Klipsch Promedia 5.1's - Amp repair

Keep the satellites, buy a subwoofer and a receiver. Job done.

Total money spent is way less than $300
 
kent said:
Keep the satellites, buy a subwoofer and a receiver. Job done.

Total money spent is way less than $300
Click to expand...

Replace a couple burnt components and upgrade cooling for. Total money spend is less than $100.

Just sayin... Granted, I can do the repair on my own. So, that may set me apart from a few of the people with this dilemna. Honestly, I wish I could afford to replace these speakers. I'd just rather fix them for less money $$$ though.

Daniel
 
I had my set since 2003 and got tired of sending my amps off every 12-18 months, even kept a spare amp I bought directly from Klipsch.

For me, the circuitry inclined it was much easier to 'upgrade'
 
That's fine, but the Klipsch sub is actually decent quality, and the sats sound decent, too. Sure it can't compare to a $400 VTF sub, but the sub itself is definitely *NOT* "cheap" by any means.

The only glaring problem with the Klipsch (when fixed) is it can't do optical i/o...
 
I've had a set of ProMedia 5.1 Ultras in storage for about 2 years now. Since I moved I don't have the room to set them up where I'm at. But I'm going to be moving again sometime soon, and am glad I happened upon this thread as I'm going to set them back up again when I do. I haven't yet had any problems with them, but I kind of anticipate a failure considering how many people have had trouble. At least I have some options to get them running again.
 
wow i just found this thread.
a couple of years ago i had the hissing problem with my BASH chip.
with the crazy prices of replacing the amp or a repair job, i found someone selling just the entire sub on craigslist and i bought that, still works after a couple of years perfectly, thank god.
 
My email today to our piece of shit friend Elliot Sanchez.

http://www.dallascounty.org/department/countyclerk/cclerk_index.html

Don't think I won't file a claim against you. Hell, I'll fly out there just to prove a point and then post the entire ordeal all over every public forum I can find with your full name, address, email address, everything I can find. You can stop this now by refunding my $118.21 to my PayPal account. I don't even want the amp back, keep it. Otherwise, I proceed with a phone call to the Dallas County Clerk of Court on December 1st to begin resolution.

I'll do it too. I'm following this one all the way through. This guy has scammed too many people.
 
As my Ultra 5.1s have finally gone belly up, I've contacted Henry to see if he has room in his queue for another repair. I don't trust myself to work on audio equipment and it may take extensive time researching to procure the proper hardware for the upgrades, so it will be nice to have someone capable of doing the upgrade for an affordable price.
 
I'm going after Elliot out of principle but don't even care anymore. Using Dolby Digital Live with an optical cable to an old Sony 500w 5.1 Receiver, and a BIC F12 sub, along with the 5 Klipsch separates, sounds completely awesome and so much better than the original Klipsch system.

I wouldn't go back to the old Klipsch system even if by some miracle it showed up in perfect working order. I'd probably just stick the amp in, test it, and put it on ebay.
 
Just a note for anyone else going through this, I just got off the phone with the Cedar Hill police department. It's ~$200 to file a civil suit so not really worth it, but you can send Elliot a letter via certified mail demanding that he return your functioning amplifier, or your broken amplifier and your money within 10 days.

At the same time, send a copy of this letter, along with who you are, contact info, description of your issue, and a copy of the certified letter receipt that you sent to Elliot to the following address:

Cedar Hill Police Department
285 Uptown Blvd.
Cedar Hill TX, 75104

Wait 10 days. Then if you haven't received your repaired amp, or your broken amp and money back, contact the Cedar Hill Police Department at 972-291-5181.

Essentially you have to send this final ultimatum demand letter and prove that you did. Once he doesn't comply, the local authorities will get involved.

I'll be sending out my letters tomorrow.
 
I was trying to read through the thread, but there are so many pages and I am not in any form familiar with these things. My dad is able to solder boards and do all that, but I need to diagnose the problem for him first.

