Mini ITX Steam/Emulator Box

CMadki4

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
4,438


Thanks for checking out my worklog. Latest updates are marked by big bold red headers. Can't miss'em.

Intro:

I wanted to make a small mini ITX system dedicated to Steam and emulation. The more compact the better. The end goal being a clean console-like build with a clean front end. Easy to just fire up and play a game or two.

System Specs:

  • i3 3220
  • ASRock H67M-ITX
  • Samsung 840 250GB SSD
  • Kingston HyperX 120GB SSD
  • HyperX 4GB DDR3
  • 160XT-picoPSU w/ 192W brick
  • HD7750 1GB low profile
  • X360 Wireless Controllers (x4) + internal receiver
Equipment:
I have my own CNC machine. However, many of you know that it (specifically the electrical side of it) has caused me absolute nightmares over the past months. Therefore, I am borrowing a co-workers NC system to tie up some loose ends.

Materials:
This case is made entirely from scrap pieces left over from the m3a2 project. I didn't want to eat into virgin aluminum stock (untouched, not machined pieces). Spare/existing parts only.

Design:
A lot of you have seen this before. Pretty simple design. It accommodates only the essentials when it comes to hardware.

Dimensions: 90mm (W) x 207mm (H) x 198mm (D)
Volume: 3.7 liters (0.97 gal.)


Construction is 100% aluminum. Specifically, it is machined from 6063 and 6061 aluminum extrusions and plate. Side panels are 3mm thick, top/front/rear are 4mm thick and the bottom is 8mm thick.


Machining Bottom Piece:
The actual bottom panel differs from the 3D models above because I wanted to use a scrap piece. The scrap piece was actually twice as thick as the other panels, which allowed me to machine feet into it, creating a air gap for the GPU to draw in air. I clamped the piece into a make-shift fixture to hold it straight and hit [cycle start].
VIDEO

Machining Back Piece:
The front, top and rear panels are done in much the same way: clamped down, machine zero'd and [cycle start]. Of course that's in addition to hours of designing and programming...

2013-06-30161104.jpg


Machining Side Panels:
The side panels are cut from a couple pieces of anodized aluminum plate, 3mm thick. These were cannibalized from an old amplifier enclosure. Once machined, the anodizing was removed with Easy Off oven cleaner. Wicked stuff.
Assembly:
The case is designed to simply bolt together. Only 8x 4mm screws are required to bolt the front/rear/top/bottom panels together. Another 8x 3mm screws for the side panels (4 each).









Note: Not shown is a the rear panel being redesigned and recut to fix a mistake in the design.

Overall Assembly:
Being such a tiny case it is very difficult to build in. What turned out to work the best was build on the motherboard tray/side panel and assembled the case around it panel by panel.


Heat Build Up:
I was hoping that my low power system I built inside would not generate a lot of heat and that a chassis fan would not be required (to keep things quiet). However, even with a little 35W i3 2100T and HD6670, the heat would build up, little by little. Nothing crazy, but enough to make the fans start to wind up with HD videos or mild gaming. More air flow was required. A 140mm fan fits just right. Now to machine a vent into the side panel.


Another Look Around the Unfinished Case:
The case is nearly complete. Even though I do kind of like the natural brushed look of aluminum, It will be powder coated in a textured black. It will also be getting a black power button with green LED ring.






Disassemble For Tweaking and Powder Coating:
Here are some slightly better pics of the case in day light. I'm taking it back apart to make some minor modifications and ready the parts for powder coating (which I do in my shop).















Wiring Modifications and Cable Management:
Coming soon...
Powder Coating:









Test Assembly:


Xbox360 Wireless Controller Receiver and Wifi:

I want the Xbox 360 wireless controller receiver mounted internally. Also, my motherboard does not have build in wifi. I wanted wifi capability without having another USB dongle off the back. Plus, I had this wireless adapter to use and it fits the application.

