LG 48CX

When you enable windows hdr, you also get a slider for sdr content brightness, just adjust that. has worked generally fine for over two years.
 
Morkai said:
When you enable windows hdr, you also get a slider for sdr content brightness, just adjust that. has worked generally fine for over two years.
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I had completely forgotten about this (it's been a long time since I've used Windows HDR). For some reason my brightness slider was maxed out, and combined with OLED light 100 in HDR yeah...seared my eyes out. Adjusting it fixed everything up.
 
Sorcerer_Tim said:
What stand is that? It would be perfect for my desk.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077MJZ6ZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Has some quirks but overall worth the money!!

MelonSplitter said:
Is that a Pearlsmith stand? If so, I have the same one. Very nice looking and drops the CX right on my desk. I removed the rubber "legs" to drop it even lower.
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Haha it’s is! I thought it would look lame but works and looks better then I thought! Did you get the swivel version??[/QUOTE]
 
elvn said:
I'm looking for a "3090" Ti with more vram if the rumor ends up true that they are making one, and if they make a hybrid one even better so that might take awhile longer and as has been said, to be in stock and not re-sold at even higher middle-man gouging prices.

55" inch is do-able at 48" to 55" min to my eyeballs. I have not yet ruled it out for my setup. As long as you aren't crazy about BFI and you don't mind sitting back even farther, it doesn't sound like you'd be missing anything with a C9. I'm going to be interested to see what's up with the vizio 55" OLEDs when they are available too though.

I'll be happy to have a good oled in november and hopefully be using that oled + a top tier 3000 series (assuming they have hdmi 2.1) by the end of 2020 if possible.

Incidentally I don't really re-sell stuff much unless it's someone I know. I don't have a P.O. box or UPS box currently. Call me paranoid but I don't want people getting my address. In the past I was willing to do local police stations that are set up as online auction transfer sites in order to sell stuff locally but considering the various issues currently I wouldn't even bother doing that. So most things become hand-me downs to other rigs or other areas of the house, get given to my nephews or go into storage if they don't die before then.

I often hear people saying they are going to get 90% of what they bought their products for when selling used goods. They post that they got a lot of money for selling them. I don't know if I believe that in every single case. A 55" C9 was $1200 last november. It went back up to $1500 but now the CX's are out and eventually the $1300 (retail, not on sale) 55" vizios. I mean if you can get a grand for it used (and a used OLED at that) more power to you I guess. Personally as a metric for used goods I base prices working from 60% of current retail price at the time of sale, not of what the product cost the person to buy when they bought it. That includes my stuff if I was selling anything. I mean, anyone could ask more but that would be my line. Paying much more than that I'd rather just buy new. Less risk and unused. Less than that I'd usually rather just keep the item. But that's just me.
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sold.jpg

Sorry to hear that you have trust issues with what people tell you. That, I can't help you with. I'm guessing a lot of people just assume others are lying most of the time. Humans suck and sadly, assuming the worst out of people is much easier than just listening to them. And that's fine. Doesn't bother me as I have thicker skin than most.

I have page after page of sold items. This is the PC I sold maybe 2+ months ago give or take a week.

It's not hard to sell something. What makes it easy? Very simple. Don't be cheap. Everyone want's the nice stuff. Most can't, don't or won't afford it. Can you sell a nVidia 2070? Sure, I guess but the buyer for that item is still going to be broke so don't expect much. When people see you have a $3500 PC for sale with a 9900K and a 2080 ti, they expect to pay more. I had that PC for maybe 18 months, sold it for $3k, so got to use it for all those months for around $500. BTW, I've been doing this for years.

Don't buy cheap, don't be lazy, sell you're stuff while it has most of its value ( usually a 12 - 18 months ) and upgrade for pennies on the dollar. Anyone can do it. I also sold my Samsung NU8000 for exactly what I pad for it, around $650, my LG OLED C9 cost me around $300+ out of pocket.

I promise you, there are smart guys on this thread who didn't have to pay much for their LG CX because they use the same exact logic I use, or for their PC, or car, or house, etc etc.

