LG 48CX

clayton006

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Thank you. Unfortunately the fix didn't work. Send screenshots and a dispdiag back to the Nvidia driver team for them to sort out.
So the final follow up to the CAC-1085 adapter and not being able to do 4k 120hz with the latest Nvidia drivers. It turns out I had to contact club3d directly and apply a firmware update to my adapters. So with the new fix from Nvidia plus the firmware has fixed the issue (again).

Hopefully no more driver issues in the future!
 

kasakka

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So the final follow up to the CAC-1085 adapter and not being able to do 4k 120hz with the latest Nvidia drivers. It turns out I had to contact club3d directly and apply a firmware update to my adapters. So with the new fix from Nvidia plus the firmware has fixed the issue (again).

Hopefully no more driver issues in the future!
Which firmware version did they send you?
 

Advil

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I tested to see if Peak Luminance could be set using CRU in Win 10 for essentially the same functionality as Win 11 for HGiG etc...

The answer is no. So I bit the bullet and installed Win 11 then went through exactly the same setup in CRU and can confirm that it DOES change the Peak Luminance value as it should.

So if you put 128 or whatever into "Max Luminance" in CRU under Win 10, it just ignores whatever you type into that field. Only the "Max Frame-avg" is adjustable in Win 10.
 

Advil

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Ok, so now I'm using Win 11, peak luminance set to 800, HDR mode on in windows, HGiG mode enabled on the TV when in HDR Game.

(I still turn HDR mode off in Windows when I'm not using it, I have SDR settings and a mode on the TV I like more for constant desktop SDR use. It's a little less bright for general use.)

Currently playing through one of the games on my HDR list, Horizon Zero Dawn. It's another drop dead gorgeous game in HDR just like Tomb Raider was.

Does anyone else have a recommendation for a game that has especially good HDR that they've played on an LG?
 

Lateralus

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Ok, so now I'm using Win 11, peak luminance set to 800, HDR mode on in windows, HGiG mode enabled on the TV when in HDR Game.

(I still turn HDR mode off in Windows when I'm not using it, I have SDR settings and a mode on the TV I like more for constant desktop SDR use. It's a little less bright for general use.)

Currently playing through one of the games on my HDR list, Horizon Zero Dawn. It's another drop dead gorgeous game in HDR just like Tomb Raider was.

Does anyone else have a recommendation for a game that has especially good HDR that they've played on an LG?
Any of these tickle your pickle?

https://www.thegamer.com/pc-games-best-hdr-support-resident-evil-village-battlefield-v/
 

Advil

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I already knew about Forza, God of War but Sea of Thieves looks like maybe a good one to check out. Have to see what state the game is in these days and if any of my friends want to play.
 

MistaSparkul

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Ok, so now I'm using Win 11, peak luminance set to 800, HDR mode on in windows, HGiG mode enabled on the TV when in HDR Game.

(I still turn HDR mode off in Windows when I'm not using it, I have SDR settings and a mode on the TV I like more for constant desktop SDR use. It's a little less bright for general use.)

Currently playing through one of the games on my HDR list, Horizon Zero Dawn. It's another drop dead gorgeous game in HDR just like Tomb Raider was.

Does anyone else have a recommendation for a game that has especially good HDR that they've played on an LG?

I liked Days Gone.
 

elvn

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Elden ring looks great with HDR peak set to 800 in the game's HDR settings along with adjusting the middle brightness/white point and color saturation in those same HDR settings. There are a lot of dark caves with firelight and magic effects, ourdoor time of day, cascading sunlight, and weather changes. Again a lot of magic effects in dark places too. Really stands out with HDR and just oled per pixel emissive side by side pixel luminance differences.

Jedi: Fallen order - same but with tech and magic. You have a bright lightsaber the whole game which contrasts a lot obviously.

Nioh2 - gorgeous monster design and highly magical weapons/weapon magic effects. One of the few games I actually took the time to peruse the defeated monsters "rogues gallery" in because they look so cool - especially on OLED and in HDR.

