LG 27MB85R-B new WQHD AH-IPS ?

[Sedition]

Hi Nikyo, thank you for all the info you've provided so far! I'm trying to decide between this and the AOC Q2770PQU to replace my matte finish TN and have a couple questions:

How is the anti glare coating; is there a sparkle/dirty look against white backgrounds as with the matte TN's? It's absolutely driving me crazy on my Asus VW246H.

Have you noticed any additional flicker? I am a bit sensitive to this and if this isn't really flicker free I might be swayed into the slower AOC which would be a bummer for gaming.

 

[Nikyo]

Hi Nikyo, thank you for all the info you've provided so far! I'm trying to decide between this and the AOC Q2770PQU to replace my matte finish TN and have a couple questions:

How is the anti glare coating; is there a sparkle/dirty look against white backgrounds as with the matte TN's? It's absolutely driving me crazy on my Asus VW246H.

Have you noticed any additional flicker? I am a bit sensitive to this and if this isn't really flicker free I might be swayed into the slower AOC which would be a bummer for gaming.

It uses a semi-glossy (light-matte) coating that's free of any grain/sparklies. The coating LG uses could be considered ever so slightly glossier than the coating Samsung implements on their PLS (what the AOC uses) panels.

The LG is PWM-free, so don't be alarmed. The flicker I experienced was a clock & phase/sharpness issue and is in no way related to PWM. It's also not an issue that'll impact daily use. You can read more about it at the bottom of this page.

 

[Sedition]

It uses a semi-glossy (light-matte) coating that's free of any grain/sparklies. The coating LG uses could be considered ever so slightly glossier than the coating Samsung implements on their PLS (what the AOC uses) panels.

The LG is PWM-free, so don't be alarmed. The flicker I experienced was a clock & phase/sharpness issue and is in no way related to PWM. It's also not an issue that'll impact daily use. You can read more about it at the bottom of this page.

Awesome thanks for the info, going to pull the trigger on the LG

 

[Nikyo]

Awesome thanks for the info, going to pull the trigger on the LG

Cool, hope you like it!

Please post your impressions when you get it, we could really use some more user reviews. Also, make sure to check the manufacturer date on the back and tell us when it was made.

 

[Kasai]

So, I've been looking at getting a new monitor these past few weeks and I've pretty much decided on purchasing the 27MB85R. My question is, you guys think it's worth the extra 280 for the wide gamut version (27MB85Z)? I'd primarily be using the monitor for gaming/cad/general application work; would the FRC really make much of a difference in those cases?

 

[Nikyo]

So, I've been looking at getting a new monitor these past few weeks and I've pretty much decided on purchasing the 27MB85R. My question is, you guys think it's worth the extra 280 for the wide gamut version (27MB85Z)? I'd primarily be using the monitor for gaming/cad/general application work; would the FRC really make much of a difference in those cases?

The wide gamut version is only going to be useful if the applications you run utilize the Adobe RGB gamut; that's up to you, really.

Otherwise 8bit+FRC isn't going to actually benefit you at all.

 

[Michaelius]

Anyone managed to run input lag test on European or NA version ?

 

[Richard Jones]

Anyone managed to run input lag test on European or NA version ?

Why would there be any difference ?
They don't do region-specific modifications on monitors, only PSU and OSD language when needed.
Plus I suspect there's only one packaging for every region, since it's not a consumer-level model.

 

[NCX]

So, I've been looking at getting a new monitor these past few weeks and I've pretty much decided on purchasing the 27MB85R. My question is, you guys think it's worth the extra 280 for the wide gamut version (27MB85Z)? I'd primarily be using the monitor for gaming/cad/general application work; would the FRC really make much of a difference in those cases?

The Z version does not have an sRGB mode=over-saturated and inaccurate colours in games and programs which do not support colour management. It's not worth it.

 

[Kasai]

@ Nikyo & NCX
Thanks for the input! I just placed my order for the 27MB85R from B&H.

I'll be sure to post the production date and my impressions even though they might be a bit limited since this is my first premium monitor. I've only ever used TN panel LCD, LED and my favorite monitor, to this day, is still an NEC Multisync 90gx2 haha.

Also for anyone interested, there was a recent (today) price drop.
Newegg: 499.99
B&H: 501.33

Another quick question, for the 27MB85R, Display Port or DVI-D?

 

[Nikyo]

Also for anyone interested, there was a recent (today) price drop.
Newegg: 499.99
B&H: 501.33

Oh dear, it may be time to buy a second one.

