with the pp05-e that I just got in.

balance101 said:
anyone find any good fan controller there is only cpu and fan 1 on asrock itx =(

how many fans can a single mother board fan out power?

thinking about using splitters. cpu -> h220 pump and two intake fans for rad. fan 1 out to two bottom intake fan and one rear intake fan
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I used this one: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...eobus_Speed_Controller_PT-FN03.html?tl=g47c17

Fits in the 3rd expansion slot and lets you control 4 fans (for some reason the description only says 3).
 
Andorski said:
The temps that the reviewer is able to get seem crazy low. An OC i7 at full load only getting up to 72C with the Intel heatsink? That's unrealistic, right?

Whatever the case, I reseated the heatsink a third time. Set my OC to 4.2GHz with voltage manual locked to 1.185V. Ran Prime95 (large fft) and Furmark for 15 minutes. Max CPU temp 83C, max GPU temp 70C. Still unsatisfied with my CPU temps but at least the temps didn't shoot up within the first couple of minutes.
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Yeah, his temps do seem awfully low (temp differences seem fairly reasonable though). I'm sure the 2x 140mm fans on the C14 in a big case help too.

4770k doesn't even start throttling until it hits 105C. If I can keep my 4770k w/C12 around 70 to 80C at load (stock) I'll be ecstatic.

If you're now hitting 83C at 4.2GHz, your stock temps should've noticeably improved, correct?

And just wondering, are you using the Noctua TIM? Small drop in the middle or spreading? For some reason, I've been debating between PK1 & MX4 instead.. probably doesn't matter that much, I guess.
 
Heres a picture of the EK normal sized PCB full cover water block in the M1 for people that questioned the space.





MikeTheTiger said:
I've been waiting for this block to come out and I saw it last. Ight on EK's twitter. The Bitspower one has been out for a little while. This block was part of my prodigy build plans.
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How do you think adding the heat from the power board will go thats seeing we can only use 240mm RADs im already going to watercool my GPU to do you think there will be to much heat going into the loop?
 
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OverRated said:
Heres a picture of the EK normal sized PCB full cover water block in the M1 for people that questioned the space.

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Nice!! Gives me an idea how my 770 EKWB will fit.



OverRated said:
How do you think adding the heat from the power board will go thats seeing we can only use 240mm RADs im already going to watercool my GPU to do you think there will be to much heat going into the loop?
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I've never done a custom loop before, but my thinking is that the liquid will be passing through quick enough that it won't sit in the waterblocks all that long. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
MikeTheTiger said:
I've never done a custom loop before, but my thinking is that the liquid will be passing through quick enough that it won't sit in the waterblocks all that long. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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This is my 1st loop as well not sure what pump to get and where to put it im thinking down the bottom but not sure how to run the tubing though.
 
MikeTheTiger said:
I'm probably going with the Apogee.
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I have that block here and i really dont like how it sit on the impact its only goes on one way with out pushing up on the power PCB, Also with think rads like mine 38mm there is no real way to run the tubing directly.


Here my layout for the EK impact block what do you think ?

HAHA FORGOT THE RAD LOL UPDATED

Test.png


this will be the pump ill use.

ddcpwm_1_800.jpg


Any one see any problem running it like this?
 
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pmwalk said:
I had the same problem when I first turned mine on, and I have the same components (except 16GB of the Ballistix Sport). I'd used my motherboard previously, so it was fixed when I cleared CMOS via the pin push on the I/O panel of the mb. I'd try that (since it's easy to do), and reseat the RAM if that doesn't work.
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Unfortunately clearing the CMOS didn't work. :(

I'll reseat the RAM if not sometime by this weekend, then I'll def. do it when I get the PP05-E cables in and have to pull the build apart to replace them.

Thanks for the suggestion though.
 
Just order the Impact block and the pump should have it some time next week along with my Res :) .
 