Basically all I did was desolder the connectors for both the x360 receiver and the wifi adapter and soldered on a shielded USB cable with onboard-type USB plugs. I also ran a momentary switch off the X360 receiver to sync controllers without having to open the case. Pretty simple. I'll finish them up with a tab of hot glue to secure the leads and shrink tubing to prevent shorts.

The wifi adapter will be secure to the back of the case by the antenna and the x360 receiver will be secured to the SSD bracket at the front.
BEFORE


AFTER

LATEST UPDATE: July 23rd, 2013
Final Assembly and Configuration:
Did a fresh install of Win7 and got the bugs worked out on the base system (no games/emulators). Flashed the BIOS to 2.10 and put in the new SSD. Modified wifi adapter works well after finding better drivers.

Note: Stock Intel cooler shown below was only mounted with the G530 to flash BIOS. System is currently running the Noctua.




Issues:

  1. The range on the Xbox360 RF module was severely reduced when inside the case. Regardless of location inside the case, range was limited to 8 feet max. Okay for desktop gaming, but not for use in the living room.
  2. Closing out of emulators with nothing but the x360 controller requires Xpadder to do an Alt+F4. Problem is that F4 also has a function in some emulators and games, causing strange problems. Example, Project64 has F4 mapped to something for fast forward or something like it.
Other notes:

  1. I'm currently booting straight into Steam Big Picture, doing a simple Shell regedit. Works very smoothly and I haven't had any issues with thus far.
  2. The computer stays pretty cool. It helps that most emulation is CPU. The i3 3220 is cool running in the first place, but is also really well cooled in this case design. During PC games (not emulators) the HD 7750 does get a little warm, like around 64*C, but this well within acceptable temperature range of just about any card.
  3. Xpadder is an excellent application for emulating keyboard on a controller. Makes certain things a lot easier for complete game pad operation.
 
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(Updated 7/9313) To Do List:

  1. Minor filing/cutting to rear panel for easier assembly - Complete
  2. Press M3 thread inserts (PEMs) for more secure/longer lasting side panel mounting threads - Complete
  3. Clean parts - Complete
  4. Powder coat parts texture black (matte finish) - Complete
  5. Modify picoPSU wiring for better fit and cable management - Decided against it
  6. Wire black/green vandal switch - Complete
  7. Cut new side panel for better air flow and less noise - not required, runs cool and quiet enough
  8. Powder coat side panel and fan grill - not required
  9. Assemble, power on and test - Complete
  10. Modify xbox360 USB receiver for internal installation - Complete
  11. Configure PC to launch directly into Steam Big Picture mode - Complete
  12. Setup emulators to launch from Steam Big Picture mode (also add game banners) - Complete
  13. Enjoy (gaming, emulating and general 'putering) - Complete
 
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Two questions: where did you hide your SSD and from where did you get that Stargate mousepad?

But good to see you back in the game after your unfortunate M3A2 end.
Just some thoughts: don't you have an HDMI or kind of cable so you could reduce all the cables? Or maybe 1.5' more in depth so one could plug cables in and hide them afterwards and you have only one cable-out from the case. Cable-out then best near to the bottom as it would fit the case footings.
But as it's almost finished by now I think that won't help much anymore :D
 
Two questions: where did you hide your SSD
It is attached to the front panel, just below the power switch.

...and from where did you get that Stargate mousepad?
I had them made. I forgot what website. The larger one is actually what they considered a place mat, lol

But good to see you back in the game after your unfortunate M3A2 end.
Just some thoughts: don't you have an HDMI or kind of cable so you could reduce all the cables? Or maybe 1.5' more in depth so one could plug cables in and hide them afterwards and you have only one cable-out from the case. Cable-out then best near to the bottom as it would fit the case footings.
But as it's almost finished by now I think that won't help much anymore :D
Unfortunately, I wouldn't say I'm "back". This is temporary, I'm on borrowed time with the NC control I'm using. Not something I can continue. But it is good to at least complete one project.

I do have HDMI and will use that when I'm done, DVI is just what was at that spot on the desk. A lot of the other cables will go away as well. Things you can see in the picture that won't be there are the ethernet, printer USB, eSATA, audio and DVI. The only cables will be the power and HDMI. Access to the interwebs via the SMA antenna that you see above the power plug.
 
