LG Ultragear 27" OLED 240hz 1440P 27GR95QE-B

Glad you're overall liking the monitor, LittleBuddy!

Curious about your poor precalibration results - are you referring to the Gamer presets or sRGB being inaccurate? I have to say after calibration (also with the i1 Display Pro I believe), the sRGB setting (which remains out of the box) seems pretty close to what I got calibrated. I wonder how much variance there is between panels.

It'll be insane if they ever make a 32" 4K model similar to this, but I know 32" OLEDs aren't much of a thing yet.
sRGB is fairly accurate at high brightness, loses it's accuracy around 140 Nits and below. Gamer 1 was the one that shocked me with how bad it was because of how blue it is at default. I did manually calibrate it to make it more accurate so I have a color accurate native profile.

Incase you were curious, I did the following to correct Gamer 1 (at 150 Nits):
Energy Savings: Off
Brightness 70
Red 50
Green 49
Blue 42
Contrast 70
Gamma Mode 1

I'll probably manually calibrate Gamer 2 at 180 or 190 Nits this weekend.
 
sRGB is fairly accurate at high brightness, loses it's accuracy around 140 Nits and below. Gamer 1 was the one that shocked me with how bad it was because of how blue it is at default. I did manually calibrate it to make it more accurate so I have a color accurate native profile.

Incase you were curious, I did the following to correct Gamer 1 (at 150 Nits):
Energy Savings: Off
Brightness 70
Red 50
Green 49
Blue 42
Contrast 70
Gamma Mode 1

I'll probably manually calibrate Gamer 2 at 180 or 190 Nits this weekend.

Nice - thanks for sharing the settings. Yeah - Gamer 1 in SDR was fairly unusable out of the box for me since it's based on P3-D65 and I needed sRGB for SDR (so at first I used sRGB mode almost immediately and later after calibrating calibrated Calibration 1 to sRGB). I did calibrated Calibration 2 to P3-D65 in case I ever need it tho'.

I have no way to test this, but I felt in HDR, Gamer 1 feels more accurate than the SDR version, but that's pure opinion comparing Auto HDR of things like the desktop or Auto HDR supported games (though honestly for SDR games I tend to turn that off and just go HDR with native stuff; I just wanted to use Auto HDR to play around with).
 
I'm pressing hard for BFI eventually in OLED, but it won't be in this first generation of 240Hz OLEDs at this time.

That being said -- long term, strobeless blur reduction will be the way to go. BFI will be mainly useful only for framerate-limited content (retro content, video content), when all PC games implement this technology. An RTX 4090 can now do 4K 1000fps 1000Hz with that new reprojection software technology, ported from VR. Doing 1ms MPRT ergonomically strobelessly with the same motion clarity as strobing is now within the window of this decade's technology -- at least for PC gaming.
Even if half of that could be achieved in next few years, or even quarter of it on consoles it would be the best thing ever. Do you think the industry as a whole will go that way (pc and consoles to an extent)? I'm talking about frame generation in general, not necessarily in context of blur.

I know it is a bit off topic, sorry...
 
Nice - thanks for sharing the settings. Yeah - Gamer 1 in SDR was fairly unusable out of the box for me since it's based on P3-D65 and I needed sRGB for SDR (so at first I used sRGB mode almost immediately and later after calibrating calibrated Calibration 1 to sRGB). I did calibrated Calibration 2 to P3-D65 in case I ever need it tho'.

I have no way to test this, but I felt in HDR, Gamer 1 feels more accurate than the SDR version, but that's pure opinion comparing Auto HDR of things like the desktop or Auto HDR supported games (though honestly for SDR games I tend to turn that off and just go HDR with native stuff; I just wanted to use Auto HDR to play around with).

I just left gamer at default colorspace on Gamer, it's probably best to use the Calibration 1 and Calibration 2 for specific colorspaces. Even though it has processing latency, personally I can't tell the difference between DAS on or off.

I was able to get Gamer very accurate in sRGB with DisplayCal using an ICC profile but decided against it. Since I rather not have to manage the profiles.

If I were to use ICC profiles for Gamer I would probably do them in P3 at 2.2 gamma. I do wish there were actual gamma settings in the OSD other than "modes" with no description.
 
