LG 48CX

[RanceJustice]

Just got lucky enough (I think) to grab one of the last refurb $999 models for the 48" CX! For whatever reason it seems that the 48" is almost never available at a local Microcenter (or elsewhere for that matter) refurbished w/ full warranty and like new quality for the sale price of $999, while the 55" model often has quite a few refurbs available for that price. Guess its all of you fine folks waiting to jump on the deal for the 48" given its legendary monitor usage! If I use it as a monitor, it will be compared to a 27" Samsung FreeSync2 1440p setup (though in decades past I used to have massive 37-42" Westinghouse and Philips respectively 1080p TVs... both of which were probably physically larger than the 48" CX given bezel sizes back in the day!)

I'm trying to decide if I'll be using it as a monitor or as a replacement for an old TV, but does anyone have suggestions for VESA wall mounts? I'm pretty sure its a 300x200 mount style and I'm looking at getting something that both folds very close/flat as possible to the wall and is capable of full motion. Ideas?

 

[Porter_]

Anyone treid god of war ? Highlights in the clouds for example are super overblown even at default 50/50 in game settings.
That's with lg c1 on hgig or dtm. no matter.
3rd image is with brightness ingame set to 25

I’ve probably put about 10 hours into the game, on a CX with default brightness 50/50, and I don’t recall noticing overblown specular highlights. But honestly the game didn’t grab me so I stopped playing. I’ll take another look sometime this week.

 

[Lateralus]

Just got lucky enough (I think) to grab one of the last refurb $999 models for the 48" CX! For whatever reason it seems that the 48" is almost never available at a local Microcenter (or elsewhere for that matter) refurbished w/ full warranty and like new quality for the sale price of $999, while the 55" model often has quite a few refurbs available for that price. Guess its all of you fine folks waiting to jump on the deal for the 48" given its legendary monitor usage! If I use it as a monitor, it will be compared to a 27" Samsung FreeSync2 1440p setup (though in decades past I used to have massive 37-42" Westinghouse and Philips respectively 1080p TVs... both of which were probably physically larger than the 48" CX given bezel sizes back in the day!)

I'm trying to decide if I'll be using it as a monitor or as a replacement for an old TV, but does anyone have suggestions for VESA wall mounts? I'm pretty sure its a 300x200 mount style and I'm looking at getting something that both folds very close/flat as possible to the wall and is capable of full motion. Ideas?

Enjoy, brother! It's seriously the most impressive display I've ever used while we wait on MicroLED. The obvious answer is to buy another one and use one as a monitor and the other as a TV.

 

[elvn]

I use 43" 4k samsung VA tv's ~ $320 - $370 each in portrait on each side of my 48CX as monitors. I most commonly split them into 3 windows high or 2/3 + 1/3 window sizes on one and a 40% bottom browser/email/text editor/3rd party file manager/other app window with 3 small communications windows above it in a ribbon + some system readout widgets above it on the other screen. I have a 15key streamdeck tied into some displayfusion pro app hotkeys so I can pop windows around on the fly or easily just hit a "home button" that triggers a default saved window position profile for my most common open apps. I could get away with only using one side panel along with the CX but I like it this way. I use the cx as a media stage for games and videos, images, maps..etc.. and I do the turn off the screen trick (that just turns the emitters off without dropping the monitor out of the array) when not using it actively, even when pausing a game or just focusing on a side monitor for awhile. I can "turn of the screen" so quickly now it's a reflex comparable to minimizing whatever window/video/game is running on the CX..

Something like this on a little smaller scale and without being 4:3 in the middle


Just a reminder that the 20/20 vision threshold starts a 33.5" viewing distance so an abnormally deep desk, using a bench desk+an island desk, or using a tv stand or wall mount with the desk farther away from it are probably needed to sit far enough away. I typically sit 38" to 48" which makes the effective pixel density even higher to my eyeballs/brain.
https://hardforum.com/threads/lg-48cx.1991077/post-1045022571



Wall mounts work but are more permanent. I prefer modularity so if I was buying a whole mount I'd go with one of the floor monitor arms listed throughout this thread. If you need full articulation including big tilt and full spin there is only one that I've seen and it's a little more expensive.

This is what I think was the best articulating floor stand I found when looking but it's pricey:



https://www.displays2go.com/P-16610/Black-Cheap-LCD-TV-Stands-Economy-Design-32-47-Monitors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00681HGB6/


I'd probably get this one below if I was going to switch from it from being on the included stand (on another desk). That is, unless I absolutely required a lot of articulation like tilt and spin. Otherwise you could just roll it on the wheels outside of those requirements.

https://www.amazon.com/Kanto-MTM65PL-Mobile-Stand-Screens/dp/B00RPP3262

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kanto-...el-tvs-up-to-65-black/5022900.p?skuId=5022900



There is also what looks like a good floor foot stand model at monoprice that someone linked earlier.

