Klipsch Promedia 5.1's - Amp repair

That's what I thought. When I put GND (black) on Pin2 and measure all other pins this is what I get.

Pin1 = +15V
Pin3 = -15V
Pin4 = Dead
Pin5 = Dead
 
fishhook check the path of your board from C525 to tip 5 of J13 and do the same with Q510 and C539 to tip4 of J13 if they are broken you can fix it with some wire.

edit pin 1 and 3 are for your sats and pin 5 is for your sub and pin 4 (22V) is going for your HC1011 chip
 
I guess I'm an official idiot now. I've been using an analog multimeter. I borrowed a digital one from a co-worker. I took the 3 big capacitors off and looked at the solder on top of the board to see if I had a good solder through the board. A couple of places looked empty/cause I used a de-solder iron and sucked it out when I was replacing the components. I soldered on the top's of a few places to get a good connection through and through. I rechecked the pins and now I'm getting (using pin 2 as the GRND for the black probe)

Pin 1 = 15V
Pin 2 = GND
Pin 3 = -22V
Pin 4 = -35 V (Approx) It actually slowly decreases
Pin 5 = -53 V (Approx) It actually slowly decreases too.

I'm just totally clueless.......
 
Bear with my lack of electronics knowledge...

The sub finally went out on my promedia ultra 5.1, so I took all the electronic stuff out of the sub enclosure and the only damage that I think I see is on a resistor on the circuit board with the 2 big 200V capacitors and the horizontal yellow cylinder thing. Towards the side of that circuit board with the 2 smaller black capacitors and the group of three even smaller purple capacitors is the resistor. It is the one right next to the three purple caps, below the black transistor. It's pink colored. Very close to the that pink resistor is some of that yellow glue stuff that is around the bases of the black capacitors and it looks like the yellow stuff and the pink resistor are connected by a silver colored stuff which is what I assume the damage is. The yellow material looks like it turned a brownish color right next to the silver connection between the resistor.

What is name of this resistor and the area that it is on? Should I replace it with one that is taller so that it doesn't touch the yellow stuff? Or is there a better grade version of it that I can use?

Edit: http://img411.imageshack.us/i/dsc01298copy.jpg/
This link is to syskjack's picture, not mine. The resistor I am talking about is that pink one in the picture.
 
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That's supposed to be a 680 ohm resistor next to the 5110 ohm R529. For whatever reason they decided not to label it. Load up the AC/DC Converter schematic and get out your multi/ohmmeter and make sure everything is at least close. The resistors on that side of the board will read within 5% of their listed value if they are still good. If you find a bad resistor it will be one of the ones in the parts list I posted a few pages back (http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1034617289&postcount=161).
 
fishhook remember when you check the voltages on J13 that you keep the red and black wires on J3 - J4 and J5 - J6. The system needs a load if not, the voltages will drop.

Your pin 1 on J13 is ok.

pin 3 on J13 is not ok,you get -22V so you have a problem with the U2 7915 the 15 in this last number is for the 15V and because it is a 79 you get -15V

pin4 is not ok so you have a problem with your D10 MUR1620CT

pin5 is not ok so you have a problem with your D4 MUR1660CT
 
mine was making the buzzing noise. took the amp out and sure enough the BASH board/chip was making a high pitch, hissing noise. so i wiggled the whole board a bit.. and bam.. fixed... haha..

ghetto as fix but hey it works for now. I'll replace the whole bash board once it breaks for good.

looks like a bad solder joint on the bash chip...

believe it or not.. it's pretty common occurance these days. the Lead free solder's melthing point is so high (475F) that a lot of times these boards are not baked long/hot enough.

if ti comes up again.. I'm gonna take the bash boards off and bake the thing in the oven at 500 for 10 min.
 
Got my ultra 5.1 amp back from Elliot today. Sounds most excellent. Thanks a ton Elliot. Thought I was gonna die w/o my ultra 5.1's. I'm a happy camper again. :):)
 
devilchrist it is the PWM latch which is causing all the trouble in the end:



The PWM latch is a small item on the HC 1011 bash chip see all about it here: http://www.thompdale.com/bash_amplifier/HC1010_HC1011/HC1010_HC1011.htm

You can resolder the HC 1011 and that will last a day,than you can wiggle it and it will last half a day,then you can wiggle it again and it last a couple of hours.......ect ect ect.....pfffffffffff!