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I just left gamer at default colorspace on Gamer, it's probably best to use the Calibration 1 and Calibration 2 for specific colorspaces. Even though it has processing latency, personally I can't tell the difference between DAS on or off.

I was able to get Gamer very accurate in sRGB with DisplayCal using an ICC profile but decided against it. Since I rather not have to manage the profiles.

If I were to use ICC profiles for Gamer I would probably do them in P3 at 2.2 gamma. I do wish there were actual gamma settings in the OSD other than "modes" with no description.

Great info. Definitely agree on the Gamma modes. I know Gamer mode also has the advantage of apparently not triggering ABL at a full-field screen, and it's unfortunate you can't specify other modes to do that (not that it's bad most of the time, but I'd still turn it off if I could).
 
Great info. Definitely agree on the Gamma modes. I know Gamer mode also has the advantage of apparently not triggering ABL at a full-field screen, and it's unfortunate you can't specify other modes to do that (not that it's bad most of the time, but I'd still turn it off if I could).
I'm by no means an expert in calibration, I do graphic design so typically use sRGB/adobeRGB/CMYK. Maybe someone with more knowledge will post a definitive answer on which is best for color accuracy in games, I would assume targeting sRGB since most games are developed with it first then HDR dci-P3 is an afterthought. I'm just starting to like the P3 colorspace lately.

Is there a list of which modes use ABL?
 
I'm thinking people who say this monitor is too dim just don't know how to adjust the settings.
Does Nvidia control panel brightness make a difference?
 
I'm by no means an expert in calibration, I do graphic design so typically use sRGB/adobeRGB/CMYK. Maybe someone with more knowledge will post a definitive answer on which is best for color accuracy in games, I would assume targeting sRGB since most games are developed with it first then HDR dci-P3 is an afterthought. I'm just starting to like the P3 colorspace lately.

Is there a list of which modes use ABL?

Color accuracy is NOT accurate in Gamer 1 (SDR) for games since it's using the wrong color space - I can confirm that. Oranges were almost red and blues were way too blue, etc. On a certain level, it was appearing as I think the P3 colorspace looks really nice/poppy, but it is not accurate, which is important to me. For accuracy in SDR, you can calibrate yourself as you did (and I did eventually), or sRGB is quite good. As I mentioned before, you could also use a program to "clamp" Gamer mode to sRGB, and that would be an option too.

Like you, I didn't see a big difference between DAS on and off. Actually, I didn't notice a difference at all, but I might not be sensitive enough as I mostly play single player games so any reasonable input lag is fine for me.

I think all modes EXCEPT the Gamer modes (Gamer 1 I know; I'm assuming Gamer 2 as well) have ABL; where I read that (and I did try it after) specifically said Gamer 1. I tested this with a full-field white page and sure enough it didn't dim in Gamer but does (slightly) on sRGB and Calibration 1. I haven't yet tested to see if this extends to the HDR Gamer mode versions (but there are a lot fewer HDR modes - no sRGB for obvious reason, and no Calibration modes either).

I'm thinking people who say this monitor is too dim just don't know how to adjust the settings.
Does Nvidia control panel brightness make a difference?

If you're in a light controlled room, I really don't feel like brightness is a problem personally. SDR Calibration to 160 nits in a 10% window was no problem. Yes, there's some ABL at full-field, but it's really not bad IMO.

I think the nVidia settings just affect video playback, not general usage brightness.
 
I did the deed and bought through Best Buy. I had my eye on Oled technology like 15 years ago ever since it was introduced like on Zune MP3 players.
I own a Samsung AMOLED S9 Phone which I no longer use but the screen on that is pretty amazing compred to LCD screens I used. I probably owned at least 18 different LCD screens ove the years none of them were good untill I got a Asus VA panel for gaming I use that screen today but not for general use cause it's too bright. Use a 21.5" Asus TN 60hz for general use and text and the monitor is from 2011 and have two backups.
 
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Has anyone tried HDMI 2.1 cable instead of DP? Watched a review about it so just wanted to get some more opinions on it.
 
