my deep black Silverstone with "power rails"

i'm doing some smaller updates on it right now, like improved tube routing and bigger air intake for the radiator (no, not those from K&N :D )


netz1.jpg

netz2.jpg



here a two pics of a modded car<->notebook psu that i hooked up on the rheobus to have the fans run at 15volts
it goes all the way up to 24volts, but that would kill the fans ;)

it works fine, as long as you only replace the 12v lines and keep the 5v for the rheobus - it needs the 5v for the more "fragile" electronics.
 
I approve of this mod.

*thumbs up*

Its a clean case mod, not too ricey, but very sleek. Creative and well thought out. And and and, another thumbs up for using the DDC with the res top!
 
ok, so here's the small update, just some minor flaws that bothered me:

at first, the front grill is very restrictive (and yes, i took the perforated plate out ;) )

but i didn't want to have big holes or visible intakes on my project, so i cut an opening into the floor. that way, the fans can suck air much more easily into the case.

airintake.jpg



furthermore i wanted to extend the control range of the rheobus. so i took a psu for notebooks which takes 12v (for cars, boats etc) and soldered some pc-molex connectors to it.
now i can crank the voltage up to 24v, but that would definitely kill those mosfets on the rheobus.
i have it set to 15v for the moment. (that means i can set the fans to 0-15v instead of 0-12)

psu2.jpg

psu1.jpg

backstage.jpg


unfortunately, the reservoir cap cracked somehow (probably tightened it to much)

i went to the local hardware shop (which are about 1/100 of the size that americans are used to :/ ) and luckily found a brass cap that fitted perfectly. just painted it black to match the case theme:

2deckel1.jpg

2deckel.jpg

deckel_fertig.jpg


on the last picture you can also see the new psu support that i made out of some scrap persplex - just had to do that because the psu was bending the backplate of the case like hell. (usually, the psu rests on the hdd bracket, but thats gone :D )



finally i hat to redo the whole tubing, because i got a very sharp bend when i changed the graficscard (the watercooler is the same, but it sits closer to the northbridge)
but with some trial and error i was able to reduce the amount of elbow fittings by 3 and so increase flow substantially

fertig.jpg



i hope those were the last mods to the case, i just want to play games now and start with my new projekt - which is going to be alot smaller ;)


edit: for those who didnt read the whole thread: to get the whole picture, most of the pics are on page 1 :]
 
Very nice. I love the look of your water cooling set up. I'm personally a fan of the smaller diameter tubing. But doesn't the water NEXT TO OPEN POWER ever scare the shit out of you?! :eek:
 
can you tell me more about your pump/reservoir, does it really look that, did you mod it, what are the specs?
 
Moddest Mouse said:
can you tell me more about your pump/reservoir, does it really look that, did you mod it, what are the specs?

That's the Alphacool DDC+ with the acrylic res-attachment. It's about $40 for the top, and toss that onto a laing DDC or swiftech mcp300, and you have that.
 
So, do you have every psu wire from each voltage level running to each rail? I saw that huge birds nest of wires all taken out and separated. I'm assuming 1 wire would not provide enough stability when loading the rail. If not 1 or all, how many, and how did you figure out what would work?
 
ThirtySixBelow said:
So, do you have every psu wire from each voltage level running to each rail? I saw that huge birds nest of wires all taken out and separated. I'm assuming 1 wire would not provide enough stability when loading the rail. If not 1 or all, how many, and how did you figure out what would work?

He has 4 rails for +12 +5 +3.3 and Ground. And with that thick of a rail it can handle all the current any PSU could pump out.

==>Lazn
 
@36below: for most cars there is a standard that roughly says "for every ampere you'll need 1mm^2 of copper"

so i went with that recommendation, left some room, and ended up with 5mm thickness


(well one inch is 25.4 millimetres - what unit do you use for small sizes?? )


@moddest mouse: well while ive chosen that reservoir, i cant fully recommend it - its a bit to low for powerful pumps. it would work better, if it were twice as high i think.

at least you can use two on top of each other, there are screwholes to connect as many as you want
 
frenzy said:
what unit do you use for small sizes??

Fractions. Most Americans have a good idea what 1/8th of an inch is, but no clue what 26 degrees celsius feels like.

5mm = 1/5th of an inch.. most people would have gotten 1/4 in copper here because it is easier to find and thicker than needed.

But more and more we are also using metric.

==>Lazn
 
@lazn, your absolutly right, i know whats good and bad and all that in celsuis, according to cpu's but i had no idea what that actually was in farenhiet.