Immortals Fenyx Rising - a tongue in cheek greek "zelda breath of the wild" type game. Has long view distances on a powerful enough pc. Challenging and a little souls like battle wise on the hardest difficulty. Relies on counters more though.

Assassin's creed: odyssey

Pathfinder RPG games

There are a few others but I haven't put time into them to comment on them.

Don't forget that there are a number of games that support auto-HDR now too which gives some HDR highlights. Might be best for some games if you do the CRU 800 nit trick though, otherwise some might have blown out details. That goes for any hdr game whose dev's haven't included a well functioning HDR peak brightness slider (and a middle brightness or white point slider, saturation slider).
 

gamerk2

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Ok, almost certainly getting the 48" C2 in a week or two, paired with my 3080Ti. Just wanted to confirm a few things before I commit:

  • The C1 had an issue where near blacks would be washed out as FPS diverged from the panel refresh rate when VRR was active; is this still an issue or has LG resolved it?
  • Is there a way to disable/mitigate the ABL/How aggressive (annoying) is it?
  • Does the set come with a HDMI 2.1 cable, or do I need to purchase one?
    • If so, just go Monoprice?
  • Any other known problems/issues that need resolving?
 

elvn

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Ok, almost certainly getting the 48" C2 in a week or two, paired with my 3080Ti. Just wanted to confirm a few things before I commit:

  • The C1 had an issue where near blacks would be washed out as FPS diverged from the panel refresh rate when VRR was active; is this still an issue or has LG resolved it?
  • Is there a way to disable/mitigate the ABL/How aggressive (annoying) is it?
  • Does the set come with a HDMI 2.1 cable, or do I need to purchase one?
    • If so, just go Monoprice?
  • Any other known problems/issues that need resolving?

1 - I have no issues with near black on fps swings being obvious/aggressive to my eyes but I try to keep my fps average at 90 or more where possible. I try not to run my graph under 60 - 70fps+ on the common low end if I can tweak settings for it. Games usually swing plus and minus 15fps from the fps average number commonly and plus/minus up to 30fps (plus a few odd spikes and potholes) in the worst periods. A 70 or 80 fps average could already floating at 55 or 65fps common low and be something like 40 or 50 fps on the lower ranges of that graph for some games/settings. So I'm saying that it might be more obvious when "bottoming out" or hitting the molasses using VRR with the low end of the graph dropping to 30 - 40 fps (or less? :vomit: ) when dialing in an even lower average than 80 fps+ to start with on a game.

- near black flashing. There are certain games whose backgrounds are lower rez/macro blocked sort-of (like youtube/netflix compression) which exacerbate this I guess. I vaguely remember one of the rez evil remakes was an example mentioned in this thread, but I don't have any problems with seeing this in general gaming at 4k rez (and prioritizing HDR games / auto HDR games whenever possible).

2 - Several people in this thread use their TV as a desktop/app monitor rather than keeping 1 or more screens on the side for that like I do. They turn off [edit: ASBL completely - thanks for correction MistaSparkul]. I have no issues with ABL and ASBL for games and video content so I leave it (ASBL) on for my pc CX and my living room C1 (for movies and videos but also gaming with laptop part of the time in the living room). I don't find it aggressive at all for my usage scenarios. There might be a few exceptions with specific games where it could be but nothing I've played has been a bother like using a web browser (especially without using dark themes and customization plugins) and documents (especially those that don't work well with dark themes available for windows) might be.

I use dark themes in windows and I use "color changer" and "turn off the lights" plugins on my web browser on all of my devices. Both remember the settings per page and have a whitelist/blacklist so you don't have to micromanage common pages. The color changer is very quick on new pages though with a simple dropdown and a click. A lot of apps and pages now include their own dark mode option too.

3. I don't remember if it came with a hdmi 2.1 cable but the product page should tell you. I bought several braided 4k hdmi 2.1 guaranteed 120hz ones off of amazon for my screens, linked below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088T32WTX/
 
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Lateralus

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Heh, I actually noticed the flashing (minor) in Teardown the other day so at the moment I'm back to 120Hz BFI rather than VRR.

