Mini itx build in old '30s radio

So not much has happened, i upgrade to a Ryzen 5 5600 and it is still running cool.

I happened to buy an RX 6600 and water cooling block for it :)

So something needs to happen, since I don't think the loop can handle the extra heat.

I was thinking of skipping the the wooden front and go with a smoked acrylic front instead.

This should give me the opportunity to have one more radio+fan and also do some rearranging of the buttons and add 1-2 USB 3 in the front :)

Can't figure out if it is good or bad to loose the wooden front?
 
So not much has happened, i upgrade to a Ryzen 5 5600 and it is still running cool.

I happened to buy an RX 6600 and water cooling block for it :)

So something needs to happen, since I don't think the loop can handle the extra heat.

I was thinking of skipping the the wooden front and go with a smoked acrylic front instead.

This should give me the opportunity to have one more radio+fan and also do some rearranging of the buttons and add 1-2 USB 3 in the front :)

Can't figure out if it is good or bad to loose the wooden front?
Your current aesthetic is badass but making concessions is sometimes a necessity. In other words...ya gotta do what ya gotta do ;)
 
Would it be possible to maybe extend the case a little bit either out the back or the bottom to be able to mount more cooling to go through might be able to match the current wood tones and aesthetics that are there to keep it looking original but maybe sitting on a fancy stand or something?
 
I like your work. Sounds like you get the feature creep bug like me. I go gangbusters on a project, then just don't have the time right at the end. Then, when I get back into it, I end up finding ways to improve it.

All that said, have you thought of going with an external radiator in a housing modeled to look like an extension speaker? Use some quick detach fittings.
 
Would it be possible to maybe extend the case a little bit either out the back or the bottom to be able to mount more cooling to go through might be able to match the current wood tones and aesthetics that are there to keep it looking original but maybe sitting on a fancy stand or something?

I could make some sort of spacer ring in the back, to move the back panel further out.

But I could also upgrade to a bigger radiator I guess
 
I like your work. Sounds like you get the feature creep bug like me. I go gangbusters on a project, then just don't have the time right at the end. Then, when I get back into it, I end up finding ways to improve it.

All that said, have you thought of going with an external radiator in a housing modeled to look like an extension speaker? Use some quick detach fittings.
No I had actually not thought of that, I will have a look at it.
 
But I think I have another issues that is since I'm switching to a full copper GPU water block and cpu block is also copper.
Maybe I actually need a copper radiator to avoid corrosion build up?
 
But I think I have another issues that is since I'm switching to a full copper GPU water block and cpu block is also copper.
Maybe I actually need a copper radiator to avoid corrosion build up?
What you currently have is likely brass cored and won't hurt your loop if your running a halfway decent fluid (with copper blocks). The vast majority of rads are made of brass as well. The only ones I can think of that are copper cored are Alphacool and some Byski.
 
What you currently have is likely brass cored and won't hurt your loop if your running a halfway decent fluid (with copper blocks). The vast majority of rads are made of brass as well. The only ones I can think of that are copper cored are Alphacool and some Byski.
I believe that all of Hardware Labs stuff is copper cores. This Hardware Labs L Series https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...l-series-360-xtreme-radiator-nlx360-f2pb.html for $85 is the OEM version of the Corsair XR7 360 https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ.../Radiators/hydro-x-xr7-config/p/CX-9030005-WW that goes for over $100. The Corsair specs specify that it is a copper core with copper fins. It is basically a slightly narrower version of the Black Ice Nemesis GTX that is made to be basically the exact same width of a 120mm fan for fitting purposes. I have one of the hardware labs versions still in the wrapper and I have one of the Corsair versions that I used for a couple of years before moving to the MO-RA3. Other than the Corsair badging, the rads are identical. Great radiators. I basically bought based on this review from Tech Power Up. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/corsair-hydro-x-series-xr7-360-radiator/
 
I believe that all of Hardware Labs stuff is copper cores. This Hardware Labs L Series https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...l-series-360-xtreme-radiator-nlx360-f2pb.html for $85 is the OEM version of the Corsair XR7 360 https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ.../Radiators/hydro-x-xr7-config/p/CX-9030005-WW that goes for over $100. The Corsair specs specify that it is a copper core with copper fins. It is basically a slightly narrower version of the Black Ice Nemesis GTX that is made to be basically the exact same width of a 120mm fan for fitting purposes. I have one of the hardware labs versions still in the wrapper and I have one of the Corsair versions that I used for a couple of years before moving to the MO-RA3. Other than the Corsair badging, the rads are identical. Great radiators. I basically bought based on this review from Tech Power Up. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/corsair-hydro-x-series-xr7-360-radiator/
Yes! Finally, someone that knows and appreciates the L series!!! I had given up trying to convince people that they were wasting their money with the xr5/7s, rather than going with the L series rads. They have gotten quite a bit more expensive over the years as well. They released the 360 @$54 (when I bought my first one)! While the xr7 360 has stayed pretty much static ($105, 3 or so years ago). So, folks may actually be listening to people like you and I occasionally... 🤔 or I'm reading to much into it haha.
TY for that breath of fresh air. I was losing hope for the vast majority of the wcing crowd 😆

Back on topic :D
You are correct! Both the Hwl and L series are copper finned and cored. Hwl make the best rads you can get bar none imo. You'd think that they'd have been the first ones to come to mind being that I'm running 3 Hwl rads and have been using the L series in builds for years (insomnia strikes again). Despite all of my bad mouthing...I have an xr7 360 as well. BNIB sitting in my rad pile. It's a great rad, just haven't found the right rig to use it in yet.

