My first shoot. More questions, CC welcome.

jbrown7815

Limp Gawd
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
206
I just bought my camera yesterday. Rebel XT, using 28-105mm lens.


First time trying to take real pics.

Went to a local softball field and shot a couple teams.

One team was from a local newspaper, and wants me to give them some pictures, along with the umpire.


:D

I shot in Raw, how can I convert all these at once, and put a watermark on them?

One pic I took, did some very basic PP to it...

It wasn't a RAW though.
2532286859_d6440a738b_o.jpg
 
A very quick fiddle with it.

Looks a bit underexposed, so I bumped up the brightness/contrast a bit. Also did some curves adjustment to bring out the dark underexposed areas, and added a bit of blur to make it appear a bit smoother/have less noise.

Yes, her shirt got blown out (which is probably also why the camera exposed on the darker side), but it gives you an idea.

 
Great shots!!

Thanks :)

It's alot of fun.


I wish I knew what ISO and Shutter Speed to use though

maybe this will help:
To better understand the effect of ISO on exposure, think of the ISO as a worker bee. If my camera is set for ISO 100, I have, in effect, 100 worker bees; and if your camera is set for ISO 200, you have 200 worker bees. The job of these worker bees is to gather the light that comes through the lens and make an image. If both of us set our lenses at the same aperture of f/5.6-meaning that the same volume of light will be coming through our lenses-who will record the image the quickest, you or me? You will, since you have twice as many worker bees at ISO 200 then I do at ISO 100.
How does this relate to shutter speed? Let’s assume the photo in question is of a lone flower taken on an overcast day. Remember that your camera is set to ISO 200 and mine to ISO 100, both with an aperture of f/5.6. So, when you adjust your shutter speed for a correct exposure, 1/250 sec. is indicated as “correct,” but when I adjust my shutter speed for a correct exposure, 1/125 sec.-a longer exposure-is indicated. This is because your 200 worker bees need only half as much time as my 100 worker bees to make the image.
from "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. i recommend that you pick it up. it's cheap, and it's a great read. you can learn a lot from it.
 
Great shots!!



maybe this will help:

from "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. i recommend that you pick it up. it's cheap, and it's a great read. you can learn a lot from it.

Yeah you're not the first to tell me this.


I am definitely gonna get this book :)
 
I like how you went out and practiced. :) That's the only way to get better.

I fixed the girls' pic for you. Be sure to check the histogram in these kind of shots when things are both dark and light. Generally speaking try and make the majority of it in the middle in such a case.

girlfixedtr9.jpg
 
I still have trouble with manual settings sometimes. I have found John Hedgecoe's books useful.

Sometimes when I go out to shoot, I use the auto mode for a few pictures to gather information on the current light condition, shadows, etc... I go back and look at the aperture and shutter speeds to get an starting point. From there, I can make tweaks and adjustments as necessary to get the shot I want. Of course, this works a little better with inanimate objects.

I have heard this rule for shutter speed for motion: if you are stationary and the subject is moving, you double the shutter to stop the subject's motion. If both you and the subject are moving, you have to triple the shutter. Can anyone confirm?
 
There's no reason to use manual for most situations. It's good for studio and flash work.

As for shutter speed, what's enough depends on the subject's speed and your intended effect.
 
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