I did the deed and bought through Best Buy. I had my eye on Oled technology like 15 years ago ever since it was introduced like on Zune MP3 players.
I own a Samsung AMOLED S9 Phone which I no longer use but the screen on that is pretty amazing compred to LCD screens I used. I probably owned at least 18 different LCD screens ove the years none of them were good untill I got a Asus VA panel for gaming I use that screen today but not for general use cause it's too bright. Use a 21.5" Asus TN 60hz for general use and text and the monitor is from 2011 and have two backups.
Congrats! I hope you enjoy the monitor as much as I am. If you do have any issues, I've heard Best Buy has a pretty good return policy, so that should give you some comfort too.

I really, really tried to like two different 32" IPS panels before purchasing this one (one around the same price; the other much more expensive), and they both had too many compromises I just couldn't live with. I've still been learning about the panel, but I've liked it more and more the more I use it.
Has anyone tried HDMI 2.1 cable instead of DP? Watched a review about it so just wanted to get some more opinions on it.

I'm actually using an HDMI 2.1 cable right now, after having used DisplayPort the first week or so. I saw a review (don't remember who now...on YouTube tho') where they seemed to indicate gaming was better using HDMI (whatever they were doing, it seemed like the difference was dramatic), so out of curiosity I switched. Honestly, I haven't noticed a difference. Feels exactly the same in both, to be honest. I'm not sure if they had some weirdness with settings or what, or if their configuration was somehow different. That said, both DisplayPort and HDMI have worked equally well for me. I think HDMI 2.1 technically has more bandwidth, so I'll probably stick with it for now, but you should have a good experience with either.

By the way, I did have one small issue I forgot to mention here. Some games, when set to fullscreen native resolution (2560 x 1440) trigger a screen saying the monitor is not in it's native res (it thinks it thinks it's in 4K for whatever reason). There's just a warning that pops up on the bottom you can dismiss. It's not a big deal, but it can get annoying. There are two workarounds. You can play in 2560 x 1440 Windowed Fullscreen in most games, and it doesn't trigger, or there's a little software trick here that makes it go away permanently.

See this: https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/c...ed_27gr95qebaus_says_resolution_is_incorrect/
(The reply for CRU tells you what to do; you're basically just removing a few 4K TV resolutions from the computer's monitor profile).

It's a simple fix and does not modify the monitor at all; only how Windows sees it to prevent that from happening. (There's also a reset executable to undo any changes.) Seems like multiple LG monitors do this, so you'd think they'd be able to sort it out in firmware, but I guess it's been around a while for certain configurations. Has something to do with the 4K downscaling feature.
 
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Best Buy has a 15 day return only... I think people abused it too much. Geek Squad was 140.00.for 4 years I don't think they could fix anything monitor related.
 
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Best Buy has a 15 day return only... I think people abused it too much. Geek Squad was 140.00.for 4 years I don't think they could fix anything monitor related.
Wow - you're probably right about the abuse. =/ I know they used to be really good with things like dead pixels too.
 
Does the screen seem flimsy at all like it would break if you adjusted it wrong? I know OLEDs are designed to bend but not sure if this one is like that since it's flat.
I'm going to adjust it by the ports or the base so I won't crack it lol. Not sure if I'm more exciting about this monitor or the 4080 MSI Suprim I got a few months ago.
 
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Does the screen seem flimsy at all like it would break if you adjusted it wrong? I know OLEDs are designed to bend but not sure if this one is like that since it's flat.
I'm going to adjust it by the ports or the base so I won't crack it lol. Not sure if I'm more exciting about this monitor or the 4080 MSI Suprim I got a few months ago.

In a way this is a difficult question to answer. If you're used to other monitor techs, this thing is THIN (the bulge in back with the LED is thicker, but the screen itself is less than 1/4 of an inch ). That said, it still feels sturdy enough to me. I've turned it to page view a few times just to test it out and I never felt like I'd break it.
In contrast, one of the IPS models I tested was super heavy and I actually feel like because of the weight it moved more when I typed up a storm, even if that seems partially counterintuitive. This one's movement is hardly noticeable (slight if I'm really typing a lot).