Still no ill effects from disabling ASBL here! :) Love it even more now, particularly (as elvn indicated) when using it for productivity/work/general use as the ABL/ASBL was never a problem in games or movies for me.

None of my 3 LG OLEDs have come with an HDMI cable. They do, however, come with batteries for the remote.
 

MistaSparkul

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Ok, almost certainly getting the 48" C2 in a week or two, paired with my 3080Ti. Just wanted to confirm a few things before I commit:

  • The C1 had an issue where near blacks would be washed out as FPS diverged from the panel refresh rate when VRR was active; is this still an issue or has LG resolved it?
  • Is there a way to disable/mitigate the ABL/How aggressive (annoying) is it?
  • Does the set come with a HDMI 2.1 cable, or do I need to purchase one?
    • If so, just go Monoprice?
  • Any other known problems/issues that need resolving?

1. The near black gamma shifting cannot be fixed, LG has known about this since the CX and 2 generations later the issue is still there, it has something to do with the TV not having multiple gamma curves for 60Hz and 120Hz or something along those lines. It's not as big of a deal as some people make it seem though, and you would probably be hard pressed to actually notice unless you did a side by side comparison.
2. ABL CANNOT BE DISABLED. People confuse ABL with ASBL, which CAN be disabled through the service menu. ASBL is the TV auto dimming itself if the APL on screen remains unchanged after a few minutes.
3. I don't remember but I just bought one off Amazon and have had no problems for the last 2 years.
4. The C2 removed 120Hz BFI but that may be irrelevant to you.
 

elvn

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1. The near black gamma shifting cannot be fixed, LG has known about this since the CX and 2 generations later the issue is still there, it has something to do with the TV not having multiple gamma curves for 60Hz and 120Hz or something along those lines. It's not as big of a deal as some people make it seem though, and you would probably be hard pressed to actually notice unless you did a side by side comparison.
2. ABL CANNOT BE DISABLED. People confuse ABL with ASBL, which CAN be disabled through the service menu. ASBL is the TV auto dimming itself if the APL on screen remains unchanged after a few minutes.
3. I don't remember but I just bought one off Amazon and have had no problems for the last 2 years.
4. The C2 removed 120Hz BFI but that may be irrelevant to you.

Yeah the near black gamma shift is from the gamma being set at 120hz so yes the lower your average frame rate and the lower the frame rates dip with VRR on the bottom end the more you will deviate from 120fpsHz gamma setting. No issues here running games at 80 fps (average) and higher typically.

(50fps) 65fps <<<<< 80 fps average >>>>>> 95fps (110fps)

(60fps) 75fps <<<<<<< 90fps average >>>>>> 105 fps (117fps capped)

(70fps) 85 fps <<<<<<< 100fps average >>>>> 115fps (117 capped)

The near black flickering issue I think is due to the white oled addition (WRGB) on very near black thresholds unless I'm remembering that wrong. They've applied a few different "fixes" before. The initial "fix" on the C9 was using some dithering on the near blacks (not the whole screen) but they found it lost detail so they dropped that one. Not sure what if anything is in firmwares to lessen the issue now but I haven't found content where I noticed it glaringly at all personally. I guess a few odd games exacerbate the issue though from people's reports.

abl/asbl - I never disabled asbl so mentioned it as disabling brightness limiter generally I guess :rolleyes:
I keep all of the protections on as I'm using as media and gaming display primarily. Thanks for the clarification though :D

I don't use BFI either as it doesn't work with VRR, works best with very high frame rate *minimums*, dims the screen luminance and is incompatible with HDR and auto HDR capable titles. I also find that kind of thing eye faitiguing over time even if not consciously noticing the flickering.

Edit: Dolby Vision being washed out was another issue at one point but they fixed that in firmware updates.
 
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elvn

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There is a way to "disable ABL" sort of, by changing your settings to remain under the threshold.

From the Rtings C9 Review, regarding SDR settings concerning ABL:
"If ABL bothers you, setting the contrast to '80' and setting Peak Brightness to 'Off' essentially disables ABL, but the peak brightness is quite a bit lower (246-258 cd/m² in all scenes)."

