Mitsubishi 1080p DLP 3D TVs, 73" $1170, 82" $1850, 92" $2000 @Dell

I pulled this image up on the TV, it looks identical to how it looks on my laptop display. I'm not sure which area you want me to focus most on, but to my eye it looks identical.

Me too. My set has more than exceeded my expectations for a tv of this size and cost.

My K/D ratio in MW3 has even gone up since getting this. Enemies are so big, I cant miss them. <--- Not a joke!
 
That's good to hear. Looks like some peeps on AVSforum got defective sets. I'm thinking of swapping out my 51" CRT HDTV with the 73" Mits DLP. It's hard to since the 51" still works and looks pretty good but it has annoying glitches.
 
Mine is showing up today. Will have to set it up after I get home from work. Hopefully I don't have any problems with it.
 
I went to frys and checked these out cause I had to see one in person. I'm glad I didn't purchase it I was not impressed.
 
They never have it set up properly in store FYI. Improperly configured sets hooked up to shitty signal splitters that give the TV a crappy image to work with. Even the best upscalers can only do so much. The Mits upscaler is good, dunno if its the best though either.
 
These TVs have great value. If you're susceptible to seeing the rainbow effect that can be very annoying. I was actually able to see it when I first got it and its become less noticeable for me now.

I bought the 65" model in 09 and its been a pretty good TV. Only real complaint is the colors were a little too saturated using its stock settings, but I was able to change it. But as far as features, pictures quality, and number of input options. Its been great. I haven't hooked a PC to it so I can't comment on that. But as far as console gaming, bluray, and HD programming its been great.
 
I'm very happy with this tv (73"). It has a great picture for something this size, and the superbowl looked amazing on it.
 
DLP = meh. I've had a 65" panasonic industrial plasma monitor for 5 years and it continues to be hard to find something that can replace it and make a big diff.

I think I found it recently however, at least size-wise + picture quality wise: costco had an 80" LED for something like $4400 that was pretty spectacular. 80" definitely my next size, but I wouldn't stoop to DLP to get there.

And to the people that always ask me "why do you need such a big TV" or "why do TV's need to keep getting bigger" I say its not simply about e-peen, for me its all about the fact my main seating area is 20 feet away from my current 65" which is not ideal by most standards and guides that tell you how far back the seating should be for a given picture size. Example I can't really tell the diff between 720p and 1080p on a 65" sitting so far away, whereas on an 80" or larger I think I'd have a better chance.
 
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DLP = meh. I've had a 65" panasonic industrial plasma monitor for 5 years and it continues to be hard to find something that can replace it and make a big diff.

I think I found it recently however, at least size-wise + picture quality wise: costco had an 80" LED for something like $4400 that was pretty spectacular. 80" definitely my next size, but I wouldn't stoop to DLP to get there.

And to the people that always ask me "why do you need such a big TV" or "why do TV's need to keep getting bigger" I say its not simply about e-peen, for me its all about the fact my main seating area is 20 feet away from my current 65" which is not ideal by most standards and guides that tell you how far back the seating should be for a given picture size. Example I can't really tell the diff between 720p and 1080p on a 65" sitting so far away, whereas on an 80" or larger I think I'd have a better chance.
Thank you for answering a series of questions that no one asked.
 
They never have it set up properly in store FYI. Improperly configured sets hooked up to shitty signal splitters that give the TV a crappy image to work with. Even the best upscalers can only do so much. The Mits upscaler is good, dunno if its the best though either.

A quality store will let you hook your laptop into the TVs to avoid at least the signal split issue. Bring a DVD, HDMI cable, and the lappy so you can appear to be the biggest nerd in the store. And, shoot, it might be true.
 
Still rocking my 65" Mitsubishi WD-Y65. Have had it since 2006. It still produces a very sharp, bright 1080 picture that I'm hesitant to replace.

Buying a 73 or 80 would have been nice. But I'm going to wait for OLED's to get bigger and cheaper.
 
DLP = meh. I've had a 65" panasonic industrial plasma monitor for 5 years and it continues to be hard to find something that can replace it and make a big diff.

I think I found it recently however, at least size-wise + picture quality wise: costco had an 80" LED for something like $4400 that was pretty spectacular. 80" definitely my next size, but I wouldn't stoop to DLP to get there.

