Armenius
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True, but the LG CX does not support DSC, as far as I'm aware. You need DSC at both ends to support the feature.
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LG 48CX
- Thread starter gan7114
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No you don't. DSC support is only needed between the GPU, OS and the adapter itself. From there on the TV is thinking it is just connected to a HDMI 2.1 device.
The Club3D adapter works as a converter in between and uses DSC because DP does not have enough bandwidth without it to match HDMI 2.1. On the 1.04 adapter firmware (available from Club3D via email) it has worked pretty well for me. VRR is basically the only thing that doesn't work and at this point it's unlikely to be added. I hold a small sliver of hope that it will become possible as that would make it equal to a HDMI 2.1 port.
But for me running without VRR has been perfectly fine. My 2080 Ti runs most games at high enough framerates.
Armenius
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Apparently it's an issue with GeForce driver 461.40 and newer.
https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforc...e-46172-game-ready-driver-feedback-thread-re/
The pixel clock needs to be 1GHz or greater for 4K 120 Hz, if my math is correct.
At the risk of going off-topic...
So the reason I asked is because, while I don't know much at all about plex, I know a thing or two about digital audio formats. If you're transcoding to a lossless format, then there is no quality loss because that's literally (not figuratively!) what lossless means - no loss in quality.
Formats like PCM and FLAC are lossless formats (heck, PCM is straight-up uncompressed), AAC is a lossy format. If one were to compare it to image formats, then PCM is BMP, FLAC is PNG, and AAC is JPEG.
There is a teeny bit of a catch though in that it's only truly lossless if you're converting to the same bitdepth, sampling rate, and channel configuration as what the source audio is in (this is usually the most problematic when transcoding from lossy audio though as most semi-modern lossy codecs actually encode at 32bit floating point, so technically any transcoding would also have to be saved as 32bit floating point which support-wise is only well supported in PCM and WavPack, and even then decode support is poorly supported in anything other than software media players - in my experience most embedded devices max out at 24bit).
Anyway, FLAC for example maxes out at 24bit 8-channel but can handle sampling rates even above 192KHz (I've personally tested 264KHz FLAC in foobar2000). PCM can basically be anything however as it being straight-up uncompressed means you can just keep adding more channels, more bits, more samples, etc...as long as the source device can decode it of course.
There's also the issue of dithering in that it's not always clear, even when converting from one lossless 24bit format to another 24bit format, if dither is being applied or not. For true mathematical lossless-ness, you'd not want dither being applied if no other modification to the waveform is occurring (e.g. gain adjustment, resampling, reducing bit depth, channel down-mixing, etc), but even then the audible difference of applying dither with such a 24bit--to->24bit conversion is quite possibly going to be way below the threshold of audibility.
So the reason I asked is because, while I don't know much at all about plex, I know a thing or two about digital audio formats. If you're transcoding to a lossless format, then there is no quality loss because that's literally (not figuratively!) what lossless means - no loss in quality.
Formats like PCM and FLAC are lossless formats (heck, PCM is straight-up uncompressed), AAC is a lossy format. If one were to compare it to image formats, then PCM is BMP, FLAC is PNG, and AAC is JPEG.
There is a teeny bit of a catch though in that it's only truly lossless if you're converting to the same bitdepth, sampling rate, and channel configuration as what the source audio is in (this is usually the most problematic when transcoding from lossy audio though as most semi-modern lossy codecs actually encode at 32bit floating point, so technically any transcoding would also have to be saved as 32bit floating point which support-wise is only well supported in PCM and WavPack, and even then decode support is poorly supported in anything other than software media players - in my experience most embedded devices max out at 24bit).
Anyway, FLAC for example maxes out at 24bit 8-channel but can handle sampling rates even above 192KHz (I've personally tested 264KHz FLAC in foobar2000). PCM can basically be anything however as it being straight-up uncompressed means you can just keep adding more channels, more bits, more samples, etc...as long as the source device can decode it of course.