I have the 5.1 Pro THX, they were initially hissing and now, no longer work. The control pod powers, but there is no sound from either sub, satellites, nor the headphone jack of the control pod. Taking the connectors out the back of the amp also does not make any noise.

Based on these findings, are you able to point to me where the problem is?

I have taken the unit apart and looked at the schematic. I see no obvious faults. I know that the fuse, relay and MOV1 are common problems on the Line filter. The fuse looks okay, I have 163ohms across MOV1, and I have no idea how to test the relay. Any help is appreciated, I have very little knowledge, but these things are busted so I figured I would at least give it a try. Any help is greatly appreciated.

EDIT:

Nevermind, found my problem on the AC/DC converter. Not sure how I missed it late last night.

photo3.jpg


I may need help finding parts though.
 
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Start at post #131 in this thread. I've linked it here:
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1034481563&postcount=131

Updated parts list is post #161
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1034617289&postcount=161

From the looks of it you burned up one or more of R527, D505, and D506, which is what happened to mine (#131). I don't recall any hissing prior to failure though, so you may have another failure somewhere else. You also mentioned the headphone jack not working, which was NOT the case when R527 burned open on mine. Bear with me and confirm that you know how to activate the heaphone jack by pressing the power button momentarily (someone else did not know this earlier in the thread). While you have everything apart I would replace everything in post #161. That is something I would do even if none of them was the problem. After those, if it still doesn't work, you can narrow it down to the failed component(s).

I would recommend you take the time to read through this thread starting from post #131 as there are several excellent troubleshooting posts along the way. Good luck.
 
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Thanks so much for the info, I will definitely start taking a read on this stuff after the new year. I just ordered a desolder pump to start taking the board apart. R527 was one of the first resistors I checked which seemed fine, but hard to tell with it still on the board.

I did NOT know about the headphone thing, haha, so thanks for the info. I never had a reason to use it, so never did. I'll read through and start taking stuff apart afterwards and will post back if I come up with anything new.

EDIT:

Quick question, with the transistors being so firmly attached to the ?heatshields, my dad said to basically desolder all of them to get the headshield off. Is there a better way to go about this?
 
In my case I was able to remove the clips holding the FETs to the heat sink and they separated easily when the heat sink was removed.
 
I actually got tired of replacing the control module and misc amp parts after 4 years, and upgraded to some MAudio AV40s. Even with the lack of bass, I'll never look back.
 
I have the original Promedia 4.1s. There are 2 issues I have.

1. When turning the main volume knob there is a lot of static.
2. When changing volume using the main volume knob, sometimes the left front speaker stops being amplified (maybe left rear too, not sure). All I have to do to fix it is raise or lower the volume a little with the knob. Is that a bad Pod? I know they offered an improved pod years ago, but I never bought it.

I love my speakers still, and would love to get these issues fixed if possible.
 
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WildWilly said:
I have the original Promedia 4.1s. There are 2 issues I have.

1. When turning the main volume knob there is a lot of static.
2. When changing volume using the main volume knob, sometimes the left front speaker stops being amplified (maybe left rear too, not sure). All I have to do to fix it is raise or lower the volume a little with the knob. Is that a bad Pod? I know they offered an improved pod years ago, but I never bought it.

I love my speakers still, and would love to get these issues fixed if possible.
Click to expand...
The knob (variable resistor) is bad or just may need cleaning. I have to do this for my Klispch 2.0 desktop speakers. I have to hit the spot just right for both channels to play clearly. I also have to repair my ProMedia 5.1 Ultra speakers as well since my amp hissed and burned out AGAIN after having Klipsch repair it. I've tried living with the soundbar that came with my Gateway 30" display but I can't do it, I need my ProMedia's back.
 
Anyone have the part number of these upgraded resistors? The forum mentions upgrading to 2 watts.
 
