Microwave satellite dish must be installed 350 ft away from house, too long for CAT5e

It's an outdoor-rated carrier-grade cable. I saw the spool box it came from.

Outdoor rated means UV protection, not rated for burial or submersion (which means not rated for use in conduit either).

FAIL

/thread
 
Wow...get some burial cable and do it right....
 
Technically he doesn't need to bury the conduit.

If the cable is outdoor rated, and the conduit gives it physical protection.

Most cable is waterproof except the ends...so submersion resistance is not necessary.
 
I would either bury it in conduit or put some poles up and string it higher.

And it will continue to work until either a rodent chews it apart (90% probability per year) or an electrical surge blows up the equipment at one end or the other.

Something about electrical fields that make them appear as tasty treats to critters in the rodent family.

It's the chewy copper centre! Unless it's fibre, it's not fun chewing through all that casing to find out you're eating glass.
 
I would either bury it in conduit or put some poles up and string it higher.



It's the chewy copper centre! Unless it's fibre, it's not fun chewing through all that casing to find out you're eating glass.

I love that this was posted by "Red Squirrel" :D
 
Technically he doesn't need to bury the conduit.

If the cable is outdoor rated, and the conduit gives it physical protection.

Most cable is waterproof except the ends...so submersion resistance is not necessary.

The wire is not rated for sustained water exposure, which it needs to be in order to be rated for use in buried conduit. Water gets into conduit and sits, especially when buried above the frost line. Outdoor cat5 will rot when sitting in water. The sheath cracks, then the wire insulation rots, then you have pairs crossing.

AAsk any phone guy
 
I've linked the customer to Post #33 and beyond. :D I have also referred him to Mackintire's post:

Critters will still eat it if you don't bury it (deep enough), and even then....there's still a possibility.

3 sections of this buried and you shouldn't have chewed wire.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/AFC-Cabl...-30-00/202286688?N=5yc1vZbohlZ1z0usncZ1z113d9

EDIT: I recommended the customer the following:
...and a crimp tool + burial below freeze line + install Ethernet Data Isolator on the network drop inside the mobile home before it gets to the WiFi router.
 
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I've linked the customer to Post #33 and beyond. :D I have also referred him to Mackintire's post:



EDIT: I recommended the customer the following:
...and a crimp tool + burial below freeze line + install Ethernet Data Isolator on the network drop inside the mobile home before it gets to the WiFi router.

I'm not sure if it matters for your implementation, but that box of Cat5e that you linked to is CCA, which I usually avoid like the plague.
 
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The wire is not rated for sustained water exposure, which it needs to be in order to be rated for use in buried conduit. Water gets into conduit and sits, especially when buried above the frost line. Outdoor cat5 will rot when sitting in water. The sheath cracks, then the wire insulation rots, then you have pairs crossing.

AAsk any phone guy

Yep, the big 600+ pair phone cables have compressed dried air pumped into them to prevent water from getting in. Water = bad. You would think the insulation would protect from water but over the years it wears and cracks and water can get into the copper. Some of the reall old cables actually only have paper insulation. Those old ones arn't color coded either, very fun resplicing a 600 pair cable... glad it's not my job. :D I'm not even sure how they do it TBH. Two guys with a probe and toner I guess, tracing one pair at a time.
 
I would recommend a 1/2" pvc conduit instead of the lfnmc you have in your list.

Personally I'd do mine in 1/2" PVC, but since it appeared the bar was set so low, I made a recommendation based on the cost expectations.
 
All you need is direct burial flooded cat5, no conduit or anything. It is flooded with gel to repel moisture. I personally reccomend shielded cable, but dont ground it. The shield normally is for bonding, but in your case you only want it for the physical protection it provides against rocks.

If you have 3 12ft ground rods at the well house in a halo to ground to and bonded the shield to the electric service ground at the house, you could bond it.
 
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So if we did lay down fiber, how would you go about accomplishing it? Would you guys be terminating/splicing your own fiber, or would you determine the length needed and purchase a custom/mass manufactured length appropriate for the distance with slack?
 
no way to terminating, either buy pre-term or run the cable and have a contractor come in and terminate the ends.
 
So if we did lay down fiber, how would you go about accomplishing it? Would you guys be terminating/splicing your own fiber, or would you determine the length needed and purchase a custom/mass manufactured length appropriate for the distance with slack?

Personally too much of a risk of damaging the end connectors (plus having to pull through conduit, forget that). I'd buy bulk fiber and have a contractor come in to terminate it. Sure there are pre-polished connectors you can install yourself, but it's nice to have a contractor do it, as they can run an OTDR on the install when done to verify it's clean/low loss/etc. That's what I did for one of my clients. Had a contractor come in, she terminated the end connectors, ran OTDR, e-mailed me the results, and charged a very minimal amount (plus showed me the entire termination process).
 
Personally too much of a risk of damaging the end connectors (plus having to pull through conduit, forget that). I'd buy bulk fiber and have a contractor come in to terminate it. Sure there are pre-polished connectors you can install yourself, but it's nice to have a contractor do it, as they can run an OTDR on the install when done to verify it's clean/low loss/etc. That's what I did for one of my clients. Had a contractor come in, she terminated the end connectors, ran OTDR, e-mailed me the results, and charged a very minimal amount (plus showed me the entire termination process).

There are companies that sell preterminated fiber with "pull ends" that are designed to be yanked through conduit.
 
you don't have to place the modem next to the dish.
a 350' coaxial run from the dish to your modem(in your house) should be okay. don't need to run ethernet directly to the dish.
only hassle is trenching and laying conduit on your property.

Actually microwave satellite signals are extremely weak and a long cable pull is the last thing you want to do especially if your signal is on the weak side to begin with.

Minimum pull distance and a low-loss special coax cable are recommended.
 
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