LG 48CX

Guys, what OLED light setting do you use for Windows use, like browsing etc?
I have 30 and its pretty dark. I feel like 80 is like normal LCD monitor. And this is in total dark room at night.
That's like...bright Best Buy store floor display bright... It's certainly possible to turn LCD monitors up that bright, but it's certainly wayyyyy above "correct" SDR brightness for them too. ~35 OLED light is correct SDR brightness.
 
Guys, what OLED light setting do you use for Windows use, like browsing etc?
I have 30 and its pretty dark. I feel like 80 is like normal LCD monitor. And this is in total dark room at night.
You must've burned your eyes or something. I use OLED light at 30 day and night and find it's fine on all but the brightest sunny days.
 
Guys, what OLED light setting do you use for Windows use, like browsing etc?
I have 30 and its pretty dark. I feel like 80 is like normal LCD monitor. And this is in total dark room at night.

Do you have HDR enabled? If you do then you need to adjust the SDR brightness slider. If you are running the TV in SDR mode then I'm not sure how 80 is useable.
 
80 in a dark room is nuts. I guess you can get used to just about anything though, some people do use their LCDs at max brightness (often the out of the box setting) day and night... In my personal experience even smartphones are often waaay too bright in dark rooms with automatic settings (also hurts battery life).

I'd venture a guess that's where a lot of the complaints about blue light effects (no such thing to worry about with OLED btw) and eye fatigue related to screen usage come from.
 
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Guys, what OLED light setting do you use for Windows use, like browsing etc?
I have 30 and its pretty dark. I feel like 80 is like normal LCD monitor. And this is in total dark room at night.
30 is what I'm using. You actually adjust to it after a day or two.
 
3.21.16 is available on engineering mode. Supposedly fixes game mode peak brightness and doesn't revert any of the other recent fixes.

Just tested for myself. It brought the completely reset calibration for HDR Game mode in Calman from 625nit to 750nit.

I did a full Autocal calibration and it came out a lot better. Whatever was dimming game mode was throwing off the entire calibration in the process and it's noticeably better now.
Its now also out on the Korean support site... so out of engineering ring. Available for download.
 
Regarding brightness, I keep HDR mode on all of the time and I had my windows HDR color brightness slider at 7 initially but now I keep it at 12 or 13 to more closely match my side (6100:1 contrast ratio) 60hz 4k samsung VA screens I use for desktop/apps.

I'm not using the OLED for desktop/apps really so I don't have to worry about it as much. When I put a 4k art slideshow, photos, or sdr video/streaming content on the OLED full screen I don't want the color brightness muted.
 
I use 50 OLED Light for both morning (with side window open) and night (not total darkness, I have some warm lights on).

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I'm thinking of getting a service remote to disable ASBL; it's so annoying for web browsing and desktop productivity lol. For anyone who has ASBL disabled for several months, have you notice any burn-in or negative effects (like Logo Luminance not working, etc)? And can you re-enable it when you want to do a warranty?
 
I use 50 OLED Light for both morning (with side window open) and night (not total darkness, I have some warm lights on).

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I'm thinking of getting a service remote to disable ASBL; it's so annoying for web browsing and desktop productivity lol. For anyone who has ASBL disabled for several months, have you notice any burn-in or negative effects (like Logo Luminance not working, etc)? And can you re-enable it when you want to do a warranty?
I didn’t think ASBL would bother me much but working from home it has definitely been an annoyance. I’ll learn to live with it but it’s not great. My one and only gripe with this display.
 
Hi, first of all excuse my English
a few days ago I bought the cx48 but using it I immediately noticed that the center part seems more swollen as if it were curved.
replaced it but still have the same problem.
the cx48s are manufactured in december
unfortunately you can't see it in the picture
some advice?
some Italian to give me a hand?
 
Update 03.21.16 is apparently available globally, per Reddit. It hasn’t come through yet for me on the US west coast. This update supposedly fixes the reduced HDR luminance issue while maintaining the previous black level fix.
 
Yeah its 'old' news as it came out yesterday and possibly earlier via engineering mode.

The Korean mothership site only mentions some vague image improvements in the change log.
Far more info on 3.21.09.

