Naked Pics! Look Inside! Wow! (56K Beware)

tsuehpsyde

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Oct 22, 2004
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So, I decided to take the lid off of my Opteron after much debate (and teeth chattering). Boredom gets the best of us. I've went to water since I got her (this is robberbaron's Opteron, so this is thee very first, official OpterOWN). Due to her history, I woulda felt like an ass had I killed it....but I needed more performance and dammit, I was finding it someway. After reading tons and tons and tons about it (and Ozzimark making fun of me), I decided to put my nuts on the table and go for it. First thing was first, as I had never checked the block, I wanted to see how my first waterblock spread was, to see if my temps were as good as they could be on the IHS.

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Quite a solid spread, if I do say so myself. I did dick around with it alot, so I was rather surprised. Obviously, I was getting no tempature gains there, so it was off to cut somethin'!

In order to remove your IHS, you have to slide something between the PCB of your processor and the IHS, which you do NOT have alot of room to go between. Over at XS, they recommended a double-sided razor, the type used in like the 50's or something. They were like $5 for a pack of 15 at rite-aid, so I picked those up and a pack of regular razors for myself. Pretty sad when ur PC has more razors for itself than you do. Since there are 2 sides to it, I had to cover up the one side so I could push on it without, you know, reaching into the BONE. Here's a pic of my tool after some extensive use in the field...she suffered a bend while pushing somehow, don't ask.

DSC00626.sized.jpg


So I'm hackin away at this thing while it rests ever so gently on the anti-static foam it came with (and seriously, that thing is a beast...I was pressin like hell on the bottom, and not a pin ever moved, A+ AMD!), and I couldn't get that bastard to pop off! I was gettin' pretty bent outta shape about it, but I just kept at it. Probably put a good half hour into her. Here's my blade violating the poor Opteron:

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All 4 sides. :D After debating with CCU about what to do (his suggestion: "Grow some balls and cut deeper!"), I went ahead and started cutting maybe a millimeter or less more in each side....scared as hell I was gonna go thru and break off like, everything underneath. After checking all 4 sides, I found a side that was a little stiffer than the others. After a little work...success!

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I was a little nervous, considering i saw a strand of copper on the top. :eek: But it turned out to be a piece from the IHS itself and it blew right off (thank Christ, I almost cried when I saw it). Now, since I'm using a water block with a nice, big, conductive copper block, we wanna keep from accidently shorting out the transistors on top, so that's where our electrical tape comes into play. Enter processor insulation:

DSC00644.sized.jpg


There she is, with a nice thin coat of AS5. I mounted her up and temps were like 49C in the BIOS, but after some retention tweaking, she went down to 38C....went into windows and she was loading up to like 50C. :mad: Mind you, Prime instantly failed with temps that high. Bad mount, obviously. So I rip her off to see what's going on.

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Clearly a bad mount. Either it was uneven or too much AS5 or something. After some debate, I went ahead and tried out the Ceramique I had just bought with it's dubious "line across the core" method. Needless to say, I am loading in Windows between 31-32C, and I'm loving every minute of it! It's fighting for tempature dominace with my PWMIC, which is well worth the hour or two's worth of work put into it (now mind you, I'm afraid to touch it since bare cores are fragile and re-mounting that thing seems like the polar oppisite of "fun").

Now, on to 3GHz+ with hella low temps. :)

Full Folding Ahead!

 

{NcsO}ReichstaG

[H]ard|Gawd
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Aug 13, 2004
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1,768
Nice job!
But the idle temps in Windows were only 31-32C or was it load temps? Was that at stock or at 3Ghz? Voltage?
 

tsuehpsyde

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Oct 22, 2004
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{NcsO}ReichstaG said:
Nice job!
But the idle temps in Windows were only 31-32C or was it load temps? Was that at stock or at 3Ghz? Voltage?

No, those are load temps. :p Load temps are 31-32C with 1.41v and 2.95GHz on the core. Idle is 26-27C.