Another quick question, for the 27MB85R, Display Port or DVI-D?

DVI-D assuming you're using an Nvidia GPU; displayport is bugged on Nvidia GPUs and drops the contrast significantly, which sucks because you can only use PiP with displayport + hdmi or DVI.

Nvidia please fix.

 

[Kasai]

Affirmative on the Nvidia, guess I'll stick with DVI-D then. Thanks for the heads up.

Edit: I have literally no idea how the quote thing works

 

[Nicholars]

@ Nikyo & NCX
Thanks for the input! I just placed my order for the 27MB85R from B&H.

I'll be sure to post the production date and my impressions even though they might be a bit limited since this is my first premium monitor. I've only ever used TN panel LCD, LED and my favorite monitor, to this day, is still an NEC Multisync 90gx2 haha.

Also for anyone interested, there was a recent (today) price drop.
Newegg: 499.99
B&H: 501.33

Another quick question, for the 27MB85R, Display Port or DVI-D?

Argh I contacted LG and they said they have "no plans to release this model in UK"

 

[Richard Jones]

Why would it matter ? Do you expect a 'UK version' ?
It doesn't make sense, will never happen, and you can get it from several stores in the UK anyway.
Just a simple question but; have you ever bought anything online ? Over 90% of the stuff available online isn't country-specific, in most cases it just requires or comes along with a plug adapter or cable swap, you just don't always see it when they sell it to you.
I've worked years for a UK electronics online retailer so I kind of know what I'm talking about.
If it's warranty you're worried about, most manufacturer's suck balls and take months for a simple repair or replacement anyway.
You just pick a store with hassle-free returns/replacement/refund policy, pay with PayPal to be safe, and that's it.

 

[Nikyo]

Just go ahead and ignore this post.

 

[WeelyTM]

Sounds awesome, I'm in for one. Needed to ditch my Asus VG248QE anyway, damn thing makes me sick like no display has ever done. B&H is out of stock though on this monitor Fingers crossed that newegg comes through for me. Thx Nikyo and NCX for the push, I was leaning toward the BENQ 2420G, for eye-friendliness + gsync... but I think I'll try fix my eyes with a pretty picture this time

 

[Anti-Hero]

Nikyo, given it's the holidays might we see some pics showcasing the IPS glow?

 

[Nikyo]

Nikyo, given it's the holidays might we see some pics showcasing the IPS glow?

Tried to take all the pictures on my phone using the same settings as when I took the Eizo's glow picture

LG 27MB85R-B

I wanted to take the picture with better lighting, but then there would be nothing to show.

 

[beyondcrazy]

They have an excellent no-hassle return/exchange policy and excellent customer service; highly recommended.



It'll display full resolution via DVI-D, not HDMI.

Edit: Meant to say Dual link DVI-D.

Hey all,

Looks like this monitor will support full resolution over HDMI with the right video card. Santa brought me one of these fantastic LG displays for Christmas, and so far it seems perfect -- no bleeding, no dead pixels, no scratches.

I had thought I would need a mini-dp cable to connect, but the only cable I could find (thunderbolt), didn't work -- not sure why. I thought they were backwards compatible. Probably a standard mini-dp cable would be fine. Anyway, for fun I tried my good ol hdmi cable and it connected right up -- 2560 x 1440, running off an xfx r9-270x. The only issue I'm experiencing is that I can't hear sound over the hdmi. But I have a dedicated sound board, so don't really care too much about that feature.

DVI-D (single) definitely did not work for me -- was stuck at 1080p (dvi to hdmi)

This is for US model, July 2014 date, from Newegg.

Jon

 

[Nikyo]

Hey all,

Looks like this monitor will support full resolution over HDMI with the right video card. Santa brought me one of these fantastic LG displays for Christmas, and so far it seems perfect -- no bleeding, no dead pixels, no scratches.

I had thought I would need a mini-dp cable to connect, but the only cable I could find (thunderbolt), didn't work -- not sure why. I thought they were backwards compatible. Probably a standard mini-dp cable would be fine. Anyway, for fun I tried my good ol hdmi cable and it connected right up -- 2560 x 1440, running off an xfx r9-270x. The only issue I'm experiencing is that I can't hear sound over the hdmi. But I have a dedicated sound board, so don't really care too much about that feature.

DVI-D (single) definitely did not work for me -- was stuck at 1080p (dvi to hdmi)

This is for US model, July 2014 date, from Newegg.