VSG @TPU does an excellent job with his wcing reviews. Your going with the xr7 was a solid choice, they are nice. I'm pretty sure it was VSG that figured out that the L series and xr rads were the same. If you ever have a question about something in his reviews he will respond to you asap as well. He ran the extremerigs review site (primarily wcing)but had to close the doors sadly. Fortunately he's been able to keep the site up with all the old info, just no more new reviews.

@hamandk the suggestion for some kind of base with a hidden internal rad would be sweet. You could go with any size rad you wanted and finish it the same or completely different as your radio case.
Or...after reading kamikazis response, that reminded me that an external set-up like his MO-RA3 would be perfect. Obviously the MO-RA3 is way to big but you can get rad stands for a 240/280/360 that will allow you to hide and transport it anywhere.
Here is an expensive but sleek example from barrow.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004314190865.html

There are much much cheaper options of course like this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/403055768518
just something to ponder ;)

EDIT- wow, sorry for the book.
 
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What you currently have is likely brass cored and won't hurt your loop if your running a halfway decent fluid (with copper blocks). The vast majority of rads are made of brass as well. The only ones I can think of that are copper cored are Alphacool and some Byski.
Pretty sure my Arctic freezer 120 aio rad is aluminium and the Bykski GPU waterblock that I bought is accordign to them Electroplated High Purity Copper.

So that was my reasoning for switching to a copper based radiator.
 
Pretty sure my Arctic freezer 120 aio rad is aluminium and the Bykski GPU waterblock that I bought is accordign to them Electroplated High Purity Copper.

So that was my reasoning for switching to a copper based radiator.
that was probably the correct assumption, almost all aios use alu rads BUT copper blocks. i would assume the af/water mix they use is preventing corrosion though.
 
Pretty sure my Arctic freezer 120 aio rad is aluminium and the Bykski GPU waterblock that I bought is accordign to them Electroplated High Purity Copper.

So that was my reasoning for switching to a copper based radiator.
Ah I gotcha, very good choice. I forgot you were running the Arctic 120 aio (definitely aluminum). Solid choice going with the Byski. They are my go to for GPU blocks. Price to performance they are unbeatable...as long as you order from AliExpress (the prices at their US site are EK level of stupid).They are slowly improving their installation directions, which was their biggest drawback for alot of people.
I look forward to seeing how you integrate your new loop!
 
Ah I gotcha, very good choice. I forgot you were running the Arctic 120 aio (definitely aluminum). Solid choice going with the Byski. They are my go to for GPU blocks. Price to performance they are unbeatable...as long as you order from AliExpress (the prices at their US site are EK level of stupid).They are slowly improving their installation directions, which was their biggest drawback for alot of people.
I look forward to seeing how you integrate your new loop!
Yeah I have come to the conclusion that I will try to install the bykski gpu water blok and a 50mm cooper radiator and then install an extra fan to do push/pull and then see what temps i'm getting.

This way I can still keep the wooden front.

I mean looking at the tpd for the gtx 1060 an the rx 6600 it is 120w vs 130w, so maybe the loop can handle it.
 
Arg fuck all well laid plans can fail I guess :)

The bykski gpu block does not fit, I took a chance on it but luckily I can return it. I bought the Rx 6600 XT itx block since the Rx 6600 XT itx and the Rx 6600 PCB look similar on the pictures online, but one condensator is in the way so it does not fit :(

So back to using my old setup, but that will require som fidling around :)
 
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Looking at the PCB, the following two capacitors are in the way:

Could I simply desolder them and mount them using wires, so they are placed in a different spot?
1675972735332.png
 
Looking at the PCB, the following two capacitors are in the way:

Could I simply desolder them and mount them using wires, so they are placed in a different spot?
View attachment 547793
You think you can just take a drill to the block and "mill" it out where those caps go? Is that a solid part of the block?
 
Sadly there is a flow channel and o-ring groove right where the capacitors are.

However I could desolder and mount the capacitor on the other side of the PCB and just mill/drill a hole in the backplate? The capacitors are through hole.
 