There's also the issue of dithering in that it's not always clear, even when converting from one lossless 24bit format to another 24bit format, if dither is being applied or not. For true mathematical lossless-ness, you'd not want dither being applied if no other modification to the waveform is occurring (e.g. gain adjustment, resampling, reducing bit depth, channel down-mixing, etc), but even then the audible difference of applying dither with such a 24bit--to->24bit conversion is quite possibly going to be way below the threshold of audibility.
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elvn
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Just because a format is loss-less, doesn't mean transcoding to it "live" is 1:1 (where remuxing it beforehand can be).
Just to be clear, I was focusing on the fact that the LG CX can't pass through DTS audio tracks. It should pass everything else through fine. Optical audio has a bandwidth limit though so like anything else it can't pass full hdmi audio surround formats from the optical port on the back of the TV. The TV's eARC output can pass full hdmi uncompressed audio formats.
This chart shows the bandwidth limitations between Toslink/optical audio, HDMI-arc, and HDMI-eARC connection types:
My old receiver doesn't have eARC on it so I bought a ~ $150 sharc audio box that essentially "adds an eArc port" and plugs into any hdmi input on a receiver. The sharc box also has other audio breakouts - spdif/optical audio, analog 3.5mm headphone jack, L/R stereo "RCA" analog output.
I was still having enough hiccups on the WebOS plex and emby players to make me opt for blowing the $ on a nvidia shield. I'm passing the shield audio to my sound system directly (only the video from that source back to the tv). Nvidia shields can pass their audio over HDMI to a receiver, to an add-on usb audio device with breakout ports, or to bluetooth speakers or headsets, etc. avoiding passing audio through the TV at all on that hdmi source/input. You can do the same with a pc, connecting the pc sound output directly to something instead of the TV.. but HDR videos aren't quite as accurate to the source on PC even if you use mpc + madVR tonemapping to a madVR 1000nit curve.
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mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
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"Both ends" in this situation is the input of the adapter and the output of the GPU.
Was this with the internal 100mbps ethernet port, or were you using one of those USB ethernet adapters?
(of course, if the video stream in question isn't anywhere close to 100mbps, e.g. non-UHD Blu-ray rips, then the internal ethernet port only being 100mbps really shouldn't make an impact, but you didn't say anything about the bitrate of the according video streams you were using so I'm kind of just shooting in the dark here)
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l88bastard
2[H]4U
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Can I has 42" now?
Yes but you can just run 456.71 driver and it works just fine. That's what I am doing. In any case it's not an issue with DSC like I originally thought, just Nvidia drivers being shitty. I hope they fix this soon.
just throwing this out there but I believe not all GPU HDMI ports are 2.1 on some GPU brands/models that have multiple HDMI ports so make sure your not plugged into an HDMI 2.0 one. If it’s like most models that only has 1 HDMI such as the FE then it’ll definitely be HDMI 2.1.
I may be wrong, but I haven't seen a single graphics card which have both HDMI 2.1 and more than one HDMI port...
Asus Tuf/Strix 3080 / 3090 have two HDMI 2.1 which was tested by multiple sources
Apparently the 48" C1 MSRP is dropping to 1200! Wow. https://www.techradar.com/uk/news/lg-oled-tv-launch-suggests-big-price-drop-from-last-years-sets
highlander2607
Weaksauce
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If this is true there would have to be some deep discounts on the 48" CX to get rid of inventory before the C1's come out.
Monstieur
Limp Gawd
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The Strix has 2x HDMI 2.1 ports.
Some Gigabyte RTX 3090’s have HDMI 2.0 ports. Directly from the specifications on their website for one:
Output
- DisplayPort 1.4a *3
HDMI 2.1*2, HDMI 2.0*1 (The middle HDMI output supports up to HDMI 2.0
https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N3090AORUS-X-24GD/sp#sp
elvn
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Beat me to it. The aorus line has that. Unfortunately for the rare 4k surround user, you won't get all three at 120hz vrr hdrmi 2.1. However I use a hdmi 2.0b tv on each side for desktoop real-estate so those cards would work great for me in order to avoid having to use displayport adapters anymore. Though somewhat rare, dp adapters don't always handshake properly when turning on the screens. That really only comes into play if you are running more than one hdmi display. According to a reviewer on newegg, this is also true though:
"No HDR output to HDMI secondary display when you have display port display"
My side screens aren't HDR atm anyway and they won't be any time soon.