So it sort of avoids ABL by doing that but like

mirkendargen

replied to me when I posted that info over a year ago last June:

All that's really doing is turning "Automatic Brightness Limiter" to "Always Brightness Limiter", heh.

Still it would avoid ABL on one or more sets of named settings (like standard, APS or whatever) that you could swap to and from (either by navigating with the remote or using the mic+voice) when you are using the display for documents rather than media, HDR media, games, HDR and auto HDR games, etc. Then just engage the other named mode you want when you are viewing media. In fact that is probably best to have a dim setting for documents vs eyestrain, especially for things that don't have or benefit from dark modes.

There are a lot of named modes you can edit for specific usage on the LG OLEDs, and you can break them down and customize them so that they no longer have the settings their default named mode usage scenario is based on at all.

  • Vivid
  • Standard
  • APS
  • Cinema
  • Sports
  • Game
  • FILMMAKER MODE
  • iisf Expert (Bright Room)
  • isf Expert (Dark Room)
  • Cinema Home
They all have a separate HDR mode as well that you are able to edit once HDR content is running on one of those modes.
 

MistaSparkul

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If you want to avoid ABL in SDR that way then you could also try calibrating white to 150 nits and it will never trigger ABL at all.
 
Last edited:

clayton006

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There is a way to "disable ABL" sort of, by changing your settings to remain under the threshold.

From the Rtings C9 Review, regarding SDR settings concerning ABL:
"If ABL bothers you, setting the contrast to '80' and setting Peak Brightness to 'Off' essentially disables ABL, but the peak brightness is quite a bit lower (246-258 cd/m² in all scenes)."

So it sort of avoids ABL by doing that but like

mirkendargen

replied to me when I posted that info over a year ago last June:



Still it would avoid ABL on one or more sets of named settings (like standard, APS or whatever) that you could swap to and from (either by navigating with the remote or using the mic+voice) when you are using the display for documents rather than media, HDR media, games, HDR and auto HDR games, etc. Then just engage the other named mode you want when you are viewing media. In fact that is probably best to have a dim setting for documents vs eyestrain, especially for things that don't have or benefit from dark modes.

There are a lot of named modes you can edit for specific usage on the LG OLEDs, and you can break them down and customize them so that they no longer have the settings their default named mode usage scenario is based on at all.

  • Vivid
  • Standard
  • APS
  • Cinema
  • Sports
  • Game
  • FILMMAKER MODE
  • iisf Expert (Bright Room)
  • isf Expert (Dark Room)
  • Cinema Home
They all have a separate HDR mode as well that you are able to edit once HDR content is running on one of those modes.
Thanks for this. I'm going to try this out (setting Contrast to 80) and see how this works out. I'm usually in a super dark room so using maximum power save is what my displays are on anyway.
 

elvn

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Thanks for this. I'm going to try this out (setting Contrast to 80) and see how this works out. I'm usually in a super dark room so using maximum power save is what my displays are on anyway.

No problem. Just remember you can break down and change any of the named settings, then switch between them for different usages using a few clicks of the remote or by using the mic and just saying the name of the setting you want to switch to. That is , outside of game mode and HDR game mode, those would stay for games obviously.

For example, using one named setting you customized to be dim for reading documents, another for sdr media, photos, etc.

one or more sets of named settings (like standard, APS or whatever) that you could swap to and from (either by navigating with the remote or using the mic+voice) when you are using the display for documents rather than media, HDR media, games, HDR and auto HDR games, etc. Then just engage the other named mode you want when you are viewing media. In fact that is probably best to have a dim setting for documents vs eyestrain, especially for things that don't have or benefit from dark modes.

There are a lot of named modes you can edit for specific usage on the LG OLEDs, and you can break them down and customize them so that they no longer have the settings their default named mode usage scenario is based on at all.

