LG 48CX

Can anyone give ma a report on how this is for productivity tasks (such as document production and reading academic/legal sources on the web)?
 
lh1983 said:
Can anyone give ma a report on how this is for productivity tasks (such as document production and reading academic/legal sources on the web)?
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It will work but you can have similar sized displays much cheaper if that is your main use case.
 
IdiotInCharge said:
Or just four 1080p IPS screens on monitor arms... probably easier on the eyes and to arrange in a useful fashion.
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If one were to do that they could have done it 100 years ago when that tech was cutting edge.
There is no substitute for one solid high res, high refresh, bezel free panel to move work around freely!
 
It works fine for work & document editing/browsing. I am using non-HDR mode, game picture mode, 120Hz, and using Powertoys FancyZones to layout documents. Very clear text.

I can't recommend Powertoys enough, if you use a large screen. Makes window layouts so easy and quick.
 
My main use will be gaming. I do 90% of my work at the office but there may be a weekend or a night I pull an all-nighter. So long as it’s not just wretched to use for that.
 
I use displayfusion pro with hotkeys for window placements which I then tie to a streamdeck's buttons. I also use some scripted window placement toggles so I can hit the same button more than once. It's evolved a little over the time I've been using it. It makes using three monitors way better and more fun to use.

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-I have uneven quad buttons that work on whatever screen the active window is open on.
-Pressing the LG 32" or the Samsung 4k button moves the active window to the respective monitor if it's not already on it and centers the window in the middle 60%.
-The TCL 4k button moves the window to a small narrow window position in the upper middle of the TCL 4k screen, which is always left empty exactly by the 4 uneven tiled window positions. (nice for chat windows, lists, playlists, etc)
-The Corner XL button makes a big window for video playback or a large dual pane file browser window.
-The 100%/Prev button is a toggle button that makes the active window fullscreen and on a second press returns it to it's previous size and position
-the up/down arrow looking button is a vertical max button toggle that makes the active window full screen height while retaining it's width. A second press returns it to it's former size and position (notably not forcing it to the edge of the screen, it will remember where it was).
-the left/right arrow looking button is a horizontal max button toggle that makes the active window full screen width while retaining it's height. A second press returns it to it's former size and position (notably not forcing it to the edge of the screen, it will remember where it was).
-the 40% left and 60% right buttons make it easy to split the screen unevenly at full height. they also exactly match the widths of the lower uneven quad window buttons, so it's easy to make one tall window alongside two stacked windows from either 40% or 60% on either side as the tall one.
-show desk is a quick full minimize. I'm might make it into a screensaver toggle at some point.

The up arrow brings you back to the root "button array directory" where I have a bunch of other functional buttons for windows 10 stuff, foobar controls, and buttons for several of my commonly used apps that allow to directly focus on an app from pressing the button rather than having having to click it with your mouse. That makes it easy to for example, press the foobar icon button and then the "Next/FWD" button to skip a song, then click the app button I was focused on before that (a chat app for example).

There is a lot more you can do with this stuff and if you combine the streamdeck with it's built in functionality for obsstudio and other apps, or make your own arrays of buttons for other app's hotkeys. There is way more you can do with displayfusion also if you want to download more functions and/or take a stab at editing them a little like I have (though I've only done simple edits, I'm a novice).
 
lh1983 said:
My main use will be gaming. I do 90% of my work at the office but there may be a weekend or a night I pull an all-nighter. So long as it’s not just wretched to use for that.
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I am in the same situation were I use my C7 for gaming/movies 90% of the time and occasionally for work (well more than occasionally last few months). The OLED can be used for this purpose but it is not an ideal work display. The most annoying thing can be ABL. Just scrolling text around in a window is not enough "change" so every few min your screen dims and you have to move some window to get it to undim.

Also for work you tend to have a lot of static screens (at least I do with VNC) so it is not ideal for OLED.

In my case I wound up creating a smaller (typically 1440p) VNC window to use for work on the OLED with the rest being a frequency changing Windows background image slide.
 