For me, a single 48" is more than large enough vs running surround gaming. You could run an ultrawide rez and sit closer potentially for racing and flight games. 4k is super demanding already singly and would benefit from quality DLSS in order to get 100fps or better at very high .. very high+ ... to ultra settings in order to get appreciable gains out of the 120hz refresh rate.
I'm still waiting on aorus stock/availability. I had one not only in cart but fully completed my order on newegg at one point with a "congratulations" and "please allow an extra 2 - 3 days due to covid-19" etc. Then later they night I got an email saying they had canceled my order to to lack of stock. So I'm not very hopeful considering botting, scalpers, and miners. Also @%@#$ that kind of virtual stock ordering system or order picking/scooping or whatever they have going on there. Also !$@#$ nvidia and resellers for direct feeding to ebay and amazon reseller scalping.... but like I said, I had an in stock item order fully completed and I still got robbed.
I still don't regret getting the LG CX though stuck at 60hz and no VRR on 1080t sc(s). I ran and run 60fps minimum on jedi fallen order and now Nioh2. They look gorgeous in HDR, espcially nioh2 with so much dark black and bright effects. The creature design is so well done. You can look at each creature in a gallery after you've encountered/defeated them. I never bothered with the gallery on nioh1 but the creature design went up a notch and they look amazing on the OLED in 4k and HDR.
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I'm playing Nioh 2 right now as well and that game benefits quite a bit from higher framerates as it's more responsive to play since it's a pretty fast paced game. I run it at 4K 120 Hz with DLSS but since for you that is not an option, you could try it with 1440p 120 hz with image sharpening to make up for the lost clarity. Another solid option is 80% resolution scale with image sharpening. That's what I used before I could hack my older driver to work with DLSS on my 2080 Ti.
DLSS in this game is a great improvement as you get actual antialiasing. The latest 1.27 patch seems to crash at 4K for some reason so I have been running it at 3440x1440 1:1 scaled instead.
elvn
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I beat "Jedi: Fallen order" on Jedi Master with the HUD removed which makes it harder technically since you can't see your force meter and health bars, and I'm doing well past several bosses in Nioh2. Both are ~60fps minimum, capped with RTSS at ~57fps. I understand how much 120hz can bring even aesthetically to gaming though and have been a proponent for a long time. I haven't noticed any bad tearing or judder, stutter when I cap games using RTSS and keep them ~ 60fps at least.
I'm not a fan of non native resolutions but running UW rez might be fun to mess with. Have you tried running 3840 x 1600 or x1590 or whatever works (I forget) ?
Incidentally, I heard 9+ days ago or the nvidia driver around then started supporting nvidia freestyle on nioh2. I don't know if freestyle works with HDR at all though or if some features of it do. I'll have to check it out eventually. I used freestyle a lot on my 31.5" 1440p VA. The game looks gorgeous already imo in HDR 4k at ~ 38" - 48" viewing distance.
I'm on 1080ti sc(s) so I am not able to get a lot of the features even a 2000 series gpu can get right now. I'll just wait it out on the aorus gpu someday/someyear. I can always play through nioh2 again with a different build later and there will be other games to play (I got curse of the Dead Gods on sale at gmg for $13.50 after my 33% bronze member discount recently). Since I'll be paying a lot of money for the gpu I'm not willing to compromise on what I want (3x hdmi to avoid dp adapters). I already bought a nvidia shield and a sharc for this tv as well, partly to make up for some of the TV's shortcomings, so I don't want to buy a 2000 series gpu and a 120hz dp adapter b/c of scalpers and miners and bad supply chain strategies to gamers, etc. and then buy a $1500 - $2000 rtx 3000 on top of it It's getting stupid at this point.
I'm not a fan of non native resolutions but running UW rez might be fun to mess with. Have you tried running 3840 x 1600 or x1590 or whatever works (I forget) ?
