If it had FALD, it would be a VA panel which would make it not an end game monitor.I would consider the LG an end game monitor if it had FALD, and atleast HDR1000 but kept all its current response and speed!
That would make it near impossible to beat!
Near black uniformity is still an issue on OLED as well, though they've improved a lot from the C6 I have I've still seen many pictures of uniformity issues on the newer panels. So yeah, no perfect panel exists, but as with the vignetting here I find it is a very minor fault.Well. OLED is a mess on an all white screen due to banding.
There are more IPS FALD computer monitors than VA:If it had FALD, it would be a VA panel which would make it not an end game monitor.
Absolutely not. I see the lack of the buggy FALD in this display as an advantage.I must be the only person that hates the very idea of FALD... I'd rather have lower global contrast than halos everywhere, at least until FALD 'zones' are equal to at least 1/4 panel resolution.
I stand corrected. However, it's not a feature I care enough about to pay for.There are more IPS FALD computer monitors than VA:
All G-Sync "Ultimate" displays are FALD. Not to mention FALD "helps" IPS more than it does VA.
It's worth it.Well, I just tried the BestBuy site and, sure enough, they will honor the price match with the LG site sale of $200 off despite it not being "in stock" at the dealers with the low price. I was mostly checking for the price match and was helpless to the power of (perceived) savings and ordered one for delivery Wed. the 18th. Now I will need to sell my Dell Alienware 34" but will likely keep my MSI 32" (not to mention a few other older monitors scattered around). Way too much money spent but I am weak and the weakness is very strong.
Higher res does not really matter, I came from 4K @ 43" to this LG 38", and the higher ppi on the LG can put the 4K 43" to shame. The LG feels like a 5K monitor compared to the lower ppi 4K 43" I came from.Not even close. For pure gaming the 48CX will probably destroy this thing. Black blacks, no vignetting bullshit, higher resolution. I really see no downsides for gaming.
Thunderbolt would be useful for me too, being able to easily hook up my work Macbook Pro without adapters and also charge it.I'm in the camp that I want one of these but probably want to wait for the hdr600 version. I'm not positive I want to stick to that since the price drop makes it more interesting.
- Not a fan of "the fan". Fans can die. They do make some noise. And it adds bulk to the panel.
- Thunderbolt is useful to me as one device that will come on and off the monitor would be a surface book 2 which handily runs with no other connection than TB3 off my Dell 3818
- and TB is only coming in the panel that comes later
- While I won't hold my breath, it might have been useful if at least LG has managed to put HDMI 2.1 in this - something they could do if they weren't using the Nvidia control board
- HDR 600 vs HDR 400 is pretty much the difference between "ok" and "barely worthy". Neither is going to move you like OLED, but 600 is definitely better and at this price point I feel like 600 makes the price a bit more palatable
- As with the fan comment above, if you look at the 38WN95 page here you'll see that the top down view shows a MUCH slimmer profile with no Nvidia gsync control module https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-38wn95c-w-ultrawide-monitor#
All that said, I have been tempted. But TB3 is something I use very regularly on the 38 I have now. That 38 just got taken over by the family who also like it (doh!) So I need another and this new model is much better.
I think the upcoming panel will be better for me, but yes, I will get one of these versions.
Yeah I hit that one pretty much every day. Took me ages (well 20 minutes) to work that out on the docking stations the first time round. If it wasn't both thunderbolt 3 and active, then the speed downgrade dropped it below what the resolution the monitor needed. Cue "thunderbolt 3" labels all round the office. I also believe you still can't get more than 2m with them.Thundertbolt is actually a terrible cable for high bandwidth uses due to severe cable length restrictions. Only way to get past that is with expensive fiber optic cables.
That sounds right to me. I no longer get the static/EMI dropouts since I got the fibre optics cable. I've asked other people if they get this and it sounds like humidity may be a factor as well.Ya DP 2.0 is going to be sweet but any real usage I think will require a optic cable.
B&H have had them in stock several times, they just sold out fast. I originally had it preordered, then cancelled my preorder because I wasn't sure I wanted to spend the $1970 estimate on the preorder. Then later decided to buy it when B&H had them in stock end of December for $1800, was free 1 day shipping to northern Virginia area too. Many folks on the Ulrawidemasterrace reddit got theirs from B&H as well.I don't think B&H ever got any stock in. Their page has literally said "coming soon" since August. You may be waiting a while...
This should be fixed in future games that use DLSS 2.0. Currently the only game using it is Wolfenstein Youngblood but it should work with arbitrary resolutions (rather than a fixed set like in previous DLSS iterations) and give results that look as good as the native resolution.It's a shame DLSS isn't supported in anything so you can't really use ray tracing without a huge performance hit on this monitor.
Anyway as far as this 38 (and future) is concerned I have a curiosity question. The HDR600 panel model is going to get USB C (with the limits of length associated with the underlying DP 1.4 channel) as well as local dimming by way of edge driven sections (the weakest of the local methods but also perhaps the least susceptible to halos and other FALD driving issues). Do people think it's better to go with Gsync+HDR400 and take the more limited connections and that "fan" or do you think the HDR600, no fan, more connections is the better choice? I know opinions will vary but I'm curious anyway.
For me at least the extra connections for easily hooking up my work Macbook Pro and running PbP mode for my working from home rig would be nice. HDR600 with reasonable amount of local dimming zones (most likely has just 8-10 vertical columns, 16 zone grid would be nice) would take the HDR support from rubbish to usable. No, it would not be OLED level or anything but at least something you can use on a game by game basis if you want.Anyway as far as this 38 (and future) is concerned I have a curiosity question. The HDR600 panel model is going to get USB C (with the limits of length associated with the underlying DP 1.4 channel) as well as local dimming by way of edge driven sections (the weakest of the local methods but also perhaps the least susceptible to halos and other FALD driving issues). Do people think it's better to go with Gsync+HDR400 and take the more limited connections and that "fan" or do you think the HDR600, no fan, more connections is the better choice? I know opinions will vary but I'm curious anyway.