I learned of Elliot and Elliot-tronics while searching Ebay for a replacement power supply for my Klipsch SW10 II. I contacted Elliot and agreed to his repair fee of $120, which included him shipping it back to me. I had to pay to ship the amp to him. It cost me $25 to ship it to him. Elliot got my amp on Dec 3, 2010. He called me on Jan 5, 2011, to tell me what he had found and that he had repaired the power supply. I received the unit back today (Jan 8), installed it in my SW10, and all is well.

I must admit I did get concerned that I was scammed after reading the negative comments about Elliot on this forum. I had not seen this forum before sending Elliot my amp.

I am pleased with experience with Elliot. Hope others will be too.
 
whackjob said:
I learned of Elliot and Elliot-tronics while searching Ebay for a replacement power supply for my Klipsch SW10 II. I contacted Elliot and agreed to his repair fee of $120, which included him shipping it back to me. I had to pay to ship the amp to him. It cost me $25 to ship it to him. Elliot got my amp on Dec 3, 2010. He called me on Jan 5, 2011, to tell me what he had found and that he had repaired the power supply. I received the unit back today (Jan 8), installed it in my SW10, and all is well.

I must admit I did get concerned that I was scammed after reading the negative comments about Elliot on this forum. I had not seen this forum before sending Elliot my amp.

I am pleased with experience with Elliot. Hope others will be too.
Click to expand...

Thats a relief to hear. After scoping out this thread, I contacted both Elliot and Henry yesterday. Elliot responded back to me within a few hours and no word from Henry yet.
Im just hoping the those other incidents were just isolated events. If Henry doesn't respond by tomorrow, I guess I may be going with Elliot. Klispch got back to me with a quote of $150 to have it repaired. I'd rather go with someone who will repair and reinforce the parts to last.

Just to confirm, (Henry's) email address is: [email protected] ?
 
I need a new BASH chip, and noticed that Encompass Parts sells one from JBL and one from Infinity. The one from Infinity is cheaper then JBL and I was wondering if both are the same? Need one for my Klipsch Promedia 5.1
 
I am back. My dad was able to desolder a lot of the parts and tested most of them. I will probably be replacing most of the same parts in the parts list, but one part that was fried on mine was not one that was listed. I am unable to exactly tell what was there and I can't seem to find it on the schematic. All that is left is.. --26 of the label. If someone could to tell me what was there and which part it is, that would be really helpful.

IMG_20110117_182526.jpg
 
Was there a part number on it? It looks like a capacitor from what I can see from the photo in my repair post. If you tested it thinking it was a resistor it would read open loop. My guess is it is a multilayer ceramic film capacitor and I highly doubt it has failed unless it shows signs of physical damage. On my amp it that part appears to have been pristine.
 
Unfortunately the piece was completely burned beyond recognition. If anyone has theirs open and can take a quick look, any help is appreciated.
 
See if there's another one like it. You can see it in this picture. It's the yellow part in back. I am wondering if the reason it isn't listed on the schematic is because it is labelled differently due to board revision. For example, C539 on the schematic is C532 on my PMU5.1 amp.

Looking at the top and bottom pictures I see a very short trace running from the mystery part's location to the zener, which appears to indicate that your -26 part is C530 by the schematic. This would make is a 0.1uF filter capacitor with a voltage rating above 56V (probably 100V). If you can measure the dimensions (length, width, lead thickness, and the hole spacing on the board) we can find you a suitable replacement.
 
Hey,

Thanks for the response. Looking at the schematic I will agree that it is indeed the part that you mentioned. The only question now is how I should go about measuring these specifications you need.
 
MrHemi03 said:
How do you post photos? In process of repairing my 5.1 Ultra. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I use another imaging host like photobucket. Once you upload them, there is a IMG code link, just copy and paste that and you will get what I get.
 
Complaint:NO Sound from SAT or Sub-Only highpitch whine sound from SATS.
Replaced all MOSFETS and DIODES on pwr supply board and digital converter board.
Replaced 3-22uF Caps and 3-47uF Caps.
Replaced BASH chip on Sub side.