  • Vivid
  • Standard
  • APS
  • Cinema
  • Sports
  • Game
  • FILMMAKER MODE
  • iisf Expert (Bright Room)
  • isf Expert (Dark Room)
  • Cinema Home
They all have a separate HDR mode as well that you are able to edit once HDR content is running on one of those modes.
 

gamerk2

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Finally bit the bullet; my 48" C2 should be arriving via Amazon tomorrow. Hopefully no issues with shipping/installation.
 

Pestluder

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Finally bit the bullet; my 48" C2 should be arriving via Amazon tomorrow. Hopefully no issues with shipping/installation.
Nice, just be careful with the handling.
I had the wife helping, and one of her rings left a light 10" scratch in the screen coating.
 
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res

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The absolutely worst thing about this monitor (C1) is the fact that you get used to it. I keep switching to my IPS 32" often to keep the C1 experience fresh.
 

gamerk2

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C2 is up and running. Took longer then I admit to realize that the 120Hz option was locked behind PC Resolutions on NVIDIA, but no major snafus otherwise. Picture is already noticeably sharper then my B6P (obviously, more then 8bpc is helping a ton).

Only complaint thus far is that I didn't realize the C2 doesn't have a clean way of routing cables through the stand; you have to go around. This wasn't the case on the B6P, and forced same cable mismanagement on my end.
 

elvn

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Nice, just be careful with the handling.
I had the wife helping, and one of her rings left a light 10" scratch in the screen coating.

That is love right there.
:banghead:

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That's a mistake I made a long time ago with belt buckles on a glass crt screen. I always make sure to switch into elastic waistband pants or shorts whenever I move screens now. I'd also remove a watch or rings, hanging necklaces or glasses on strings, etc. I broke too many watches working and smacking them on things when I was younger so I don't even bother with wearing/owning those anymore. When I'm working I wear a rubber black wedding band because metal is just asking for trouble there too. Wearing soft gloves or surgical/safety gloves to move screens isn't a bad idea either, just make sure they aren't a fabric that makes you lose your grip.
 

FrgMstr

Just Plain Mean
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Was talking to a reviewer a couple of days about OLED and thought this was worth sharing.

I am still using my 48" CX PUB for my primary desktop. I have logged 1800+ hours playing Rust in the last year. Rust has some VERY static elements in the UI and I was worried about burn-in. I do use Screen Shift and Logo Luminance to High to prevent burn-in and I use the Pixel Refresher about once a month. After watching your review I went back and closely examined those areas of the screen where those UI elements are static. I can seen ZERO burn-in around those elements using both a white and black background to look for any damage.

Anyway, great review, thought I would share my real world usage. I bought the 48" in December of 2020. And I bought a 65" for the living room TV as well after being so happy with this 48" on the desktop.
 

madpistol

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Was talking to a reviewer a couple of days about OLED and thought this was worth sharing.

I am still using my 48" CX PUB for my primary desktop. I have logged 1800+ hours playing Rust in the last year. Rust has some VERY static elements in the UI and I was worried about burn-in. I do use Screen Shift and Logo Luminance to High to prevent burn-in and I use the Pixel Refresher about once a month. After watching your review I went back and closely examined those areas of the screen where those UI elements are static. I can seen ZERO burn-in around those elements using both a white and black background to look for any damage.

Anyway, great review, thought I would share my real world usage. I bought the 48" in December of 2020. And I bought a 65" for the living room TV as well after being so happy with this 48" on the desktop.
I have over 11k combined usage hours on my CX with zero burn-in. I’m honestly shocked. I thought I was going to feel the need to replace it by now, but no. This thing is a rock star
 

Ruined

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Finally. While I think my 43 is perfect for my desk, I'll accept the 48 and take it.
I had a 43" 16:9 and felt it was too vertically tall for desk even pushed all the way back to the wall on my fairly large desk. For 16:9 display I think 32" is about as large as I would go, or 38" for 21:9. Really not sure how people use these massive displays on desk without discomfort
 

Zorachus

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Messages
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I heard this was discounted to $799 now.