Just got this email form Amazon regarding the Silverstone PP05-E Flat Flexible Short Cable Set:

We now have delivery date(s) for the order you placed on January 06, 2014 (Order# blah):

"Silverstone Tek Flat Flexible Short Cable Set for Modular PSUs (PP05-E)"
Estimated arrival date: January 29, 2014 - February 07, 2014
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For all those still looking for a cooler it looks like Newegg has 15% off most of their air coolers including all the Noctuas they stock. Also the C12-se14 fits the z87e-itx nicely.
 
Hey guys. I am building a loop for the first time so I need lots of advice. I'll probably start a new thread because this one is getting ginormous and it gets kind of hard to get the info you want out of it.

Anyway, I'm going with the apogee drive ii. What rad is recommended? Is it feasable to use a rad with built in reservoir? I'm not keen on installing an external reservoir unless it makes things simpler and looks amazing of course.

Then what tubing size should I use? And what about fittings? I would like quick disconnects for the GPU, anyone recommends against it?

We should have a seperate ncase m1 watercooling thread for nobies as I'm sure quite a lot of people have the same questions as me.
 
Ribozyme said:
Hey guys. I am building a loop for the first time so I need lots of advice. I'll probably start a new thread because this one is getting ginormous and it gets kind of hard to get the info you want out of it.

Anyway, I'm going with the apogee drive ii. What rad is recommended? Is it feasable to use a rad with built in reservoir? I'm not keen on installing an external reservoir unless it makes things simpler and looks amazing of course.

Then what tubing size should I use? And what about fittings? I would like quick disconnects for the GPU, anyone recommends against it?

We should have a seperate ncase m1 watercooling thread for nobies as I'm sure quite a lot of people have the same questions as me.
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I use a EK Coolstream PE 240mm Radiator any think thicker will hit the power plug the PE pushes into it a little, You can use rads with a built in res but most people go with the external because it easier to fill up.

The apogee drive ii is good for most boards but can be a pain like i found out using it on my Impact the main reason was because how far it stuck out with its fittings the H220 is a bit smaller so it helps.

There wont be any room at all for quick disconnects fittings, I went with a thin tube 3/8"ID x 1/2" OD any think bigger and you cant use Compression Fitting on the GPU block because they hit the bottom of the RAD.
 
EricZBA said:
Just got this email form Amazon regarding the Silverstone PP05-E Flat Flexible Short Cable Set:
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I got a similar email but mine is slated from Jan 29 - Feb 6.
This seems a little excessive, don't you think?

Is Silverstone just not making these? Either that or they depleted inventory sending out with the Steam boxes or reviewers of the new Raven ITX case.
 
OverRated said:
I use a EK Coolstream PE 240mm Radiator any think thicker will hit the power plug the PE pushes into it a little, You can use rads with a built in res but most people go with the external because it easier to fill up.

The apogee drive ii is good for most boards but can be a pain like i found out using it on my Impact the main reason was because how far it stuck out with its fittings the H220 is a bit smaller so it helps.

There wont be any room at all for quick disconnects fittings, I went with a thin tube 3/8"ID x 1/2" OD any think bigger and you cant use Compression Fitting on the GPU block because they hit the bottom of the RAD.
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Does this rad has a built in reservoir? I like its price
,50euro. If it doesn't have a res built in, what external res do you use? I see people talk about a costum res made for the M1? Are there similar ones commercially available?

So tubing size should be 1/8 of an inch smaller than the fittings they'll go over? Do i need clamps to hold them tight or does it depend on fittings?

So no quick disconnects possible? Bummer.
 
Ribozyme said:
Does this rad has a built in reservoir? I like its price
,50euro. If it doesn't have a res built in, what external res do you use? I see people talk about a costum res made for the M1? Are there similar ones commercially available?

So tubing size should be 1/8 of an inch smaller than the fittings they'll go over? Do i need clamps to hold them tight or does it depend on fittings?

So no quick disconnects possible? Bummer.
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No it doesn't sorry to say, I'm also going with the M1 NCase Reservoir i should get it next week you can order then so there no hard to get hold of, I have seen people uses others but they stick out to far for my liking there round type ones.

I used 13/10 3/8" ID 1/2" OD Compression Fitting, If your using barb fittings yes i would grab clamps for peace of mind.

