Learn from others water cooling mistakes...

B

boshi

Limp Gawd
Joined
Oct 5, 2003
Messages
330
I'm about to be putting together my first water-cooled PC, and I figure that before all the crap comes next weekend, I should do some reasearch. One of the best ways of avoiding problems is to learn from the mistakes of others.

The setup will be:
Dangerden AMD64 RBX
Athlon 64 3400+
Dangerden z-chip
Abit KV8-Max3
Dangerden Maze4 GPU block
Sapphire ATi Radeon 9800 Pro 256MB DDRII ( is basically an XT with pro BIOS from what I've heard ).
Eheim 1048 Pump
Blackice Radiator
Frozencpu tundra reservoir.
Cheiftec Dragon server series case.
edit: Swiftech HydrX UV reactive coolant.
edit2: 1/2" clearflex60 tubing

What mistakes/disasters have you encountered with a water-cooled system, and what could have been done to avoid them?
 
Number one thing: USE AN ADDITIVE. I would recommend water wetter, but antifreeze would also work. When using an additive like water wetter, USE THE RECOMMENDED AMOUNT. Too little, and you won't get the desired effect, too much and you'll reduce the systems cooling capacity. My first wc'ing rig I didn't use any additives, and when I first opened up my res after a few weeks, I swear it smelled like a sewer in there and everything was all slimey. That's algae for you I guess :p(mostly dead, I'd assume, from the rotting smell).

Number two: LEAK TEST! If your case has a motherboard tray, I'd recommend taking it out, setting your wc'ing loop up *exactly* how it would be in your case, and running a leak test.

Number three: Constantly(and I do mean constantly) have some sort of temperature monitoring program open that can also shut down your system if the temps get too high. Main reason for this is that there are tons of things that *could* happen to your WC'ing rig to cause it to fail. It's not likely, but it COULD happen, and there's no reason to not be prepared for it if it does. I run MBM5 anytime my computer is on for just that reason. Mainly because I leave my computer on a lot when I'm not here, and the last thing I want is to come home to a bunch of fried computer components.

Other than that, don't mix copper and aluminum(but it doesn't look like you are, anyway), have fun :D
 
OK, yep, I forgot to add that I was using the Swiftech HydrX coolant.

The leak test is a great idea, I'm gonna run the w/c without anything in the case first to make sure.

What would you reccomend for a temp monitor program? ( links would be appreciated )


Thanks for all the help so far, pics when I get it done.
 
Sometimes I buy a watercooling part and realize I could have gotten better. Then when I finally put it together, if I were to replace that item with something better, it's not like a heatsink where you can just simply replace it, you have to test it by leak testing which involves taking of all the tubing and components (unless you're running a ball valve somewhere).

Anyways, my suggestion to you is, research VERY CAREFULLY what you want exactly before you buy it or before you set it up. My Advice to you is, with an RBX, you need a more powerful pump unless you want to go through the process of testing nozzles with your RBX. I would recommend at LEAST a hydor L30 or Eheim 1250. If your willing to shed more cash get an MCP600 or Danger Den's new pump

http://www.dangerden.com/mall/Pumps/dd12vd4.asp

That block will seriously need a lot of head (haha... that sounds funny) and the MCP600 and Danger Den's new pump will accomodate the RBX perfectly. Unless you want an expensive Iwaki pump.
 
I URGE you to get a more powerful pump. The Eheim 1250 or the Hydor L30 will suit you fine. The RBX does need higher flow, and the z-chip and the Maze4 are real flow killers (Ive got the same setup, I know...). Return that 1048 and get a real pump :)

Another thing besides what has been said is to use HOSE CLAMPS. I know it sounds simple enough, but amazingly, people seem to forget this kinda thing and get leaks weeks after putting their system together.

MBM5 is a great program for temps. Use it. It runs nicely in the windows taskbar.

Have you thought about a shroud for your radiator? I know its not something that will cripple your system, but it does help your temps.
 
I just found out that MBM5 doesnt support the mobo I'm getting. :(

I am kinda reluctant to send the Eheim 1048 back to dangerden for the 1250, as I am getting the rest of my stuff by friday when I was planning upon putting it all toghther ( I suppose you guys know what it's like to have to wait another week for something when you have EVERYTHING else ). Is this something that is going to be a PROBLEM, or is it just something that could be better?

