Lone Industries L2: Dual slot version of L1 anyone?

Stevo_ said:
Back in business! A bunch of little but tedious things to take care of on the move from the L1, still need to install video card(wanted to get back to baseline first with new PSU) and final cable management run(power cable in front will move to the back and bundled). PSU will be thermal padded to the front of the case.
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How did you mount the HDPlex psu?
 
andgo said:
How did you mount the HDPlex psu?
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It's not really mounted yet but will be using a Fujipoly thermal pad, double sided sticky .

dondan said:
Looks very nice.

By the way you have to thank me, because i said Larry from HDPlex to make the pcb of the DC-Board black, using a mosfet heatsink and i manage the support for PSU bigger than 240W. Because the prototyp i got from him has a Jack-Expander (the little white board) with a center pin set to 19V. But the center-pin has to set to ground to tell the external psu (Dell 330W) to run in the 330W mode and not in 240W mode.

Much fun with the hdplex dc-board :)
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Consider yourself thanked! Heat sinking working well, can actually touch components on this board. Due to the size of my fan that little jack mount board just barely fit plus had to pull in the screw mounts while unsoldering to the match the 19mm c-c DIN holes on the case.

Note to Lone consider making the DIN holes 3mm friendly.

EDIT: Ran Prime95 and Kombustor at the same time, all voltages stable. Doing that with HD4000 was very choppy, everything smooth with 750 Ti vid card. Box would be dead silent without vid card but mostly air-noise from the high RPMs, no buzziness to the fan on mine may try an inline resistor.
 
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andgo said:
Alright, I also thought of just doing the same!
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It's not very sticky but pretty much doing the job

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@Stevo_, Hmm... the powder should be the same as before. Where are you finding wear issues? Even though it's powder coat, it does still require special care, like placing a cloth or something between the case and your desk to prevent scuffing.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll make a note to look at making the holes 3 mm friendly. :)

Can't believe how thin those Akasa fans of yours are! I wonder how they compare to 80x25 mm fans for moving air.
 
I think it was just a couple of small blemishes really that appeared to be peeling, seems to be OK overall though and nothing shows. One is at that upper left screw hole in the pic above.

These Akasas actually push air rather well considering and they barely protrude beyond the flange. Seemed to be pretty close to the Noiseblockers as far as flow.
 
Kinda looks like hanging marks. Since they plug the threaded holes, there can also be buildup of powder which can sometimes chip away farther than the hole itself. Powder coating is really scary for me. I'm totally at the mercy of the powder coater. Even if they do an excellent job, which I felt the L2 was, there's still going to be small imperfections from hanging, plugging, and limitations of the process. Anodizing has it's own set of issues, otherwise I would've switched to anodizing. :)

I received some NF-R8 redux-1800 PWM fans last week. I'm extremely happy with them. It's the first fan I've purchased that actually spins slow and quiet (961 RPM) out of the box without the need for a low noise adapter. How fast do your Akasa fans spin at idle? Do you use any resisters or software to adjust their speed?
 
No worries, I've had bike frames powder coated and it's the same way kind of a roll of the dice especially on plugging things up like BB threads.

I'm not sure what speed the Akasas are running at I have everything on the CPU header and the only fan monitored is the Prolimatech and that lumbers along at ~400RPM with no resistor. I do have a resistor inline on the Akasas those are rated 600-3000 RPM so I'm guessing something in the same range(they weren't bad without the resistor but it keeps them quiet longer up the curve). I use the Asus FanXpert to program them and everything usually runs at the 20% level. The box would be dead silent without the video card, and that's not even that bad, more of an air rushing noise than actual fan motor noise like the ill-named Noiseblockers.

Had some Noctua A9x14s on my Node, they definitely make some nice gear.
 
Stevo_ said:
It's not really mounted yet but will be using a Fujipoly thermal pad, double sided sticky .



Consider yourself thanked! Heat sinking working well, can actually touch components on this board. Due to the size of my fan that little jack mount board just barely fit plus had to pull in the screw mounts while unsoldering to the match the 19mm c-c DIN holes on the case.

Note to Lone consider making the DIN holes 3mm friendly.

EDIT: Ran Prime95 and Kombustor at the same time, all voltages stable. Doing that with HD4000 was very choppy, everything smooth with 750 Ti vid card. Box would be dead silent without vid card but mostly air-noise from the high RPMs, no buzziness to the fan on mine may try an inline resistor.
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By the picture it looks like you are running the HD-plex 150 or 160W or are you running the 250W?

