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Come on......
Read the OP's posts. He's obviously savvy with computer parts, and knows how to read temps, voltage, knows how to overclock (presumably), and obviously how to put together a fanless watercooling system together vis a vi the reserator.
You're telling me somewhere along the way, after the OP's research into which components to buy and how to build the thing, he just happened to miss the part about using Artic Silver 5 or some other appropriate TIM when mating contact sufraces to the CPU heat spreader???
Give me a break. This thread reeks of flame bait.
lol after reading this tread, i'm going to try it with a cheap C2D.
...
Now you have a cpu melted to a waterblock base. Should give good temps no?
lol after reading this tread, i'm going to try it with a cheap C2D.
lol after reading this tread, i'm going to try it with a cheap C2D.
Here's my plan
Steps
1. Take base plate off Apogee GT
2. Flip base plate and put it on my flat grill ^_^
3. Heat up the GT base until solder floats onto it (only a little bit like a AS5 drop in the center)
4. Keep base hot on grill
5. Pickup cpu with pliers and have the IHS aimed at the melted
6. Slowly align and place cpu onto the GT base flattening out the solder (<10 secs)
7. Turn of heat quick and cool the cpu with a high speed fan (< 30 secs)
8. Put waterblock together
9. take off motherboard cpu retension flip
Now you have a cpu melted to a waterblock base. Should give good temps no?
ok here's how you do it, take some super glue, mix it with vasaline, then, lather it on to your CPU with your finger, use a glove too, now, clamp the heatsink on quickly after.Hi, I'm new at this overclocking. A couple weeks ago I broke my computer because of too high temperature even when I'm using Zalman Reserator.
What is the best way to melt the CPU inside the heatsink? Can you just put solder between them and melt them together? I have WBT Silver Solder.
Are there any places where I can buy modded CPU's from?
ok here's how you do it, take some super glue, mix it with vasaline, then, lather it on to your CPU with your finger, use a glove too, now, clamp the heatsink on quickly after.
Hope that works!
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Hahahaha, check this out: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11465104#post11465104Guys this patrick82 guy is some kind of troll putz.
I did a search on teh Google. I found a few other troll threads on other hardware enthusiast forums, as well as on some audiophile forums.
His audiophile stuff seems to be knowledgeable and sane. However everytime he comes to a hardware enthusiast site/forum, his stuff is so ridiculous it's almost comical. I'm not sure if its intentional or if he's just insane.
Look at this gem, entitled "Which hard drive is best for sound?" In which he claims his hard drive was making his music sound "edgy" until he underclocked his system.
http://forums.storagereview.net/index.php?showtopic=25609&mode=threaded
No, I'm not joking. I'm always serious with all my hobbies. As you can see from the pictures of my audio hobby, I mutilate everything for better audio: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=881010
I completed my audio hobby and now it's time for another hobby. Based on my experience with audio I know that having paste (QuickSilver Contact Enhancer) in between connections gives worse sound even when it makes the contact area bigger. Hardwiring everything with solder improves the sound. Many audiophiles do that.
Maybe I entered the wrong forum, I though this forum was for hard tweakers who are serious about their systems.
Instead of polishing the CPU like sissy girl, why not remove the paste and make a proper connection? I don't see what is the problem. Why don't the CPU manufacturers integrate the CPU and heatsink together instead of giving primitive cooling that you need to attach with paste?
Ok, so they put the TIM and IHS there as protection for the HSF? Is it because the CPU is sensitive to vibration from the fan? Why not just hang the fan so it's not touching the heatsink? The case would be completely passive without any vibrations. I will use Magix magnetic levitation feet for the chassis to also stop ground vibrations.I'm still not fully convinced you're serious, so I hope I don't make an ass of myself by replying to this, but keep in mind that a normal setup goes:
actual core >> thermal paste >> heatspreader >> thermal paste >> heatsink.