Jon

Interesting, also it appears you're the first to receive a monitor to not be manufactured in September.

Could you post some of your subjective thoughts on gaming? Also, what monitor are you coming up from?

If you're capable and willing it be awesome if you could check for the following.

1.) Check for PWM at a brightness lower than 20% using http://www.testufo.com/#test=blurtrail (directions at the top; I don't expect it to have PWM, but it can't hurt to check.)

2.) http://www.gdargaud.net/Hack/DeadPixel/GreenMagenta.html Does this page show flickering at the bottom portion of the screen? (Not related to PWM)

3.) If it's possible, could you post a head-on shot of the screen glow like in my picture above?

Thanks in advance, and I hope you're enjoying it.

 

[Nicholars]

Why would it matter ? Do you expect a 'UK version' ?
It doesn't make sense, will never happen, and you can get it from several stores in the UK anyway.
Just a simple question but; have you ever bought anything online ? Over 90% of the stuff available online isn't country-specific, in most cases it just requires or comes along with a plug adapter or cable swap, you just don't always see it when they sell it to you.
I've worked years for a UK electronics online retailer so I kind of know what I'm talking about.
If it's warranty you're worried about, most manufacturer's suck balls and take months for a simple repair or replacement anyway.
You just pick a store with hassle-free returns/replacement/refund policy, pay with PayPal to be safe, and that's it.

Well yes everything you just wrote is very obvious but my point being that when purchasing an item the main thing is how much that item costs, and as it is not a UK model it can only be purchased for £600+ from within the UK, whereas if there was a "UK" model or if it was released in the UK it would be affordable without having to import it eg. in the US you can buy the LG screen for the equivalent of £350 whereas in the UK it would cost over £600 due to it not being released in the UK.

 

[Richard Jones]

You have international vs. local trade, pricing and taxes really wrong...
I think if you believe such things it's not really useful to try and explain it to you, whatever, what you wish for most likely will never happen, and even if it happens one day, you will scratch your head wondering why the hell the 'UK model' is so much more expensive.

 

[Nicholars]

You have international vs. local trade, pricing and taxes really wrong...
I think if you believe such things it's not really useful to try and explain it to you, whatever, what you wish for most likely will never happen, and even if it happens one day, you will scratch your head wondering why the hell the 'UK model' is so much more expensive.

No I don't, stop patronizing me lol The LG is not released in the UK so it is much more expensive to buy it in this country, not difficult is it lol.

 

[NCX]

The LG is vastly overpriced here too since it costs around 850$ after tax (the same price as 2x Korean monitors including duty) where I live (Canada) and is only sold by retailers with poor return and exchange policies while the Asus PB278Q and BenQ BL2710PT sell for around 500$. If I wanted and could afford one, I could order one from the US, but I don't think the LG is worth the premium (650$ CAD after currency conversion+duty fees) and time and effort required to return it.

 

[Richard Jones]

No I don't, stop patronizing me lol The LG is not released in the UK so it is much more expensive to buy it in this country, not difficult is it lol.

Not patronizing, you're just plain wrong, but I shouldn't care that's for sure.

@NCX; importing products bought in USD to the UK can have huge benefits under certain rules (skipping VAT for instance), you can often beat local RRP, which local purchasers->retailers buying stock locally are tied to by law as long as the manufacturer demands. And we can bet if that monitor was released officially in the UK (likely won't happen) the RRP wouldn't be close to £350 but rather £499 (£449 with luck).

Anyway let's forget about the pricing thing...

 

[Nicholars]

It is $500 on B&H photo in the US, which is about £384 in UK money (including 20% tax added)... In the UK on Amazon it is £600+, I do understand import vat, taxes etc etc. Usually it does not end up any better buying from US to UK, once the VAT, duty, shipping, warranty etc. are factored in, anyway I ordered a different screen so hopefully that will be good enough for me.

 

[Nicholars]

Deleted

 

[Kasai]

Monitor got here today! ... It looks amazing as expected.

No dead pixels, might have one stuck pixel (or dust the size of one pixel) in very upper right corner but I might also just have bad eyes.