Good luck.
 
SixFootDuo said:
Sorry to hear that you have trust issues with what people tell you. That, I can't help you with. I'm guessing a lot of people just assume others are lying most of the time. Humans suck and sadly, assuming the worst out of people is much easier than just listening to them. And that's fine. Doesn't bother me as I have thicker skin than most.

I have page after page of sold items. This is the PC I sold maybe 2+ months ago give or take a week.

It's not hard to sell something. What makes it easy? Very simple. Don't be cheap. Everyone want's the nice stuff. Most can't, don't or won't afford it. Can you sell a nVidia 2070? Sure, I guess but the buyer for that item is still going to be broke so don't expect much. When people see you have a $3500 PC for sale with a 9900K and a 2080 ti, they expect to pay more. I had that PC for maybe 18 months, sold it for $3k, so got to use it for all those months for around $500. BTW, I've been doing this for years.

Don't buy cheap, don't be lazy, sell you're stuff while it has most of its value ( usually a 12 - 18 months ) and upgrade for pennies on the dollar. Anyone can do it. I also sold my Samsung NU8000 for exactly what I pad for it, around $650, my LG OLED C9 cost me around $300+ out of pocket.

I promise you, there are smart guys on this thread who didn't have to pay much for their LG CX because they use the same exact logic I use, or for their PC, or car, or house, etc etc.

Good luck.
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I'm thinking of using this logic to sell my RTX 2080 now before it plummets in value in a couple months. And then obviously buy a 3080 ti or something when it releases.

The only problem is I only have Intel 4770k integrated graphics to hold me over and I don't even remember if that can power two monitors (I have a 4k monitor and a 3440x1440 ultrawide). Anyone happen to know if this will work?
 
How do you keep the remote pointer true? I can point the remote at the right side of the screen and the pointer cursor is way on the left side. I have to perform an aerial dance with the remote to re center it. This is the only thing that annoys me about this display.
 
MelonSplitter said:
How do you keep the remote pointer true? I can point the remote at the right side of the screen and the pointer cursor is way on the left side. I have to perform an aerial dance with the remote to re center it. This is the only thing that annoys me about this display.
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I had this issue when I first fired up the TV but it seemed to reorient itself eventually and has been fine ever since.
 
MelonSplitter said:
How do you keep the remote pointer true? I can point the remote at the right side of the screen and the pointer cursor is way on the left side. I have to perform an aerial dance with the remote to re center it. This is the only thing that annoys me about this display.
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You don't it seems. From what I can tell it's just accelarometer based, not actually detecting where you're pointing at the screen. It seems like you can kinda just wave it off screen a bit to adjust it.
 
mirkendargen said:
You don't it seems. From what I can tell it's just accelarometer based, not actually detecting where you're pointing at the screen. It seems like you can kinda just wave it off screen a bit to adjust it.
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Ja, I've just gotten used to this dance. I mostly use the directional buttons on the remote, instead.
 
DrekkenRidge said:
I'm thinking of using this logic to sell my RTX 2080 now before it plummets in value in a couple months. And then obviously buy a 3080 ti or something when it releases.

The only problem is I only have Intel 4770k integrated graphics to hold me over and I don't even remember if that can power two monitors (I have a 4k monitor and a 3440x1440 ultrawide). Anyone happen to know if this will work?
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Without a doubt.

There are A LOT of guys out there that have zero clue the new stuff is coming out. Not your problem and want this video card. Get $650 or $700 for it now while you can. I'm not sure what that card is worth or what it costs. The downside to this is not being able to game for a few months. That's just the cost of doing business. If you wait until a week before the new stuff comes out to sell your video card, 1, a lot less people will want to buy it ( less customers ) and 2, whoever does want to buy it will only be willing to pay 350 - 400 for it unless you catch a guy slipping which is still possible.
 
SixFootDuo said:
Without a doubt.

