Mini itx build in old '30s radio

H

hemandk

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 15, 2021
Messages
136
I have a mini itx gamer rig in a coolermaster elite 110 case, but I wanted to try something different so I got my hands on an old radio from the 1930's.

Radio.JPG


Early specs:
CPU: Ryzen 5 3600
Mobo: Biostar x370gtn
Ram: 8GB Patriot DDR4 3200MHz CL16
GXF: INNO3D GeForce GTX 1060 6GB Compact
Storage: 512GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus SSD M.2 2280
PSU: SilverStone SX500-LG
Cooling components:
  • Artic Freezer 120 Radiator with 1x Arctic P12 PWM PST
  • CPU water head: Repurposed AIO MasterLiquid ML120L RGB
  • GPU water head: Arctic Freezer 120
  • Eisstation 80 with DC-LT 2600 silent pump

Midway specs:
CPU: Ryzen 5 5600
Mobo: Asus Prime A320I-K
RAM: 16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3600 C18 BK DC
GXF: Asrock RX6600 Challenger (moved two capacitors to the back)
Storage: 512GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus SSD M.2 2280
PSU: Corsair SF450
Cooling components:
  • Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 120mm Radiator with 2x Noctua nfa12x25 in push/pull
  • CPU water block: Repurposed AIO MasterLiquid ML120L RGB
  • GPU water block: Bykski Arock RX6600XT ITX challenger
  • Eisstation 80 with DC-LT 2600 silent pump
Final specs (for now):
CPU: Ryzen 5 5800X
Mobo: B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax
RAM: 16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3600 C18 BK DC
GXF: ASUS 3060TI dual mini V2
Storage: 512GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus SSD M.2 2280
PSU: Corsair SF600
Cooling components:
  • 2x Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360mm Radiator with 6x Noctua nfa12x25 in push (Radiator rack is seperated from the build)
  • CPU water block: Liquid Extasy AM4 block
  • GPU water block: Liquid Extasy block
  • Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755 with Eisdecke top
  • Change all fittings to 13/10 and 13/10 Alphacool soft tubing

Started out by modelling it in Creo:

Case_transparent.JPG

frame_Front.JPG

frame_rear.JPG


Next step was to remove the old radio mechanics and then remove a little wood on the back of the radio so everything would fit.
DSC_0668.jpg

DSC_0669.jpg

DSC_0670.jpg


Next I tried to fix the old glass with all the radio stations, I want to keep it but if you touched it the silk print would just fall off.
So I scanned it and tried to clean it up as best as possible and then I reprinted it on transparant. Took a couple of tries before I got it right.
DSC_0678.jpg

Final version(right) compared with the original (left):
compare.JPG


Received the mechanical parts from the workshop and I have started a trial mount:
DSC_0710.jpg


I had to drilll a little hole in one of the fans for one of the studs holding the motherboard:
DSC_0713.jpg

DSC_0714.jpg


PC plate mounted and getting ready to drill holes for the upper screws:
DSC_0717.JPG


Next step is to drill holes and change the front of the radio with a new fabric. The current fabric on the front is not looking so nice.
 

Attachments

  • Case_full.JPG
    Case_full.JPG
    60.7 KB · Views: 0
  • DSC_0679.jpg
    DSC_0679.jpg
    290 KB · Views: 0
  • DSC_0681.jpg
    DSC_0681.jpg
    246.4 KB · Views: 0
  • DSC_0684.jpg
    DSC_0684.jpg
    326.1 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
And speaking of update I stripped the front of the hessian fabric and sanded it a bit:
DSC_0719.jpg


So found a new way to use all my whiskey that does not seem to disapeer, since I prefer gin.
I ended up using a charcoal grey color for the hessian fabric, but the glue seem to seep through on my first attemt.
So second attemp I used some of the glue fabric that you use for seams and ironed some black fabric on the hessian fabric.
This way the hessian is not that see through and I could glue on the black fabric without seeping through the hessian fabric.
DSC_0720.jpg


Fabric glued to the back as well. Needed to do a little cutting to finish off properly.
DSC_0723.jpg


A shot of the front, need to make cutouts for the radio station glass and also for the buttons:
DSC_0722.jpg
 
Last edited:
Drilled and tapped the top holes using some M4 inserts for plastic/wood. Gave them some loctite to be sure the stay in there.
DSC_0727.jpg


Fitted the bracket for the PSU it just helps to take some of the wieght so the PC plate wont brake:
DSC_0728.jpg


Prefit of the back plate:
DSC_0730.jpg
 
This looks like an awesome fun project, cant wait to see the finished thing!!
 
Not any updates ATM.
Waiting for some buttons for the front so I can finish it.

Also I broke the glass for the front (the glass with radio stations), but my local store should have a new one for me next week.
 
Received the buttons this week and here is the first prefit:
DSC_0754.jpg


Slight problems with the power button getting very close to the stay that holds the motherboard, so switched some stuff around and here is the end result:
Fan button is to toggle between high and low fan speed. The lights buttons turns RPG light and you can select different modes.
DSC_0756.jpg


Pictures from inside the case. The bracket for the PSU is in the way, so I have to remove the connector from one of the buttons and drill a hole so that push pin can go through.
Now I just need to figure out some clever way of using that as a toggle switch.

DSC_0757.jpg


DSC_0759.jpg


Just a picture of the Radio with the front installed. Need to cut a hole in the fabric for the front glass and then the front is complete.
DSC_0761.jpg
 
Started today by cutting out for the radio frame
DSC_0788.JPG


Then I tried to assemble the frame and glass, but I managed to break the glass since there was some tension. Maybe the glass I got made was just a bit to big. I well make a new glass in PC or plexiglass.
DSC_0790.JPG


Frame fitted without glass
DSC_0792.JPG


Everything fitted and ready for a new glass :)
DSC_0794.JPG
 
termite said:
As someone who restores old tube radios, this kills me. But I have always wanted to do it with a "unpreparable" one.