Manufacture date is June 2014

1. No pwm that I can tell using the site Nikyo posted but if I take a photo of the line the monitor does show more than one "band" but I assume that is just ghosting (shows up at 100% and 0% brightness)

2. Using the other site that Nikyo posted, the bottom half of the monitor does flicker once below 90% brightness.

One strange observation to note. If you display http://www.gdargaud.net/Hack/DeadPixel/GreenMagenta.html and observe the flicker then toggle the uniformity option on and off once or twice it totally disappears but ONLY when you are still in the OSD. Once you close the OSD the flickering starts again regardless of whether you have the uniformity option enabled or not... Interesting

3. I will post a head-on shot within the hour, waiting for my NEX-5R to charge.

My settings will be:
1/80 Shutter Speed
F5.0
800 ISO

Other Observations:
There is some backlight bleed in the lower left and upper left corners but only noticeable when viewing a totally black screen... could also be IPS glow, I really don't have experience differentiating the two.

I'll post some photos soon

Edit: What does the uniformity option even do? and do I want it enabled?

 

[Nikyo]

Monitor got here today! ... It looks amazing as expected.

No dead pixels, might have one stuck pixel (or dust the size of one pixel) in very upper right corner but I might also just have bad eyes.

Manufacture date is June 2014

1. No pwm that I can tell using the site Nikyo posted but if I take a photo of the line the monitor does show more than one "band" but I assume that is just ghosting (shows up at 100% and 0% brightness)

2. Using the other site that Nikyo posted, the bottom half of the monitor does flicker once below 90% brightness.

One strange observation to note. If you display http://www.gdargaud.net/Hack/DeadPixel/GreenMagenta.html and observe the flicker then toggle the uniformity option on and off once or twice it totally disappears but ONLY when you are still in the OSD. Once you close the OSD the flickering starts again regardless of whether you have the uniformity option enabled or not... Interesting

3. I will post a head-on shot within the hour, waiting for my NEX-5R to charge.

My settings will be:
1/80 Shutter Speed
F5.0
800 ISO

Other Observations:
There is some backlight bleed in the lower left and upper left corners but only noticeable when viewing a totally black screen... could also be IPS glow, I really don't have experience differentiating the two.

I'll post some photos soon

Edit: What does the uniformity option even do? and do I want it enabled?

Thanks for posting, I'm looking forward to your head-on shots.

The PWM test is made mostly for eye-tracking, so if you see only one blurred line, then we're good. You can provide proof by moving the camera with the line, but that's unnecessary as I believe you and the model is likely just PWM free across the board.

Oddly enough, the flickering also stops when I select the 'Calibrated' preset option (to which I can't use because I don't have the software installed) in the OSD, but returns once out of the OSD.

The uniformity option simply tries to correct the brightness in different sectors of the screen so it's more even; it doesn't appear that it's causing the flickering, rather it appears to be an OSD issue.

 

[Kasai]

Alright, took some photos, not super great but whatever

I changed my settings a bit
1/25 shutter

Lighting: one 65W "warm" color bulb at half brightness directly above the camera (me)

Honestly, I think the photos make the bleed/glow look a lot worse than it actually is. The last photo in the post is probably closest to what I see at 30% brightness.

Photos are in this order for brightness:
0%
15%
30%
100%

Then I realized the photos don't exactly represent what I see very well so I tweaked some more settings on my camera and this last shot is at 30% and looks almost exactly like what I see in person.

If anyone wants any other photos or test results just let me know.

I have only played one game on the monitor so far and that would be far cry 4 (ultra settings) and the game looks absolutely amazing. I would consider myself a pretty hard core gamer and I couldn't detect any subjective input lag/difference from my TN Samsung.

As for the color calibration software/tool that is included... I don't really know what i'm doing. I ran the calibration but it seems like the result never "sticks" and the calibration preset in the OSD is only enabled directly after running the test but once you click complete it reverts back to the standard custom preset and you can no longer select the calibration preset... idk what the deal is, I must be missing something.

 

[Nikyo]

Alright, took some photos, not super great but whatever

I changed my settings a bit
1/25 shutter

Lighting: one 65W "warm" color bulb at half brightness directly above the camera (me)

Honestly, I think the photos make the bleed/glow look a lot worse than it actually is. The last photo in the post is probably closest to what I see at 30% brightness.

Your photos beat mine by miles.

I don't see any noticeable backlight bleed, rather it appears to be standard glow.

You may want to drop the brightness down a good bit. I found 30% to be much too bright for dark room use, and setting the brightness to 0 before calibration yielded 122 cd/m2, which is a tad higher than what I calibrate for (120 cd/m2). This is all assuming you're using the Custom preset, however.

Anyway, your unit looks perfect; rejoice!