Incidentally, I heard 9+ days ago or the nvidia driver around then started supporting nvidia freestyle on nioh2. I don't know if freestyle works with HDR at all though or if some features of it do. I'll have to check it out eventually. I used freestyle a lot on my 31.5" 1440p VA. The game looks gorgeous already imo in HDR 4k at ~ 38" - 48" viewing distance.
I'm on 1080ti sc(s) so I am not able to get a lot of the features even a 2000 series gpu can get right now. I'll just wait it out on the aorus gpu someday/someyear. I can always play through nioh2 again with a different build later and there will be other games to play (I got curse of the Dead Gods on sale at gmg for $13.50 after my 33% bronze member discount recently). Since I'll be paying a lot of money for the gpu I'm not willing to compromise on what I want (3x hdmi to avoid dp adapters). I already bought a nvidia shield and a sharc for this tv as well, partly to make up for some of the TV's shortcomings, so I don't want to buy a 2000 series gpu and a 120hz dp adapter b/c of scalpers and miners and bad supply chain strategies to gamers, etc. and then buy a $1500 - $2000 rtx 3000 on top of it It's getting stupid at this point.
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Freestyle should work with HDR. I have tried 3840x1600, works fine but of course you need HDMI 2.1 or the Club3D adapter for 120 Hz with that as well.
elvn
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Yep I realize that and was just curious if you had tried that resolution thanks. I know I'm painted in a corner for now. That makes my canceled aorus 3090 order by newegg that much more frustrating but it is what it is. I'm definitely enjoying the game at 4k hdr with no judder or tearing at ~60fps solid for now.
Around 100 fps average (or higher) is what I consider necessary for getting appreciable gains out of 120hz refresh rate capability. Until I can unlock higher Hz and it's higher frame rate "requirement" I really don't need VRR and DLSS as much so until I can blow the roof off the Hz with the 3090 I'll do ok for now.
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I did check to see if I could try freestyle when I bought nioh2 but only realized today that freestyle was enabled for nioh2 in a more recent nvidia driver. Jedi:Fallen Order and Nioh2 are the only HDR games I've played so far so I wasn't sure about if or how Freestyle works with HDR's "absolute" values.
Literally instant buy. Hell Ill drive down to the docks to pick it up from the container ship myself and tip the crew $20 each.
ThisMonsterLives
[H]ard|Gawd
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My CX has sometimes been cutting off in the middle of games (seemingly at random). Any suggestions? Otherwise it's glorious.
Stryker7314
Gawd
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Signal dropping or tv turning off? If signal drops I suspect the cable. Checkout the following thread to see a list of proven cables:
https://forums.evga.com/3090-FTW3-Ultra-Experience-amp-Tips-for-LG-CX-OLED-users-m3093822.aspx
I have the Pearl running on my C9 at 4k 120hz 12-bit RGB and it is excellent. Also picked up the monoprice cable but have not tried it.
ThisMonsterLives
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I press the power button and it comes back on, so I think it's the TV.
Stryker7314
Gawd
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No bueno, may need to call tech support and have them fix it.
nighty2k20
n00b
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Can confirm hdmi 2.1 x2 ony my Gigabyte 3060TI Aorus Master
https://www.gigabyte.com/de/Graphics-Card/GV-N306TAORUS-M-8GD/sp#sp
https://www.gigabyte.com/de/Graphics-Card/GV-N306TAORUS-M-8GD/sp#sp
This setup on /r/battlestations caught my eye, and I may try to replicate - particularly for the tilted sides.
Center is (obviously) a LG CX 48, the sides are Lenovo Thinkvision p27h-20
Center is (obviously) a LG CX 48, the sides are Lenovo Thinkvision p27h-20
Stryker7314
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sharknice
2[H]4U
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Running the side screens at non-native resolution would definitely bother me in actual use. I care way more about actual function and performance, but if you prioritize external aesthetics over that you probably can't find a closer match.
Looks really nice.