At least I dont see .16 breaking anything on my US-spec CX48 and CX65.
 
I keep Game(user) mode in Windows all the time (SDR).
OLED light 35
Contrast 80
Brightness 40
Sharpness 10
Color 55
Tint 0
Color gamut Auto
Gamma BT.1886
Color temp Warm1

I do not set Windows to HDR - when I game, I switch TV mode to HDR Effect(user):
OLED light 100
COntrast 100
Brightness 50
Sharpness 20
Color 55
Tint 0
Color temp C50
Color gamut Wide

Is there anything wrong with this? Am I missing something?
 
I keep Game(user) mode in Windows all the time (SDR).
OLED light 35
Contrast 80
Brightness 40
Sharpness 10
Color 55
Tint 0
Color gamut Auto
Gamma BT.1886
Color temp Warm1

I do not set Windows to HDR - when I game, I switch TV mode to HDR Effect(user):
OLED light 100
COntrast 100
Brightness 50
Sharpness 20
Color 55
Tint 0
Color temp C50
Color gamut Wide

Is there anything wrong with this? Am I missing something?

Color temp should be set to Warm2 for both modes if you wish to target close to D65 whitepoint. Sharpness should be set to 0 if you want neutral sharpness.
 
Color temp should be set to Warm2 for both modes if you wish to target close to D65 whitepoint. Sharpness should be set to 0 if you want neutral sharpness.

When I do Warm2, all white is like yellow... Like no blue light mode on mobile phone...
 
Guys, what OLED light setting do you use for Windows use, like browsing etc?
I have 30 and its pretty dark. I feel like 80 is like normal LCD monitor. And this is in total dark room at night.
50 OLED Light + 50 SDR Brightness should give you around 150 nits in PC mode. Setting OLED Light to 36 while leaving SDR Brightness at 50 will give you about 120 nits.

1610573551802.png


Note that the graph says "OSD Brightness" when it is referring to OLED light. It is recommended to leave SDR Brightness set to 50 and control how bright the screen is with OLED Light.
 
And bear in mind 120nits is an "enchanced" normal because most sets need it. In theory, 100nits is ideal. And I'm very happy in the 20s in a dim room. It's plenty bright and where I like it for reading and gaming.

HDR content is a different matter entirely.

But for SDR and desktop I can't imagine going over 30, or it starts getting uncomfortably bright for long reading sessions anyway.
 
desktop reading is totally different than media and images. I have dark themes and I can use a brightness slider addon "turn off the lights" on my web browsers too, which can leave images and videos untouched. (I also have a color changer addon with a quick drop down menu for background and text color wheels).

If I was using the OLED as my only display (rather than a dedicated media and gaming "stage").. with some work apps that had no way to be in dark modes I'd probably set up one of the named sets of inputs in the TV OSD just for apps/reading and swap in and out of it with the mic on the remote.

I would never want to use my lower "white-page" reading brightness levels...
... that I use with my addons (mostly for web pages what have a white background - if I don't want to use the color changer addon-on on them)
... as the same brightness (and color brightness) I use for media and pictures. They'd be too dull.

Same as if I am using an ebook reader on my tablet.. it would be set way dimmer in the e-reader than if I was viewing photos, art and videos outside of it.

Dark background themes and app settings work fine on everything else. I use a 3rd party file browser (directory opus) that has a ton of options. The aforementioned browser addons for both firefox and chrome, 3rd party notepad like app with dark background, 3rd party email app with dark background/theme, dark mode chat apps, streaming apps, youtube dark mode, slickdeals dark mode, etc etc. along with a high contrast dark windows theme.. you get the idea.
 
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OK... I'm starting to think that there is something wrong with my OLED then...

Here are few photos of it set OLED light to 100. Total dark room, no lights, SDR Windows.

What you guys are explaining, in dark room, this OLED light set to 100 should blind my ass like a sun, right?
And still, I can read everything ok, even white Google page doesn't blind me - is pretty vivid, but not that bright...

Tell me why?
 

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OK... I'm starting to think that there is something wrong with my OLED then...

Here are few photos of it set OLED light to 100. Total dark room, no lights, SDR Windows.