Where can you actually find it in stock for that price? Best buy and all the local places around me in Chicago. Nobody stocks this LG 48 C1 anymore
 

Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
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Was talking to a reviewer a couple of days about OLED and thought this was worth sharing.

I am still using my 48" CX PUB for my primary desktop. I have logged 1800+ hours playing Rust in the last year. Rust has some VERY static elements in the UI and I was worried about burn-in. I do use Screen Shift and Logo Luminance to High to prevent burn-in and I use the Pixel Refresher about once a month. After watching your review I went back and closely examined those areas of the screen where those UI elements are static. I can seen ZERO burn-in around those elements using both a white and black background to look for any damage.

Anyway, great review, thought I would share my real world usage. I bought the 48" in December of 2020. And I bought a 65" for the living room TV as well after being so happy with this 48" on the desktop.
FWIW, I think I read that the best color to test for this is grey. I'm not sure if the shade matters, but I will occasionally throw up a full screen Paint window with a light grey fill. Nothing there every time I've checked.

Use mine for most of the day every single day, primarily for work with some YT vids or gaming in the evening. ASBL disabled using the service remote. No issues. Hard to fathom why people on the sidelines still have burn-in concerns at this point. Must be the from the early days, just like with plasma (our Hitachi plasma has probably 10s of thousands of hours on it. No burn-in and still an excellent picture).
 

GoldenTiger

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I heard this was discounted to $799 now.

Where can you actually find it in stock for that price? Best buy and all the local places around me in Chicago. Nobody stocks this LG 48 C1 anymore
You kind of missed the boat... It was discounted weeks ago. :(
 

elvn

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Was talking to a reviewer a couple of days about OLED and thought this was worth sharing.

I am still using my 48" CX PUB for my primary desktop. I have logged 1800+ hours playing Rust in the last year. Rust has some VERY static elements in the UI and I was worried about burn-in. I do use Screen Shift and Logo Luminance to High to prevent burn-in and I use the Pixel Refresher about once a month. After watching your review I went back and closely examined those areas of the screen where those UI elements are static. I can seen ZERO burn-in around those elements using both a white and black background to look for any damage.

Anyway, great review, thought I would share my real world usage. I bought the 48" in December of 2020. And I bought a 65" for the living room TV as well after being so happy with this 48" on the desktop.

That's good news. I use all of the protections on my LG OLEDs. Like you, loving the 48CX so much we sprung for and bought a big C1 for the living room after my FALD vizio from 2015 died.

Just to remind you and anyone else reading your reply:

From what I read the modern LG OLEDs reserve the top ~ 25% of their brightness/energy states outside of user available range for their wear-evening routine that is done in standby periodically while plugged in and powered. Primarily that, but along with the other brightness limiters and logo dimming, pixel shift, and the turn off the "screen" (emitters) trick if utilized, should extend the life of the screens considerably. With the ~25% wear-evening routine buffer you won't know how much you are burning down the emitter range until after you bottom out that buffer though. As far as I know there is no way to determine what % of that buffer is remaining. So you could be fine abusing the screen outside of recommended usage scenarios for quite some time thinking your aren't damaging it, and you aren't sort-of .. but you will be shortening it's lifespan wearing down the buffer of all the other emitters to match your consistently abused area(s).

A taskbar, persistent toolbar, or a cross of bright window frames the middle of the same 4 window positions or whatever.. might be the first thing to burn-in when the time comes but on the modern LG OLEDs I think the whole screen would be down to that buffer-less level and vulnerable at that point as it would have been wearing down the rest of the screen in the routine to compensate all along over a long time.

The buffer seems like a decent system for increasing OLED screen's lifespan considering what we have for now. It's like having a huge array of candles that all burn down unevenly - but with 25% more candle beneath the table so that you can push them all up a little once in awhile and burn them all down level again.
Or you might think of it like a phone or tablet's battery you are using that has an extra 25% charge module, yet after you turn on your device and start using it you have no idea what your battery charge level is. You can use more power hungry apps and disable your power saving features, screen timeouts, run higher screen brightness when you don't need to, leave the screen on when you aren't looking at it etc. and still get full charge performance for quite some time but eventually you'd burn through the extra 25% battery.
 