There are A LOT of guys out there that have zero clue the new stuff is coming out. Not your problem and want this video card. Get $650 or $700 for it now while you can. I'm not sure what that card is worth or what it costs. The downside to this is not being able to game for a few months. That's just the cost of doing business. If you wait until a week before the new stuff comes out to sell your video card, 1, a lot less people will want to buy it ( less customers ) and 2, whoever does want to buy it will only be willing to pay 350 - 400 for it unless you catch a guy slipping which is still possible.
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You COULD wait a bit longer, sell your current card, and buy a new eVGA card then use step up to apply that to the purchase price of a 3080Ti ;) You just have to be damn sure 3080Ti's will be available within 90 days.
 
Thank you SixFootDuo and mirkendargen. I think I'll hold on just a bit, maybe two weeks, then sell, then look into the step up thing if I can't wait. I technically have some PS4 Pro games to hold me over.

Edit: I do think the 3000 series will be out by September. At the VERY latest it will be October. The Nvidia CEO has way too much on an ego to let consoles in November make the 2000 series look terrible as a value proposition (I'm not saying his ego is a bad thing - it's his job to have a competitive edge).

Sorry, I suppose this has gotten a bit off topic, so I'll stop it here, but it all comes back in the end to pairing with this TV.
 
So I just got my Club 3D CAC 1085 today, and I plugged it in and i got a NO Signal. So now I have a brick sitting here useless.....anyone has this issue?
 
Ok I got the Club 3D adapter to work, but I can't get the scaling to work properly. Like my desktop is oversized, like i can't see the bottom of my Taskbar. I tried all the Scaling options from GPU to Display scalings, none work so far.
I changed from PC mode to Game console mode in the LG options. Also the color is washed out, it def doesn't look like Wide Gamut color
 
jincuteguy said:
Ok I got the Club 3D adapter to work, but I can't get the scaling to work properly. Like my desktop is oversized, like i can't see the bottom of my Taskbar. I tried all the Scaling options from GPU to Display scalings, none work so far.
I changed from PC mode to Game console mode in the LG options. Also the color is washed out, it def doesn't look like Wide Gamut color
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From everything I hear about this adapter, it seems the problems definitely outweigh the benefits. I'll pass and just enjoy the display for what it is.
 
MelonSplitter said:
From everything I hear about this adapter, it seems the problems definitely outweigh the benefits. I'll pass and just enjoy the display for what it is.
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With new GPUs so close to launching, the adapter's usefulness is going to be short lived anyway. Not to mention the lack of VRR. I've just been happily enjoying my CX at 120Hz 4:2:0 for the time being. Chroma subsampling is much harder to notice in games.
 
Armenius said:
Windows HDR has worked fine and as expected on the desktop for me since 1903. It has to be an issue with the connected display.
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The big problem that affects a *lot* of displays is when HDR is enabled within Windows (and some games, like CoD Warzone require it in order to enable HDR) there is a nasty glitch where any event that causes the Windows OSD to activate (the easiest one is the volume bar) causes the display to briefly flicker between SDR and back to HDR, causing the display to go blank for about a second each way. There's *some* reports that 2004 finally fixes that bug, but I'm one of the ones who's PC is currently marked as incompatible, so I can't confirm so either way.

As I've noted before, Windows needs to separate it's HDR settings in to: One to allow applications to enable HDR [independent of whether Windows enables it or not; may require exclusive fullscreen in that case], and one to enable it for the Windows desktop.
 
Are there any issues with the screen that would not be resolved by an HDMI 2.1 card?

Also, is the discussion about wonky adapters above not applicable to true HDMI 2.1 screens?
 
DrekkenRidge said:
I'm thinking of using this logic to sell my RTX 2080 now before it plummets in value in a couple months. And then obviously buy a 3080 ti or something when it releases.