 

[sdfg]

Hello lovely people.

Forgive me in advanced, I know this has probably been talked to death, and I did do a search but the search results are awkward to navigate (not possible to sort by date? o.o) Anyway, I need a displayport to HDMI adapter. I got one of the 4k60 cables which was fine right up until last night when I tried to play something in HDR and it just didn't. So I thought, well, it's going to be about a hundred years until I can upgrade to a 3090 with more HDMI ports, may as well go full on uber-adapter. The forum results show Club3d, but also mentions of other ones, so I'm just trying to work out what to go for.

I have a 2070S, ideally if I can get the whole shebang (4k@120@4:4:4 I think it is?) that would be ideal.

Any friendly links to amazon or something? I'm in the UK.

 

[RanceJustice]

Hello lovely people.

Forgive me in advanced, I know this has probably been talked to death, and I did do a search but the search results are awkward to navigate (not possible to sort by date? o.o) Anyway, I need a displayport to HDMI adapter. I got one of the 4k60 cables which was fine right up until last night when I tried to play something in HDR and it just didn't. So I thought, well, it's going to be about a hundred years until I can upgrade to a 3090 with more HDMI ports, may as well go full on uber-adapter. The forum results show Club3d, but also mentions of other ones, so I'm just trying to work out what to go for.

I have a 2070S, ideally if I can get the whole shebang (4k@120@4:4:4 I think it is?) that would be ideal.

Any friendly links to amazon or something? I'm in the UK.

I too am curious about these - it has been a long time since I've had to use HDMI! I was lucky enough to come across a 3090 Strix so I have both DisplayPort and HDMI ports, but in the case of the LG OLED CX48 can I just pop it over to a HDMI cable and get the full quality, GSync HDR / FreeSync Premium VRR , 120hz capability, etc... ? I remember there was a time awhile ago when VRR forms on HDMI were cumbersome to say the least and you had to use DisplayPort for decent FreeSync / GSync compatible usage. I also recall reading something that the LG OLED CX could only use 40 of the 48gbps HDMI spec, but that may have been a firmware glitch or otherwise is incorrect/fixed?

Is it better for me to find a converter similar to what sdfg is mentioning and get a good DisplayPort 1.4 cable, or just grab a high quality HDMI cable and that will be suitable?

 

[Porter_]

I too am curious about these - it has been a long time since I've had to use HDMI! I was lucky enough to come across a 3090 Strix so I have both DisplayPort and HDMI ports, but in the case of the LG OLED CX48 can I just pop it over to a HDMI cable and get the full quality, GSync HDR / FreeSync Premium VRR , 120hz capability, etc... ? I remember there was a time awhile ago when VRR forms on HDMI were cumbersome to say the least and you had to use DisplayPort for decent FreeSync / GSync compatible usage. I also recall reading something that the LG OLED CX could only use 40 of the 48gbps HDMI spec, but that may have been a firmware glitch or otherwise is incorrect/fixed?

Is it better for me to find a converter similar to what sdfg is mentioning and get a good DisplayPort 1.4 cable, or just grab a high quality HDMI cable and that will be suitable?

With your 3090, which has HDMI 2.1, all you need is a ‘high-speed’ HDMI cable (sometimes labeled ‘8K’). Regardless of how it’s branded you need one with 48 gbps bandwidth. Here is what I bought and it works perfectly with my 3080:

Monoprice Ultra 8K High Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, 48Gbps, 8K, Dynamic HDR, eARC - DynamicView Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WNM2NJ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_5ukpLNd6qw8iE

 

[madpistol]

Just played some Overwatch with Nvidia Reflex enabled on my CX 55. It was amazing, even with me artificially limiting the framerate to 115 to keep it within GSYNC range.

I'm serious when I say my ONLY regret on the CX 55 is that I only got the 2 year Best Buy warranty. This display is so freakin good, I have a hard time believing we are going to see something substantially better in the next several years.

 

[RanceJustice]

F

With your 3090, which has HDMI 2.1, all you need is a ‘high-speed’ HDMI cable (sometimes labeled ‘8K’). Regardless of how it’s branded you need one with 48 gbps bandwidth. Here is what I bought and it works perfectly with my 3080:

Monoprice Ultra 8K High Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, 48Gbps, 8K, Dynamic HDR, eARC - DynamicView Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WNM2NJ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_5ukpLNd6qw8iE

All right, thanks. Grabbed one just to be sure - and its functionality with HDMI is no different than other monitors connecting to via a comparable DisplayPort?

