MSI RTX 2080 Ti Sea Hawk X temps

shadow2761

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I cannot find any reviews on this particular card, so I cannot see what other people's temps are with this card.

My card very easily reaches over 65°C even with my very aggressive fan profile. I was thinking this is a bit much for a water cooled card, there are air cooled cards out there with better results than this.

My card also had plastic shrouding that ran deep into the GPU itself which could not be removed, I thought that was odd but have no idea if it is normal for this card.

BTW, I am using it @ 4K and Core clocks @ 2000-2100 MHz.

Does anyone else here have this exact same card, what temps are you guys getting with it? Is mine normal or could there be faults to it.
 

FrgMstr

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I cannot find any reviews on this particular card, so I cannot see what other people's temps are with this card.

My card very easily reaches over 65°C even with my very aggressive fan profile. I was thinking this is a bit much for a water cooled card, there are air cooled cards out there with better results than this.

My card also had plastic shrouding that ran deep into the GPU itself which could not be removed, I thought that was odd but have no idea if it is normal for this card.

BTW, I am using it @ 4K and Core clocks @ 2000-2100 MHz.

Does anyone else here have this exact same card, what temps are you guys getting with it? Is mine normal or could there be faults to it.

Protective plastic removal. Just six screws. Make sure you tuck the wiring back around the blower fan so it does not touch.



MSI Sea Hawk RTX 2080 Overclocking
 

shadow2761

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Well that video was for a RTX 2080 not a 2080 Ti and it didn't show me anything related to temps under stress.
 

RazorWind

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Well that video was for a RTX 2080 not a 2080 Ti and it didn't show me anything related to temps under stress.
Watch again. He talks at one point about how the way the card is assembled gets some of the plastic film stuck in the cooler. I don't think he tested whether this had an effect on operating temperature, but it looks like maybe it could. Your card should be almost identical to his, physically.

65C doesn't seem out of line to me for a CLC-cooled graphics card, though. There's a big difference between a CLC and a full coverage jacket with one or more massive radiators, which is how you see "water cooled" cards getting load temps in the 30s and 40s.
 

FrgMstr

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Well that video was for a RTX 2080 not a 2080 Ti and it didn't show me anything related to temps under stress.
You can see more of my testing for personal system here.

https://hardforum.com/threads/my-first-personal-amd-box-in-a-while.1973942/#post-1044001310

And yes, 65C peak for that card is just fine. It is about what my 2080 runs. It is an AIO, not a custom loop, do not expect custom block and loop temps, which of course would bring you down into the 30s if done right. The 280 Ti at 65C is excellent. Below is what I ran at fully stock settings with Silent fan profile running on my system, no OC.

upload_2019-1-22_12-16-1.png
 

shadow2761

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There is a member on OC forums that said he gets a max of 54-58°C on his Sea Hawk X with a OC.
 

FrgMstr

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There is a member on OC forums that said he gets a max of 54-58°C on his Sea Hawk X with a OC.
Not sure what your point is. Case air flow, ambient temperature, intake temps, lots of things coming into the mix.

What exactly are you trying to figure out?
 

Dayaks

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Is it getting fresh air from outside the case or hot air from within?

My 1080ti AIOs were 59C pulling fresh air from outside the case, which were 250W cards, same as a 2080ti (at stock).

If it’s using hot air from within the case I can imagine temps would be a lot higher.
 

FrgMstr

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There is a member on OC forums that said he gets a max of 54-58°C on his Sea Hawk X with a OC.
Maybe some pics of your build, where it is sitting and the temps around it would help? If you think your temps are too high, likely the internal case temp is too high and needs better ventilation.
 

Brackle

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Is it getting fresh air from outside the case or hot air from within?

My 1080ti AIOs were 59C pulling fresh air from outside the case, which were 250W cards, same as a 2080ti (at stock).

If it’s using hot air from within the case I can imagine temps would be a lot higher.

That is about the same temps i get on my 1080ti on an AIO. That is overclocked as well. I think that 2080ti sounds great if you ask me.
 

shadow2761

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Well before my Sea Hawk X 2080 Ti I had a STRIX OC 1080 Ti @ 2050 MHz and that saw a max of 65°C in the exact same case setup as I have now. All I did was take that card out and pop in the new card. But my Sea Hawk X was 70°C last night with 85% fan!
 

kamikazi

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In Destiny 2 with DSR running at 4K on a 1440P monitor, I'm maxing out around 54C on my 1080Ti connected to an H55 with two Noctua NF-A12x25 fans in push-pull with an OC to 2025-2037MHz, temp dependent. I do have an aggressive fan curve because those fans are so quiet, and they are pulling in outside air. Heaven DX11 looped at 1440p hangs around 50C and speeds bounce from 2037 to 2050MHz.
 

Dayaks

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Well before my Sea Hawk X 2080 Ti I had a STRIX OC 1080 Ti @ 2050 MHz and that saw a max of 65°C in the exact same case setup as I have now. All I did was take that card out and pop in the new card. But my Sea Hawk X was 70°C last night with 85% fan!

You still gave very little detail. Is it pulling fresh air? And like kamikazi said doing a push-pull config can help. I did that on my aios and you can lower temps with less fan speed.

If it’s not pulling fresh air flip the fan around.
 