The only place you would be able to use quick disconnects would be ether from or to the RAD depending how much tubing you leave and even then they mite push up on things and just get in the way as there large.
 
Iam918 said:
Unfortunately clearing the CMOS didn't work. :(

I'll reseat the RAM if not sometime by this weekend, then I'll def. do it when I get the PP05-E cables in and have to pull the build apart to replace them.

Thanks for the suggestion though.
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Just a heads up, I too used the ASUS Z87-Deluxe and 16 gigs of the Crucial Ballistix LP 1.35v Ram. When I first booted after building the rig did one power cycle for memory testing then recognized it right off the bat. Didn't have to clear CMOS or anything.

Hopefully re-seating works for you! I hope you didn't get any bad sticks... :(
 
AFD said:
Yeah, his temps do seem awfully low (temp differences seem fairly reasonable though). I'm sure the 2x 140mm fans on the C14 in a big case help too.

4770k doesn't even start throttling until it hits 105C. If I can keep my 4770k w/C12 around 70 to 80C at load (stock) I'll be ecstatic.

If you're now hitting 83C at 4.2GHz, your stock temps should've noticeably improved, correct?

And just wondering, are you using the Noctua TIM? Small drop in the middle or spreading? For some reason, I've been debating between PK1 & MX4 instead.. probably doesn't matter that much, I guess.
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I do the "grain of rice" method with the TIM that Noctua supplies. Having done three reseatings and looking at how the thermal paste is spread when I take off the heatsink, I am confident that I'm having good contact with the CPU every time I install it.

What I did notice though is that the space between the heatsink fins and the mobo gets really hot. The 120mm fan can't move air past the heatsink, so the dead air warms up the back side of the case. So I might try to replace the fans for ones with better static pressure and see what changes.
 
Would there be an advantage/disadvantage to make the air through a 240mm rad get pushed or pulled outside the case instead of inwards? So no hot air enters the case.
 
Got the build together, LOVE it. However my, admittedly aging, 5850, decided to begin squealing like a stuck pig and I'm pretty sure it's gone now. So hurrah for integrated graphics keeping me at least running as a workstation.
 
Ribozyme said:
Would there be an advantage/disadvantage to make the air through a 240mm rad get pushed or pulled outside the case instead of inwards? So no hot air enters the case.
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The negative pressure would cause air and dust to get sucked in from the top. Also, if warm air is being generated between the mobo and the rad/fans, your potential to cool your CPU would drop.
 
Shockwave818 said:
What motherboard is that?
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ASRock H87M itx. I don't OC. The socket placement is a little higher than what's on the z87e, so I had to opt for this cooler as the larger Noctua coolers would interfere with the top panel.

Edit: For anyone who's wondering why I'm running an unlocked CPU on a motherboard that cannot take advantage of a K variant CPU, it's because the 4770K was available to me through Intel's Retail Edge Program for $100 USD. If I didn't have that available to me, I would probably purchase a non-K variant CPU lol
 
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Andorski said:
What I did notice though is that the space between the heatsink fins and the mobo gets really hot. The 120mm fan can't move air past the heatsink, so the dead air warms up the back side of the case. So I might try to replace the fans for ones with better static pressure and see what changes.
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Good idea.. maybe try an F12 at the rear side? Or see if you can fit another fan under the C14 to help pull the air through the heatsink and down to the motherboard. Might also be able to try fitting the original 140mm fan instead of the 2x 120 fans and see if that makes any difference.

jtiger102 said:
I got a similar email but mine is slated from Jan 29 - Feb 6.
This seems a little excessive, don't you think?

Is Silverstone just not making these?
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It's weird.. every other day, Newegg lists the new PP05-E cables as "discontinued" then changes it back to "unavailable". Silverstone must be having some weird supply chain issue getting these to retailers.. or maybe they're only sending them out 1 at time, lol.

Don't think Silverstone anticipated the influx of buyers needing SFX PSUs and cable kits for the M1. Since US delivery, Amazon was selling 20+ ST45SF-G units each week, and they've been sold-out much longer this last time. Don't think the Steamboxes and Raven ITX are really effecting this issue.. yet.
 
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