more paint questions

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meinzorn

[H]ard|Gawd
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Nov 12, 2003
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If you don't want to just spray paint the case one solid color, what paints work good, and stick well to metal to paint by hand, with a brush?
 
Well, I can't answer your question but perhaps an alternative?

Depending on the complexity of what it is you want to do you could do multiple colors by just masking areas. If you need something more complex (ie. airbrush type images) I'm afraid I can't help but there are plently of people around here who should be able to help :D
 
self-etching primer is a must before painting on bare metal. If it's already coated, just scuff the surface and paint.
 
well, yeah, I know to prime and such. But my biggest question is.. if I want to use a brush, and actually paint over primed metal. (I'll probably actually paint a under color first like black, and then do what I want on top of that)

but what kind of brush paints will work.. I mean, I guess I could just go and get any craft paint, and it will work, but I don't want it flaking off after a month.

but then again, I could just make sure to use a LOT of clear coat over the top. That would probably help hold anything? Yes, no?
 
I'm confused as to why you are brushing it on instead of spraying it...


Aside from that, self etching primer is not regular primer. It does not fill like regular primers. It's just there so the basecoat will stick to the metal. Just fyi
 
brushing to do more detail work. I have something I want to paint onto the side.
 
Your best bet is to either get model airplane paint (like you said) or to use and enamel based paint. I dont know much about airbrushing so I am a bit for a loss on that one. One thing that you can do to help avoid chips and scratches is to put a nice thick coating of clearcoat on after everything is said and done. This will help protect against that kinda stuff.
 
now last question about clearcoat. What is a good kind to use that wont be foggy. That's one thing I've been disapointed with when it comes to it, I always get foggy results.

or maybe it is my application?
 
I also have a question about clearcoats. I've laid down my primer, wetsanded, a set of color coats, wetsanded, and a 2nd set of color coats. Do I now wetsand again and then clearcoat? Do I just lay down the clearcoat and wetsand?


Also, when laying down the first clearcoat, to I first put down one layer of color coat, or put the clear coat right on top of the wetsanded color coat?
 
jreffy said:
I also have a question about clearcoats. I've laid down my primer, wetsanded, a set of color coats, wetsanded, and a 2nd set of color coats. Do I now wetsand again and then clearcoat? Do I just lay down the clearcoat and wetsand?

Also, when laying down the first clearcoat, to I first put down one layer of color coat, or put the clear coat right on top of the wetsanded color coat?
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If you are happy with your results and do not see any orange peel then go ahead and put down you first layer of clear. I would not wetsand the clear until you have atleast 3 coats on, this will keep you from sanding through the clear and into the color, or worse yet through the color. When you are wetsanding make sure to use nothing lower than 1500 grit, I would actually recommend 2000 grit. Once you get a good look with that then you are going to need to get some 3M polish and buffer, this will give you that great, mirror like look.

Heres another great site with a good tutorial.
www.mnpctech.com
 
I like to get my final colour coat totally smooth before applying the clear coat...

Just use the back of any piece of sandpaper... It's about 2500grit... Really gets the piece smooth :).

And dont sand the clearcoat for at least... 3 days IMO!

Hmm... now that my paint has dried... I LIKE the orange peel effect! It makes the case look rugged! Eh, to each their own... Lots of people don't wire manage :p
 
If you are painting artwork by hand with brushes, you ouht to use artist acrylics. They're water-based, water cleanup, easy to correct mistakes. Then you can use a proper sealer and clearcoat when you are done.

really not understanding how you can expect to do a good job with brushes if you have so little experience you don't even know what paints are available. Not meant as a slam, just wondering why you would choose a technique you apparently have no experience with.
You ought to practice painting something else first, anyway.
 
well, honestly, that's exactly it. I have no experience and I have to start somewhere.

I'm not going to do anything super fancy or detailed or anything. It's just meant to be a learning experience.

I have a few scrap cases laying around that I don't really care about is why i'm asking, I just want to play around. I'm going to tear them all apart and do a bunch of shit to them.
 
Another question for the thread. What about paint for Plexiglass? Would it pretty much be the same paint used for Fiberglass?
 
Pegesus said:
Another question for the thread. What about paint for Plexiglass? Would it pretty much be the same paint used for Fiberglass?
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normal spraypaint will eat up plexiglass. You would need a plastic bonding spraypaint.
 
Hobby shops have paint intended for Lexan or polycarbonate that work really well on plexi, Pactra is the brand name I use.
 
Check the paints offered for RC car shells. They are clear plastic / plex / polycarbonate. Uusally some type of enamel paint.
 
w1retap said:
normal spraypaint will eat up plexiglass. You would need a plastic bonding spraypaint.
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Actually no it doesnt. I have a piece of plexi that I sanded one side with about 2k grit paper and then sprayed a few light coats. Looking at the unsprayed side, it looks glass smooth and has not "eaten" the plexi at all. Now if he were to use a self-etching primer then yes, or some kind of paint that has a corrosive agent in it (ie Rustoleum) but normal spray paint is non-corrosive or abrasive so it will not eat the plexi.
 
I agree. I sprayed a piece of plexi with cheap-o wal mart paint once, and it didn't damage it any. It actually barely stuck to it (I didn't do any sanding)
 
meinzorn said:
I agree. I sprayed a piece of plexi with cheap-o wal mart paint once, and it didn't damage it any. It actually barely stuck to it (I didn't do any sanding)
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Ah, young grasshoppa, sanding is the answer to ALL your painting questions. Like Mr. Miagi said "Paint the fence Daniel!!! UP,DOWN,UP,DOWN,UP,DOWN....."
 
But sanding plexi fogs it up.

If you sand with 2000+ grit, to make it clear again, paint won't stick. Lol.
 
gregnash said:
Ah, young grasshoppa, sanding is the answer to ALL your painting questions. Like Mr. Miagi said "Paint the fence Daniel!!! UP,DOWN,UP,DOWN,UP,DOWN....."
Click to expand...


haha, good quote.

I was experimenting. It was for a mod that I did, and I didn't want the paint to lay too thick. It worked well enough for what I wanted. when spring rolls around i'll take some more pictures of the mod and show ya.
 
Arcygenical said:
But sanding plexi fogs it up.

If you sand with 2000+ grit, to make it clear again, paint won't stick. Lol.
Click to expand...


Worked just fine on mine. I didnt sand with anything greater than 2k grit. I didnt go hard core on it just sanded enough to rough the surface up, washed it off with light soap and water and then sprayed once it was dry. Came out great looking even with crap in the paint on the back.
 
Does anyone have any links to actual steps for painting plexiglass or the like. The finish i am looking to achieve here is nearly mirror like/glass quality.

I'm just wondering if it will involve the same steps as would metal or should i be taking any other precautions.
 
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