Massive's X-Qpack teaser pics.

MassiveOverkill

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She's not finished yet, I'm currently leak testing her, but here's some foreplay pics of my water-cooled X-Qpack:

Polished Chasis

PolishedChasis.jpg


120mm Radiator, ignore the temporary air-cooled heat sink used for bench testing.

MiniGamer120mmRadiator.jpg


80mm intake hole

80mmIntake.jpg


Backing plate for 80mm filter (had to cut to clear mobo)

NoClearance.jpg


FanFilterBacking.jpg


CPU water block

CPUWaterBlock.jpg


80mm rad, no fan yet

80mmRadiatorNoFanYet.jpg


Fan installed.

80RadiatorFanInstalled.jpg


I would have liked to add a spacer here, but room didn't permit. Frankly I had a hell of a time finding where to put this. I originally wanted to install it at my bottom 80mm intake opening, but there just wasn't enough clearance as the rad is slightly larger than 80mm.

When I mounted it where I have it now, I realized I had a brain fart and my firewire/USB/mic/line-in ports were in the way. Since my mobo doesn't have firewire, and the other inputs could be relocated, I removed the header alltogether. I'll post more pics later, but I still have alot of work ahead of me

I'll be temporarily using the onboard video (got ~15K in Aquamark) for right now until I get my Abit Radeon X800XL VIVO............btw, this water cooling kit does come with a GPU water block but I have it hanging in the chasis for now.
 

CrimsonFury

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Awesome work.

Why not mount the 80mm intake and the 80mm radiator to the front of the case? From the pics it looks like there would be plenty of room.
 

MassiveOverkill

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Thanks. Look closer at the pics. Part of the gutted 80mm fan had to be chopped to make it clear the motherboard:

NoClearance.jpg


The 80mm rad is actually bigger than 80mm square, it's more like 84mmx90mm.

The ATX power connector is right there too, so there really is a clearance issue. It doesn't matter though, the 80mm rad is close enough to the 80mm intake as well as the side panel vent that it will suck in fresh air.
 

MassiveOverkill

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Mabrito

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Very nice. Exspecially with that case you need a good cooling solution. If you get it all organized in there, temps should be very good and look very nice. Keep up the good work.
 

PC-HAngover

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Can't wait to see the results.. I plan on watercooling mine in a few months, so good luck my man!
 

MD_Willington

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Looks almost like a "How To" manual for a system I'd like to build...

So what did you use to polish the chassis?

MD
 

MassiveOverkill

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MD_Willington said:
Looks almost like a "How To" manual for a system I'd like to build...

So what did you use to polish the chassis?

MD

Thanks guys..........Mother's aluminum polish. So far CPU temps are about 38C idle and 50C load, that's without the VGA waterblock being hooked up. I'm going to remove my IHS, as I dropped CPU temps 10 degrees on my 3000 Venice. I'm going to take a shower and then post final pics.
 

BurntToast

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Hey Massive, how high have you been able to get your 3000+ Venice on that Jetway a210gdms-pro with the water cooling? 2.0ghz, 2.2ghz, 2.4ghz???

Oh and do you care to tell your secrets for the bios oc? Since Im 75% on deciding to go with a jetway or not.

Thanks
 

MassiveOverkill

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Actually the 3000 Venice is in my DFI rig.........my 3200 Venice in my Q pack is at a lowly 266x10 = 2.66 Gjz. I speculate this purely the limitation of the motherboard as I think this would easily do 300x9 or maybe even higher.

This mobo is like every other lackluster OC'ing board........not too much to it.............DFI really is the ultimate overclockers mobo, but DFI is too damn stubborn to make a SFF socket 939 mobo...............and they have the balls to call their motherboards Lan Party.

i think the JetWay is the best board to get right now for AMD.
 

BurntToast

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Hum because if i get the jetway I was thinking of getting the 3000+ venice to stick in it. ANy guess as to how it would do? Does anyone herethat you know of own a jetway and 3000+ that is overclocked?

Thanks
 

MassiveOverkill

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Pics as promised:

80mmFanFilterbottomshot.jpg


CompleteLeftSide.jpg


I removed the stock 120mm fan grill........wasn't that restrictive, but the steel grill does flow better and gives a little better structural integrity to the case as well.