Looks good so far, can't wait to see it completed.
Click to expand...

Thanks I need to finish the cabling for the buttons, so I can get the rest of the PC done.
 
So I made some progress doing the summer.

Installed a air filter in the bottom:
DSC_0879.JPG


Started on the cables for the power button:
DSC_0883.JPG

DSC_0884.JPG


Next I did the fan button, basically I decided to run my two fans at 5V and if press the fan button they can be run at 12V if I need extra cooling when playing etc.
DSC_0886.JPG

DSC_0887.JPG


Next I tried to trial fit everything:
DSC_0888.JPG

DSC_0889.JPG

DSC_0890.JPG

DSC_0891.JPG


So after the trial fit I decided to remove the metal bracket that was supposed to support PSU.

I also ordered some pins for the modular plugs of my PSU since they need to be shortened. The modular cables are like a ribbon cable. Was thinking I would loosen them and stick them in a sleeve like I did the power button cable.
I think will look better and be more smooth.

More to come when I receive the pins.
 
So had a slight set back today since my GTX was getting way to hot.

Ended up having to run the rig with the case.

Need to do something with ducts I think.

DSC_0931.JPG
 
what temps? try taking the gpu shroud off and increase the aio fan speed some. you could also increase the size of the pci cut out a bit to let it suck in more air.

1629300825968.png
 
pendragon1 said:
what temps? try taking the gpu shroud off and increase the aio fan speed some. you could also increase the size of the pci cut out a bit to let it suck in more air.

View attachment 386110
Click to expand...
GPU Hot spot goes up to around 85-90°C and GPU temp somewhere around 75-80°C when inside the case.

I have decided to devide my coolers in two sections and control each section with ArgusMonitor. Also upgraded all fans to Noctua :)

Blue section is for CPU air will come in from the bottom and be pushed out through the radiaoter

Red section is for the GPU and I have 3D printet a small airduct for the lower cooler so the cold air will be pushed over towards the graphics card.

As you can see I also just stripped the Noctua fan and that works great.

I was kinda thinking the opposite i wanted to 3D print a cover so I could angle the fan a bit and suck in the air from the bottom and push out the air via the PCI cutout.

However not sure I have the space. I will need to do some CAD work.
two sections.JPG
 
Last edited:
the new fan on the gpu was going to be another suggestion. . you could also repaste the gpu with something better, sometimes that will knock off a good chunk of the temp.
also, if those temps are after prolonged use, they are probably/technically within spec. just warmer than most of us would like. did i miss what gpu, i only see "GTX"? 1060.
 
pendragon1 said:
the new fan on the gpu was going to be another suggestion. . you could also repaste the gpu with something better, sometimes that will knock off a good chunk of the temp.
also, if those temps are after prolonged use, they are probably/technically within spec. just warmer than most of us would like. did i miss what gpu, i only see "GTX"? 1060.
Click to expand...

Yeah think I missed the 1060 part.

I have some arctic MX4, so will try to repaste the GPU.

The 120mm fans Works much better so think I will try that one and then see if I can make some kinda shroud that will give decent air flow.
 
hemandk said:
Yeah think I missed the 1060 part.

I have some arctic MX4, so will try to repaste the GPU.

The 120mm fans Works much better so think I will try that one and then see if I can make some kinda shroud that will give decent air flow.
Click to expand...
no, its in your op, i just missed it.
that will do.
used CAD(cardboard added design)
 
  • Like
Reactions: travm
like this
So did some cardboard mock-up and airflow seemed to be good.

Did some 3D modelling and started two parts:

The duct on the lower fan will move cold air to the GPU:
airflow2.JPG


Then the shroud on the GPU will move air hot air out in 3 places. I decided not to open up the shroud towards the bottom, to avoid turbolence.
Should have some parts friday, and hopefully I can try it out.
airflow1.JPG
 
So 3D prints are done:
DSC_0933.JPG


First fitment of the lower air duct:
DSC_0935.JPG

DSC_0936.JPG


The shroud for the GTX needs some small adjustments and the towers for the screws needs to be a bit bigger, so I can mount some threaded inserts.
DSC_0934.JPG
 
Ironically this is why blower GPUs exist. Love the design work and customization, keep up the photos. Really enjoy watching this build.
 
travm said:
Ironically this is why blower GPUs exist. Love the design work and customization, keep up the photos. Really enjoy watching this build.
Click to expand...
Thanks I will keep the pictures coming.

I had never heard the expression "blower GPU", so had to google it. I can see that I ended up with something in between open air and blower gpu.

While I was playing with the cardboard, the noise level was increased a lot if I blocked off all sides, so had to open up the top and back to reduce the noise a bit.
 
  • Like
Reactions: travm
like this
hemandk said:
Thanks I will keep the pictures coming.

I had never heard the expression "blower GPU", so had to google it. I can see that I ended up with something in between open air and blower gpu.

While I was playing with the cardboard, the noise level was increased a lot if I blocked off all sides, so had to open up the top and back to reduce the noise a bit.
Click to expand...
I've worked for years as a mechanical design engineer, it's enjoyable watching You work the Problem and design something so unique. Getting the heat out of a wood case is a real challenge. Definately a sweet build, hope you get it tuned to zoom.
 
travm said:
I've worked for years as a mechanical design engineer, it's enjoyable watching You work the Problem and design something so unique. Getting the heat out of a wood case is a real challenge. Definately a sweet build, hope you get it tuned to zoom.
Click to expand...
Ahh a fellow mechanical engineer :) (I normally work with medical devices)

Yeah I hope this latest tweak will give a good noise to cooling ratio.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top