Only thing is it looks like the CX is tilting forward. I'm not sure that tiny desk arm is a great idea. Maybe an Ergotron HX is the closest to something that would work. But I doubt you could get it as far back as this one, and monitor arms are always going to struggle at this weight.
elvn
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I use an ergotron LX HD arm on a 43" samsung U6900 and the TV is pretty much too heavy for portrait mode. However I keep the 43 inch sitting on the desk surface so I can hang it up to 1/2 way off of the desk or more if the heavy side of the screen is on the desk end. This still allows me to adjust the screens a lot more and more easily. It also allows me to move the side screens to get at things when I need to. The problem with my 43" TV's is that they are lopsided weight wise and in relation to where the vesa mount is. Otherwise they might be fine but as it is they would hang/spin on the heavy end in portrait mode without using desk support on at least one corner on the heavy side/end of the screen.
For the LG48CX I'd get one of those big floor stands with the slim spine and just butt it up against the back of the desk rather than using a monitor arm. Currently I still have mine on the tv stand as it's not very high up but I'll probably migrate to a floor stand behind the desk eventually so I can sit the screen bezel directly on top of the desk.
Regarding speaker placement ... here are some recommended speaker angles based on THX and Dolby for surround from: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013314speaker-layout/
For me, 27" screens are way too small to pair with the 48" CX at it's optimal viewing distance, no matter how nice pairing them with a 48" looks when flush size-wise. A 32" might work but would still be a little cramped. I prefer to run native rez and scaling but currently I have windows scaling at 125% for my side 43" 4k screens (at native resolution) due to my viewing distance. I'm using 100% 1:1 on the 48CX though I only use the 48 for media and games.
For the LG48CX I'd get one of those big floor stands with the slim spine and just butt it up against the back of the desk rather than using a monitor arm. Currently I still have mine on the tv stand as it's not very high up but I'll probably migrate to a floor stand behind the desk eventually so I can sit the screen bezel directly on top of the desk.
Regarding speaker placement ... here are some recommended speaker angles based on THX and Dolby for surround from: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013314speaker-layout/
For me, 27" screens are way too small to pair with the 48" CX at it's optimal viewing distance, no matter how nice pairing them with a 48" looks when flush size-wise. A 32" might work but would still be a little cramped. I prefer to run native rez and scaling but currently I have windows scaling at 125% for my side 43" 4k screens (at native resolution) due to my viewing distance. I'm using 100% 1:1 on the 48CX though I only use the 48 for media and games.
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MelonSplitter
[H]ard|Gawd
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Just commenting that I've had the CX48 since launch. It was and still is the best monitor I have ever had the pleasure of using for work and gaming hands down. Paired with my 3080 I smile every time I sit down and power it up.
Yeah, it's important to have a retrospective view on things. I bought shortly after launch, and this monitor stands the test of time - it's improved via firmware updates, is a much better PC experience when you disable ASBL (
) and when paired with a 30xx series or latest AMD, it's spellbinding.
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elvn
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I guess the only way to keep the Left and Right front surround speakers at the right distance when using monitors matched to the bezels on each side of a 48 CX is placing them either:
..behind the bezel junctions.
This would cover the speakers with monitors but using a receiver's speaker volume level customization feature helps adjust for this. That's what I'm doing right now with the L/R fronts set in the gap behind my screens but I have my horizontal center channel under the desk surface so that one gets a clear shot under my desks. Between my monitor backs and wall is a little boomy so I plan to someday add soundproofing tiles to the wall behind the desk and screens but it still sounds good as it is now even if a little "theater mode" due to the layout.
..mounted on the wall or at the ceiling above the bezel junctions/sides.
This could cause some directional issues. My rear L/R channel in my 7.1 setup currently are high up on the back wall almost to the ceiling, angled down. Seems to work pretty well considering. I could switch to short speaker stands eventually which would probably work better directional sound wise.
..mounted under the desk surface (if there is room vs drawers/cabinetry etc) or using short speaker stands or half size L/R tower speakers or just fair sized bookshelf speakers on the floor
in order to stay beneath the bottom of the screen. I do have some short speaker stands I can use for this so I might switch over eventually. My side L/R 7.1 speakers are on stands around the height of my chair seat as it is now.