That's a very cool case. I really dig it. Can't wait to see it coated.
 
That's a very cool case. I really dig it. Can't wait to see it coated.
Thank you.

I was originally going to brush the entire thing when it was done, use the current silver power button and leave it natural. But I think it will look really great in matte textured black. It will have a more finished look to it.

Now I'm reading up on MotioninJoy, PS3 controllers, Dolphin, Steam Big Pictures, etc.
 
What exactly is wrong with your mill man? Everything that comes out of it seems to be quality.
 
Dolphin is pretty intense, hopefully your gear is up to the task. Unfortunately my only experience is with an Athlon 4850e+gt430 and 3570K+gtx660TI... works great on the i5 system. :D

The case is pimp though. You'll be much better off with the i5 vs i3 for Dolphin and newer steam games. With that said, you might want to pick up some 360 controllers for steam games, a lot of the games are optimized for 360 style controllers.
 
What exactly is wrong with your mill man? Everything that comes out of it seems to be quality.
I was basically having a lot of electrical issues (VFD failure, G540 failure, drive PSU failure, spindle lockup, control PC failure x2). It was running hard on hardware that was apparently not up to the task.

Originally, when it worked it would make great parts. But things started to fail left and right.That's why I'm borrowing a control system currently. But the biggest issue is even when the machine is 100% healthy and cranking out parts, it takes waaaay to long to make a larger case like the m3a2. Hell, even this little case is taking quite awhile to make. Hours of machining time and hours of manual work on top of that. And since I have so very little free time it just wasn't feasible or reasonable. But yes, the parts I'm putting out are great.
Dolphin is pretty intense, hopefully your gear is up to the task. Unfortunately my only experience is with an Athlon 4850e+gt430 and 3570K+gtx660TI... works great on the i5 system. :D

The case is pimp though. You'll be much better off with the i5 vs i3.
To my surprise I ran Dolphin a little yesterday on Res.Evl.4, I believe, and it ran at max FPS (60?) and 99-100% speed. That won't likely always be the case, so the i5 will come in handy.
 
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With that said, you might want to pick up some 360 controllers for steam games, a lot of the games are optimized for 360 style controllers.
That's what I've gathered from reading around the interwebs. I believe MotioninJoy can have the PS3 controller emulate the XBOX360 control, but with the added benefit of Bluetooth and better D-pad (something I don't personally have experience with, I've only ever owned a PS3, though only for a short period). So the games will play just as though you're using an XBOX360 controller.
 
Well it's doesn't hurt to have both. I've been meaning to try to get my PS3 controllers working with my HTPC as they would probably be better for emulators as they do have better D-pads. Charging them is a pain in the ass.
 
nice looking case as always cmadki! looking forward to seeing the finished product!
 
Well it's doesn't hurt to have both. I've been meaning to try to get my PS3 controllers working with my HTPC as they would probably be better for emulators as they do have better D-pads. Charging them is a pain in the ass.
When I had a PS3 I had the Sony control charging stations for 2 controllers. Made charging/storing them a breeze.
nice looking case as always cmadki! looking forward to seeing the finished product!
Thanks! I thought you might enjoy it. I really think it's going to look good once it's all black with its green LED ring power button.
 
When I had a PS3 I had the Sony control charging stations for 2 controllers. Made charging/storing them a breeze.

This may be worth looking into, plus it looks good
 
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I love this case. It's like my dream for an AMD A10 crossfire build. I love all the aluminum and basically everything about this. I need it.
 
Howdy all! I updated the original post with slightly better pictures and more inside and out details of the case.

This may be worth looking into, plus it looks good
Word.
I love this case. It's like my dream for an AMD A10 crossfire build. I love all the aluminum and basically everything about this. I need it.
Thanks. Aluminum is great to work with. Not cheap, but so fun to machine. Plus, the end results just have a certain feel to them that a steel case can't rival. And a machined aluminum case takes that a step further with a great high-end hi-fi pinache to it.
 