Also does anyone have any suggestions on a wall mount? There are quite a few on Amazon and it seems that a 48" display (which has a VESA 400x300 mount requirement, right?) seems split between 2 different wall mount "styles' - either those that have an X-shaped bracket (which seem to range from 30-something to 50-something inch displays and max out around 400x400 VESA) or those that have 2 vertical bar style brackets (which seem to be for larger, 40-something to 70-something displays and have VESA that be like 600x400 or larger). I'm slightly leaning toward the 2-bar brackets because they seem to support the TV mount with 2 arms, whereas the X bracket its all on a single articulated arm. Especially for use with my desk (but also if I decide to use it as a bedroom TV or something) it will be collapsed back as far against the wall as possible most likely ; almost all of these mounts seem to have about a 2.5-3" minimum gap and that seems fine, considering cables and the like. Apparently the totally flat non articulated mounts go back to about 1.5" but that is loss of a lot of configuration and not a huge benefit .

On Amazon there are quite a few of these (2 arm, fully articulated etc) mounts that would seem to work - they all have the expected " Aliexpress style hundreds of names for essentially the same thing" so I'm guessing the quality is all about comparable? Thanks

 

[elvn]

I'm more of a fan of the thin spine floor stands with the "wall mount" style tv brackets on them so that I can move them when needed. I listed some of those a few posts back in a quote.

Simple flat-footed thin spine ones like this:


or the similar one on monoprice:


Or these on wheels:

This is what I think was the best articulating floor stand I found when looking but it's pricey:



https://www.displays2go.com/P-16610/Black-Cheap-LCD-TV-Stands-Economy-Design-32-47-Monitors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00681HGB6/


I'd probably get this one below if I was going to switch from it from being on the included stand (on another desk). That is, unless I absolutely required a lot of articulation like tilt and spin. Otherwise you could just roll it on the wheels outside of those requirements.

https://www.amazon.com/Kanto-MTM65PL-Mobile-Stand-Screens/dp/B00RPP3262

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kanto-...el-tvs-up-to-65-black/5022900.p?skuId=5022900



There is also what looks like a good floor foot stand model at monoprice that someone linked earlier.

You can buy adapter plates to adapt between a lot of vesa sizes. They are a metal plate drilled with holes in various locations and come with thumb screws.

The LG CX has 300x200 VESA mounting holes.

These adapters go from 50 x 50 up to 400 x 300.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MCMTCP3/
..

This VESA Adapter Plate allows 32” to 55” flat panel TV’s with large VESA patterns to fit standard mounts.
Adapter Function - Makes it possible for 50x50mm, 75x75mm, and 100x100mm VESA mounts to fit 200x100mm, 200x200mm, 200x300mm, 200x400mm, 300x200mm, and 400x200mm VESA hole patterns.
Solid Steel Construction - A durable steel design ensures long-lasting quality and enables this sturdy bracket plate to support weights up to 66 lbs.

--------------------------------

I used these plates on my 43" TVs (200mm x 200mm) so they'd fit on giant ergotron LX HD arms that were designed for monitor vesa holes. So I was adapting the TV holes down to the ergotron arm's built in mounting plate.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079SF6XG9/

..This adapter plate allows you to convert a VESA pattern to one of the following VESA patterns – 50 x 50 mm, 75 x 75 mm, 100 x 100 mm, and 200 x 200 mm (other VESA conversion kits available)
..HARDWARE INCLUDED: This VESA conversion kit comes with adapter plate screws, nuts, M6 screws, M8 screws, washers, and plastic spacers

So you might be able to adapt up to a tv stand/bracket you had your heart set on. They are mainly just a plate with an array of holes. As long as the mounting screws will fit the tv mount once the plate is attached to the back of the tv housing with spacers you should be good.

B&H has ones that go up to at least 800x400
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=vesa plate&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma

Some TV stands and monitor arms come with types of extenders but they don't always scale up/down much and sometimes are weaker wing slat extenders compared to a full plate adapter.

 

[Armenius]

Anyone know the odds of a CX/C1 box fitting in a small 2 door coupe? It looks like a pretty small box. I guess my concern is whether or not the front seat will tilt forward enough to get it back there.

Also is this easy for one person to carry?

I brought home a 49" TV in my newer Mustang before, but I had to take it out of the box to fit in the trunk. The depth of the box was a little too big to fit at the angle it needed to go through the trunk's opening. Clearance over the backseats with them down was not an issue. It was too long to just sit in the trunk, but not nearly long enough to hit the front seats.

 

[elvn]

You could always invest in a blanket + ton of bungies and spider web hashtag that sucker around the box and then tightly through the open windows around the roof.