I was planning on using clamps on the things that didnt have barbed fittings, but I suppose that it wouldnt hurt to put them on all the fittings, barbed or not. :D

Thanks a bunch so far.
 
I dont see a mention about tubing.

Get some clearflex60 tubing. It's kinkproof just like Tygon, it's clear and it's cheaper then Tygon.

LMK if you want some I got some for sale.
 
yeah put the clamps (jubilee clips) on everything...the pressure around the system is quite significant and u dont want a hose popping off!!
 
Originally posted by boshi
I just found out that MBM5 doesnt support the mobo I'm getting. :(

Click to expand...

The Abit KV8-MAX3 has temp monitoring in the BIOS as well as Utility software which monitors temp and will shut down your PC if it gets beyond the temp you specify. First thing you need to do with that board though is update the BIOS and then shut off the alarm if no CPU fan is detected. You can't shut it off with the BIOS that comes on the board at least mine a rev1.2 I couldn't.
 
Not really a mistake, but a handy tip. If your waterblock holddown is one that uses screws through the motherboard holes, either drill holes or cut a big hole in your motherboard tray where the holddown screws are. This way you don't have to take your motherboard out everytime you need to mess with your system. It may not come up to often with other people, but I am in college and when I take my computer home for a weekend or something, I don't want to mess with the whole system so I just clock it down to stock speed and put the hsf back on.

Also, flush all your components with distilled water before you hook anything up. I used a heatercore and just a few hours after I had my system running, the tubes and everything were coated in some white residue shit from the heatercore. Since you are using parts specifically for watercooling that may not be a problem for you, but it may make life easier down the road.

Hose clamps!! Definately. There's really no reason to not use them.
 
Originally posted by jpmkm
Hose clamps!! Definately. There's really no reason to not use them.
Click to expand...

Hoseclamps are good. Metal hoseclamps are even better.

I agree with the flushing idea too. I've got that "residue" crap before as well.

I'm not sure if this has been mentioned, but I sorta regret getting a bay-res now.. and would view that as one potential "mistake" one can make. After removing it and constructing a 3-valve, double T-line fill system, I have improved flow rates, better temperatures, have greatly reduced the risk of leaks (from the res), and have increased the space available in my case (super lanboy).. The fill process is only slightly trickier, and , in the long run, a non-issue considering the benefits.
 
sorry whats the issue with getting a bay res?? I am just in the process of spec'ing out and building a new water cooling system, and a bay res on my list of things to buy...please fill me in...
 
I used metal hose clamps the first time I assembled my water cooling, the kind that you use a screw driver to tighten the clamp, and it allowed air to sneak into the loop in some areas, and made holes in the tubing in others. I used Tygon so it wasn't the tubing quality, now I use two zip ties on each barb and there is no way my hoses are coming loose. When I migrated my cooling to my current case that I'm now trying to sell as a set, I had zero leaks on the first attempt with zip ties. My fill/bleed T shape worked excelent to get the all the tiny bubbles my Danner Mag 3 caused because of its insane flow rate and turbulence.
Also for your water I used distilled, with Water wetter and betadine, and so far I have been using the same liquid for almost 6 months and no bugs yet.
Pretty much to make my coolant I emptied out about 7 ounces, dumped in all my water wetter bottle (I think its 4 ounces) and then about two ounces of betadine. The cool thing about betadine is it'll seal up small pinhole leaks.
Check out the pictures of my water cooling at the link in my sig, I'd recomend using a T to do your fill and bleed, but if you have the space in your case its much easier to put the T right at the inlet of your pump. This will also stop you from needing a resevoir but if you already have one on the way....

Good luck on the water cooling project how ever it comes along :p
 
Originally posted by camay123
I dont see a mention about tubing.

Get some clearflex60 tubing. It's kinkproof just like Tygon, it's clear and it's cheaper then Tygon.

LMK if you want some I got some for sale.
Click to expand...

yep, forgot to mention that I had already ordered 10' of clearflex60 :)

Originally posted by jpmkm
Not really a mistake, but a handy tip. If your waterblock holddown is one that uses screws through the motherboard holes, either drill holes or cut a big hole in your motherboard tray where the holddown screws are. This way you don't have to take your motherboard out everytime you need to mess with your system. It may not come up to often with other people, but I am in college and when I take my computer home for a weekend or something, I don't want to mess with the whole system so I just clock it down to stock speed and put the hsf back on.