And to the people that always ask me "why do you need such a big TV" or "why do TV's need to keep getting bigger" I say its not simply about e-peen, for me its all about the fact my main seating area is 20 feet away from my current 65" which is not ideal by most standards and guides that tell you how far back the seating should be for a given picture size. Example I can't really tell the diff between 720p and 1080p on a 65" sitting so far away, whereas on an 80" or larger I think I'd have a better chance.

I have been through enough of the panny plasmas and there problems that I won't be back with them any time soon. 54VT25 had hard black crush on both the set I originally had after two months, and its replacement. VT20 series I had before was worse of course being an earlier model. The Bravia 52" XBR-4 LCD I have had since 2007 had a better overall picture than either of those two plasmas which are their top line.

Still wanted bigger. So, I got a 73640 in August, build date of June, put 200 hours on the bulb, got it calibrated, turned off Geometry Correction back to 1-1 pixel mapping, GREAT PICTURE! More fim like in quality, just the way I like a TV for Movies, not the over processed look of some of these LED LCD's or plasmas. I personally didn't need all the internet apps and built in 3d emitter (Since DLP Link is built into all 640/740/840 models), and having a great 7.1 surround sound there was no need to have the 16 speaker front. And from what I have found out, the light engines are pretty much all the same for these models. (makes sense not to have 3 different versions.

Service Menu
To check or adjust Geometry- Hit the Menu button, then type fast 2,4,5,7. You can also find hidden options in there. Screen adjustments also are made in that same menu. I don't use Geometry correction because of losing pixel mapping which in Blu-ray movies GC causes some blurryness or anomilities. If your Geometry is really bad out of box, get the TV replaced, take a pic for backing up you claim.

3D, You Do Not Need An Emitter

Glasses
Optoma ZD101's are big, bulky, and badass. I have had true depths and Ultimate3D. They still show a green tint which is the DLP Link Signal in the TV picture. Only the Optomas show black as black and the picture is fantastic. (Better than the Panny 54VT25 I had which I thought was good for 3d till this tv.) I know alot of people are on the Hate Avatar bandwagon, but between the panny and the Mits, the Mits was just Awesome to watch it on and just as crisp and BIGGER.

There had been a bad batch of sets lately so make sure to check your Geometry to see if it is really something you can't live with. Give the TV 200 hours, then calibrate your colors. you can use the Disney WoW disk to get pretty close using the advanced settings. I have two settings. 3D is set to Bright while being calibrated in 3d, standard is in the Natural mode.

To check lamp hours: Menu button, 2470. Don't worry if your TV says for a MAC ADDRESS: DEAD BEEF. lol Mine did.






Panny BDT-210 player is great 3d player.
 
Whew. I am going to need a bulb sooner than I thought. Since August its at 929 hrs. lol
 
Had my Samsung DLP for 5 years - loved it, then I got an HTPC and realized what a blurry, overscanned mess the DLPs really are when trying to use with an HTPC.

After weeks of demo'ing Panasonic VT65's and a myriad of other high-end TV's I went with a 70" 734 Sharp LCD - got it for $2500. Absolutely gorgeous when calibrated. The VT65's still flicker at 60hz, just like every other plasma for my eyes (I fall in the 10% that this bothers) so a no-go on plasma. No regrets on the 70" Sharp - unbelievable picture. And bigger IS better.

I could care less about a TV being "thin" - I'm not hanging anything on my wall as I've got floor standing speakers and components around the TV - all that would do is move the picture away from me and make it smaller. I think people buy sometimes on the fact the new tv's are thin vs. picture quality.

My old DLP still has a much better picture than most cheap-mid range LCDs.

Blurry pixels, overscan and black leves is why I didn't go with another DLP - looked at all the new Mitsu's for many hours, including the LaserVue. The blurriness/overscan is only an issue when using an HTPC. FWIW

Best TV out IMO is the 70" Sharp Elite LCD
 
Had my Samsung DLP for 5 years - loved it, then I got an HTPC and realized what a blurry, overscanned mess the DLPs really are when trying to use with an HTPC.

After weeks of demo'ing Panasonic VT65's and a myriad of other high-end TV's I went with a 70" 734 Sharp LCD - got it for $2500. Absolutely gorgeous when calibrated. The VT65's still flicker at 60hz, just like every other plasma for my eyes (I fall in the 10% that this bothers) so a no-go on plasma. No regrets on the 70" Sharp - unbelievable picture. And bigger IS better.