*I take no responsibility for any failures based on this suggestion lol. Don't let a blanket or the tv rip away and blind another driver or anything. Keep it tight



If you can't fit it inside of course --
I'd go around the box first like a hashtag (unlike the schematic) so it can't slide out forward or back which is where your momentum would send it most of the time accelerating and breaking. I'd also loop around across the interior of the roof of the car through the windows, not just hooking on the window frames just to be clear if you weren't getting that from the picture. Attach to the hashtag grid of bungies you already made so it can't slide fwd/back... and if you want to be extra cautious throw a few more bungies all the way around across the top like belts. Putting something between the objects and the car helps to prevent scratching but a box probably wouldn't be bad. You could wrap the box in a blanket and then hashtag bungie it cross-ways. If not going to use a blanket, you can tape over the staples with painter's tape if you are worried about it and try not to have any bungie hooks on the bottom pressing against the car (plastic hook bungie cables are safer in that regard). Keep the strands tight but don't over tighten extremely to the point of damaging your window frames or molding. I wouldn't bother going under the body of the car like in that picture either. Through the windows (and optionally to the tailgate/bumper on the back as well though prob not necessary) should be good. Try not to drive too crazy but if you tie down something like that with a liberal amount of bungies it should be fine, even in high winds.

I have a mid-size/sport sized truck. I put a headache rack on it that I can attach to along with side bungie mount eyelets in the short bed so I don't have trouble with most things personally but I can remember resorting to doing things like what I have described above when I was younger with small cars starting out. I was able to fit the 48CX box into my truck's full extended cab's back seat though just barely. It's not a huge full sized truck.

 

[kasakka]

Anyone know the odds of a CX/C1 box fitting in a small 2 door coupe? It looks like a pretty small box. I guess my concern is whether or not the front seat will tilt forward enough to get it back there.

Also is this easy for one person to carry?

Definitely measure first. You should be able to find the box dimensions. It can be carried by one person but for setting it up I would recommend two people. Because the panel is so thin from everywhere but the bottom it's kind of awkward to move around. If you plan to mount it (and you should, the stock stand is a pile of crap!) then having two people will help a lot.

 

[vegeta535]

Anyone know the odds of a CX/C1 box fitting in a small 2 door coupe? It looks like a pretty small box. I guess my concern is whether or not the front seat will tilt forward enough to get it back there.

Also is this easy for one person to carry?

I brought home a 55" CX in my 2018 Ford Fusion. It was a tight fit but I got it in there.

 

[elvn]

Definitely measure first. You should be able to find the box dimensions. It can be carried by one person but for setting it up I would recommend two people. Because the panel is so thin from everywhere but the bottom it's kind of awkward to move around. If you plan to mount it (and you should, the stock stand is a pile of crap!) then having two people will help a lot.

LG CXP Specs

Package Weight	52.1 lb
Box Dimensions (LxWxH)	50.38 x 30.25 x 8"

From a bestbuy Q&A answer it might be even a bit smaller idk:

The W x H x D dimensions that the LG CX 48 inch Class 4K Smart OLED TV w/ AI ThinQ® (48.2'' Diag), Model # OLED48CXBPUA is shipped in are 48.2" x 29.5" x 8.1" with a weight of 49.4"...

==============================

I did it myself but it was definitely a risk. It's very thin like a pane of glass so I could see the possibility of torque snapping/damaging or accidentally bumping,tapping, pressing it into something damaging it just when carrying it if you fumble or tip it. I unboxed mine right next to my desk and carried it from the bottom as much as I could but I can see where it could go bad. Mounting it to a stand by yourself could be harder even though it would be lighter without the stock foot, unless you mounted it face down and lifted the whole stand perhaps. (I did both of my 43" screens using the face down method, then lifting the screen+articulating arm and sticking it on a pre-mounted monitor arm pole).

I agree that a floor stand is a great way to go ultimately but I don't think the stock stand is that bad if you have a desk deep enough or are using a separate desk/bench/table to mount the screen on. The "foot" stand for the LG CX is long, very low profile (raising the tv only 1+3/8 inches) and is solid cold metal faced unlike some tv stands that look like metal or plastic firewood sticks or bows you prop the tv up on (and higher from the surface). That LG CX TV low profile "foot" is very dark in color too. The top of my desks are black so it blends in. The larger part on the back is never seen since there is a screen in portrait on each side and they all have their backs to a wall. All I see is that little metal low slope skirt and it blends in with the black desk surface it's on pretty much.





someday I'll get a floor mount stand but I'd probably do that after remodeling the room and floor so it would be awhile yet. I might have to end up get a stand for all three screens to make it work too so this will do for now.

 

[HiCZoK]

I’ve probably put about 10 hours into the game, on a CX with default brightness 50/50, and I don’t recall noticing overblown specular highlights. But honestly the game didn’t grab me so I stopped playing. I’ll take another look sometime this week.