Look like a nifty, no-nonsense mini-ITX case :) Great job :D

With that 140 mm fan in it, it looks to be about the size of an ATX PSU. What are the exact dimensions?
 
Look like a nifty, no-nonsense mini-ITX case :) Great job :D

With that 140 mm fan in it, it looks to be about the size of an ATX PSU. What are the exact dimensions?
Thank you :)
Dimensions: 90mm (W) x 207mm (H) x 198mm (D)
Volume: 3.7 liters (0.97 gal.)
It's a little bigger than an ATX PSU, but not by a whole lot.
 
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Thank you :)
Dimensions: 90mm (W) x 207mm (H) x 198mm (D)
Volume: 3.7 liters (0.97 gal.)
It's a little bigger than an ATX PSU, but not by a whole lot.

Yup, just a few cm bigger on each side at most :)

How is that PicoPSU working out, by the way? I'm thinking building a mini-ITX system as well. Those PicoPSUs just seem almost too perfect :)
 
Yup, just a few cm bigger on each side at most :)

How is that PicoPSU working out, by the way? I'm thinking building a mini-ITX system as well. Those PicoPSUs just seem almost too perfect :)
So far, the picoPSU is awesome. I've got a pretty tame system in there right now, so it's not really stressing it any.
System Specs:

  • Currently an i3 2100T, will possibly upgrade to i5 3550S
  • ASRock H67M-ITX
  • HyperX 4GB DDR3
  • HyperX 120GB SSD
  • 160XT-picoPSU w/ 192W brick
  • HD7750 1GB low profile
  • Bluetooth adapter + PS3 Sixaxis controller
  • Modified USB wireless adapter
But so far I've been quite pleased. I need to get a kil-a-watt meter to see what the system is actually pulling from the wall.

Really can't complain about the picoPSU. They are pricey, but seeing how there is no other alternative... I guess time will tell how it holds up. It will be stressed a little more once I upgrade to the i5 3550S. That's a 65W processor in comparison to my current 35W i3 2100T.
 
Really classy build CMad. Glad to see it come together.
Thanks. It's good to see you back on the forums :)
This is a really cool little case! Can't wait to see it powder coated.
Thank you.

Here is a little powder coating teaser. I had a whole powder coating session yesterday with this mini case and a number of small parts for my friends 350Z grand am car.
 
Also, I did pick up some wireless Xbox360 controllers to try out with this build. So I'll have PS3 and Xbos360 controllers to tinker with and decide which I like more. I can tell you right off the bat, the Xbox360 controller will be MUCH easier to get going, almost plug and play.
 
I use the 360 controllers on my htpc. They work great, no setup at all. Just turn them on, fire up a game and kick back on the couch.

Looking forward to updated pics.
 
I use the 360 controllers on my htpc. They work great, no setup at all. Just turn them on, fire up a game and kick back on the couch.

Looking forward to updated pics.
Yeah, the ease of plug-n-play with the 360 controllers over the ps3 has me thinking that's what I'll end up using. And if it works well I plan on modifying one of the receivers (I'll be receiving 2) for internal mounting. Stealth :) I've seen it done on laptops, should be a breeze on a desktop.

Powder coating is done, just with the holiday goings-ons I haven't had a chance to take some good pics.

I will be recutting the side panel with the 140mm fan. That slat design is noisy. Than fan is very quiet until I placed it on the side panel. Then it makes a really annoying hum/buzz as the air flows through the slots. After trying a variety of grills, I'm going to go with a classic wire fan grill. Doesn't make the fan any noisier and doesn't restrict air flow. Not as cool looking, but it works better and that is paramount in such a small case. Functional beautiful, if you will.