What you guys are explaining, in dark room, this OLED light set to 100 should blind my ass like a sun, right?
And still, I can read everything ok, even white Google page doesn't blind me - is pretty vivid, but not that bright...

Tell me why?

Only way to know for sure is to get a colorimeter and measure the maximum light output with OLED light set to 100. Sustained windows up to 25% are nearly 400 nits bright which is definitely enough to blind you in the dark (as well as accelerate burn in). Have you tried messing with peak brightness settings?

1610580152619.png
 
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OK... I'm starting to think that there is something wrong with my OLED then...

Here are few photos of it set OLED light to 100. Total dark room, no lights, SDR Windows.

What you guys are explaining, in dark room, this OLED light set to 100 should blind my ass like a sun, right?
And still, I can read everything ok, even white Google page doesn't blind me - is pretty vivid, but not that bright...

Tell me why?
You want contrast at 85 and brightness at 50. Having those lower is doing weird things. Just adjust OLED light when you want to change the "brightness".
 
I use 50 OLED Light for both morning (with side window open) and night (not total darkness, I have some warm lights on).

------------------

I'm thinking of getting a service remote to disable ASBL; it's so annoying for web browsing and desktop productivity lol. For anyone who has ASBL disabled for several months, have you notice any burn-in or negative effects (like Logo Luminance not working, etc)? And can you re-enable it when you want to do a warranty?

Think of ASBL increasing your panel life by another 3000-4000 hours if using it as a PC monitor. IMO it's not worth disabling it because of this. But I agree it's not ideal and probably a bit too aggressive. I don't really care much about it in desktop personally. It's mostly annoying when it triggers in media. It even happened when I was watching Kingdom last night. Your call whether it is worth disabling or not.

OK... I'm starting to think that there is something wrong with my OLED then...

Here are few photos of it set OLED light to 100. Total dark room, no lights, SDR Windows.

What you guys are explaining, in dark room, this OLED light set to 100 should blind my ass like a sun, right?
And still, I can read everything ok, even white Google page doesn't blind me - is pretty vivid, but not that bright...

Tell me why?

It looks really bright to me from your photos. OLEDs naturally look dimmer than backlit LCD, because LCD literally has a flashlight shining to illuminate the entire screen regardless of each pixel value. Whereas OLED illuminates per pixel, so the overall brightness will change depending on the content you're viewing. You are used to super bright screens it sounds like. It will probably take a while to get used to it but you should turn it down.
 
It looks really bright to me from your photos. OLEDs naturally look dimmer than backlit LCD, because LCD literally has a flashlight shining to illuminate the entire screen regardless of each pixel value. Whereas OLED illuminates per pixel, so the overall brightness will change depending on the content you're viewing. You are used to super bright screens it sounds like. It will probably take a while to get used to it but you should turn it down.

I think it must be me then - sounds like you're right - I'm used to overall brightness of LCD screen, sitting 50cm from 40" VA panel for last 5 years.
Now, sitting 50cm from OLED I see only brightness from pixels, not the whole screen, so it feels like its dark.
Keeping OLED to 30 (20 even), Contract 85, Brightness 50, color 50.

I need to get used to it now.
 
ABSL isn't bothering me ever, with brightness 20-30 in SDR. I've not seen it happen in a game or video, only on the desktop when leaving a static window for a little bit (I don't do work on this display so don't care). Only way I can make it happen in a game is by leaving a mostly static menu open, or finding a scene with practically zero motion and not move the camera at all (aka be AFK). Of course pausing a video works too.

That's a good thing though, means if I forget to toggle the screen off when walking away for a few minutes it will mitigate the damage.

If you have a low OLED light setting to begin with, it's probably not too bad to disable it anyway. Should not make much of a difference in the long run.
 
Hi, first of all excuse my English
a few days ago I bought the cx48 but using it I immediately noticed that the center part seems more swollen as if it were curved.
replaced it but still have the same problem.
the cx48s are manufactured in december
unfortunately you can't see it in the picture
some advice?
some Italian to give me a hand?
Can anyone help me?
Lg says it's normal
 
when instant game responce is active a lot of picture options seem get disabled is there an easier way to switch between desktop/games usage and movies/tv than going in and deactivating instant game responce?
 