I am starting to think it's just clouds... but it's hard to tell.
Hey let me know i you happen to ever try it again if you notice it. All other games look fine so it's probably ... bad clouds hdr mastering by sony

 

[sdfg]

OK, so having spent the past 4 days going through the past 100-odd pages of the thread, three things have become apparent to me:

1) Everyone thinking they could get a 30xx when they came out is hilarious in hindsight.
2) Everyone going "Cyberpunk is going to be fantastic, look at how much effort they have put into the graphics" is equally hilarious.
3) The Club3D adapter CEC-1085 only has a single issue remaining, which is that VRR won't work.

I've ordered the CEC-1085 and a CEC-1372. Reading through the pages also lead me to try out BFI (TruMotion) out, and holy bejeezus is that good! It does darken the display an awful lot but what a difference it makes in smoothness. Especially doing the ufotest. I might try with it on at 120Hz seeing as I can't get VRR, see how it looks. Adjust oled brightness up a bit (I only run at 15 anyway, so I have plenty of overhead).

 

[RanceJustice]

Huh, you know I hadn't considered a floor mounted stand; I have an oversized old Ikea "Jerker" desk near the wall so I am not sure that a floor mount could properly "fit" under the desk and come up behind it close to the wall. Still, maybe its worth considering the amount of changes (ie my APC and a whole bunch of other stuff below my desk etc) if there was an advantage to a full motion floor stand vs a full motion wall mount.

Aside from that, a few questions. I just recently decided to first test the CX48 as a monitor and it just barely fits semi-comfortably toward the back of my desk and is hooked up to my 3090 using the exact high speed HDMI cable suggested. Aside from some basics (ie TV set to the Picture: Game setting and enabled the FreeSync option on the TV itself , I manually set my Nvidia Control Panel resolution ; noted that the HDTV 4K option did NOT work only allowing up to 60hz, you had to go to PC list to get the 4K 120hz. ), I've not done any real configuration. I am interested in configuring it to get the best settings for a PC monitor for general use including gaming - I saw that there was a YT video on the previous page that suggested some of the best configurations. Is that still the best /most up to date configuration resource for all the various settings? I'd prefer to get it set up first for SDR mode, but now that I have a monitor that is capable of the highest tier of HDR (with nigh infinite local dimming, no less!) I'd be curious to give it a try. Note: I have just recently updated it to the latest available software which it claims is 03.21.21

In addition a few other things I've noticed and/or potential issues you may know how to solve with ease..

First, on Windows 10 do any of you have a screen saver active? I remember reading that even though this generation of OLEDs is less likely to burn in or even have temporary permanence, its still best to either turn off the display or activate a screen saver, right? Well, unfortunately W10 doesn't seem to want to do either! I found the "Screen Saver Settings" while searching for it and set it to either "blank" (which is just a black screen) or "mystify" (swirling colors), a 2 minute wait time and hit apply and... nothing! It does not seem to ever work. I can manually force these on by hitting "preview" every time I leave the PC, but that's pretty damn annoying. Likewise, I have my power management set to turn off the display after 3 minutes (Balanced mode, but set to never sleep) but that doesn't seem to happen either. Thinking back the display off thing never seems to have been working, but I just didn't mind very much using my old AH-VA monitor since there was no real concern of burn in. ; I never had a screen saver set up either. I'm guessing that there is something (I have applications like Steam, Firefox, Discord or Element running in the background as it were ) keeping it from ever sleeping or turning off? Is there a way I can check what is holding it up? Linux , at least in the quick test I ran, seems to have no problem with activating its screen saver automatically.

Second, this may be addressed in configuration/change of settings, but I noticed that it seems like the brightness is somewhat dynamic. It does seem to darken a little when idle, or sometimes depending on what's on the screen but there are also times that the brightness or contrast seems to to grow lighter globally even when on something very dark like [H] forum pages. Perhaps this results from some onboard setting (guessing the AI Brightness but it seemed even when turned off something similar remained?) and offers some sort of protective function for the OLED display?

Third, did anyone run into some issues with a slight overscan? It seems like some items are "off screen" such as in W10 being able to see the line below the taskbar icons to show an application is open (ie Steam or Firefox etc) on the bottom of the screen? For awhile it seemed the left side of the screen had ever so slightly cut off certain desktop icons, but that seems to be fixed now for some reason. Also, what application/text scaling percentage are you using? W10 amazingly suggests 300% which makes me feel like i'm looking some sort of 640x480 giant thing massively zoomed in with pitifully little room for anything, but maybe I'm just not configuring things properly. What do you prefer?

Thanks

 

[Advil]

I'm utterly in love with my CX.