I have only played one game on the monitor so far and that would be far cry 4 (ultra settings) and the game looks absolutely amazing. I would consider myself a pretty hard core gamer and I couldn't detect any subjective input lag/difference from my TN Samsung.

Good to hear.

If you happen play any of the big three FPS games (CoD, BF, CS), let us know how your experience went. I think a lot of people would benefit from this information.

As for the color calibration software/tool that is included... I don't really know what i'm doing. I ran the calibration but it seems like the result never "sticks" and the calibration preset in the OSD is only enabled directly after running the test but once you click complete it reverts back to the standard custom preset and you can no longer select the calibration preset... idk what the deal is, I must be missing something.

This one I might have to check out if I'm feeling not-lazy at some point in time. I'm basically assuming that the colourprime software does not function properly as there were already a few complaints in the LG31UM97's thread.

Hope you enjoy and thanks for the pictures, Kasai.

 

[beyondcrazy]

Hi Nikyo,

I'm honestly not a hardcore gamer these days (usually only when I'm playing w/ my son). I did try a few games, and they certainly look better than what I had before. Those that could run at 1440p are quite incredible. No ghosting issues, and the system seems to handle scaling/interpolation pretty well -- looks as sharp as can be expected. No ghosting that I could see, nor any lag delays.

Honestly, I probably would have chosen this monitor even if the game lag was higher. It's that good. The low lag is an added bonus.

I was more interested in the picture quality as a whole. Besides needing sharp text for coding/sysadmin, I was more interested in it for photo quality. My prior unit, an HP w2408h was ok -- still works fine. But it has this very very annoying condition where the screen would get significantly darker depending on what angle you were viewing the content. For general surfing it's fine, but for photography and dark gaming it sucks. I've been dealing w/ it for years, and finally decided to upgrade.

This monitor is certainly bright, but I'm just used to my older screen.

For the price point, this seems to be the best overall 1440p monitor for the money. I'm very happy with it.


1) Set it to custom at 10%... seems like there is no pwm. Single line. Same as 90%.

2) It does seem to have some wavy oscillation. Almost like water waves, that flow down. Seems more prominent towards the lower 1/2 of the screen.

3) Can't tonight, but will look into that over the holiday break.

Interesting, also it appears you're the first to receive a monitor to not be manufactured in September.

Could you post some of your subjective thoughts on gaming? Also, what monitor are you coming up from?

If you're capable and willing it be awesome if you could check for the following.

1.) Check for PWM at a brightness lower than 20% using http://www.testufo.com/#test=blurtrail (directions at the top; I don't expect it to have PWM, but it can't hurt to check.)

2.) http://www.gdargaud.net/Hack/DeadPixel/GreenMagenta.html Does this page show flickering at the bottom portion of the screen? (Not related to PWM)

3.) If it's possible, could you post a head-on shot of the screen glow like in my picture above?

Thanks in advance, and I hope you're enjoying it.

 

[Nikyo]

For the price point, this seems to be the best overall 1440p monitor for the money. I'm very happy with it.


1) Set it to custom at 10%... seems like there is no pwm. Single line. Same as 90%.

2) It does seem to have some wavy oscillation. Almost like water waves, that flow down. Seems more prominent towards the lower 1/2 of the screen.

3) Can't tonight, but will look into that over the holiday break.

Awesome, thanks for the heads-up and I'm glad it's a solid upgrade for you.

It sounds like the June, July and September models are identical.

No rush on the picture, but if you do find the time it's much obliged.

 

[Michael...]

My LG 27MB85R-B came today and I was very excited, but lo, I sent it back for replacement due to bad pixels, and a lower left corner bleed -- or glow -- that seemed pretty extreme to me.

As has been mentioned, B&H is currently out of stock. It took 10 days for this to arrive (I'm in New York City), so I figured better to get the exchange started.

I wrote down the serial number before I boxed it up, misremembering Nikyo's request for other owners to post their monitor manufacturing dates. Guess that's not much use.

I wonder if I might have calibrated before RMAing, if maybe the glow would have lessened with adjustments, as it appears to have in Kasai's. But the pixels were bothering me and I'm pretty sure they weren't going to get better. Next time I'll take pictures.

Regarding bleeding and/or glow: is there a difference? And I've seen talk of 90cm viewing distance, give or take. Is that meaning it gets better closer than that, or further away?

Oh, also...