I think if you're mostly just gaming or watching content it can make sense to turn off ABSL - it can be really obnoxious sometimes and isn't doing much anyways to protect your screen in those instances.

Can anyone help me?
Lg says it's normal

I've never heard of this... How would the screen be swollen in the middle? It's a flat piece of glass. It sounds like an obvious defect to me if so, though. Do you have pics showing it?
 
I didn’t think ASBL would bother me much but working from home it has definitely been an annoyance. I’ll learn to live with it but it’s not great. My one and only gripe with this display.
Just disable it. You will not regret it. Thank me later
 
I think it must be me then - sounds like you're right - I'm used to overall brightness of LCD screen, sitting 50cm from 40" VA panel for last 5 years.
Now, sitting 50cm from OLED I see only brightness from pixels, not the whole screen, so it feels like its dark.
Keeping OLED to 30 (20 even), Contract 85, Brightness 50, color 50.

I need to get used to it now.
I used to be the same day; you'll adjust after a few days.
 
when instant game responce is active a lot of picture options seem get disabled is there an easier way to switch between desktop/games usage and movies/tv than going in and deactivating instant game responce?
There is no point in running it in anything but Game mode when connected to a PC. That offers the lowest input lag and if you just copy the settings from Expert (dark) you will get very similar image quality.

If you want you could just hook up another HDMI input to your GPU and set that to use different settings with instant game response disabled on that input. But IMO it's not worth the effort.

For streaming services I would just use the built in apps which can all have their own picture settings.
 
ABSL isn't bothering me ever, with brightness 20-30 in SDR. I've not seen it happen in a game or video, only on the desktop when leaving a static window for a little bit (I don't do work on this display so don't care). Only way I can make it happen in a game is by leaving a mostly static menu open, or finding a scene with practically zero motion and not move the camera at all (aka be AFK). Of course pausing a video works too.

That's a good thing though, means if I forget to toggle the screen off when walking away for a few minutes it will mitigate the damage.

If you have a low OLED light setting to begin with, it's probably not too bad to disable it anyway. Should not make much of a difference in the long run.
ASBL is awful if you do use it on the desktop. It will gradually dim the display all the time and often it can be hard to get it out of that dimmed state without showing a big white window to it. Disabling it from the service menu made it just much better, I don't care that it will reduce its lifetime a bit. I have a blank screensaver set to turn on in case I forget to turn on the display when I take a longer break.
 
Guys, is there a setting I'm missing to make text look better?
Its almost ok, but on dark backgrounds I can see this "shadow" or double letters kinda thing.

Hopefully this photo shows it - look at the d letter.

20210115_124307.jpg
 
I recently discovered to my horror that when my DualSense is plugged in via USB, Windows disables all display off/screen saver behavior. Why Microsoft, why.
 
Guys, is there a setting I'm missing to make text look better?
Its almost ok, but on dark backgrounds I can see this "shadow" or double letters kinda thing.

Hopefully this photo shows it - look at the d letter.

View attachment 319343

I believe this is an effect of ClearType on Windows combined w/ the WRGB subpixel layout. There are various hacks to minimize it if you search around for color fringing on an LG OLED. Also make sure you are in 4:4:4 chroma.
 
I believe this is an effect of ClearType on Windows combined w/ the WRGB subpixel layout. There are various hacks to minimize it if you search around for color fringing on an LG OLED. Also make sure you are in 4:4:4 chroma.

I'm on 444 and cleartype is disabled.

I need to look and find some tips for it you said.
 
Guys, is there a setting I'm missing to make text look better?
Its almost ok, but on dark backgrounds I can see this "shadow" or double letters kinda thing.

Hopefully this photo shows it - look at the d letter.

View attachment 319343
Get Better Cleartype Tuner, set it to use Grayscale antialiasing and restart the computer. That's IMO the best thing for Windows text rendering on these displays. Disabling Cleartype works but IMO looks crap. OSX is far better with the way it handles no font smoothing.

Also make sure you are running 4:4:4 color space. This requires that the icon for your TV input is set to PC and RGB is selected in Nvidia Control Panel settings or the same thing on the AMD equivalent.
 
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