If there is one thing I think is utterly stupid it's the super thin screen on the top half. This thing is EXPENSIVE and it's far FAR too easy to break it moving it. There isn't ANY point in it being that thin on the top since it has to have the thick portion on the bottom anyway. It needed enough thickness to make the screen durable enough to easily survive moving it.

It's got enough weight to it even without the base on to make the idea of transporting it to another room or to another home seriously scary.

 

[mirkendargen]

I'm utterly in love with my CX.

If there is one thing I think is utterly stupid it's the super thin screen on the top half. This thing is EXPENSIVE and it's far FAR too easy to break it moving it. There isn't ANY point in it being that thin on the top since it has to have the thick portion on the bottom anyway. It needed enough thickness to make the screen durable enough to easily survive moving it.

It's got enough weight to it even without the base on to make the idea of transporting it to another room or to another home seriously scary.

Fascination with thinner=better, just like phones. Take all the technological advancements that have allowed phones to be as thin as they are today, and instead make them the same thickness as 5 years ago and use the extra room for a 3.5mm jack and a bigger battery. It's so stupid.

 

[Lateralus]

Guys, what is the best VSync setting to select in NVCP? Mine has been set to Fast for a while now, although I usually disable VSync in game options. I assume the setting in NVCP only applies if I enable VSync in-game (can someone confirm that)? Fast seems to be the best of all worlds with the fewest compromises from what I've read, but I wanted to make sure. Curiously, Adaptive VSync has disappeared from the list of options. I guess that was removed in a previous driver update?

 

[HiCZoK]

Guys, what is the best VSync setting to select in NVCP? Mine has been set to Fast for a while now, although I usually disable VSync in game options. I assume the setting in NVCP only applies if I enable VSync in-game (can someone confirm that)? Fast seems to be the best of all worlds with the fewest compromises from what I've read, but I wanted to make sure. Curiously, Adaptive VSync has disappeared from the list of options. I guess that was removed in a previous driver update?

with vrr enabled, use vsync ON in nvcp.
It is not the asme vsync as without vrr. wih VRR, vsync takes care of just the tearing and ceiling part.
Disable vsync in games

 

[Lateralus]

with vrr enabled, use vsync ON in nvcp.
It is not the asme vsync as without vrr. wih VRR, vsync takes care of just the tearing and ceiling part.
Disable vsync in games

Thank you!

 

[Porter_]

I am starting to think it's just clouds... but it's hard to tell.
Hey let me know i you happen to ever try it again if you notice it. All other games look fine so it's probably ... bad clouds hdr mastering by sony

Just checked - yep specular highlights are all overblown.

 

[elvn]

Reshade supposedly works with HDR games (on PC) but it might be buggy on a few. You might be able to experiment with the various filters you can add to reshade in order to adjust curves for those highlights.

The lightroom filter can do a lot of things that separate filters were formerly used to, if you mess with enough of it's settings.

Lightroom is a color correcting software made by adobe. It's kinda similar to photoshop but has basically more options to edit colors, lighting and shadows your way, martymcfly has made the lightroom shader in quint collection which basically has most of the features present in lightroom.

--------------------------------
Otherwise there are things like the curves filter, liftgammaGain and some others but I think you can do most stuff in lightroom now like I said.

The middle row in the LiftGammaGain setting is the midtones, top is the shadows, and bottom row is the highlights. The three columns are red, green, blue, in that order. Hope that helps!

----------------

You can save multiple named filter sets per game in Reshade so one or more filter edits can be used or switched between specifically on a per game basis. You can also save different sets for different times of day ~ room lighting conditions since saturation/gamma/contrast change a lot to your eyes and brain in relation to the lighting environment. I try to keep my pc room medium lighting in the day and down to dim/dark at night. It always looks best in the dim/dark environment but with reshade I can adjust some games to be more vibrant and brighter for daytime/brighter room conditions without having to lose game picture mode or screwing up my set LG OSD settings.

Right now I'm using FakeHDR, quint-Lightroom, and a sharpening filter on Darksiders3 (SDR game). I haven't tried reshade on any HDR games yet but I bought assassin's creed odyssey gold ed. and immortals: fenyx rising at very good sale prices recently. They are both supposed to have very good HDR implementations. I do have god of war on PS4 but I don't use that system much (and there is no reshade for consoles afaik).



* I hit "watch later" or "save" .. or watch a little of a HDR youtube vid to get it into my history, then swap to the youtube app on the LG CX to get to youtube HDR.

 

[hhkb]

I have this really annoying issue with Dolby Vision files on plex / nvidia shield. It plays fine, but the Dolby Vision icon keeps popping up throughout the movie. Any idea how to fix it?

 

[HiCZoK]

Just checked - yep specular highlights are all overblown.