Full Folding Ahead!

 

Unknown-One

[H]F Junkie
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Mar 5, 2005
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8,905
if you were to do this with say, the stock heatsink, would it need adjustment to make contact with the core?
 

Elysian

Gawd
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Aug 27, 2005
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590
what kind of water block is that? it looks like a Swiftech MCW-6000 or 6002, but its got that one side milled down so i'm not sure... but the brazing etc makes me thing swiftech...
 

tsuehpsyde

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Elysian said:
what kind of water block is that? it looks like a Swiftech MCW-6000 or 6002, but its got that one side milled down so i'm not sure... but the brazing etc makes me thing swiftech...

Swiftech MCW-6002
 

Elysian

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tsuehpsyde said:
Swiftech MCW-6002
did you machine that notch out for the CAM yourself? i don't have the tools to do that for mine, so when i unlidded my x2, sanding down the cam wasn't enough :(
 

robberbaron

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You're a great guy, Tsueh, and I'm very thankful that it's you that has carnal knowledge of that CPU and some schmo.
 

tsuehpsyde

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Elysian said:
did you machine that notch out for the CAM yourself? i don't have the tools to do that for mine, so when i unlidded my x2, sanding down the cam wasn't enough :(

I'm not quite sure I follow. My block came with the lip already there to go over the socket, althought it wasn't put to use until now. The label is missing because while cleaning the block, some of it came off and it looked like crap, so I just wiped her down good and removed the entire thing. I did no machine work to the block, and I don't believe the guy before me did either. Although he did paint it black, and did a rather crappy job of it. :p It chips off with relative ease, and since he painted the barbs, I fear a few pieces might be in my loop. Looking at the loop though, I've yet to see anything in there. I might bleed out my loop in exchange for Zerex though, and if I do I'll probably chip the paint off around the barbs to ensure I don't have the problem again.

Full Folding Ahead!

 

Aaron_ATX

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Oct 15, 2003
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1,804
Congrats on not breaking it. I popped the top on my buddies venice and installed his waterblock without the electrical tape and it worked fine...but the next time I have to take it off I believe i'll electrical tape it up like you have.

I've removed a few a64 heatspreaders now and I find it easiest to start at the corners first when cutting. Takes about 2-3 minutes once you get good at it. Damn nerve-wracking the first time tho
 

Groover500

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Jun 26, 2003
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66
CCUABIDExORxDIE said:
DAMN TSUE! those are some GOOD ASS TEMPS! now you best pull of 3ghz. good job buddy. :D :D

While you're at it - clean those fingernails! :D

Just kidding, good stuff
 

Borgschulze

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Feb 28, 2005
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tsuehpsyde said:
I was a little nervous, considering i saw a strand of copper on the top. :eek:
Pussy.

You should see my Sempron, it had tons of copper showing through the top, and it WAS the PGA that was cut into.
 

el rolio

2[H]4U
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
2,495
yea since i have one of the early opties as eclipse knows... i keep thinking about doing this for hte temps.... cuz it just seems to be too high idle and load in comparison to this other 148 i tried out... late late step. but really, whats the temp DIFFERENCE?
 

tsuehpsyde

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Oct 22, 2004
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Groover500 said:
While you're at it - clean those fingernails! :D

Just kidding, good stuff

I knew someone was gonna give me flak for that. :p I was cleaning earlier that night, so that's what I get. Had I been going out in public or something, perhaps a nail cleaning woulda been in order.

And as for the temp difference, it's about 7C diff on load, and maybe 3-4C on idle. This morning it's 33C after I turned the heat back up, and the PWM IC is still the same temp as it, so she's still a lover of low ambient temps. 65F = 32C load, 70F = 34C load. And before 65F = 38C load and 70F = 40C load. Of course all the load temps waver a bit up and down, but those are what they hold the most at.

Full Folding Ahead!