Ziran said:
I am in the same situation were I use my C7 for gaming/movies 90% of the time and occasionally for work (well more than occasionally last few months). The OLED can be used for this purpose but it is not an ideal work display. The most annoying thing can be ABL. Just scrolling text around in a window is not enough "change" so every few min your screen dims and you have to move some window to get it to undim.

Also for work you tend to have a lot of static screens (at least I do with VNC) so it is not ideal for OLED.

In my case I wound up creating a smaller (typically 1440p) VNC window to use for work on the OLED with the rest being a frequency changing Windows background image slide.
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I would always have a window at some place playing music or YouTube or something while I write briefs.
 
Just played a round of Killing Floor 2 on the 55" CX....Yup...Zero regrets moving from my PG348Q - 3440x1440 UltraWide. Was worried I'd miss the ultrawide aspect ratio - nope not at all. I sit about 5ft away from the screen and its just enough where I dont have to move my head to see everything on the screen. I've gamed on a OLED before (I have a C6 in my movie theater room). This is pure bliss - everything that OLED brings to the table and GSYNC...Love it. I also like how it has Freesync support too - no longer bound to GeForce GPU's...
 
pandora's box said:
Just played a round of Killing Floor 2 on the 55" CX....Yup...Zero regrets moving from my PG348Q - 3440x1440 UltraWide. Was worried I'd miss the ultrawide aspect ratio - nope not at all. I sit about 5ft away from the screen and its just enough where I dont have to move my head to see everything on the screen. I've gamed on a OLED before (I have a C6 in my movie theater room). This is pure bliss - everything that OLED brings to the table and GSYNC...Love it. I also like how it has Freesync support too - no longer bound to GeForce GPU's...
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Glad you’re happy! I’m really excited to get my 48”.

I don’t miss ultrawide, either. Even if I didn’t feel that they were vertically challenged...they’re still all LCD. Bleh. #TrueBlacksMatter
 
pandora's box , Try a custom 3840x1600 resolution. Your screen will turn into a 51" ultrawide. :D

pandora's box said:
Just played a round of Killing Floor 2 on the 55" CX....Yup...Zero regrets moving from my PG348Q - 3440x1440 UltraWide. Was worried I'd miss the ultrawide aspect ratio - nope not at all. I sit about 5ft away from the screen and its just enough where I dont have to move my head to see everything on the screen. I've gamed on a OLED before (I have a C6 in my movie theater room). This is pure bliss - everything that OLED brings to the table and GSYNC...Love it. I also like how it has Freesync support too - no longer bound to GeForce GPU's...
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Ziran said:
I am in the same situation were I use my C7 for gaming/movies 90% of the time and occasionally for work (well more than occasionally last few months). The OLED can be used for this purpose but it is not an ideal work display. The most annoying thing can be ABL. Just scrolling text around in a window is not enough "change" so every few min your screen dims and you have to move some window to get it to undim.

Also for work you tend to have a lot of static screens (at least I do with VNC) so it is not ideal for OLED.

In my case I wound up creating a smaller (typically 1440p) VNC window to use for work on the OLED with the rest being a frequency changing Windows background image slide.
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You can use a dark theme in windows which will change some backgrounds in apps.

I can customize thunderbird email app to a grey theme.

For browsers I use "Color changer" addon in firefox which is a color wheel. The addon remembers your selections per site but it's really quick to do on the fly too. I also use "turn off the lights" in firefox and chrome - which puts a dim overlay on the web page (user selectable opacity). You can set it up to allow clickable hyperlinks through the overlay, and it has a whitelist for darker by default sites you don't want to use it on. It's a quick icon to turn it on/off or you can use a slider in the bottom right corner to edit the brightness of the web page on the fly simply.
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My 3rd party dual pane file browser "directory opus" allows complete customization of the text and background colors, as does my 3rd party notepad type app. Twitch and youtube have dark modes now. Foobar can be edited to have a dark or grey theme, viber and discord have dark modes, steam is dark.

There are a few apps I use that are a pain because they still keep a white background with no customization options, but the number of those is very few now.