I could care less about a TV being "thin" - I'm not hanging anything on my wall as I've got floor standing speakers and components around the TV - all that would do is move the picture away from me and make it smaller. I think people buy sometimes on the fact the new tv's are thin vs. picture quality.

My old DLP still has a much better picture than most cheap-mid range LCDs.

Blurry pixels, overscan and black leves is why I didn't go with another DLP - looked at all the new Mitsu's for many hours, including the LaserVue. The blurriness/overscan is only an issue when using an HTPC. FWIW

Best TV out IMO is the 70" Sharp Elite LCD

Overscan with an HTPC is the one thing that I really hate about my WD-Y65. I had to create some crazy ass custom resolution for it work properly. Which doesn't make sense to me since the native res is 1920x1080, yet that res set on the HTPC has tons of overscan.

Now I just use my 360 at my HTPC. Does everything I need it to do without the overscan issue.
 
Overscan with an HTPC is the one thing that I really hate about my WD-Y65. I had to create some crazy ass custom resolution for it work properly. Which doesn't make sense to me since the native res is 1920x1080, yet that res set on the HTPC has tons of overscan.

Now I just use my 360 at my HTPC. Does everything I need it to do without the overscan issue.

overscan is part of the theater and tv spec.
If you have a front projector, for example, you will still manually overscan a few pixels onto your mask. It's intentional.
 
overscan is part of the theater and tv spec.
If you have a front projector, for example, you will still manually overscan a few pixels onto your mask. It's intentional.

When you can't see the start menu, it's annoying. I care not how intentional it is. The image should fit the screen which is rated for the resolution I'm providing it.
 
Why dont you just turn overscan off?

If you have an ATI card they hide the setting a little, but with nVidia the option is pretty apparent. My HTPC runs fine. I do remember searching harder than normal to find it in the ATI drivers.
 
Why dont you just turn overscan off?

If you have an ATI card they hide the setting a little, but with nVidia the option is pretty apparent. My HTPC runs fine. I do remember searching harder than normal to find it in the ATI drivers.

You obviously have never owned a DLP. There is a 4-6% overscan BUILT INTO ANY DLP set. Most cannot be change from the set side and must be jackassed to "work" from the video card driver's side, which is not ideal, at all. Either you can choose (if your drivers let you) to adjust overscan (shrinking the picture), thus ruining the 1:1 pixel mapping, or set a custom resolution (to maintain 1:1 pixel mapping) which isn't ideal either. It's not fun and anybody that has been there knows this. I loved my DLP in almost every other way. This was one of my major issues that got me to spend $2,500 on a new set. Now I don't have an overscan problem, at all. I've got a perfect, crisp, straight 1920x1080 on screen - crucial for HTPCs. That said, it took a Sharp 70" LCD to be enough of an upgrade from my Sammy 61" to make it worth it.
 
I had the issue with my task bar being cut off when I hooked up my HTPC. Took me 2 minutes to find the overscan option in my ATI CCC, adjusted the slider and the screen fits the TV beautifully. Is keeping the 1:1 ratio that crucial?
ati-set-overscan.png
 
I had the issue with my task bar being cut off when I hooked up my HTPC. Took me 2 minutes to find the overscan option in my ATI CCC, adjusted the slider and the screen fits the TV beautifully.
ati-set-overscan.png

And now you no longer have a 1:1 pixel mapping. I bet it looks just great. Been there, done that. How to make blurry, even blurrier. ^^^
 
And now you no longer have a 1:1 pixel mapping. I bet it looks just great. Been there, done that. How to make blurry, even blurrier. ^^^

I'm going to assume that was sarcasm :D I will admit this is my first DLP, and maybe its due to me sitting about 8-10 ft away from the TV, or my young eyes, but it doesn't look blurry to me, it's slightly difficult to read text on a white background due to the sheer size of the TV.
 
I'm going to assume that was sarcasm :D I will admit this is my first DLP, and maybe its due to me sitting about 8-10 ft away from the TV, or my young eyes, but it doesn't look blurry to me, it's slightly difficult to read text on a white background due to the sheer size of the TV.