RearShot.jpg


You can see I blocked off the removed firewire/USB/Mic-in/Line-in ports and also mounted my dual-dual CC light switches in the 3-1/2" bay cover (Cold Cathodes have UV and regular bulbs in each)

FrontShot1.jpg


RightShot.jpg


120mmRadiatorSideShot.jpg


TopShot.jpg


Here you can see the exposed reservoir and where I hid the wires. I had to cut the back of the bay off for clearance, but left the top panel intact to hide the ugliness.

WhereWiresHideReservoir.jpg


My camera sucks at taking night pics. Light is much dimmer than pic shows and the color is purple (combination of water wetter and UV blue dye)

NightShotLeftSide.jpg


Some side-by-side shots of my rig waiting to be sold, and my new slimmer Lan gaming rig.

SidebySide2.jpg


SideProfile.jpg


Easy HD drive access/backup.........SATA is the way to go baby. No more popping the side panel off to hookup a HD......no messing with external enclosures either. Nice and simple........I can even hook up a second optical drive for clone-at-once copying.

EasyHDhookup2.jpg
 

Mabrito

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Very nice job. Its kinda cluttered in there though isnt it. As long as everything is running cool, I dont see it being a problem.
 

MassiveOverkill

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Oh yeah, current temporory specs of my system:

Jetway A210GDMS-Pro AMD socket 939 mobo with integrated X300 video with 32megs onboard dedicated DDR RAM, with up to an additional 128 shared. I scored ~15,500 in Aquamark with it, which is impressive for onboard video.

Venice 3200 CPU running 266x10 at 1.55 Volts 38C/50C (probably drop 10C once I removed the IHS)
Evercool EC-WC-202 heavily modded water cooling kit.
1 Gig Adata PC4200 running 225 at 2.5 CAS, 1T, and the rest of the timings are dog slow.
WD 40 gig IDE HD on SATA adapter
Lite-On 38X burner
Rosewill 500 watt power supply.

Upgrades within a week or two will be:
Remove the integrated heat spreader and void my warranty in typcial geek fashion.
Possibly 1 gig of some OCZ RAM
Relocate 200 SATA Seagate from main rig and add another Seagate 250gig SATA
LG DVD burner............going with this over the NEC 3540 because it's smaller by 5mm and also does DVD-RAM
Fortron Blue Storm 500 watt power supply
Abit Radeon X800XL VIVO..........going with this one because it already has RAM sinks, which are seperate from the main HS.
 

PC-HAngover

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Soo what I am trying to figure out is if a regular radiator like a 120 mm DangerDen rad wouldl fit in the back without too much modification?
 

MassiveOverkill

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Only if you mount it externally. If you mount it externally, you'll probably have to remove the radiator mounting bolts to get the cover off.
 

PC-HAngover

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Hmm this watercooling kit looks interesting but are the blocks really that good? What about the pump, etc? It just seems to look cheap.
 

CrimsonFury

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MassiveOverkill said:
Thanks. Look closer at the pics. Part of the gutted 80mm fan had to be chopped to make it clear the motherboard:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v632/MassiveOverkill/NoClearance.jpg

The 80mm rad is actually bigger than 80mm square, it's more like 84mmx90mm.

The ATX power connector is right there too, so there really is a clearance issue. It doesn't matter though, the 80mm rad is close enough to the 80mm intake as well as the side panel vent that it will suck in fresh air.

I think you misunderstood my question. I mean rotate the radiator 90 desgrees and bolt it to the front of the case, so that it sucks air in through the front panel.

From the pics of your cut up fan holder it looks like about 70mm from the front of the case to the mobo. The thickness of the radiator + fan looks like less than 70mm

Do you know if that 120mm radiator is available seperately? I would be interested in using that radiator with one of these swiftech kits http://www.swiftnets.com/products/h20-120-r3a-0.asp
 

MassiveOverkill

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PC-HAngover said:
Hmm this watercooling kit looks interesting but are the blocks really that good? What about the pump, etc? It just seems to look cheap.

The water blocks are copper............as are the radiators (well the 80mm rad is copper tubed, but aluminum finned). The pump in this particular kit has 40% increased flow over the Kingwin AWC-1, which is in my full tower rig. Neither pump is gonna flow like the pumps in full-blown water cooling kits and I'm not saying this kit performs like the self-made water cooling kits. It does perform as good or better than the best air-cooling.