Tested. Sub now works.
Sat still have high pitch whine sounds.
Will test voltages and consider replacing the BASH controller for the SAT side.
 
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vertices said:
My email today to our piece of shit friend Elliot Sanchez.

http://www.dallascounty.org/department/countyclerk/cclerk_index.html

Don't think I won't file a claim against you. Hell, I'll fly out there just to prove a point and then post the entire ordeal all over every public forum I can find with your full name, address, email address, everything I can find. You can stop this now by refunding my $118.21 to my PayPal account. I don't even want the amp back, keep it. Otherwise, I proceed with a phone call to the Dallas County Clerk of Court on December 1st to begin resolution.

I'll do it too. I'm following this one all the way through. This guy has scammed too many people.
Click to expand...


I did finally get it back, 1 day past my deadline to him. It does work now, but who knows for how long.

It took so long though that I'm not even using it. Went to another solution while waiting. Using just the onboard optical out with Dolby Digital Live to an old Sony 5.1 receiver with a BIC F12 sub and the old Klipsch separates. Sound is KICKASS compared to using the Klipsch sub.

All that and that old Klipsch sub sits in my closet.
 
vertices said:
I did finally get it back, 1 day past my deadline to him. It does work now, but who knows for how long.

It took so long though that I'm not even using it. Went to another solution while waiting. Using just the onboard optical out with Dolby Digital Live to an old Sony 5.1 receiver with a BIC F12 sub and the old Klipsch separates. Sound is KICKASS compared to using the Klipsch sub.

All that and that old Klipsch sub sits in my closet.
Click to expand...



Go to a pawn shop and pick up some old but still very nice speakers with name cache. Like Paradigm. I sold my 5.1 amp/sub and 2 Paradigm bookshelf monitors for over $200 on eBay about a year ago when I replaced my amp/sub combo with a real receiver and a real sub.
 
The sound on my speakers keeps cutting out and producing a whining sound.
I tried to take apart the sub, but can't get the back panel off.

What screws are necessary for taking this thing apart?
I've taken out the 12 boarder screws and some random middle screws (put the middle ones back in since they seems to be holding stuff to the back plate)
 
Check said:
The sound on my speakers keeps cutting out and producing a whining sound.
I tried to take apart the sub, but can't get the back panel off.

What screws are necessary for taking this thing apart?
I've taken out the 12 boarder screws and some random middle screws (put the middle ones back in since they seems to be holding stuff to the back plate)
Click to expand...

never mind I got the bastard apart using a hammer and a screw driver...
 
I've got a set of the ProMedia 5.1 that's had the usual problems. Several years ago, after just a few months of use, they stopped working altogether. I had them fixed by Eliott, and I have to say that he did a great job. I got the speakers back about as quickly as promised, most of the delay being in shipping. (I used FedEx ground.)

However, while Eliott restored them to life, the speakers have continued to make a hissing sound when hot. Lately, the sound has been coming on even when the speakers aren't doing anything, and with the room at its coolest winter temperature. So I'm worried some other component is soon to die, and looking for a better solution than living without my speakers for six weeks while Eliott has another go at them.

Acquiring a separate 5.1 amp wasn't an option before, but prices have dropped to the point that at least a used one (without HDMI, for instance) could be a great way to go. However, I'm worried about what sub might work. Doesn't it need to be shielded, like the satellites? Does anyone have any specific recommendations regarding subs that would be a good match? (Sorry if I've missed previous posts along those lines, but this thread is 28 pages long...!)
 
Another thought... has anyone tried wiring up the ProMedia sub to an external amp?

Seems to me that the BASH amplifier is probably a self-contained piece, so there should be a pretty obvious lead going to the sub itself. It should be trivial to run that out of the enclosure. Then all you'd need would be a decent 5.1 amp, and the problems are solved, permanently.
 
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