Your mileage may vary, but I think it feels decently solid. The stand being metal definitely helps, as does the rather substantial back hexagon. Ports feel good and are fairly easy to access. Not a lot of cable management, but there is a clip for the stand to help. All in all, perfectly happy with the construction personally.
 
I'm actually using an HDMI 2.1 cable right now, after having used DisplayPort the first week or so. I saw a review (don't remember who now...on YouTube tho') where they seemed to indicate gaming was better using HDMI (whatever they were doing, it seemed like the difference was dramatic), so out of curiosity I switched. Honestly, I haven't noticed a difference. Feels exactly the same in both, to be honest. I'm not sure if they had some weirdness with settings or what, or if their configuration was somehow different. That said, both DisplayPort and HDMI have worked equally well for me. I think HDMI 2.1 technically has more bandwidth, so I'll probably stick with it for now, but you should have a good experience with either.

Thank you for the response. OUt of curiosity if you wanted to play 1920x1080 does it shrink the screen or stretch it out? I saw an Asus that shrunk from 27" down to 25" with bars around the image just to achieve 1920x1080. I just thought it was a cool feature.
 
Even if half of that could be achieved in next few years, or even quarter of it on consoles it would be the best thing ever. Do you think the industry as a whole will go that way (pc and consoles to an extent)? I'm talking about frame generation in general, not necessarily in context of blur.

I know it is a bit off topic, sorry...
It's a decadal plan (~2030).

Latency-reducing frame generation is actually mathematically possible (e.g. retroactive reprojection), which can rewind frametimes (e.g. 10ms) to input poll times (e.g. 1ms) by feeding the 6dof positionals into the frame generation engine in between the original generated frames. The vision is a multilayered rendering workflow where the GPU renders ultra-detailed frames at less frequent intervals (e.g. 100fps), and frames are perceptually (near) losslessly modified with ground truth (6dof positonals, from mouse/keyboard, including mouselook, rotations, and strafes).

Instead of forward-only reprojection used in VR, reprojection works in both directions of the time dimension, which is the magic piece of puzzle allowing low-framerate UE5-detail frames (e.g. 50-100fps) to get as low latency as input poll time (e.g. 1ms) at 1000fps 1000Hz. There is theoretically no limit to the ratio of frame generation (10:1 or even 20:1) but there is an artifacts tradeoff.

However, as long as the original rendering frame rate (that is feed stock for the reprojection engine) is well above the flicker fusion threshold (e.g. 100fps), you won't see the edge-vibrating stutter in reprojection. So reprojection artifacts gets relatively low if you're reprojecting from 100fps instead of 30fps or 50fps. So the vision is that 100fps is the rendering frame rate that will be reprojected to a higher frame rate.

So for 100fps -> 1000fps reprojection, it's possible for 10:1 frame rate generation, with 9 new frames for every 1 original rendered frame. APIs will need to layer on top of Vulkan / DirectX / OpenGL, to accept input-positionals during frame generation, for eliminating latency. So not only original rendered frame will have input polls, frame generation will also have input polls. This makes possible latnecy-reducing frame generation.

Initially this will hit only your locals (player position, mouse look, strafes, etc) doubling as a strobeless motion blur reduction technology too. But in the ultra-long-term, this may also be applied to enemy character movements (reducing their lag too), using advanced AI-based parallax compensation algorithms combined with the Z-buffer, for retroactive reprojection (rewinding frame rendering latency down to input poll latency, even for enemy positionals)

Some early demos will probably come out increasingly more often, but the GPU vendors does not want to sabotage the sales of their GPUs too quickly, so it will take time for them to make reprojection a widespread feature in PC based gaming.

This is still like a HDTV researcher talking about 1980s about the future, but it's coming by the 2030s.

Laboratory stuff FTW!
 
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Thank you for the response. OUt of curiosity if you wanted to play 1920x1080 does it shrink the screen or stretch it out? I saw an Asus that shrunk from 27" down to 25" with bars around the image just to achieve 1920x1080. I just thought it was a cool feature.

There are aspect ratio controls, but nothing like that per se. The options are "Full Wide", "Original", and "Just Scan." I honestly don't see a difference between Full Wide and Original (Just Scan is grayed out in all the resolutions I tried).