Using dark/grey app settings like those I mentioned would probably avoid ABL and it would have less OLED "heat" compared to bright backgrounds as if it already had ABL active sort-of. However static content is still not recommended wherever you can avoid it. I don't plan on using my OLED for anything static (other than game HUDS). I want it to be a "stage" mainly for games and media, and sometimes high rez graphics/art/photo slideshows, maybe audio visualizations, screen saver. I'm going to be using other monitors in the array for static content.

Also worth mentioning that you could probably set up a named mode with the ABL avoiding settings below for when you wanted to work on documents/apps:
From the Rtings C9 Review, regarding SDR settings concerning ABL:
"If ABL bothers you, setting the contrast to '80' and setting Peak Brightness to 'Off' essentially disables ABL, but the peak brightness is quite a bit lower (246-258 cd/m² in all scenes)."
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I don't know the OSD of the LG OLEDs enough to know if you could save those settings to a simple named mode that you could switch back and forth from on the same input like I can on the vizio FALD TV in my living room, but if you can it is very handy. I do settings on my Vizio tv for day, night, animation/anime, extra-dark content, pc, game/console which can be switched between on any input. In my case currently these are a nvidia shield, ps4, blu-ray player, and a laptop hdmi when I connect it once in awhile.
 
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elvn said:
I don't know the OSD of the LG OLEDs enough to know if you could save those settings to a simple named mode that you could switch back and forth from on the same input like I can on the vizio FALD TV in my living room, but if you can it is very handy. I do settings on my Vizio tv for day, night, animation/anime, extra-dark content, pc, game/console which can be switched between on any input. In my case currently these are a nvidia shield, ps4, blu-ray player, and a laptop hdmi when I connect it once in awhile.
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Yes you can save this as a preset and it would probably be reasonable to have one for desktop and another one for gaming or movies. You will probably have to tweak presets to make them match.
 
Anyone with a CX, is the colors washed out it in PC Input / Game Picture mode like on the C9? It's easy to tell; just switch between all of the picture modes on an colorful image and see if the other picture modes look much more color vibrant.
 
Vega said:
Anyone with a CX, is the colors washed out it in PC Input / Game Picture mode like on the C9? It's easy to tell; just switch between all of the picture modes on an colorful image and see if the other picture modes look much more color vibrant.
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This sounds like a configuration issue because I have noticed no issues with the way my C9 is setup regardless of what is connected.
 
kasakka said:
This sounds like a configuration issue because I have noticed no issues with the way my C9 is setup regardless of what is connected.
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Naw, I have tested it extensively with my C9. There are hardly any options in the C9 menu under Game picture preset that aren't locked out to configure. Others have noticed it too, the C9 PC Input/Game Mode has a serious issue with de-saturation of colors. Just bring up a vibrant colorful image in PC Input and switch between all of the picture modes, you will see how bad game-mode looks. The best way is to put another display next to the C9 for a side-by-side direct comparison. It's harder to notice when you switch from one picture preset, when you go into game mode and out of game mode there is a ~1 second blank pause.
 
I briefly had the 55" CX and moved to a 55" C9 that was only $999 at Microcenter.

I didn't realize that the C9 does not have 4K @ 120Hz @ 4:2:0 ...... This is only a feature for the CX.

At any rate, very happy with my C9.

I went ahead and spent the $130 for the extended warranty which allows me to return the TV for up to 2 years. This will give me $1100 credit toward the 48" or just maybe I'll wait for the C11 in 2021 and put the $1,100 credit toward that set.

I should be able to get 4:4:4: @ 4K @ 120hz once I install my nVidia 3090 this Sept.
 
