I would mount the hdplex next to the motherboard. You have to remove the front i/o.
On the actual position the powerboard will die a heat death. Believe me i use this board in my prototyp and it will need cooling. Otherwise you will reduce the lifetime of it.
rawrr said:Runamok, which riser are you using?
I'm assuming you have your Ram, Xeon CPU, and OS with you, or it's still in shipping. There's a chance that this build (without any big modifications) can be finished before the end of next week (if we're lucky and all the parts come in on time). I'd really love to see what this thing looks like when it's finished.
And just a quick question... I've asked you this before, but you didn't really give me a clear answer. How did you mount the DC board to the case? Did you have to drill some holes through the front side of your case?
DonDan said:I would mount the hdplex next to the motherboard. You have to remove the front i/o.
You sir are a genius!
I was planning this whole elaborate design where I have to cut the rear panel out and flip it and find a way to remount it, and now I just flip a bracket, no cutting involved.
Question: If you take the stock fan off the GPU heat sink, is there enough space above it to fit a 25mm thick fan like the one you have on the CPU heat sink?
Oh my, that looks beautiful! Are you actually going to be using that fan as an exhaust or will you flip it?
Ah, the fan orientation above is only to show that a 92mm will nestle down into the stepped heatsink. Wasn't paying attention to airflow direction. I believe -if replaced- we'd want the keep the fan blowing down onto the GPU.
For those considering a GPU fan swap, consider that the stock fan is voltage controlled (3 wire). The replacement fan would need to have a similar fan profile (how to tell?).
Option 3: Use metal snips to cut the fins down on the heatsink to make room for a 120mm 25mm thick fan.
Also, you don't have to have the fan hooked into the fan header on the GPU. In my current build i just have a 120mm fan ducted onto the GPU heatsink and its just connected straight to a normal 4 pin molex connector on the PSU at a constant fan speed (800rpm).
I may just go with the ZOTAC ZT-90101-10P or the Galax GTX970 OC. It looks like the heatsinks on them are the same height all the way across. The zotac is a little too long (203mm) by default, but i have a feeling if you take the stock fans/shroud off it'll save about an inch and fit. The more i learn about the Gigabyte 970 itx card, the more i don't like about it.
I found this tonight: http://www.logicsupply.com/components/cases/expandable/mc600/
Dimensions (WxHxD) 334 x 64 x 198 mm / 13.1 x 2.5 x 7.8"
It's 4.2L large. You lose the internal PSU capability from the prototype steam enclosure Valve made, but if you can power it with an external brick then its got the form factor.
You could use a Pico PSU with an AC adapter like this which would give you enough power for a 65w intel CPU and a 75w GPU: http://www.mini-box.com/12v-16A-AC-DC-Power-Adapter
Then if you want a faster GPU, just buy a second AC adapter, and hook the 12v line straight to the PCI-E plugs on the graphics cards. Might have to make a custom adapter to go from the 4pin plug to the PCI-E plugs.
So far this is the closest I've found to a console sized pc case that can fit a dual width full height graphics card.
If you don't mind me asking, what was the volume or dimensions you ended up having for your case layout? I would opt for a power-board/external power brick solution if only this was just $30 or so more over an sfx/sfx-l psu. Also the fact that users are limited to a 330w dell power brick is annoying.
Hopefully, maybe manufacturers catch on that people may want a Steam Machine PC case and then there would be more choices to choose from.
I'm still planning and designing, but right now the dimensions are 191x190x90, all in millimetres. That yields a volume of ~3.3L. I guess I'll make a build log when I get started!
Also, how much are SFX PSUs in the US? Here the 450W is £80, and the 600W is £100. The HDPLEX and brick combo is ~£95. As you can see, not much difference
Anyway, remember that the combo can power up to 400W with adequate cooling. That should be more than enough for a decent (power efficient) SFF build.
Sou you're putting the GPU above the mainboard like the A4 does?
And yes, that the HDPLEX can output quite a bit more if it is actively cooled is pretty overlooked fact.
Where did you find the hd-plex/dell 330w brick for that cheap?! I live in the U.S. and the cheapest I can find is $100 or so for the power brick and $85 for the hd-plex.
The only problem i can see with using the Galaxy or the Zotac is you'll need to modify a bracket if you want to switch its orientation since its not symmetrical like the Gigabyte pci bracket. I may just buy a blank double bracket and mod the i/o holes into it for what i need.
I wonder if it might be possible to get someone from these forums with the ability to make something like this to do either custom orders or small batch orders for pci brackets that flip the orientation of the graphics card for different graphics card i/o's.
You've got it!
It's basically an A4 for short video cards, except I'm doing some creative stuff with the psu placement.
Runamok, any updates on the build? Did you finish it?
I could probably carry on with the tin foil vinly getup, but I went ahead and ordered a custom 250mm R-Type PCIe riser from LiHeat. eBay link. It's half the price of the fancy 3M cables and it is PCIe Gen 3.0 "verified." We'll see how it compares to my tinfoil vinyl job when it lands next week.