The only problem is I only have Intel 4770k integrated graphics to hold me over and I don't even remember if that can power two monitors (I have a 4k monitor and a 3440x1440 ultrawide). Anyone happen to know if this will work?
Click to expand...
It's not giong to plumet much if at all. Take this from someone who has been buying used since the mining craze. 2080s will be out of stock fast when, or before 3080s hit the shelves, and the demand for used 2080s will spike. People like me make up the majority of the used market, and we are waiting just like you, so 2080 prices are going to reflect that, and they will go up a bit until 3080s saturate a bit, before they go down, or 3070/3060s give some competition to the 2080s. This is exactly what happened with the 10 series, I had to settle for a 1070ti since 1080s held so much value. Hell 1080ti are still going for $500 in the wild.
 
vick1000 said:
It's not giong to plumet much if at all. Take this from someone who has been buying used since the mining craze. 2080s will be out of stock fast when, or before 3080s hit the shelves, and the demand for used 2080s will spike. People like me make up the majority of the used market, and we are waiting just like you, so 2080 prices are going to reflect that, and they will go up a bit until 3080s saturate a bit, before they go down, or 3070/3060s give some competition to the 2080s. This is exactly what happened with the 10 series, I had to settle for a 1070ti since 1080s held so much value. Hell 1080ti are still going for $500 in the wild.
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I'll be happy if I can get 250 for my 1080, anything more is gravy.
 
Last time I sold my 1080 Ti well ahead of time in anticipation of the 2080 Ti and it was a huge mistake. 1080 Ti's went up in value since Turing was pretty disappointing and I learned my lesson that doing the sell before a new generation drops thing is a gamble now days since we don't get the Pascal like jumps in performance anymore.

I'm going to wait it out this time since I have literally nothing of interest to play outside of a handful of games like Horizon + Cyberpunk that might require the performance jump from my 2080 Ti. Most everything else in my backlog runs just fine. I might even just get the tier down (3080) instead of the Ti this generation for a 10-15% bump and HDMI 2.1.
 
SoCali said:
Last time I sold my 1080 Ti well ahead of time in anticipation of the 2080 Ti and it was a huge mistake. 1080 Ti's went up in value since Turing was pretty disappointing and I learned my lesson that doing the sell before a new generation drops thing is a gamble now days since we don't get the Pascal like jumps in performance anymore.

I'm going to wait it out this time since I have literally nothing of interest to play outside of a handful of games like Horizon + Cyberpunk that might require the performance jump from my 2080 Ti. Most everything else in my backlog runs just fine. I might even just get the tier down (3080) instead of the Ti this generation for a 10-15% bump and HDMI 2.1.
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I totally agree. I wish I had bought the 1080 Ti when it was still cheap in relation to how good it was, but instead jumped from 980 Ti straight to 2080 Ti because at the time used 1080 Tis were very expensive, 2080s were expensive and no better than the 1080 Ti and lower end 2080 Tis were only slightly more expensive than the good 2080s. I'm glad I opted for the 2080 Ti and for me it would perform well enough but I want that HDMI 2.1 so I had high hopes for that Club3D adapter. It is still a no-show in my country so can't even buy it to try it and then return it if it doesn't work well enough.

I was hoping I could use the adapter to ride out the stepped releases and bad availability of the 30xx series until all the options are available with reviews. Might still do that.
 
Ok I finally got all the issues for the Clube 3D adatper solved. Basically for anyone that has the Washed out color, turn of the HDR in windows. I know it's weird but as soon as I turned off HDR in windows (windows 10), all the Vibrant Wide Gamut color are back it's just like HDR. It's weird i dont know how to explain it.
I think the way they made this adapter is weird or backward somehow.

Here is a screenshot of 4k @120hz 12bit Full RGB working, no washed out color.

https://gyazo.com/ef38e2df962a374ace766bf7b2001919
 
jincuteguy said:
Ok I finally got all the issues for the Clube 3D adatper solved. Basically for anyone that has the Washed out color, turn of the HDR in windows. I know it's weird but as soon as I turned off HDR in windows (windows 10), all the Vibrant Wide Gamut color are back it's just like HDR. It's weird i dont know how to explain it.
I think the way they made this adapter is weird or backward somehow.