1920 x 1080 is a 16:9 resolution, so it fills the screen. Are you sure the ASUS you saw wasn't a nonstandard resolution like 16:10? I'm curious what would cause it to shrink down. I will say if you use a 4:3 resolution (800 x 600 for example), you do get the black bars on each side.
UPDATE: Oh, I think I figured it out! Learned something new too. So I'm on nVidia - it'll be different on AMD hardware probably, but if you go into the nVidia control panel and "Adjust Desktop Size and Position", you can actually control this behavior. Mine was set to Aspect Ratio by default, which stretches things out to the screen while preserving the proper aspect ratio. So 1920 x 1080 will still fill the screen (or a 4:3 like 800 x 600 will as far as it can, but preserve the black bars where it can't). If you set it instead to No Scaling, it'll do as you describe and those resolutions will just take up the proper number of pixels in the middle of the screen! Pretty cool!

Hope this helps!
 
I Screenshot_20230219-024417_Samsung Internet.jpg

On the 41inch Asus gaming monitor you can shrink the size down like 34, 27, or 24 not sure how it would look but at least the background is blacked out with empty space.
 
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I don't see that option for the LG. That said, that's basically how it looks when you switch nVidia's control panel to "No Scaling" and use a lower-than-native resolution, except it just fills whatever that resolution would natively take. But yeah, you get the black borders on all sides.
 
Wow didn't know it didn't have navigation buttons just the remote. I suppose I can order a spare down the road.
 
Wow didn't know it didn't have navigation buttons just the remote. I suppose I can order a spare down the road.

This is an odd choice. The remote is really nice to use, BUT it is a pain to HAVE to have it for some functions.

You can use the single button underneath for a FEW functions (input, volume up and down for the built-in speakers [which I don't use], brightness up and down), but it doesn't give you access to everything.

Another option is the Onscreen Control App, which gives you most (maybe all?) of that control back, plus a few other niceties, though I found it's rather sluggish so I only load it if I specifically want to use it. Specifically, it caused some lag when coming back from sleep (a few seconds of unresponsiveness). So if you lost your remote, you could use that temporarily for most things.
 
There is software to control I guess that works if the remote goes bad. The guy in the video I posted topside said newer LG OLED TVs remotes work with it as well he didn't show them in the video.
 
IMG_20230219_104452280.jpg

Looks Good so far didn't try HDR but the opening Hub for Darktide is plenty visible. I guess I need to do a two hour gaming marathon to get the gist of it. It's like looking at a piece of glass the matte isn't a problem. I had to turn the monitor down in actually to 60 and it's still bright enough for me. Text is good enough for me anyway.

The Battery thing in the remote I had it the wrong way at first turned the batter cage upside down and that did the trick was worried for a sec.
 
I never used HDR before do you always enable in Windows 11? I turned it off because it wasn't for me it did look ok in Deadspace.
Just got my PS5 hooked up to it the Sound was the biggest problem just had to enable it on the monitor and it worked with the Auxiliary cable on the bottom
it has HDR on by default the PS5 but turned it off just too bright for me. I don't think OLED is the answer for general use going to keep using my smaller monitors for that.

I wish the Stand went down maybe 1-2 inches more but LG is probably like we don't care Comixbooks. I can just raise my chair I suppose I can fit my entire Soundbar under the monitor there is so much room.

Update I might switch out the stand for a versa stand that goes lower a few inches.
 
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There are aspect ratio controls, but nothing like that per se. The options are "Full Wide", "Original", and "Just Scan." I honestly don't see a difference between Full Wide and Original (Just Scan is grayed out in all the resolutions I tried).

1920 x 1080 is a 16:9 resolution, so it fills the screen. Are you sure the ASUS you saw wasn't a nonstandard resolution like 16:10? I'm curious what would cause it to shrink down. I will say if you use a 4:3 resolution (800 x 600 for example), you do get the black bars on each side.
UPDATE: Oh, I think I figured it out! Learned something new too. So I'm on nVidia - it'll be different on AMD hardware probably, but if you go into the nVidia control panel and "Adjust Desktop Size and Position", you can actually control this behavior. Mine was set to Aspect Ratio by default, which stretches things out to the screen while preserving the proper aspect ratio. So 1920 x 1080 will still fill the screen (or a 4:3 like 800 x 600 will as far as it can, but preserve the black bars where it can't). If you set it instead to No Scaling, it'll do as you describe and those resolutions will just take up the proper number of pixels in the middle of the screen! Pretty cool!