Tonight I've decided to play with the HDR settings, and try and understand how G-Sync will work. I've managed to:

1. In the display adapter, set the display to 60Hz (if not, the following doesn't work in 120Hz for me)
2. In Windows 10, set the display settings to HDR
3. On the TV, go into the picture settings and set to HDR - Game Picture Mode

At this point, should HDR become accessible in those games that support it, right? I'm downloading Hitman 2 as a write this, but it's about 100GB :)

Regarding G-Sync - Nvidia control panel shows no G-Sync option - I'm using a 1080. Is this definitely because we need next gen 30xx series cards, to support G-Sync over HDMI 2.1? I'm assuming so, and I've always had it on my radar to buy one.
 
caffix said:
Tonight I've decided to play with the HDR settings, and try and understand how G-Sync will work. I've managed to:

1. In the display adapter, set the display to 60Hz (if not, the following doesn't work in 120Hz for me)
2. In Windows 10, set the display settings to HDR
3. On the TV, go into the picture settings and set to HDR - Game Picture Mode

At this point, should HDR become accessible in those games that support it, right? I'm downloading Hitman 2 as a write this, but it's about 100GB :)

Regarding G-Sync - Nvidia control panel shows no G-Sync option - I'm using a 1080. Is this definitely because we need next gen 30xx series cards, to support G-Sync over HDMI 2.1? I'm assuming so, and I've always had it on my radar to buy one.
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G-SYNC works with HDMI 2.0, but it's only available with Turing and up (RTX 20- and GTX 16-series) on LG OLED televisions.
 
pandora's box said:
I also like how it has Freesync support too - no longer bound to GeForce GPU's...
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It doesn't really have either; it has HDMI Adaptive Sync, which is it's own 'thing'. AMD ported Freesync over to HDMI, but unlike with DisplayPort, their version isn't what the standards body adopted. And then Nvidia put out support for HDMI Adaptive Sync with Turing (16-- and 20--series) GPUs, while we're still waiting on support from AMD.

caffix said:
Regarding G-Sync - Nvidia control panel shows no G-Sync option - I'm using a 1080. Is this definitely because we need next gen 30xx series cards, to support G-Sync over HDMI 2.1? I'm assuming so, and I've always had it on my radar to buy one.
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16-- and 20--series support Freesync over HDMI and DP, as well as HDMI Adaptive Sync that LG is using.
 
kasakka said:
Yes you can save this as a preset and it would probably be reasonable to have one for desktop and another one for gaming or movies. You will probably have to tweak presets to make them match.
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For games/movies I run with 100oled, 100contrast, 50brigntness (essentially max settings) on my personal gaming machine. The work is done on work laptop that is on another HDMI input and has different reduced brightness settings (as white screen at max is way too much on oled for longer than few seconds).

Still even with reduced settings ABL kicks in enough to be annoying. Using only part of screen with rest being frequently changing background mostly solved the issue. You still get the occasional dimming when 2/3 of the screen is "bright" as you move windows around (the other kind of ABL).

Overall it is usable but I would not buy OLED as a dedicated work display. For occasionally working from home it can be made to work.
 
Armenius said:
G-SYNC works with HDMI 2.0, but it's only available with Turing and up (RTX 20- and GTX 16-series) on LG OLED televisions.
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IdiotInCharge said:
16-- and 20--series support Freesync over HDMI and DP, as well as HDMI Adaptive Sync that LG is using.
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Thanks both - I suspected as much, it's not entirely clear when trying to research this yourself.

Fortunately, the 48 CX is everything I want in a display for now. When I can enable G-Sync later this year, it will be even better.

I will feedback soon on my opinions on HDR on this, once I have some games installed to test it with.
 
pandora's box said:
I dont notice a difference in black levels between gsync on and off.
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Do you own ori and the blind forest or any other games with very dark black backgrounds combined with very bright characters and objects that you could test VRR with to see if the areas around the high contrast edges are grey-black or have any weird gradient issues?
 
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Ziran said:
I am in the same situation were I use my C7 for gaming/movies 90% of the time and occasionally for work (well more than occasionally last few months). The OLED can be used for this purpose but it is not an ideal work display. The most annoying thing can be ABL. Just scrolling text around in a window is not enough "change" so every few min your screen dims and you have to move some window to get it to undim.

Also for work you tend to have a lot of static screens (at least I do with VNC) so it is not ideal for OLED.