Thank YOu! So I am not completely crazy

Btw, 03.11.21 update for 48" C1 just hit and they have not fixed auto sound mode changing still... Every time I reboot my pc or enable win10 hdr, audio preset changes to "game optimizer" and I prefer using "cinema mode".
It's ok on ps5 or when I enable tv after pc fully boots (until I enable hdr or reboot). Is very annoying on pc.
Anyone found a way around this ? I am contacting LG on twitter but they insist on ticket and I've tried that with no luck. I know other users have the same thing

 

[mirkendargen]

I had some eARC oddities with sound cutting in and out yesterday that I'd never had before updating to 03.11.21. Anyone else noticed anything? It could have just been a coincidence.

And the quickstart+ pixel shift bug is still there

 

[HiCZoK]

I had some eARC oddities with sound cutting in and out yesterday that I'd never had before updating to 03.11.21. Anyone else noticed anything? It could have just been a coincidence.

And the quickstart+ pixel shift bug is still there

no idea about eARC (do I use it with ps5 or pc if I only have internal speakers?)
What is the pixel shift bug?

 

[elvn]

I had some eARC oddities with sound cutting in and out yesterday that I'd never had before updating to 03.11.21. Anyone else noticed anything? It could have just been a coincidence.

No problems with eARC cutting out so far. A few times (perhaps after windows updates) I did have to go back into my win10 sound settings, device settings, and switch it back to 7.1 surround from stereo though but that is windows 10 not the TV. I have an avr with 7 satellite speakers + a subwoofer.

I'm using a sharc device and one issue is that if I've left my receiver off or receiver and LG CX off and just boot them both up, it takes up to 5 minutes for the earc to kick in. The first time that happened I thought it wasn't going to work and reconnected cables, power cable from the sharc, etc a bunch of times but now I'm realized it just takes a few minutes to kick in. Once it all initializes properly it runs great with zero delays or bugs even when switching between audio devices on windows 10 (my mixamp + headphones and back) or switching to my shield and back.

Another general sound issue I have is that when I switch my AVR to my nvidia shield which feeds from the AVR to the TV, I obviously lose all PC sound the would normally be downstream from the tv. Sound from whatever I might still be running on the PC or on my other two screens in the array but that's not really a fault of the TV. I have a streamdeck button that I can switch to headphones but I might hook up my small pair of usb speakers to swap to similarly or run a 3.5mm out from the mixamp to some small powered speakers just so I can hear general windows/apps notifications or do webcam calls etc. while watching a video on the shield.

On the TV side of that scenario - I do have to manually switch to PCM sound in the LG CX's OSD and back to "pass through" every time I want to use the LG CX's WebOS Youtube app for HDR youtube videos which is annoying. Luckily I don't view those very often especially since HDR youtube channels (like "walking japan" or whatever) usually have a static logo which I don't like leaving running for too long on a loop if I can avoid it. I use it once in awhile when I want to watch a HDR gameplay video like the one I linked above. It would be nice if LG stored a different set of sound settings on my pc named hdmi input from the LG WebOS apps/Youtube so that I could just leave the webOS/youtube on PCM without changing the PC input from "pass through" sound on eARC.

 

[mirkendargen]

no idea about eARC (do I use it with ps5 or pc if I only have internal speakers?)
What is the pixel shift bug?

When you have Quickstart+ enabled, sometimes when you turn the TV off and back on again pixel shift will be enabled even though the setting shows disabled.

No problems with eARC cutting out so far. A few times (perhaps after windows updates) I did have to go back into my win10 sound settings, device settings, and switch it back to 7.1 surround from stereo though but that is windows 10 not the TV. I have an avr with 7 satellite speakers + a subwoofer.

I'm using a sharc device and one issue is that if I've left my receiver off or receiver and LG CX off and just boot them both up, it takes up to 5 minutes for the earc to kick in. The first time that happened I thought it wasn't going to work and reconnected cables, power cable from the sharc, etc a bunch of times but now I'm realized it just takes a few minutes to kick in.

Another general sound issue I have is that when I switch my AVR to my nvidia shield which feeds from the AVR to the TV, I obviously lose all PC sound the would normally be downstream from the tv. Sound from whatever I might still be running on the PC or on my other two screens in the array but that's not really a fault of the TV. I have a streamdeck button that I can switch to headphones but I might hook up my small pair of usb speakers to swap to similarly just so I can hear general windows/apps notifications or do webcam calls etc. while watching a video on the shield.

On the TV side of that scenario - I do have to manually switch to PCM sound in the LG CX's OSD and back to "pass through" every time I want to use the LG CX's WebOS Youtube app for HDR youtube videos which is annoying. Luckily I don't view those very often especially since HDR youtube channels (like "walking japan" or whatever) usually have a static logo which I don't like leaving running for too long on a loop if I can avoid it. I use it once in awhile when I want to watch a HDR gameplay video like the one I linked above.