DVI-D assuming you're using an Nvidia GPU; displayport is bugged on Nvidia GPUs and drops the contrast significantly, which sucks because you can only use PiP with displayport + hdmi or DVI.

I'm using a macbook pro with two graphics cards. Intel Iris Pro and NVIDIA. I'm not sure how the machine divvies them up. Does this NVIDIA displayport thing apply to my machine, does anyone know? I thought I had to use displayport/mini displayport.

Man this is a process. But I'm still psyched.

 

[Kasai]

Just to give an update, I was able to enable the calibration mode in the presets this time around... I saved my profile as an ICM rather than an ICC (default) which is apparently for mac. Not sure if that's what fixed it or maybe I was just screwing around with too much stuff idk. I set my brightness level to a 120 target and it put me at 8/100 brightness after calibration and I think it said that was something like 120.4 or w/e.

Michael: Nvidia probably has different drivers for both mac and pc so you might be safe but I don't know for sure.

 

[Nikyo]

My LG 27MB85R-B came today and I was very excited, but lo, I sent it back for replacement due to bad pixels, and a lower left corner bleed -- or glow -- that seemed pretty extreme to me.

As has been mentioned, B&H is currently out of stock. It took 10 days for this to arrive (I'm in New York City), so I figured better to get the exchange started.

I wrote down the serial number before I boxed it up, misremembering Nikyo's request for other owners to post their monitor manufacturing dates. Guess that's not much use.

I wonder if I might have calibrated before RMAing, if maybe the glow would have lessened with adjustments, as it appears to have in Kasai's. But the pixels were bothering me and I'm pretty sure they weren't going to get better. Next time I'll take pictures.

Regarding bleeding and/or glow: is there a difference? And I've seen talk of 90cm viewing distance, give or take. Is that meaning it gets better closer than that, or further away?

It appears you have the same luck with displays as I do.

Backlight bleed will generally appear as a yellow color often referred to as "Clouding". It'll persist no matter what angle you view the monitor at. IPS glow on the hand only appears at angles and will often vanish if viewed at a certain angle. Sitting @ 90cm is the general distance to which no IPS glow will appear head-on.

If you happen to have the brightness cranked, then glow or bleed will be much more apparent.

I'm using a macbook pro with two graphics cards. Intel Iris Pro and NVIDIA. I'm not sure how the machine divvies them up. Does this NVIDIA displayport thing apply to my machine, does anyone know? I thought I had to use displayport/mini displayport.

Man this is a process. But I'm still psyched.

Not too sure on this one.

Just to give an update, I was able to enable the calibration mode in the presets this time around... I saved my profile as an ICM rather than an ICC (default) which is apparently for mac. Not sure if that's what fixed it or maybe I was just screwing around with too much stuff idk. I set my brightness level to a 120 target and it put me at 8/100 brightness after calibration and I think it said that was something like 120.4 or w/e.

Michael: Nvidia probably has different drivers for both mac and pc so you might be safe but I don't know for sure.

Nice! Good to hear.

 

[Michael...]

It appears you have the same luck with displays as I do.

The thought crossed my mind that they sent me one of your returns, heh.

Thanks Nikyo, Kasai. I'll update when replacement comes.

 

[Anti-Hero]

I must resist the temptation to whip out my credit card...the reports of low glow are getting to be too good to pass up.

 

[ForestGreen]

My LG 27MB85R came yesterday, ordered from B&H. I was disappointed right after I opened the box.

For me looks like the styrofoam was ripped off and I'm thinking that this was a return.
The MFG Date is June 2014.

I couldn't make the calibrator to work. Some how the device get disconnected few seconds after the process begins.

There was a bleeding in the right upper corner(the yellow cloud).

I will return this one and will hope for better luck from the lottery next time !

 

[Nikyo]

My LG 27MB85R came yesterday, ordered from B&H. I was disappointed right after I opened the box.

For me looks like the styrofoam was ripped off and I'm thinking that this was a return.
The MFG Date is June 2014.

I couldn't make the calibrator to work. Some how the device get disconnected few seconds after the process begins.

There was a bleeding in the right upper corner(the yellow cloud).

I will return this one and will hope for better luck from the lottery next time !

I believe they're all packaged with a piece of styrofoam ripped from the middle; no cause for alarm.

Your picture is very overexposed, but if the backlight bleed is as bad in person that's very unfortunate . I was hoping we'd see consistently good build quality from all the units posted, but I suppose anything can happen.

Thanks for posting. I wish you luck on your next unit, and I hope to hear good news.