The only things I don't like about this kit is the silicon tubing, which is permeable to water vapor, so you have to refill every two weeks, but that's easily fixed by replacing with vinyl tubing (costs $.14/foot at your hardware store), and the 120mm rad mounted in the 5-1/4" bay gets poor airflow if you leave it mounted there.
 

MassiveOverkill

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The problem with mounting it 90 degrees is cutting the front panel. The front panel isn't flat, so getting a good-looking hole is going to be hard. Plastic isn't forgiving to screw-ups. The other problem is that with the fan mounted 90 degrees, you still have clearance issues with the motherboard. It may fit, but it's going to be pretty tight.

The problem with using that radiator in typical H20 setups are the adapters are only 3/16th" diameter, while the smallest typical tubing size/adpaters are 3/8th". The 120mm rad isn't available seperately because it's mounted in the bay reservoir. The 80mm rad is available seperately though.
 

woodix

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Massive,

First up, nice work. I've been thinking about doing this since I saw my first link to xpack. I'd like to propose an alternative configuration for consideration. Hang a single 120mm rad on a swiftech radbox on the back of the chassis. Run the tubing through the plate above the motherboard (see shots of the case) to get inside. A bit of C Channel tubing would guard the tubing and clean up the look. From there, a similar approach but I'd try it with the swiftech bay mounted 350 pump and res combo. I don't know if that would fit though. Can you provide us a measurement from the front of the chassis to back (inside) and from front of chassis to front of PSU? Assuming one didn't have to cut way down to make it all fit, you could run one line back to rad and one line down to 1/2 or 3/8 block of choice (don't recall if the swiftech gear comes in only one or the other) and from the block back to rad. Getting the vpu into the loop could be a real bitch to pull off but the extra room in front where you have an 80mm rad might make good space to run tubing back to wherever it need to reach.

Also, with regard to wire management, once you get everything sorted and you know it's working, you may want to shorten/prune the PSU. The fewer wires you have running around the better right?

Overall, top notch. Very inspiring.
 

BurntToast

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I thought about getting a "better" water cooling unit myself for the x-qpack, but since im taking my computer on the plane as a carry on, i need to watch every free inch that i have. so i went with the cooler massive went with. Plus for the price its a pretty kickin deal.
 

PC-HAngover

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I think what I am going to do is use a 120mm to 80mm adapter and use a Danger Den Micro 80 mm rad with a 120mm fan on the rear, and also use that new little box pump that DD released, as well as a T-line, and of course top-of-line blocks.
 

CrimsonFury

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woodix said:
Hang a single 120mm rad on a swiftech radbox on the back of the chassis.


The problem with that setup is that using when using a radbox the radiator fan won't be sucking any air from the case (all the air is sucked in through the sides of the rad box), so the HDDs and northbridge will run hotter unless you water cool those too.
 

MassiveOverkill

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Thans Woodix. I thought about an extrernally mounted rad, but for me, it makes that component vulnerable to damage, but I'm sure the Swiftech rad would do a better job.

The overall length inside is 13", and it's 7.5" from the front to the power supply.
 

woodix

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Excellent point with regard to cooling. Massive, please forgive the threadjacking but i wanted to throw out another idea since it sounds like I'm not the only one considering the xpack. The voyuermods solution seems to be somewhat appropriate in that they just use screws to put some distance between the external rad and the back of the chassis. Looks like they use a customized shroud to prevent leakage from the back of the rad to the chassis. the Internal 120 still pushes warm air towards it...which I think isn't so good....but an option.

I'll have to go look at the pics again, but perhaps fan-based cross ventilation would be the answer given the lack of space for additional WC components?
 

ND40oz

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BurntToast said:
Hum because if i get the jetway I was thinking of getting the 3000+ venice to stick in it. ANy guess as to how it would do? Does anyone herethat you know of own a jetway and 3000+ that is overclocked?

Thanks

I got a 3000+ Venice on stock cooling 267x9 @ 2.4 GHz. I'm using wireless with it, so i'm not sure if my onboard ethernet still works. It is primestable for atleast 2 hours, haven't run it longer, I need some AS5 though, my temps are hitting 57-58 during prime. Also, I'm using the 4x HT as the 3x wouldn't let me get past 250.
 

leoflc

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I'm just wondering what's the noise level for this setup?
The 12mm rad is so close to the fan, will it make noise because of air drag?

About the tubing, do you still need to refill the unite after you changed the tubing?

Thanks a lot.

bty, what kind of fan shroud is that?
 
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