I've noticed the same thing. I have a 48" at the computer and a 77" in the living room. The 77" has a Shield connected to it, the 48" has a computer and PS5 connected to it. On the 77" I also have to switch around "Auto" and "Passthru" depending on the content type. For DTS movies (and probably multichannel PCM since this is Plex decoding the DTS to PCM) I have to set it one way or the audio is stereo no matter what, but if I leave it set that way TrueHD/Atmos tracks don't play at all . It's not the end of the world, but a bit annoying. If only "passthru" was actually just "passing through"...

On the 48", I just have both the computer and the PS5 output 5.1 PCM (I have a 5.1 setup in the office) and I don't have to fiddle with anything.

 

[HiCZoK]

I've tested input lag booster on c1 a bit with demons souls, hdr, hgig, 60fps game mode.
I noticed that "boost" option lowers gamma and makes shadow detail tiny bit more visble. not full out washed out image but for sure goes like from 2.2 to maybe 2.1... or not even that much. it is slight but it is there.
Anyone else notices that? (dark room viewing)

 

[Mizzer]

I have this mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085CNGBPG/

I really like Echogear’s stuff.

 

[Perscitus]

Firmware 03.23.06 is out (dated 02-Jun-2021) with a tons of new privacy policies and other legalize to accept on reboot. And of course the change log reads:

[03.23.06] Software update contains minor bug fixes.

Yawn.

 

[Armenius]

The CX is down to $1,299 at Best Buy, $100 cheaper than the C1. Must be trying to push out the last of these models.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-48-...4k-uhd-smart-webos-tv/6416732.p?skuId=6416732

 

[vegeta535]

The CX is down to $1,299 at Best Buy, $100 cheaper than the C1. Must be trying to push out the last of these models.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-48-...4k-uhd-smart-webos-tv/6416732.p?skuId=6416732

I think they are pushing out all the CX. I saw the 65" for $1800 at BB when I swung by over the weekend.

 

[caffix]

I could do with some advice. Maybe even if there's nothing I can do?

Basically, HDMI ports 1-3 are all faulty on my screen. Only HDMI 4 works now.

I think they were fried by a faulty Digital TV box (an old Humax) that made a couple of loud popping sounds. HDMI 1+2 died immediately, HDMI 3 continued to work for a while but was glitchy and then finally failed completely last night.

HDMI 4 is straight out of the back of the screen, unlike HDMI 1-3 which are all on the side. So I assume on a slightly different circuit - hence wasn't affected?

I'm now just outside the 1 year warranty period, having purchased in June last year.

I can survive with the last working HDMI port, but obviously if this one dies, the screen is dead. It's a beautiful screen and I was hoping I would use this for many years to come.

 

[Lateralus]

I could do with some advice. Maybe even if there's nothing I can do?

Basically, HDMI ports 1-3 are all faulty on my screen. Only HDMI 4 works now.

I think they were fried by a faulty Digital TV box (an old Humax) that made a couple of loud popping sounds. HDMI 1+2 died immediately, HDMI 3 continued to work for a while but was glitchy and then finally failed completely last night.

HDMI 4 is straight out of the back of the screen, unlike HDMI 1-3 which are all on the side. So I assume on a slightly different circuit - hence wasn't affected?

I'm now just outside the 1 year warranty period, having purchased in June last year.

I can survive with the last working HDMI port, but obviously if this one dies, the screen is dead. It's a beautiful screen and I was hoping I would use this for many years to come.

If you purchased it using a credit card, you may be eligible for additional warranty protection as one of your card benefits. I know that at least a couple of mine have that as part of their perks.

 

[caffix]

If you purchased it using a credit card, you may be eligible for additional warranty protection as one of your card benefits. I know that at least a couple of mine have that as part of their perks.

Thanks. I will check this out.

I've just realised I purchased on 07/06/2020 so just inside guarantee period. I'm going to claim, as tonight HDMI4 suddenly stopped working, I'm getting a "No signal" on all inputs now. It's fried.

The TV menus all work, it's just HDMI inputs don't. Tried several cables.

 

[Tol]

Thanks. I will check this out.

I've just realised I purchased on 07/06/2020 so just inside guarantee period. I'm going to claim, as tonight HDMI4 suddenly stopped working, I'm getting a "No signal" on all inputs now. It's fried.

The TV menus all work, it's just HDMI inputs don't. Tried several cables.

My hdmi ports stopped working at some point when I was messing with eARC. They didn’t start working again until I unplugged from the wall and plugged back in. It might be worth a shot…