That helps - I was 11-12ft with a 61" - so, smaller set, further away. Text was the killer - and with an HTPC, regardless of if you surf the internet or not for pleasure, you're constantly upgrading drivers and doing other tasks that require you to read, or search through text. For me, it got unbearable. You're looking at a pixel that's been projected onto the back of a coated plastic panel vs. looking at the actual pixel, thus the blurry appearance. Great for movies - gives a very soft, natural picture with great color blending, but horrible for anything else.

DLP has always been size/cost bang for the buck. They are also very fast with no flickering (plasma) or pixel ghosting (some cheap LCDs). They can have the rainbow effect - I never saw this effect, thank goodness.

If it works for you, awesome. The new Mitsu's are great sets. Everybody is screaming OLED and it too, has it's downfalls. There is no perfect technology yet - not even on the horizon. If you've found one that works for YOU, then that's what is most important.
 
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ah i agree on the text not being sharp. videos and anime though. gorgeous. 110%
 
I read this on a different forum, not sure if I understand it completely but it might apply?

"What they do to add overscan for fixed pixel displays is to use the internal scaler to enlarge the resolution by the amount of overscan required. For 1920x1080 displays with 5% overscan added the resolution of the picture is enlarged to 2016x1134. The extra pixels are interpolated which destroys the 1:1 pixel mapping. Then the extra pixels are discarded for display since only 1920x1080 can be sent to the display panel. Similar scaling to accomplish overscan will occur for other native resolutions."
 
I had the issue with my task bar being cut off when I hooked up my HTPC. Took me 2 minutes to find the overscan option in my ATI CCC, adjusted the slider and the screen fits the TV beautifully. Is keeping the 1:1 ratio that crucial?
ati-set-overscan.png

Turning off overscan through the ATI driver on my Samsung 42" DLP didn't work (moving the slider to 0 made the image huge) and custom resolutions look like shit. I've tolerated losing 50% of my Windows menu. I use my HTPC almost exclusively for watching Netflix, Blu-Rays, and emulated gaming so it really isn't that big of a deal. I don't know if the Mitsubishi sets will have the same problem I did.
 
These Mits apparently have a 1:1 pixel mode.

Anyway this deal is dead. I was ready to order one yesterday and now the 73" lists for $1399. Fuck.
 
These Mits apparently have a 1:1 pixel mode.

Anyway this deal is dead. I was ready to order one yesterday and now the 73" lists for $1399. Fuck.

Call Paul's TV (they are an authorized mits dealer).
They price matched the past price from Dell.

However, after talking them about the 82740 I decided to spent a little more and buy the 82840 (diamond series).

I paid $2229 to my door.
 
Paid $2700 shipped for my 82" Mits a year ago. Still love it. DLP doesn't have the crispness that the LCD and Plasma's have. It's more like the CRT TV's. Which I personally like. I still have yet to see a Plasma or LCD that I liked due to the pixels being so obvious at that size. 1920x1080 at 20 something inches looks great, but blow it up to 65+ and it starts to be very visible. We sit about 8 feet from our 82". Can't see the pixels.

Oh and my 65" RP-CRT had WAAAYYYYY too much overscan. It even cut off tickers on the news. I can't say that I notice it with my DLP. Plus the DLP's brightness and viewing angle is leaps and bounds better then my CRT was. So I'm happy.
 
Paid $2700 shipped for my 82" Mits a year ago. Still love it. DLP doesn't have the crispness that the LCD and Plasma's have. It's more like the CRT TV's. Which I personally like. I still have yet to see a Plasma or LCD that I liked due to the pixels being so obvious at that size. 1920x1080 at 20 something inches looks great, but blow it up to 65+ and it starts to be very visible. We sit about 8 feet from our 82". Can't see the pixels.

Oh and my 65" RP-CRT had WAAAYYYYY too much overscan. It even cut off tickers on the news. I can't say that I notice it with my DLP. Plus the DLP's brightness and viewing angle is leaps and bounds better then my CRT was. So I'm happy.

I had a RP CRT TV and the overscan on that was terrible. What it is on the DLPs is way better. I havent hooked up a PC to it, but when it comes to all the channels on directv I've been able to see everything on the screen.

Especially ESPNEWS which I couldn't see most of the tickers. I think its worth anyone coming from a RP CRT based tv will probably love everything about the these DLP TVs.
 
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