Also, flush all your components with distilled water before you hook anything up. I used a heatercore and just a few hours after I had my system running, the tubes and everything were coated in some white residue shit from the heatercore. Since you are using parts specifically for watercooling that may not be a problem for you, but it may make life easier down the road.

Hose clamps!! Definately. There's really no reason to not use them.
Click to expand...

cutting a hole in the mobo tray is so far one of the most brilliant ideas I've heard, I will make sure I do that.


I was planning on using metal hose clamps from my local hardware store.

Originally posted by Dan UCF
I used metal hose clamps the first time I assembled my water cooling, the kind that you use a screw driver to tighten the clamp, and it allowed air to sneak into the loop in some areas, and made holes in the tubing in others. I used Tygon so it wasn't the tubing quality, now I use two zip ties on each barb and there is no way my hoses are coming loose. When I migrated my cooling to my current case that I'm now trying to sell as a set, I had zero leaks on the first attempt with zip ties. My fill/bleed T shape worked excelent to get the all the tiny bubbles my Danner Mag 3 caused because of its insane flow rate and turbulence.
Also for your water I used distilled, with Water wetter and betadine, and so far I have been using the same liquid for almost 6 months and no bugs yet.
Pretty much to make my coolant I emptied out about 7 ounces, dumped in all my water wetter bottle (I think its 4 ounces) and then about two ounces of betadine. The cool thing about betadine is it'll seal up small pinhole leaks.
Check out the pictures of my water cooling at the link in my sig, I'd recomend using a T to do your fill and bleed, but if you have the space in your case its much easier to put the T right at the inlet of your pump. This will also stop you from needing a resevoir but if you already have one on the way....

Good luck on the water cooling project how ever it comes along :p
Click to expand...

I was planning on the metal clamps, but now I may just use twist ties, I have a jillion of them already and the tool to put them on nice and tight.

I was planning on using the res because of the drop in temps and the simplicity of fill.
 
I'll prolly go with some really nice metal clamps that I have or twist ties.
 
Yes, and I am no longer interested. I can buy new metal clamps for less than your new nylon ones. Thanks anyways.
 
Does anyone else have anything to suggest?

If not, then I'm good to go, I'll post pics as soon as it's done.

Thanks
 
Originally posted by Syphon Filter
sorry whats the issue with getting a bay res?? I am just in the process of spec'ing out and building a new water cooling system, and a bay res on my list of things to buy...please fill me in...
Click to expand...

Hehe, I didn't mean to make anyone panic I'm just saying that I've read a few scary accounts of leaks after a year or so (especially with the bay-res in conjunction with coolant chemicals) plus all this flow-rate business (ie. the res being a source of flow resistance)... It all convinced me to play around with the extra T's and Y's and valves I had sitting around. I'd post a pic of the fill system I built but i'm not sure how where/how to post pics.
 
if this is ur first time experience with water cooling, i suggest the koolance case, the new pc2's, user friendly and not that complicated and very easy setup. G'unit
 
everyone seem to asking about teflon tape....do you mean PTFE tape? THe white plumbers tape thats used to seal the threads on barbs??
 
Originally posted by Syphon Filter
everyone seem to asking about teflon tape....do you mean PTFE tape? THe white plumbers tape thats used to seal the threads on barbs??
Click to expand...

PTFE = Polytetrafluoroethylene = Teflon

Yeah, white plumbers tape.
 
Ok, I'm gonna be putting it all togehter on friday. Pics early saturday morning!
 
Originally posted by v3rt1g0
PTFE = Polytetrafluoroethylene = Teflon

Yeah, white plumbers tape.
Click to expand...

on that note... if your local hardware store carries it... i recommend teflon paste.... littel more messy (as you use your finger to apply) but ends up being much more reliable, and alot easyer to work with, 1 tube goes along way and isnt much more expensive than the tape with the tape you have to make shure you put it on in the right direction and make shure none of it is covering the hole when your done... where as the paste is idiot proof.... just smeer it on screw the pieces together and wait for it to dry... (about 15-30 min) (DONT GET PIPE DOPE... its the wrong stuff)

thore
 
Just finished with everything. Installed everything and put on a moderate overclock.

Now running at 2.47GHz and 104 F load with 1.7vcore. Also raised the GPU to about 450 MHz. Running smooth and quiet.

3Dmark 2001SE score of 22000 on third try.
http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k1=7608510

I'll upload pics as soon as I find drivers for my digital camera.
 
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