In my case I wound up creating a smaller (typically 1440p) VNC window to use for work on the OLED with the rest being a frequency changing Windows background image slide.
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Honestly my c6 I had before the c9 I uesed for 90% PC/gaming lots of web browsing etc. When I upgraded blast year I took the time to do color slides it had the faintest bit around the task bar but under anything other then a dark room and uesing slides it wouldn't show up at all. So honestly it's basically a non issue because if it can hold up though years of 10+he a day PC usage what more could you ask for?
 
My CX 48" got delayed from this Monday to "5-7" days so might get it at the turn of the month. Hopefully.
EDIT: Now delayed to start of next month :mad:

My current plan is to try to use a monitor arm to hook it up, got a VESA 100x100 to 300x200 adapter plate ready to go, swapping my desk for a deeper 80cm one (just swapping mine and my gf’s desks so no cost). Got some HDMI 8K (or "2.1") cables.

Been learning to work with autohide taskbar and dark modes on more apps and websites. I got to say MacOS dark modes are in general far more pleasant and readable than those in Windows 10.

I have to figure out the window layout I want to use. On my current super ultrawide it is typically 3x1 (3 windows side by side). With the 4K 16:9 I will most likely go either 2x2 or 3x2 grid with a couple of virtual desktops.

I am also looking into controlling the TV functions programmatically. The LGTV Node JS project on GitHub looks like a promising starting point. The API seems very undocumented but at least it should be possible to turn the TV off and control its UI by sending button presses. Ideally I would like to be able to switch inputs and picture presets like this.

For picture presets I will probably try to build a couple different ones. Maybe one for gaming in HDR with high peak brightness enabled, another one for using BFI and one that is darker for the desktop. Unlike desktop monitors, this TV allows per input presets as well as saving a lot more settings than just brightness, contrast and RGB sliders.

I am still heavily considering ordering the Club3D DP 1.4 to HDMI 2.1 adapter. I could see using it with custom ultrawide resolutions at 120 Hz, using full chroma with BFI and just getting 4K 120 Hz on the desktop for that smooth experience. It might be useful even after getting a HDMI 2.1 GPU since most GPUs have just one HDMI port but above all it would let me have a mostly complete experience with the display while I wait for the full Nvidia 3000 series lineup to be released.
 
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Yeah I figure if I do get the 48CX I'll use a monitor arm. My desk table is actually a dining table 37" wide so attaching a arm to the back side should work. Worse case I'd mount to wall, which I dont really want to do, but that could be done as well. However this is all dependent on two main things for me. How good the 48CX is and how good the new 3080Ti or 390 is in relation to the 48CX? Wont know that until those GPUs come out which is probably this Fall. Lot of waiting to do still. At least for me.
 
SixFootDuo said:
I briefly had the 55" CX and moved to a 55" C9 that was only $999 at Microcenter.

I didn't realize that the C9 does not have 4K @ 120Hz @ 4:2:0 ...... This is only a feature for the CX.

At any rate, very happy with my C9.

I went ahead and spent the $130 for the extended warranty which allows me to return the TV for up to 2 years. This will give me $1100 credit toward the 48" or just maybe I'll wait for the C11 in 2021 and put the $1,100 credit toward that set.

I should be able to get 4:4:4: @ 4K @ 120hz once I install my nVidia 3090 this Sept.
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MC warranties are the best.
 
First time using a TV as a monitor..but is it "normal" to have a TINY bit of overscan in certain games intermittently? And I mean tiny...like 1 mm shaved off the right side of the screen that goes away after turning the TV off and on, and even then it doesn't always show up. I have the latest firmware and the HDMI port is set to "PC" with Just Scan set to on.

And what is considered the best image quality settings for 4k60hz? 4:4:4 chroma and 8 bit?
 
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kasakka said:
My CX 48" got delayed from this Monday to "5-7" days so might get it at the turn of the month. Hopefully.
EDIT: Now delayed to start of next month :mad:
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Yeah everyday I check BestBuy and the date keeps getting pushed back further and further so I haven't even bothered to place an order yet. Currently it's sitting at Jul 21st if I order today...and what happened to all the people who claimed that they ordered one when it was listed at $1499 and would receive it in a matter of days? All those people should've received it by now yet there's been little update, unless of course they all got delayed too and the original dates were never correct.
 
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