FrgMstr

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Like you, loving the 48CX so much we sprung for and bought a big C1 for the living room after my FALD vizio from 2015 died.
I had a last-gen (2010) 65" Samsung plasma that was finally going out. Had three periodic vertical green lines that would come and go. Retired it to the kids gaming room for the PS5, which works really AWESOME for that.
 

kasakka

2[H]4U
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
2,798
FWIW, I think I read that the best color to test for this is grey. I'm not sure if the shade matters, but I will occasionally throw up a full screen Paint window with a light grey fill. Nothing there every time I've checked.

Use mine for most of the day every single day, primarily for work with some YT vids or gaming in the evening. ASBL disabled using the service remote. No issues. Hard to fathom why people on the sidelines still have burn-in concerns at this point. Must be the from the early days, just like with plasma (our Hitachi plasma has probably 10s of thousands of hours on it. No burn-in and still an excellent picture).
I'd actually use R, G and B primary color screens as well as shades of gray to test as for example in Rtings' burn-in tests the burn in was most visible on particular colors.

On my CX 48", after two years of 8+ hour desktop use on weekdays with ASBL disabled there is still no burn in and it keeps working like a champ in my living room.
 

equinox654

Gawd
Joined
Apr 7, 2005
Messages
770
I'd actually use R, G and B primary color screens as well as shades of gray to test as for example in Rtings' burn-in tests the burn in was most visible on particular colors.

On my CX 48", after two years of 8+ hour desktop use on weekdays with ASBL disabled there is still no burn in and it keeps working like a champ in my living room.
What is your oled light setting?
I have had mine at 10 for desktop use for most of the two years I have had it. I'm at 2500 hours now.
Thinking about bumping it into the low 30s so that the colors are right.
 

Advil

2[H]4U
Joined
Jul 16, 2004
Messages
2,078
I had a last-gen (2010) 65" Samsung plasma that was finally going out. Had three periodic vertical green lines that would come and go. Retired it to the kids gaming room for the PS5, which works really AWESOME for that.
Yeah, we still have a 74" Mitsubishi DLP in the living room. The picture is still just flat awesome for 1080p content which is the bulk of what my folks watch anyway. I'm proud of that set, one that it is still alive after all these years, and two that I actually replaced the CPU/DLP Mirror chip once when the first one developed dead pixels. I didn't mess around and put it back together with AS5 thermal compound and it's been a perfect champ ever since. It could die tomorrow and I wouldn't care. We still have another bulb for it. I think it will either be the color wheel or the DLP chip going again that will finally kill it.
 

equinox654

Gawd
Joined
Apr 7, 2005
Messages
770
I had a
Yeah, we still have a 74" Mitsubishi DLP in the living room. The picture is still just flat awesome for 1080p content which is the bulk of what my folks watch anyway. I'm proud of that set, one that it is still alive after all these years, and two that I actually replaced the CPU/DLP Mirror chip once when the first one developed dead pixels. I didn't mess around and put it back together with AS5 thermal compound and it's been a perfect champ ever since. It could die tomorrow and I wouldn't care. We still have another bulb for it. I think it will either be the color wheel or the DLP chip going again that will finally kill it.
I had a 55” Mitsubishi DLP that I used for years. The only bad thing I have to say about it is that the brightness and color quality would go down pretty fast after a bulb change.
 

kasakka

2[H]4U
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
2,798
What is your oled light setting?
I have had mine at 10 for desktop use for most of the two years I have had it. I'm at 2500 hours now.
Thinking about bumping it into the low 30s so that the colors are right.
I had it between 20-30 running in SDR mode. That calibrated to about 120-130 nits on my CX 48".
 

MistaSparkul

2[H]4U
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
2,287
I've ran mine with Windows HDR permanently enabled, OLED light at 100, and the Windows SDR brightness slider set to 12. ASBL also disabled the first week I got the TV and so far no issues for 2 years. Pretty sure I will end up replacing the CX long before it develops any hints of burn in.
 
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