@frenzy i dont under stand what you mean, why would you want the reservoir higher?
 
because there are too much turbulences in the reservoir, thus you get a lot of air bubbles in the water circuit which lowers cooling effiency


if you have a high entrance, the pump sucks only water and no air
 
cool - i've always wanted to see the res/top in action...

so is it even feasible to remove the cap to help air out the bubbles or will the liquid splash / purcolate all over the place?

and is that plexi mounting plate sandwiched btwn the plexi top and the pump?
 
frenzy said:
at least you can use two on top of each other, there are screwholes to connect as many as you want
hmmm - probably not since the thread holes don't go all the way through the resevoir.

i don't see how you could connect two resevoirs on top of each other...
 
damn, you're right. the screw holes i mentioned are not for connecting two of them, but to mount the reservoir sideways in a 80mm fan cutout.

bou you could still connect them if you drill 4 holes in the upper one and use long screws :rolleyes:
probably i'll try that, i have a second one lying around :]





and by the way: dont run the pump when the cap is removed ;) or at least, dont turn it off!
due to the pressure the pumps generates, the tubes are stretched by some degree and so the water level in the reservoir is lower - once you turn of the pump all the tubes expand and push the water out of the reservoir.
and please dont ask why i know that. :eek:
 
lol. ouch.
another question about that res - i assume it's perfectly square (mounting holes) so theoretically, can you have the inlet on a different side than the outlet?

might help out in tube management... i just picked up that res yesterday.
I actually cancelled an order for the bullseye reservoir when I saw your build and ordered that alphacool res top.
Then I called back and placed an order for two when you mentioned stacking.
Then I cancelled when i realized the screw holes didn't go all the way through.
Performance-PC's hates me now. lol

easily one of the sickest cases here. I'd love to see that double res mod using the long screws.
 
oh i'm sorry about that - i was 100% sure that they can be stacked :/


and yes you can rotate the inlet in 90 degree steps - this time i'm even more than 100% sure :p


by the way, i'm not sure what kind of bundle you ordered, but the res comes usually without the DDC top (where the outlet is connected to) despite the fact that you need the ddc top to mount the res :/

this is the DDC top:
3313_0.jpg


thats the res:
3324_0.jpg
 
This is bad ass man...

I wish I could figure out which wires I would need to use to do what you did...Amazing...

To think I even thought I was good at cable management...
I feel ashamed of my rig now..=(
 
I didnt read the entire thread but WOW!!!!!! IMPRESSIVE WORK!!

question!

so those tubes are like the combined 12volt rails of the entire PSU ? how is it distributed?
 
Fuck me what a great idea!

and that PCB of the PSU is the ugliest piece of shit ever, christ I made a better one in grade 10 electronics class
 
wow - amazing work!

edit: now that's what I call QUAD-rail technology ;)
 
Pinnacle said:
Fuck me what a great idea!

and that PCB of the PSU is the ugliest piece of shit ever, christ I made a better one in grade 10 electronics class

Ha..you WISH U DID :cool:
 
A lot of thought went into your mod, I love it! The expandibility of your loop with the shut off valves, the lack of tubes crossing each other, and your spray can "rack" (that your heater?) :D.
 
thx everybody :]



yes, it's my heater - cold spraypaint doesnt work that good so i usually heat it up when i want to use it (the pictures have been taken in winter last year)


and yes, it's a tj06 :cool:
 
Very nice job.

I questions for you!

Did you essentially take all the 3.3V cables (aside from those used by your drives) inside your PSU and run them to one of the copper rods, then the same thing for the 5V, 12V, and GND?

Also, what did you do about the PS_ON and POWER_OK lines from the supply?
 
vexeus said:
Did you essentially take all the 3.3V cables (aside from those used by your drives) inside your PSU and run them to one of the copper rods, then the same thing for the 5V, 12V, and GND?



thx and: yes that's it basically.
everything else (power-on, -12v, ...) plus the switches (reset, power, hd-led, power-led) are soldered directly to the back of the pcb
 
I haven't hung around this board in forever, so maybe I've missed some good stuff, but that is one amazing machine. Absolutely beautiful and innovative.
 
thats the hl2 collectors tin. i dont know where to get one today, i bought mine when hl2 was released :)

it comes with hl2, hl2 shirt and hl1,cs:s plus that ww2 shooter.. dunno how its called


btw, the quake 3 and prey tin boxes look much better :D
 
thx everybody :]
yes, it's my heater - cold spraypaint doesnt work that good so i usually heat it up when i want to use it (the pictures have been taken in winter last year)
and yes, it's a tj06 :cool:

I'm buying the PC-V2000BplusII of Lian Li, and want to paint the inside black like you did. But there's a tiny detail, I've never painted anything lol, should i prep it in a special way?(i doubt sanding since it's gonna be bare aluminum inside *suppose*) How do you heat a spray can, and why does it work better?

Also the rail idea is just insane. It looks so perfectly done, did you do it yourself, the plexy rack for it and all? The copper is bent perfectly also... How did you do it?

Does the copper block(with the wire connected to them) are stuck in place or can move freely, because i don't see anything that tightens them. One side has a big hole to make no connection and the other one just fit nicely on it, is it enough to hold them in place?

great mod! but you put even more ideas in my head for when i'll get my case... which isn't good because i dont have anything to make what pops in my mind :(
 
Back
Top