-or- if you're a fan of TLAs (three-letter-acronyms):
CPU >> TIM >> IHS >> TIM >> HSF
Even if you have a solid metal connection between the IHS and the HSF, the heat transfer will still be impeded (albeit not by much) by the contact between the core and the IHS. And putting metal straight onto the die would be a bad idea. Just keep in mind that this would still not make a "perfect" heat conductor.
If there is an actual problem, then it's time to go to the next step in troubleshooting.
I have my whole audio system levitating, it gives better sound.DUDE WTF? Are you an alien? It seems like you have no common sense, no offense. Us earthlings don't use strange feet for our cases, or at least to my understanding we don't...
The paste is there to fill in the imperfections right? So if you remove the imperfections you get better heat transfer and you don't need any paste. To get proper heat transfer you need to have the CPU and heatsink made from one piece.No, the thermal paste is there so there is the best possible heat transfer between the chip and the heatsink.
Ok, so they put the TIM and IHS there as protection for the HSF? Is it because the CPU is sensitive to vibration from the fan? Why not just hang the fan so it's not touching the heatsink? The case would be completely passive without any vibrations. I will use Magix magnetic levitation feet for the chassis to also stop ground vibrations.
In audio they sometimes put goo between components on the PCB to reduce vibrations.Please, stop making a fool of yourself. The IHS is not there because of vibrations. The IHS is there because otherwise people could damage the chips themselves, cracking them, chipping them, shorting the pins, etc. It has nothing to do with vibrations. As said, it is possible to remove the IHS and mount it directly, but there is NO NEED to do this in your situtation. While you may consider yourself very serious about your hobbies, you need some help with your computer construction skills. It can be very simple to do once you learn, but you are obviously having some difficulties.
I have followed the directions closely for 4 years ever since I built my first computer. I use Isopropyl alcohol with Q-tips to clean both surfaces before I put the Arctic Silver on. Then I use a plastic card and a thin layer of paste. But I don't like the end result, I tried for hours and it didn't get good.Get a friend who has a successfully hand-built computer to help you mount the heatsink. Use your XP-120 and the Papst fan, and also use artic silver 5. Make sure you and your friend are following the directions VERY CLOSELY. You should first clean your processor and heatsink of ALL GOOP AND THERMAL PASTE using rubbing alcohol and coffee filters (they are dust-free). Do not touch the surface where they mate. Then, follow both the instructions for the Artic Silver5 and the XP120 mounting for your processor. You will not need to use much paste, it is usually around the size of an uncooked grain of rice and a half. If your ambient temperatures are around 27 or 28C, your processor really should not idle above 40 on the XP120 with stock clocks and voltages.
Also, make sure the airflow going INTO and OUT OF your case is completely clear. You also need at least one 80MM fan exhausting from your case. Maybe if you post some pictures of hour your computer is positioned, and the build inside, maybe we can help diagnose what you are failing to do.
If you still don't understand that, or choose not to ask for help from a friend, I have two other points of advice for you.
A) take your computer parts to a computer shop or computer repair place, and get them to set it up properly for you
B) sell all the parts, and buy a pre-built computer.
It was already proven I'm not a troll but people still keep calling me that.Just Google "patrick82" you'll find this guy is a well-known forum troll, he putzes around on various forums making thinly veiled advertisements for audio products.
On this forum though, which is not strictly for audiophiles, he had to make up some PC-related nonsense to try and veil his poor attempts at advertisement, unfortunately for him, his rambling just makes him look crazy, as he doesnt know enough about PC hardware to fool anyone.
Patrick, I think it's enough now. You made your point that you have nothing better to do than to make an account on various forums and waste your time making yourself look foolish.
It stops being funny when people realize everything I said was true. It happens in every forum I visit.I don't think the people here are amused by it anymore, so please take it somewhere else. Or maybe go out and play with your buddies or something.
One question.. Are you rich? Where do you get all this money from?