Edit: I'm basing the decision to redo the side panel with a wire grill not only on my own testing, but this article (and there are a few others out there):
http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/

I personally tested:

  1. slots (the current side panel) = lots of turbulence/noise/restricted flow
  2. hex modders mesh = lots of turbulence/noise/decent air flow
  3. fine mesh filter = quiet whisper of turbulence/restricted flow
  4. wire grill = no change from no-grill, quiet/unrestricted
 
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Just for poops and giggles I ordered one of these fan grills. I was thoroughly disappointed. It's actually pretty quiet, but it just kills the air flow. If I were to guess I'd say around 50% reduction in air flow.
61sKyqu7N-L.jpg

So, it looks like it will have to be the wire grill. Not the best looking option, but once I powder coat it black to match it should be fine. More importantly, it will silently guard the fan and restrict almost no air flow doing so. Can't argue with that.

I'm just waiting on my i3 3220 to arrive. Seller sent parcel post, slowest possible method, so I'm patiently waiting until Saturday. Coming along with the i3 are two Xbox360 controllers and receivers. I'll maybe modding one for internal mounting, depending on how testing goes. I want to see if putting the receiver inside the case kills the range/reliability of the controllers. If not, then in it goes!

Hopefully, over today and tomorrow I'll have time to make a new side panel as well as powder coat it and the fan grill. Saturday will hopefully be assembly and testing.
 
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Updated OP with pictures of the case's powder coated finish. I actually did two coats to get that uber textured finish. It's got a really nice feel to it. Check out the OP for more pics.

And here's my little helper:
 
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I just had an epiphany (don't worry, I'll take some ibuprofen). I have an old Rhino robot arm from ages ago. I've always wanted to integrate some of its parts into some case mods/builds. I need an interesting looking nonrestrictive fan grill for a 140mm fan, right? Check this out:
ENARA_Arm2.jpg

At the articulated shoulder of the arm there are 3 large sprockets: 72 tooth #25 pitch. Which by my math puts it around 5.5-5.75" in diameter. It might be perfect for a large fan grill. I don't have the robot here with me at work (we use slightly newer/larger fanucs ;)), but when I get home I'll pull one of the sprockets out of my box-o-parts and see how it measures up. Could be cool looking if I can implement it tastefully. But then again, I can cut any pattern I want into the side panel...
 
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Here is the sprocket I'm talking about, sitting on top of a 140mm fan. The size is almost too perfect not to use, but it does make a bit of a *wooshing* sound from the turbulence through the spokes. I think it would be cool to do this plus a little sprocket (1/8th the size) with the teeth meshed together like gears (though they are actually chain sprockets). Then powder coat black or brushed aluminum finish? Still thinking.

What do you think? Try to make this work or just go with the classic no frills wire grill?


 
I've started to put the system together. I got my CPU and X360 controllers in yesterday and got to assembling. The case is tiny, with little room to spare, but it comes apart easily for easy access.

I got it as far as powering on and...... no video. No post. Light is on, fans spin up then settle down, then... nothing. Just sits there: lights on, fans spinning. Then I remember, "CPU upgrade. I didn't update the BIOS." And guess what? That SB cpu is long gone. All I have is the new IB. I have to take the BIOS from 1.10 to 2.10 and that can only be done (to my knowledge) with a CPU installed. So, I've got a cheap G530 on the way to bridge the gap. Unless I can borrow one from IT here at work I'll probably have to wait until this weekend to finish it all up.

Edit: Also wanted to add my first experience with the Xbox360 controller on PC. It was quite pleasant. Screw the PS3 controller and messing with Motioninjoy. I literally did nothing more than plug in the wireless receiver, let it install the drivers and synced the X360 controllers. That simple. I tested it out with a few minutes of Deadlight. Very fun. I'm looking forward to finishing this build and being able to game comfortably from the couch. My wife and I are going to enjoy this :D
 
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Yeah, BIOS upgrades do require a CPU to be installed :) Definitely something which can catch you by surprise. Hopefully you can get it all sorted soon.
 
I want the Xbox 360 wireless controller receiver mounted internally. Also, my motherboard does not have build in wifi. I wanted wifi capability without having another USB dongle off the back. Plus, I had this wireless adapter to use and it fits the application.