If you are running the 150/160W are you saying there are no issues with an overclocked 3770K and a 750ti? I have a 160W one on the way

I plan to mount the PSU using 3M VHB tape and the DC-DC jack using 3m VHB tape as well...or drill out the back of the case to fit the screws.
 
Daemos said:
By the picture it looks like you are running the HD-plex 150 or 160W or are you running the 250W?

If you are running the 150/160W are you saying there are no issues with an overclocked 3770K and a 750ti? I have a 160W one on the way

I plan to mount the PSU using 3M VHB tape and the DC-DC jack using 3m VHB tape as well...or drill out the back of the case to fit the screws.
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Yeah, a 160W just much easier than the 250W which would've required modding I think. I'm not OCing right now but here's a screen grab of H/W Monitor while running prime and kombustor torture tests, only ran a few minutes but everything seemed to peak out quickly.

torture_zpse7e47c29.png
 
Stevo_ said:
Yeah, a 160W just much easier than the 250W which would've required modding I think. I'm not OCing right now but here's a screen grab of H/W Monitor while running prime and kombustor torture tests, only ran a few minutes but everything seemed to peak out quickly.

torture_zpse7e47c29.png
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Well...that makes cpu purchasing easier...I guess I'll go for a non S and potentially a K-cpu!
 
@Stevo_, How are you liking the vented side panel? Have you had a chance to test solid vs vented side panel? And yes, I feel kinda silly that I don't have an L2 myself. :)
 
I really like the vented panel, haven't tried the solid one as the experiments I ran with my ghetto cardboard panel on the L1 showed the temps were noticeably better(plus the LED inside adds a soft power on indicator).

While I had everything apart I also re-seated the AXP100 cooler and while I was at it modded for interference and added the backplate as I noticed was some bowing of the mobo without it. I also had a feeling there was too much Thermal paste which there was, baseline is much better now. It used to get pretty toasty on Prime95 before, even with the ghetto panel. Now the cores seem to settle in to low 70s running prime, high 60s if kombustor is not running.

Can't believe you didn't hold one back, serious power achievable in a nice small case at least for the non-brickophobes among us :)
 
Stevo_ said:
Yeah, a 160W just much easier than the 250W which would've required modding I think. I'm not OCing right now but here's a screen grab of H/W Monitor while running prime and kombustor torture tests, only ran a few minutes but everything seemed to peak out quickly.
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Ah, yours is the 160W. I have the 250W. I think I will try and tape it vertically to where the HDD bracket is, if there is not room for it above like in your picture. Then I will put my SSD somewhere else... Maybe tape it to the side panel :)
 
Here's how I mounted the HD Plex 7.4mm jack board; while unsoldering the screw mounts on the outside and using some leather gloves turned them in to match 19mm c-c holes on DIN mount, also cut screw holes in the rubber washer used to hide the board and jack. Then worked 3mm screws into the DIN holes, they're pretty much self tapped now. A little crooked but not too bad.

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Was trimming the leads on my power LED tonight found out that the 5mm LED slips right in the RAM heatsink header, kind of a cathode/LED-strip look perfect brightness thru the vented panel. I think it's done, a 5.3L beastie.

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Been trying to figure out something with a spare bracket and USB connectors but very little headroom from the GPU heatsink to the extra bracket space. Had this ASUS front bay 2xUSB3 to 20-pin adapter that's fully enclosed just running the cable in above the brackets, at least I don't have to reach around to plug something in.

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Looks good Stevo_! That ASUS usb hub looks good. You could also get a monitor that has USB ports built-in. Could be a good excuse to buy a new monitor. ;)
 
Stevo_, that looks great!! I like how the blue light shines through a single line of openings in the vent.
 
ellroy80 said:
Stevo_, that looks great!! I like how the blue light shines through a single line of openings in the vent.
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Thanks! Quite pleased myself.

loneindustries said:
Looks good Stevo_! That ASUS usb hub looks good. You could also get a monitor that has USB ports built-in. Could be a good excuse to buy a new monitor. ;)
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Thanks! Actually this monitor has them but they're on the back and I'm using the keyboard one for the wireless mouse adapter. Just couldn't stand that motherboard 20-pin going unused :)
 
Have you considered trying running your system without the case fans to see how it works? I imagine you'd see a build-up of heat, but the CPU may still get enough cool air via the vented side panel.
 
It probably does get enough flow thru, but getting my fingers in there to disconnect the fans just isn't worth it at this point everything is really jammed up in that corner out of the way.
 