Here is a screenshot of 4k @120hz 12bit Full RGB working, no washed out color.

https://gyazo.com/ef38e2df962a374ace766bf7b2001919
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Is this on C9 or CX? I expect that it just does not have the bandwidth for 4K 120 Hz 12 bit RGB and HDR because I have seen this washed out look in games if HDR is enabled at 4K 120 Hz 8-bit 4:2:0 without the adapter. Basically the HDR breaks somehow.

But can you get 4K 120 Hz 8 or 10-bit to work with HDR? Does yours blank out if HDR is toggled, requiring a power cycle of the adapter? What HDMI cable are you using?
 
He has a 2019 set (E9), why he can get 12-bit to work.

Since the Club3D adapter is using DP 1.4 with DCS, 4k @120hz 10bit Full RGB with HDR should work with the CX. Still no one has tested this which is crazy.
 
kasakka said:
Is this on C9 or CX? I expect that it just does not have the bandwidth for 4K 120 Hz 12 bit RGB and HDR because I have seen this washed out look in games if HDR is enabled at 4K 120 Hz 8-bit 4:2:0 without the adapter. Basically the HDR breaks somehow.

But can you get 4K 120 Hz 8 or 10-bit to work with HDR? Does yours blank out if HDR is toggled, requiring a power cycle of the adapter? What HDMI cable are you using?
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I have an E9, same as C9. I'm using an 8K HDMI cable. I think as soon as you turned on HDR in Windows, the color will be washed out regardless of 8bit, 10bit, or 12bit.

The weird thing is, when HDR is off in Windows, the color looks fantastic, it's just like how HDR should looks like. IT's weird
 
jincuteguy said:
I have an E9, same as C9. I'm using an 8K HDMI cable. I think as soon as you turned on HDR in Windows, the color will be washed out regardless of 8bit, 10bit, or 12bit.

The weird thing is, when HDR is off in Windows, the color looks fantastic, it's just like how HDR should looks like. IT's weird
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Try opening YouTube, google for something like "4K HDR" and then try those videos with both HDR on and off in Windows settings. You have the HDMI Ultra Deep Color enabled for the input, right?
 
jincuteguy said:
I have an E9, same as C9. I'm using an 8K HDMI cable. I think as soon as you turned on HDR in Windows, the color will be washed out regardless of 8bit, 10bit, or 12bit.

The weird thing is, when HDR is off in Windows, the color looks fantastic, it's just like how HDR should looks like. IT's weird
Click to expand...
Probably because there is not enough bandwidth. You're working with DisplayPort's 32.4 Gbps, not HDMI's 48 Gbps. The same thing happens to my PG27UQ when the display starts out in DP 1.2 mode instead of 1.4 for some reason.
 
MelonSplitter said:
From everything I hear about this adapter, it seems the problems definitely outweigh the benefits. I'll pass and just enjoy the display for what it is.
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I just sent my adapter back but I was using it with a 1080 Ti. My goal was to get 120hz at 4k with 10 bit color and I couldn't get it to work. Just wait for the next gen cards.

There is an interesting thing I noticed with the CX and it just might be my lack of ever having an OLED but how can my games go over 60fps when I have the desktop set to 4k at 60hz?
As an example for warhammer 2 at 4k I get 80fps.
 
kasakka said:
Try opening YouTube, google for something like "4K HDR" and then try those videos with both HDR on and off in Windows settings. You have the HDMI Ultra Deep Color enabled for the input, right?
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Yes, I have HDMI Ultra Deep Color enabled. You need to have the Ultra Deep Color enabled in order to get 4k @ 120hz, if it's Disabled, you can't run 4k @ 120hz, only 60hz. I already tested it out. That's why I said this adapter is weird.
 
HellfireX said:
I just sent my adapter back but I was using it with a 1080 Ti. My goal was to get 120hz at 4k with 10 bit color and I couldn't get it to work. Just wait for the next gen cards.

There is an interesting thing I noticed with the CX and it just might be my lack of ever having an OLED but how can my games go over 60fps when I have the desktop set to 4k at 60hz?
As an example for warhammer 2 at 4k I get 80fps.
Click to expand...
You either don't have V-Sync enabled in the game, or the game is running at a different refresh rate than the desktop.
 
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