 

Ruiner

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Aug 22, 2000
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3,070
The 2 point mounting used by AMD boards is tricky with bare cores, especially with large blocks. The old socket A 4 hole rigs took more work but were more consistent.
 

Elysian

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Aug 27, 2005
Messages
590
tsuehpsyde said:
I'm not quite sure I follow. My block came with the lip already there to go over the socket, althought it wasn't put to use until now. The label is missing because while cleaning the block, some of it came off and it looked like crap, so I just wiped her down good and removed the entire thing. I did no machine work to the block, and I don't believe the guy before me did either. Although he did paint it black, and did a rather crappy job of it. :p It chips off with relative ease, and since he painted the barbs, I fear a few pieces might be in my loop. Looking at the loop though, I've yet to see anything in there. I might bleed out my loop in exchange for Zerex though, and if I do I'll probably chip the paint off around the barbs to ensure I don't have the problem again.

Full Folding Ahead!

really? my 6000 is completely flat, and from all i've ever been able to gather the only difference between the 6000 and 6002 is tubing size...
 

tsuehpsyde

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Oct 22, 2004
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Elysian said:
really? my 6000 is completely flat, and from all i've ever been able to gather the only difference between the 6000 and 6002 is tubing size...

Perhaps it's a revision difference? But I definately have a lip on mine, and it came from the factory that way (if you look, you can see the outline from where the label was on the lip), so there was no custom fab work on this block. Also, remember you can't use the stock retention bracket anymore if you're mounting without a core on top (the top part, the bottom part is still used to screw the block into).

Full Folding Ahead!

 

Elysian

Gawd
Joined
Aug 27, 2005
Messages
590
tsuehpsyde said:
Perhaps it's a revision difference? But I definately have a lip on mine, and it came from the factory that way (if you look, you can see the outline from where the label was on the lip), so there was no custom fab work on this block. Also, remember you can't use the stock retention bracket anymore if you're mounting without a core on top (the top part, the bottom part is still used to screw the block into).

Full Folding Ahead!

oh i know...
 

pduan87

[H]ard|Gawd
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Dec 31, 2001
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Oh shit, pump up some more voltage, and see if it'll hit 3.3 or something... that would be insane.
 

(cf)Eclipse

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Feb 18, 2003
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nah, scaling isn't that nice. i doubt he can break 3.2ghz without a hefty amount of voltage, or much cooler temps :D
 

tsuehpsyde

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pduan87 said:
Oh shit, pump up some more voltage, and see if it'll hit 3.3 or something... that would be insane.

3.2GHz was the wall I was runnin' into. 3.2GHz is more than benchable, but I had 1.55v * 104% and 3.2GHz still failed prime95 damn nearly instantly, compared to this @ 1.5v * 104% (1.56v). I can probably prime 3.16GHz without issue, and maybe 3.17, but I wanted to leave headroom to make sure she was stable. Also, if temps were lower, she might do better...it seems around or after 40C, the chip gets cranky. I need her to fold to try her damnest to catch up in the [H]ard|Bowl, so I figured an hour+ prime stable was good enough for now. I'll 48 hour her next chance I get....my next chore is to get the memory tweaked, because right now it's kinda sittin there in blah territory. Stable for sure, but blah none the less.

Full Folding Ahead!

 

el rolio

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uh yea, those 2 screenshots above? i think thats all that is needed.....

we are a GO, repeat, a GO on the stripping of my opterOWN 146 CABNE this weekend team!
 

thunderstruck!

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Nice 144, how many millimeters did you leave off when you taped up the blade? It sounded like you taped off too much. IIRC it should be 3mm of blade?
 

tsuehpsyde

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thunderstruck! said:
Nice 144, how many millimeters did you leave off when you taped up the blade? It sounded like you taped off too much. IIRC it should be 3mm of blade?

Yes, that's 3mm exposed. I measured it off correctly, probably need a smidge above 3mm. Either that, or I needed to put more of the 3mm into the processor...was pretty timid about it, seeing as how cherry it is, and my inability to replace it.