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I think if I ever start over again I'd probably buy a floor stand for each of my three screens and place the Front L/R and Center speakers beneath them. L/R speakers large enough for the floor and maybe use a stand for the 48CX in the middle with tray shelf for the center channel speaker if possible. Meaning I wouldn't have a long desk that the screens are mounted on now, only my separate x-box controller shaped island desk on caster wheels holding my peripherals and maybe a short ottoman sized hutch/table on the side on wheels and/or a work bench on the side wall to hold misc. stuff and work on pc(s).
I'm using 65w klipsch promedia desktop speakers (7) + a cheap but large wooden housing sub on a 7.2 AVR.. They aren't big bookshelf surrounds or front towers or anything. As it is now it still sounds great all things considered. The L/R fronts are as I said behind the bezel junctions so are in the gap between my wall and the back of the screens for now, unlike that photo. I adjusted for the screens being in front as best I could using my AVR's speaker level configuration menu and test tones.
..behind the bezel junctions.
This would cover the speakers with monitors but using a receiver's speaker volume level customization feature helps adjust for this. That's what I'm doing right now with the L/R fronts set in the gap behind my screens but I have my horizontal center channel under the desk surface so that one gets a clear shot under my desks. Between my monitor backs and wall is a little boomy so I plan to someday add soundproofing tiles to the wall behind the desk and screens but it still sounds good as it is now even if a little "theater mode" due to the layout.
..mounted on the wall or at the ceiling above the bezel junctions/sides.
This could cause some directional issues. My rear L/R channel in my 7.1 setup currently are high up on the back wall almost to the ceiling, angled down. Seems to work pretty well considering. I could switch to short speaker stands eventually which would probably work better directional sound wise.
..mounted under the desk surface (if there is room vs drawers/cabinetry etc) or using short speaker stands or half size L/R tower speakers or just fair sized bookshelf speakers on the floor
in order to stay beneath the bottom of the screen. I do have some short speaker stands I can use for this so I might switch over eventually. My side L/R 7.1 speakers are on stands around the height of my chair seat as it is now.
------------------------
I think if I ever start over again I'd probably buy a floor stand for each of my three screens and place the Front L/R and Center speakers beneath them. L/R speakers large enough for the floor and maybe use a stand for the 48CX in the middle with tray shelf for the center channel speaker if possible. Meaning I wouldn't have a long desk that the screens are mounted on now, only my separate x-box controller shaped island desk on caster wheels holding my peripherals and maybe a short ottoman sized hutch/table on the side on wheels and/or a work bench on the side wall to hold misc. stuff and work on pc(s).
I'm using 65w klipsch promedia desktop speakers (7) + a cheap but large wooden housing sub on a 7.2 AVR.. They aren't big bookshelf surrounds or front towers or anything. As it is now it still sounds great all things considered. The L/R fronts are as I said behind the bezel junctions so are in the gap between my wall and the back of the screens for now, unlike that photo. I adjusted for the screens being in front as best I could using my AVR's speaker level configuration menu and test tones.
GoldenTiger
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Only if I get it too!
Typically speakers should be spread in something like a 30 degree angle to the listener and set somewhere around ear level. Putting them above the display and tilting them towards the listener would be my choice. I don't know how well that works in practice but it probably does as it's a relatively common thing in recording studios.
I can currently just barely fit my big ass Genelec M040 studio monitors on my desk with the CX 48" on a floorstand right past the desk. When I move I plan to get some stands for the speakers for better placement. I tried putting my old 27" 1440p display in portrait next to the CX 48" and just could not fit it without buying a monitor arm to mount it. Would have run into the overly wide stereo image issues too as I already started to have those with the Samsung CRG9.
In other news, yesterday the TV popped up a "Pixel refresher will now run" dialog on screen when I was about to turn it off. Today when I started it it said "Pixel refresh complete". I am guessing I have used this enough to trigger some longer refresh cycle. My model does not show how many hours I have used this unfortunately.
Yeah! I actually am thinking about returning the 4k 28" I bought for work. I find the OLED display far less taxing on my eyes for some reason compared to the IPS. Not sure why. It's just so easy to look at all day with minimal eye strain.
elvn
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..
That would work pretty well I think. The recommended angles vary. THX in the quotes below is 44 - 60 deg but Dolby Atmos in the picture below these quotes is 22 - 40 degrees with 30deg show as default.
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