Hope this helps!
SWEET! thanks again for your help!!!

Its an option for those that might not be able to get the frames @1440p
 
I never used HDR before do you always enable in Windows 11? I turned it off because it wasn't for me it did look ok in Deadspace.
Just got my PS5 hooked up to it the Sound was the biggest problem just had to enable it on the monitor and it worked with the Auxiliary cable on the bottom
it has HDR on by default the PS5 but turned it off just too bright for me. I don't think OLED is the answer for general use going to keep using my smaller monitors for that.

I wish the Stand went down maybe 1-2 inches more but LG is probably like we don't care Comixbooks. I can just raise my chair I suppose I can fit my entire Soundbar under the monitor there is so much room.

Update I might switch out the stand for a versa stand that goes lower a few inches.

You CAN use HDR all the time, but I don't. I prefer SDR for SDR content and HDR for *native* HDR content (Dead Space is a great example because it natively supports it in settings; some videos on things like YouTube are also a great example). Aside from HDR on and off in Windows 11, there's also an Auto HDR setting that will attempt to make non-HDR supported games into HDR. I personally would recommend you turn Auto HDR off all the time, but some people do like the effect. It can work well, but it can also do strange things, and in general I prefer to preserve the original intent. If something is SDR/sRGB, trying to make it into HDR can only make it less accurate to the creative intent.

One other thing I recommend is grabbing the "Windows HDR Calibration" app from Microsoft (it's free in the app store). It'll help you set the black levels and brightness levels appropriate to your display so HDR looks its best.

Similarly, if you use HDR on PlayStation, make sure to do the calibration/setup. You can also set PS5 to only do HDR on supported games and stay in SDR for SDR games I believe.

For Windows, the most annoying thing is that there's no mode in Windows to stay in SDR most of the time and auto-switch to HDR for supported games, so you have to switch HDR on manually before starting the game. But XBOX Game Bar (you don't have to have it up - it just works in the background if it's installed) has a nice little workaround. You can Press Windows Key + ALT + B to quickly toggle between SDR and HDR. Generally what I do is stay in SDR, and if I'm going to play an HDR-supported game, do the key combo right before launching. Seems to work great, even if I wish there was an autodetect native HDR feature.

Hope this helps!
 
WIN + ALT + B is a great keypress combination to memorize when using these OLED monitors!

Auto HDR works well in some games, such as Bioshock Infinite (older games are great demos of 240fps 240Hz at Ultra detail settings, for maximizing strobeless motion blur reduction)
 
View attachment 550268

Looks Good so far didn't try HDR but the opening Hub for Darktide is plenty visible. I guess I need to do a two hour gaming marathon to get the gist of it. It's like looking at a piece of glass the matte isn't a problem. I had to turn the monitor down in actually to 60 and it's still bright enough for me. Text is good enough for me anyway.

The Battery thing in the remote I had it the wrong way at first turned the batter cage upside down and that did the trick was worried for a sec.
Comixbooks Post some screenshots pictures of the game on the new monitor when you have a chance. I'm interested to see what the game looks like on this monitor. Enjoy!!!

Also looking back at the load screen it looks heavily tinted/skewed toward blues....is that a gamer setting?
 
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Comixbooks Post some screenshots of the game on the new monitor when you have a chance. I'm interested to see what the game looks like on this monitor. Enjoy!!!
Screenshotting won't do anything for you, as it will just show what the video card is outputting. A regular camera picture won't help much as it depends on how your display is configured for viewing his snaps.
 
Screenshotting won't do anything for you, as it will just show what the video card is outputting. A regular camera picture won't help much as it depends on how your display is configured for viewing his snaps.
Edited my post. I'm familiar with Darktide, so interested to see what the dark environment and frequent frantic game play will look like.
 
When you've take Photos of the screen it just looks bad for some reason looks nothing like that in person.
 