Basically all I did was desolder the connectors for both the x360 receiver and the wifi adapter and soldered on a shielded USB cable with onboard-type USB plugs. I also ran a momentary switch off the X360 receiver to sync controllers without having to open the case. Pretty simple. I'll finish them up with a tab of hot glue to secure the leads and shrink tubing to prevent shorts.

The wifi adapter will be secure to the back of the case by the antenna and the x360 receiver will be secured to the SSD bracket at the front.
BEFORE


AFTER

 
Thats pretty cool. I've been wanting to put one of my xbox wireless receivers inside my htpc for a while now. I may have to give that a shot. Great work man.
 
Thats pretty cool. I've been wanting to put one of my xbox wireless receivers inside my htpc for a while now. I may have to give that a shot. Great work man.
Thank you kindly!
I hope to have this up and running and the wife and I playing some games this weekend :) And it won't be long before my oldest will be able to pick up a controller and play with daddy :D :D :D
 
I got the system built last night. Had to drop the G530 in, update the BIOS to handle an IB chip, swapped out the G530 for the i3, got everything packed into the case, test run for a bit and then buttoned it up and put the side panels on.

I've got it here at work sitting in the corner going through all its updates.

Edit: Idle temps are fantastic. According to HWMonitor the CPU is 30*C and the HD7750 is 32*C. Those are stellar temps. Both the NH-L9i and the 140mm Cougar side panel fan are set to 50%. Granted there is a lot of ambient noise here in my work office, I can still only barely the computer with its side panel fan pointed directly at me 1' away.
 
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Did a fresh install, flashed the BIOS, swapped out the G530 for the i3, installed all the drivers and got the bugs worked out on the base system (no games/emulators).


Then took it to work with me to hash out the details on my breaks. Installed all my emulators and ROMs and created the appropriate short cuts and banners for Steam as the front end. You can barely tell it's there on my desk in the wide shot. Looks like a WD My Book, haha :)


 
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Issues:

  1. The range on the Xbox360 RF module was severely reduced when inside the case. Regardless of location inside the case, range was limited to 8 feet max. Okay for desktop gaming, but not for use in the living room.
  2. Closing out of emulators with nothing but the x360 controller requires Xpadder to do an Alt+F4. Problem is that F4 also has a function in some emulators and games, causing strange problems. Example, Project64 has F4 mapped to something for fast forward or something like it.
Other notes:

  1. I'm currently booting straight into Steam Big Picture, doing a simple Shell regedit. Works very smoothly and I haven't had any issues with thus far.
  2. The computer stays pretty cool. It helps that most emulation is CPU. The i3 3220 is cool running in the first place, but is also really well cooled in this case design. During PC games (not emulators) the HD 7750 does get a little warm, like around 64*C, but this well within acceptable temperature range of just about any card.
  3. Xpadder is an excellent application for emulating keyboard on a controller. Makes certain things a lot easier for complete game pad operation.
 
Wow that looks really fantastic. It's nice to see a completed version of this case.

Are you using the stock CPU cooler, or that Noctua you showed above? And do you think the Noctua would be enough to handle the 55W i5 you mentioned earlier?

And 65 C isn't bad for that 7750. Mine can get quite a bit hotter than that; the heat isn't really an issue, but it does get noisy. Hopefully vendors will put a little more effort into these small form factor cards when the next generation comes along.
 
Wow that looks really fantastic. It's nice to see a completed version of this case.

Are you using the stock CPU cooler, or that Noctua you showed above? And do you think the Noctua would be enough to handle the 55W i5 you mentioned earlier?

And 65 C isn't bad for that 7750. Mine can get quite a bit hotter than that; the heat isn't really an issue, but it does get noisy. Hopefully vendors will put a little more effort into these small form factor cards when the next generation comes along.
Thanks brother.

The picture you see with the stock intel cooler is actually showing the G530 mounted. I put the Noctua back on with the i3. I believe it would be more than enough for the i5 3550s. With the i3 it shows a ton of overhead, which tells me a hotter chip would do just fine under the Noctua. Relatively quiet too.
 
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