Best Buy has the 48" model for $1450.At the moment the "black friday" price for these tends to be about $1500...right? Or is there somewhere better?
The 55" model is at $1350 (yes... the bigger one is cheaper.)
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Best Buy has the 48" model for $1450.At the moment the "black friday" price for these tends to be about $1500...right? Or is there somewhere better?
I thought 144hz was the "sweet spot" for refresh rate with high image quality?
Command Execution Time = Current Server Time – (Packet Latency + Client View Interpolation)
Put into English this means that once you pull the trigger and this information package gets sent to the server, it then goes back from the current server time (the time the pulling the trigger package was received) by your ping plus your interpolation time. Only then it is determined if the client hit the shot or not.
The 48" model is a perfect cross-over model between a large monitor and a small(ish) TV. It appeals to 2 markets at once. What's more is that it is not only an awesome Smart TV, but it is also a top-tier gaming monitor as well. I can't think of another product outside of LG's OLED TV's that is a near perfect in both categories.I'm sorry that people looking for a discount on the 48-inch model are disappointed.
But I'm also incredibly pleased. This is a strong message to manufacturers that gamers want great quality OLED panels for desktop usage. In the long term it will benefit all of us, more 40-inch or similar high quality variants will be available, and hopefully at better prices too.
Regarding FPS, I thought the strength of such a frequency transcended being able to capitalize on running at an equivalent frequency (ie 144FPS or near to it most of the time), thanks to the use of FreeSync / VRR tech? Or is that not typically the case? After all, with the exception of some very old / not very demanding titles, its going to be hard for anything but the highest GPU tiers at any given time these days (plus of course the TITAN ultra high end, like the 3090 or possibly the upcoming 6900XT etc) to routinely come close to 144 or 120 FPS for that matter.
It's probably a HDMI 1.4 laptop. Not all Intel graphics laptops are HDMI 2.0. The only option left is to use the CAC-1085 DisplayPort to HDMI 2.1 adapter. I was able to get 4K 60 Hz out of an Intel graphics laptop with this.I've tried two different laptops both at HDMI (8k cable that can do 4k @120hz, and the 4k @60hz) STILL stuck at 30hz. I tried doing intel custom scale and just trying to increase the refresh rate and no matter what it's stuck at 30hz.
Anyone get this issue with a laptop connect directly or even using a new HP usb-c G5 docking station? I've also tried a displayport adapter to hdmi that supposedly can do 4k@60hz but still can only do 30hz.
I finally figured it out after some more googling, since the G5 docking station is supposedly capable of 4k 60hz. I had to go to bios and Enable High Resolution mode when connected to a USB-C DP alt mode dock.It's probably a HDMI 1.4 laptop. Not all Intel graphics laptops are HDMI 2.0. The only option left is to use the CAC-1085 DisplayPort to HDMI 2.1 adapter. I was able to get 4K 60 Hz out of an Intel graphics laptop with this.
This might be just an issue of trying to use VRR on an app that is not meant to use it. On my Samsung CRG9 I could get flicker on some apps because G-Sync triggered on say Spotify. Adding that app to Nvidia Control Panel and setting it to Fixed refresh corrects the issue so try the same with Kodi.Finally got a 3080 and updated the FW if the LG to .11.30 via USB - VRR works fine across the whole range.
However - yesterday it was the first time I actually noticed the VRR 120Hz flickering issue. It was more than just annoying scrolling through menus in Kodi, running Kodi in Borderless Windowed mode and enabling G-Sync only for exclusive fullscreen fixed that. Also Kodi was crashing with refresh rate change and VRR enabled.
I always thought that thid VRR gamma flickering everyone was talking about was something subtle (did see some subtle flickering in some titles and though that was it, but nope, I think that was an issue with the game engine rather than the CX) - but this actually is very prominent and extremely annoying in the wrong circumstances, definitely not subtle at all.
I'd add that the CX 48 allows for quite a lot of options for increasing performance or changing the gaming experience to your preference:4k resolution is very demanding. However some modern demanding games can still get over 70fps and some even hit 100fps-Hz average. If you are willing to dial a few over the top graphics settings in (down) , to get your fpsHz and resulting motion clarity and motion definition UP , you can probably still hit 100fps-Hz average on a lot of game with a top tier gpu like a 3090. Another option is to run an uw resolution for gaming on the LG CX which could save (add) 10fps perhaps. DLSS 2.0 support games should get a good frame rate even with DLSS quality setting but if people choose to run RTX/raytracing it'll crush the frame rate again.
Yeah, VRR use was unintentional in my case. But it made the flicker extremely visible and I truly understand now why that can be a real issue in some games.This might be just an issue of trying to use VRR on an app that is not meant to use it. On my Samsung CRG9 I could get flicker on some apps because G-Sync triggered on say Spotify. Adding that app to Nvidia Control Panel and setting it to Fixed refresh corrects the issue so try the same with Kodi.
That sounds like an issue with either the app or Nvidia drivers. I'd report it to both vendors and see if it gets fixed. But I would still not hold this as some example of the TV issue itself because it's basically G-Sync going haywire on an app where it should not be used in the first place. On my CRG9 I could see Spotify for example making the monitor start flipping rapidly between 48 and 120 Hz when it was open. Which is not what would happen normally in an actual game.Yeah, VRR use was unintentional in my case. But it made the flicker extremely visible and I truly understand now why that can be a real issue in some games.
The only thing that works is setting Kodi in windowed fullscreen mode and enabling gsync only for exclusive fullscreen.
I tried disabling gsync in nvcp, but that leads to Kodi crashing when it does it's refreshrate changing. Refrehrate change works in windowed fullscreen with the mentioned workaround above though.