Full Folding Ahead!

 

willie92

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Mar 29, 2005
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Not to throw stones--especially at someone with the brass ones to chop up an O like that--but wasn't that a bit too much of the AS5 (in both first two cases)?
 

tsuehpsyde

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willie92 said:
Not to throw stones--especially at someone with the brass ones to chop up an O like that--but wasn't that a bit too much of the AS5 (in both first two cases)?

The first spread on the block was fine, imo. I went exactly to all edges. The 2nd one was too thick, or the block was tightened down unevenly (biggest bitch of mounting on a bare core), hense why one half of the spread is damn near non-existant, and one is thick. And I diddn't "slather" it on either, I used a credit card to evenly spread it out over the top as thin as possible....never had much luck with the plastic bag method.

Full Folding Ahead!

 

streetkid

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Sep 17, 2003
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I want to strip my a64 now, though I don't think i'd get as much benefit. But while i'm doing that I can put some cereamique on my chipset, hmmm.

wanna post some links to the guides/writeups you've read?
 

tsuehpsyde

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mdameron said:
Tsue, very nice!

Here's a link just for an FYI http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=79509&highlight=vdimm+vcore+kill

I noticed on your screenies that you're running your vdimm at 3.4, and vcore at 1.5ish. Check this thread out, I don't want you to kill your opty :D

Yes, I'm quite aware of the vCore/vDimm ratio. That's a vCORE of 1.56v with a vDIMM of 3.2v (go check again). I'm far within' the recommended spec. I can use 3.6v with these settings without much worrying.

As for a where to see how to do it, go read this entire thread (that's what I did) and follow any links provided in the thread. If you're going to hack up your processor, you might as well take the time to know what ur doing...this isn't exactly a project you go "rushing" into.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=59068

Full Folding Ahead!

 

Team Obi Juan

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tsuehpsyde said:
Yes, I'm quite aware of the vCore/vDimm ratio. That's a vCORE of 1.56v with a vDIMM of 3.2v (go check again). I'm far within' the recommended spec. I can use 3.6v with these settings without much worrying.

As for a where to see how to do it, go read this entire thread (that's what I did) and follow any links provided in the thread. If you're going to hack up your processor, you might as well take the time to know what ur doing...this isn't exactly a project you go "rushing" into.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=59068

Full Folding Ahead!



Good, I didn't analyze your screenies too much, I just wanted to bring that to your attention in case you HADN'T heard of that, didn't want you to accidentally kill your nice opterpwn. Nice work!
 

Imitation

2[H]4U
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Jun 18, 2004
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2,536
I think the reason you guys have different 6000 waterblocks is cause the socket A version has that notch on it, while the A64 version is completely flat. I ran into that issue when i was looking to buy one of those blocks, and then upgrade to A64 later from socket A. But then the apex kits came out and I as ok. :)
 
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Imitation said:
I think the reason you guys have different 6000 waterblocks is cause the socket A version has that notch on it, while the A64 version is completely flat. I ran into that issue when i was looking to buy one of those blocks, and then upgrade to A64 later from socket A. But then the apex kits came out and I as ok. :)

a warning for those of you who are going to go Topless with an Apogee block. dont do it. or buy a new block. the Apogee sucks bigtime if you dont have an IHS.
 

el rolio

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Jul 8, 2004
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popped my top. yay. was pretty easy and it didnt take too long. about the length of the woods climatic scene from the movie assault on precinct 13. ha. anyhoo cuz i was watchin it in ma room i was holding the chip + foam pad in my hand for hte last few passes of the blade before i lifted the ihs. what ended up happenin is like the 3 corner pins on all 4 corners got bent a bit.

so i spent the entire credits with a fresh blade (used about 4 on the IHS) trying to actualy SEE the bent pins and gently straightening them.

however, i got a call to meet a fren out now so im gonna put this fun on pause till the morning. took pics, but i wanna take daylight pics of the clean IHS aka keychain and the cpu.
 
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