I hope to take some pictures tonight, but I will be building the following tonight:

MOBO: ASROCK H97
CPU: 4770S
RAM: SAMSUNG 8GB LP
SSD: SAMSUNG EVO 250GB
GPU: 750TI
COOLER: SAMUEL 17
PSU: 160XT
 
Here are some pictures, I just ordered some PWM Noctua redux fans as I see they seem to be recommended by others in this thread. Tell me what you think!

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Looking good so far, waiting to see how those new Noctuas look.


raymondo said:
Are those vented side panels the standard side panels now?
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The vented ones were like $25 extra on the last run(but you still got both versions with that). Email Lone to find out about the next run.
 
@Stevo_, Based on your suggestion, this is what I'm thinking of doing to support the 7.4x5.0mm DC input used on the HDPLEX 160W DC-ATX PSU. The obround cutouts are a little longer than necessary. I may change this:

https://flic.kr/p/onL7xS
 
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loneindustries said:
@Stevo_, Based on your suggestion, this is what I'm thinking of doing to support the 7.4x5.0mm DC input used on the HDPLEX 160W DC-ATX PSU. The obround cutouts are a little longer than necessary. I may change this:
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Looks good but I wouldn't get too carried away on it, the c-c was ~20mm on hd plex, more important was the 3mm hole can't guarantee the c-c on the hd plex. Appreciate the effort though. Thing is bending the mounts in, lined it up better with the DIN hole.
 
Yeah I did the vice grip delid and a few taps from a rubber mallet and it came free.
 
@updawg, What fan are you going with on the Samuel 17? Look forward to seeing the finished build, and getting any feedback you might have! :)
 
Finally got the Kill A Watt on the rig, here's idle and Prime95+Kombustor assuming an 80% overall efficiency(doubt it's that high) for the sake of argument and nice round numbers makes about 132W to the mobo peak power;

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loneindustries said:
Thanks Stevo_! Looks like the HDPLEX 160 is a great option.
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I was a bit curious myself about the amount of power these systems burn after hearing other reports of CPU/GPU combos on the 160XTs. Then I was at Frys last week and they had these P3s marked for $19 something which I thought was not bad, then it scanned as $15 something at the register, done and done. Only thin not so good on the HD Plex is the thermal pad isn't sticking well at all, but at least it runs cools and sits in place. The +12V is a tad high out of spec 12.7-12.8V normally.
 
Lone, does it look like you're going to have another revision or production run?
 
Stevo_ said:
I was a bit curious myself about the amount of power these systems burn after hearing other reports of CPU/GPU combos on the 160XTs. Then I was at Frys last week and they had these P3s marked for $19 something which I thought was not bad, then it scanned as $15 something at the register, done and done. Only thin not so good on the HD Plex is the thermal pad isn't sticking well at all, but at least it runs cools and sits in place. The +12V is a tad high out of spec 12.7-12.8V normally.
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It's always nice when that happens! Is the thermal pad what you added, like a double sided tape? I could consider adding some standoffs. My only concern is however high the standoffs are is that much less clearance. Looks like the shortest standoffs I can get are 4 mm. As someone who's electrically challenged, you'll have to explain what the 12.7-12.8V out of spec means. :)

Lutfij said:
Lone, does it look like you're going to have another revision or production run?
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I'd like to produce another batch. It's a little early to say though. I was a little worried with Galaxy not having any stock of the 750 Ti Slim, but now that they have stock I feel a little better about producing more. I currently have a waiting list people can subscribe to.
 
Subsrcibed! For the sake of relevance and considering my previous outing, please give me a little more lea way...more than month prior to production so i can amass the dough :)
 
loneindustries said:
It's always nice when that happens! Is the thermal pad what you added, like a double sided tape? I could consider adding some standoffs. My only concern is however high the standoffs are is that much less clearance. Looks like the shortest standoffs I can get are 4 mm. As someone who's electrically challenged, you'll have to explain what the 12.7-12.8V out of spec means. :)
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For some reason that happens at Frys quite a bit for me. The thermal pad is a double sided sticky, it was OK at first but I knocked the board loose dicking around inside and since then not much in the way of stickiness, but have some thicker spares. I want to somewhat sleeve the ATX cable so I'll be in there one more time.

The ATX spec says 12V +/- 5% so 11.4V/12.6V, right now max load it maybe goes down to 12.6V but normally something around 12.7-12.8V. I'm not worried about it though, it's high by 7-8% if it was 10% or more I'd be sending it back.
 
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