Armenius

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Well before my Sea Hawk X 2080 Ti I had a STRIX OC 1080 Ti @ 2050 MHz and that saw a max of 65°C in the exact same case setup as I have now. All I did was take that card out and pop in the new card. But my Sea Hawk X was 70°C last night with 85% fan!
What is the ambient temperature of the room your PC is in? Temperature delta is more important to know than absolute temperature. The EVGA hybrid kit was similar to the Sea Hawk, and my Titan X typically performed in gaming with a temp delta of around 30 degrees Celsius with the radiator setup as exhaust with a single fan pushing air out through the radiator.

Other questions:
What is the make and model of your case?
Did you move the radiator around to free up any air bubbles before mounting it in your case?
Did you install the radiator in a position in your case that is above the video card?
Are the tubes on the radiator positioned at the bottom when it's installed in the case?
Is the radiator setup as intake or exhaust?
Are the rest of the case fans setup for positive pressure?
Is the peak temperature you're reporting the result of normal gaming or during benchmarking?
 

shadow2761

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Other questions:
What is the make and model of your case?
Did you move the radiator around to free up any air bubbles before mounting it in your case?
Did you install the radiator in a position in your case that is above the video card?
Are the tubes on the radiator positioned at the bottom when it's installed in the case?
Is the radiator setup as intake or exhaust?
Are the rest of the case fans setup for positive pressure?
Is the peak temperature you're reporting the result of normal gaming or during benchmarking?

1. Case is Corsair 500D RGB
2. Not sure if I moved the rad around?
3. Yes GPU Rad is placed above the card.
4. No, currently the tubes on rad are poistioned on the top not the bottom? Is this going to make a difference?
5. Rad is setup as exhaust atm, using 2 fans for push/pull.
6. Peak temperature I am reporting is during gaming and or benching. Last night it reached 80°C. That's horrible for a AIO card.
 

hititnquitit

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So youve gone from 65c to 80c overnight?
Sounds like its time to improve your overall case cooling beginning with running your rad fans as inlets vs out. Then pull your heatsink and reapply tim. Making sure that all of your thermal pads are positioned correctly. You likely need to add some inlet fans.
What is your case fan configuration currently?
 

RazorWind

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So youve gone from 65c to 80c overnight?
Sounds like its time to improve your overall case cooling beginning with running your rad fans as inlets vs out. Then pull your heatsink and reapply tim. Making sure that all of your thermal pads are positioned correctly. You likely need to add some inlet fans.
What is your case fan configuration currently?
A change like that in the space of just a day or two suggests a failed component. I'd be inclined to suspect maybe the CLC's pump is getting gunked up, or a fan isn't spinning.

I have the same card, but with the full coverage water jacket (they called it the Seahawk EK or something like that), one thing I noticed was that it appeared that the water jacket was installed somewhat haphazardly, as if the card is first manufactured with an air heatsink that is later removed and replaced with the water jacket. Perhaps after some kind of binning process?

Anyway, I mention this because it's possible that the contact of the CLC pump/block thing and the core is imperfect, and it's not conducting heat out of the core very well. I'd check this as well, and reapply with a good thermal grease. My card came with something that resembled Kryonaut, but the application wasn't especially even.
 

Dayaks

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A change like that in the space of just a day or two suggests a failed component. I'd be inclined to suspect maybe the CLC's pump is getting gunked up, or a fan isn't spinning.

I have the same card, but with the full coverage water jacket (they called it the Seahawk EK or something like that), one thing I noticed was that it appeared that the water jacket was installed somewhat haphazardly, as if the card is first manufactured with an air heatsink that is later removed and replaced with the water jacket. Perhaps after some kind of binning process?

Anyway, I mention this because it's possible that the contact of the CLC pump/block thing and the core is imperfect, and it's not conducting heat out of the core very well. I'd check this as well, and reapply with a good thermal grease. My card came with something that resembled Kryonaut, but the application wasn't especially even.

I’ve had 2/2 seahawk ek’s die.

When I also had 3/3 1080ti EVGA hybrids die two years ago...

My Asus Black 2080ti with my self installed EK copper acetal block and Radeon VII with self installed waterblock has been great however. I think I have god awful luck with preinstalled water lol.

But yeah - an instant change on a closed loop card points to failure.

One thing I didn’t know was MSI’s RMA can be up to 35 days. Besides paying for shipping to them, that annoys the hell out of me...
 

demondrops

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seems my ventus cap out around 1950. so i wont push it, it just throtle no matter what at around that point, without pushing fans beyond stock. 100 mhz is around 2-4 fps so i wont sweat it.
 

RazorWind

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I’ve had 2/2 seahawk ek’s die.

When I also had 3/3 1080ti EVGA hybrids die two years ago...

My Asus Black 2080ti with my self installed EK copper acetal block and Radeon VII with self installed waterblock has been great however. I think I have god awful luck with preinstalled water lol.

But yeah - an instant change on a closed loop card points to failure.

One thing I didn’t know was MSI’s RMA can be up to 35 days. Besides paying for shipping to them, that annoys the hell out of me...
What was it that failed? The card itself?
 

Dayaks

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What was it that failed? The card itself?

For the AIOs I was part of an unlucky batch where the pumps had some kind of buildup. There were a bunch of us on the EVGA forum with the same issue. I was annoyed they wanted me to pay shipping for an issue that was obviously their fault.

For the MSI 2080ti EK Seahawks it was the card itself. A plate did dislodge on both cards (I believe to help flow through the die area) but it didn’t seem to affect temps much. Thought that was strange.

I might just stick with air from here on out lol. My main rig I like water for tweaking purposes, but the others... definitely air.
 
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