However I could desolder and mount the capacitor on the other side of the PCB and just mill/drill a hole in the backplate? The capacitors are through hole.
one way to find out...
theoretically it should work and will definitely earn you your [H]ard badge
 
First trial fit after the mod of the capacitors:
-qp9-rjPJd3N03yuxJQfOi5wE=w1250-h937-no?authuser=0.jpg


Disassembly of the old water loop:
4quIY4n14i2UqbZw9vguZXgjk=w1250-h937-no?authuser=0.jpg


Fittings for the GPU block:
OJDOzOfg5v2NPewFvQCLH2Sro=w1250-h937-no?authuser=0.jpg


A couple of hours later after getting air out and checking for leaks ----> First trial mount and everything looks good.
zB3ZY8H5ZsQm-g4zt1zhZi2BE=w1250-h937-no?authuser=0.jpg


Everyting back in place and ready for some testing:
xFIRfdIuKH7uOul6yELhGh1Ok=w1250-h937-no?authuser=0.jpg


No RGB since it runs 5V and my board runs 12V, but the water block do look nice :)
llCey-3SMfMSCFj0IDWXaOVmA=w1250-h937-no?authuser=0.jpg


10 minutes of max stress testing in OCCT, so full load on GPU+CPU and temps are round 62C on CPU and GPU hot spot is 64C and fan is running around 80%.
GHTd7MpPanLuOHSylklAG7f1oM=w703-h937-no?authuser=0.jpg


Currently I'm pushing with some sort of PWM noctua and the pulling with an Arctic P12 PST PWM. However I do have one more Arcitc P12 PST PWM and maybe it was better to run the same two fans?
 
First trial fit after the mod of the capacitors:
View attachment 549621

Disassembly of the old water loop:
View attachment 549622

Fittings for the GPU block:
View attachment 549623

A couple of hours later after getting air out and checking for leaks ----> First trial mount and everything looks good.
View attachment 549624

Everyting back in place and ready for some testing:
View attachment 549625

No RGB since it runs 5V and my board runs 12V, but the water block do look nice :)
View attachment 549626

10 minutes of max stress testing in OCCT, so full load on GPU+CPU and temps are round 62C on CPU and GPU hot spot is 64C and fan is running around 80%.
View attachment 549627

Currently I'm pushing with some sort of PWM noctua and the pulling with an Arctic P12 PST PWM. However I do have one more Arcitc P12 PST PWM and maybe it was better to run the same two fans?
See what model Noctua fan you have there. It's definitely not an A12x25. If it was, I'd say stick with it. It looks like some flavor of F12 and those are rated for decent static pressure. If that's the case and you're happy with the noise level, probably no need to change it out. It's rated for higher rpm than the Arctic P12, but not by much. Arctic P12s are great bang for the buck fans for radiators. Their only downside is that they make some strange noises at certain RPMs. You just have to adjust curves so that you don't stay in that RPM range. I think it's somewhere in the 1100s. FWIW, I'm running a Watercool MO-RA3 with Phantek T30s pulling and Arctic P12s pushing. Those two fans aren't even in the same league performance wise. I don't think mixing push pull is a problem. There's a great debate however on whether the stronger fans should be the push or the pull.
 
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Turns out it was the Noctua A12x25 :)
So I will leave it all be.

Got everything back in place and it is running nice and cool
You sure? A12x25s have fan blades like Gentle Typhoons. Your picture really looks like an F12. I doesn't really matter either way though.

A12x25
noctua_nf_a12x25_1_8.jpg


F12
nf_f12_3_8.jpg
 
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Yes I can see what you mean, I checked my build notes and I wrote a12x25, but clearly not the case.

Is there any gain in going push pull with 2x A12x25?
 
Yes I can see what you mean, I checked my build notes and I wrote a12x25, but clearly not the case.

Is there any gain in going push pull with 2x A12x25?
Probably not a lot unless you are going to run them flat out at 2000 rpms, which would be loud.
 
Small update since my build was running a bit hot when playing cs2 and the fans was getting very loud:

So used an old Alphacool 240x30 radiator I had combined with the two nuctua 120mm fans.
Then I bought a alpha cool radiator stand, bulkhead quick connectors and then I now have a external radiator setup.

Holes for the quick connectors:
20231007_151939.jpg


Connectors, hoses etc fitted and leak test and air removal done:
20231007_161343.jpg


And finished setup:
20231007_174337.jpg
 
Small update since my build was running a bit hot when playing cs2 and the fans was getting very loud:

So used an old Alphacool 240x30 radiator I had combined with the two nuctua 120mm fans.
Then I bought a alpha cool radiator stand, bulkhead quick connectors and then I now have a external radiator setup.

Holes for the quick connectors:
View attachment 604138

Connectors, hoses etc fitted and leak test and air removal done:
View attachment 604139

And finished setup:
View attachment 604140
Really cool. Now you just need to get that external radiator in an enclosure that looks like an external speaker.
 
This is one of the sickest PC projects I can remember seeing in a long time, or maybe ever, and it has been profoundly interesting, fascinating, and educating seeing it all come together. Thanks for sharing this journey with us!
 
Really cool. Now you just need to get that external radiator in an enclosure that looks like an external speaker.
This or try to build off the back of it a little bit and match the wood style
 
Every time I see this post I start looking on FB for an old vintage radio for my next itx build lol
 
This is one of the sickest PC projects I can remember seeing in a long time, or maybe ever, and it has been profoundly interesting, fascinating, and educating seeing it all come together. Thanks for sharing this journey with us!
I'm glad you have enjoyed the journey and thanks for the kind words.

And I can see I need to do some sort of matching case for the external radiator, so probably more to come :)
 
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