Yeah - I've never been good at being able to get an accurate pic of a screen either. My experience is it looks better in person than photos too.
 
Personally I do not recommend this monitor because it has near black color handling issues called "near black chrominance overshoot" which in LG OLED world go like way back.
Many years ago people reported this issue on LG TVs and from time to time LG claims firmware fixes (which rarely come or fix anything) and then they claim that next product line they release will have this issue mitigated or whatever. Then each year they release products with the same exact issue...


One could hope they fixed it on this monitor given its even never than C2 and which supposedly they have fixed it in C2 (according to LG at least...). Unfortunately they didn't do anything for this issue in their monitor range.

Will LG ever fix it?
Apparently it happens because W subpixel has this strong overdrive impulse and its engaged way too early. In gamer1 mode on 48GQ900 (which uses the same control electronics as this monitor) it doesn't happen when displaying fully saturated colors and only when White subpixel could be used. If they just used RGB subpixels for white until W subpixel if being used would reach the same level as is used for overdrive impulse then the issue would be fully fixed without having to do any dithering or other such things.

So why LG makes flawed products then?
Well, this is side effect of how corporations work. Until there is enough people complaining about something and countless meetings are held regarding the issue they won't fix things even if they already have fixes ready to deploy. This is because at such places management really doesn't care about quality of product and is actively discouraged from caring. What they shall do is what person above tell them do to and not manage their area well for the wellbeing of company by making great products.

So will they ever fix it? Probably never.
Maybe some other company using the same panel will fix it, though its not given since most such companies create products without any care or attention for quality. Its really the same problem with display manufacturers we always had. Often good products f***ed up by idiotic engineering decissions/issues which could be easily fixed but its always like no one cares - presumably because no one at these companies use their own products.
 
Personally I do not recommend this monitor because it has near black color handling issues called "near black chrominance overshoot" which in LG OLED world go like way back.
Many years ago people reported this issue on LG TVs and from time to time LG claims firmware fixes (which rarely come or fix anything) and then they claim that next product line they release will have this issue mitigated or whatever. Then each year they release products with the same exact issue...

IMO this isn't much of an issue in practice. Should LG fix it? Sure, but at least on the LG OLEDs I've owned I just haven't encountered this issue enough to be at all bothered by it. I see text rendering on this display a much bigger issue because DPI scaling isn't going to work well without reducing the desktop size too much.

I see all these 1440p OLEDs regardless of who makes the panel as gaming/media only displays whereas the CX/C1/C2/C3 at least can be used as a desktop display thanks to its 4K resolution. It's just disappointing that LG hasn't moved the needle at all this year for the 4K models in these smaller sizes - not any brighter, no higher refresh rate etc.
 
I'm wondering if this monitor will be comfortable for gaming. Usually don't game on my work days due to eyestrain. Right now I'm at work and I don't feel like I got blasted by it like a regular IPS. Planning on keeping HDR off off though.
 
IMO this isn't much of an issue in practice. Should LG fix it? Sure, but at least on the LG OLEDs I've owned I just haven't encountered this issue enough to be at all bothered by it. I see text rendering on this display a much bigger issue because DPI scaling isn't going to work well without reducing the desktop size too much.
It might not be the most visible thing at all times but as soon as it is its terrible. You can have game with nice black with giant bright bands around edges of barely brighter than black things eg. smoke completely ruining the scene.
The same band is also visible in any situation there is dark gradient which is changing. Also visible on edges of objects in dark scenes eg. faces.

This issue happens because of LGs chooise how to drive panel. It can be elliminated completely by using RGB pixels to generate darker shades of gray and only engage white subpixel past level where doing so would not require overdrive. It has been done before and all these monitors should be engineeredvright from the start this way.

Text clarity issues are caused by subpixel arrangement. White subpixel doesn't help here and to get monitors which have God text clarity we need RGB panels. Such RGP panel would not have issue I am complaining about either.
To me however text is ok on WOLED because I have my ways around it. Especially for 27 inch I wouldn't user it fortext given IPS can be had next to it easily. Too bad these monitors are not good even for videos or games with bright bands in dark scenes...
 
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