You can add Kodi.exe to the WIndows Media Player or Internet Explorer nvidia profile, those have g-sync permanently disabled. That's what I do for apps that I don't want VRR on.
Also I don't think anyone wants the g-sync in windowed mode option enabled right now. It appears that nvidia and/or microsoft have broken it again. It stutters and the TV overlay shows it's basically doing something like 60/120hz rapid cycling, so I guess it's not bypassing DWM properly anymore (it used to, some months ago). As you can see in that thread, it's not some hardware issue. He was able to reproduce it with different GPUs and different screens including some with a g-sync module (just like I'm reproducing it on this TV now that the VRR stutter has been fixed).
It should work for DX12 and Vulkan titles fine though, since those have usually no issue bypassing DWM. But in my experience the fullscreen g-sync option works with those if you use borderless mode anyway (for example on WoW).
Hopefully by then we have 4k 240z oled displays.
I can't do 120hz 10 bit rbg full 444 without massive screen flicker no matter what I do. This is with my 3080 and CX updated. I have to run it at 60hz 8 bit full rgb. I cannot figure it out smh.Using 48cx and nvidia 3080 for weeks I noticed that at random times about once per day screen just froze for a second and pc make a sound like you connect something and got notification that gsync monitor was connected. So far it only happened for me on desktop while browsing firefox. Not a single time during game. Could it be a driver related issue or TDR issue or most like hdmi cable issue? (4k 120hz 10bit rgb full)
1. Make sure the HDMI input is labeled PC in the home menuI can't do 120hz 10 bit rbg full 444 without massive screen flicker no matter what I do. This is with my 3080 and CX updated. I have to run it at 60hz 8 bit full rgb. I cannot figure it out smh.
I think in your case its caused by hdmi cable, which was demonstrated by HDTV test in past. But in my case its like 1 link drop in 5 hours of usage which is weird. I am going to try to swap from RGB full to ycbcr 4:4:4 if something change, and then I will swap to different cable which should pass denon 40gbit cable test.I can't do 120hz 10 bit rbg full 444 without massive screen flicker no matter what I do. This is with my 3080 and CX updated. I have to run it at 60hz 8 bit full rgb. I cannot figure it out smh.
I'd like to get Zeskit 3m cable in EU but it looks its not available anywhere.1. Make sure the HDMI input is labeled PC in the home menu
2. Buy a Zeskit 2m HDMI cable on Amazon.
I checked tons of topics about RGB vs YCbCr 444 for PC usage and most of them sugest there should be identical. Some of them sugested its better to use YCbCr 444 because TV will stil do internal conversion from RGB to YCbCr. I am sad there realy is not any technical review with some precise measurements which will provide if there is any difference.I got a 55" Vizio OLED for my bedroom with the Best Buy $900 deal yesterday. If anyone was still considering getting this to use as a PC gaming moniitor....DO NOT DO IT!!!
1. Running a RGB signal to it disables a ton of options and has constant judder. I watched John Wick 3 from my HTPC and was frustrated with the judder the entire movie until I figured out switching the output to YCbCr 444 fixes it. Same issue from an Xbox One X. RGB also seems to disable a ton of settings options, but I'm finding these disabled some other times too and haven't nailed down quite what's causing it.
2. I didn't test it, but according to reviews VRR is totally busted.
3. Far fewer calibration options, far more confusing menu.
4. But one plus, it has a DTS license. I don't have equipment to test eARC though.
None of this should matter for a bedroom TV so I'm still happy enough, but I would have been extremely pissed if I intended to use it as a gaming monitor, or even playing console games on it.
- No scaling so you can play at 1080p or 1440p in a smaller section of the screen without scaling issues. I haven't tried 1080p like this but 1440p without scaling is about the same size as a 31.5" 1440p display would be. Might want a display mount that lets you bring the screen closer to you in this situation.
For me it works fine as long as I set either integer scaling or no scaling as the option and set scaling to be done on GPU.This specifically i have not been able to get working on the CX48. Do you know some secret magic trick ? These resolutions always scale to fullscreen, even though i set all settings in NVCP as they should be. Scaling off and perform scaling on GPU and so forth.
What if you "cheat the system" by making a custom resolution that is 3840px wide, such as 3840x1440 or 3840x1080?IThese resolutions always scale to fullscreen, even though i set all settings in NVCP as they should be. Scaling off and perform scaling on GPU and so forth.
You can do either. GPU has to do the scaling. I don't think the display itself has any option to not scale fullscreen. So if you want 1440p 120 Hz with no scaling you are going to need a HDMI 2.1 GPU or the Club3D adapter and a GPU that supports DSC.What if you "cheat the system" by making a custom resolution that is 3840px wide, such as 3840x1440 or 3840x1080?
Heck IIRC, the latter resolution is even supported natively by the TV itself when GPU scaling is disabled, though I believe it will be stretched vertically (though maybe you can change the TV's scaling mode to fix that?).
...speaking of which, I don't suppose the CX itself has different aspect/scaling modes to allow the likes of 1440p and 1080p to be displayed as-is with 1:1 pixel mapping with no upscaling?
For those that own and are using as a PC monitor, any suggested desk mounts?
99% of the talk about the module never pointed out this particular issue, and until old even there it was muted with the already lifted blacks of lcdsYeah the Gsync module was absolutely worth it. It was pretty irritating to see people hate on it saying it was no better than freesync but being charged a premium regardless. The experience of having a gsync module vs no gsync module is more than worth the price increase that comes with it as the experience is just flat out better.
Absolutely none. Wall mount or floor stand is much better choice as you can then vary your viewing distance by moving your desk back rather than requiring a very deep desk.For those that own and are using as a PC monitor, any suggested desk mounts?