But in the end you have to replace it as the PWM latch on the board is going slowly to it's dead.

Allready more than 100 people did what you have done and in the end you have to replace the HC 1011 Bash chip if you like it or not!

But if you insist, keep on wiggling.......
 
Hey Guys. I too have a power issue on my 5.1 ultra. The power comes on, but no sound comes through the speakers. I can get sound through the headphone jack. I opened it up and found that I don't seem to be getting power on the DC side of the AC/DC board. I took the schematics of the board and the board itself to the guy at my local shop who "tested" the board and says it the transformer. He's kind of slimy though and I get the feeling that he doesn't really want to mess with it. My trust level for him isn't very high, as he keeps delaying me and putting it off ("I can get the part next week sometime..." and that was a week ago, and last I talked to him he still hasn't even checked for it. Is there a part number that I should order? How hard is that to replace myself?

Heh, is someone going to make a drop in AC/DC converter so we can just order replacements and be done with this?
 
Awesome!
So its an Open ETD-44 Transformer. On the site you linked to I see 3 different frequencies and voltages for that kind. Do you happen to know which on it is, or what I should choose?
Do you know if there is an equivalent at www.mouser.com or a similar site where I could purchase it? Would I be better off running to radio shack?

Thanks!
 
I have the promedia 5.1 and it has had a low hum for a couple years.I just moved the subwoofer to the other side of my desk and away from my home stereo speakers and TV.Thinking it was getting some kind of interference.
But moving it made the problem worse.
Now as soon as I plug in the Sub and power on the controller the humming is so loud it is deafening.And this is without any speakers connected.
I ordered a new controller unit.But I still have the same problem.
Has anyone else had this problem ? And if so what do you recommend ?
I would like to get it fixed as the speakers work fine.And I now have two controllers.The old style and a new 5.1 ultra controler.

Thanks
 
archangel76 said:
Hey Guys. I too have a power issue on my 5.1 ultra. The power comes on, but no sound comes through the speakers. I can get sound through the headphone jack.
Click to expand...

Did you check R527? Should read around 4.7 ohms. Mine went bad and I had the same symptoms as you.
 
archangel76 go for the highest frequencie.

Try to make contact with these people: http://www.ecplaza.net/tradeleads/seller/4454568/etd44.html they can help you further with how and where to get.Forget Radio Shack they do not sell this kind of stuff.

Here a link and than you can download a datasheet about the ETD44: http://www.datasheetarchive.com/datasheet-pdf/066/DSA00259904.html

In the sheet you can read about the Ohm's of each coil. You need very very good DMM to measure these values.

So take out your transformer and check the values but better is to buy a new one they are cheap.
 
Sysjack, I have to remove R527 to take a reading on it, correct?

Ico, ty very much for digging that info up. I'll do what Sysjack says first, and then I'll try the transformer if R527 is ok.

I really don't like soldering. I'm not very good it at, probably b/c no one ever taught me lol. I'll see if I can't grab a friend who knows his stuff and we'll do some more investigating.

Thanks Everyone!
 
You can check it in place. If you're not sure how to interpret the reading post what you find and I'll try to help you out.
 
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Is there anyone that can post pics of the ac dc converter board? I am not sure the 2 sets of red and black wires are plugged in correctly.

I have not completely repaired my 5.1s yet. I also have no sound from my speakers, but the headphone jack works fine. Upon further investigation I found quite a few burnt resistors near the transformer and I did notice on the board there was a brown or tan colored substance near the caps on the converter board. I attached some pictures. Does anyone know if that's electrolytic a few leaky cap or is it nothing to worry about?
drcigg
 
The brown stuff around the larger caps is adhesive to keep them securely attached to the board.
 
Here fez,I encircled the two sets of red and black wires on the ac/dc converter:

 
I would check the following resistors:
R527 (4.7 ohm)
R529 (5110 ohm)
680 ohm (PCB position not labeled, next to 5110 ohm)
MR7 (100k ohm on daughter board)

It may be that it's a diode or the transistor that died. It might even be the BASH chip. Checking 4 resistors is a good start though.
 
I can definitely test those as well, but I wasn't getting any power at J513, so I think its on the ac/dc board.
 
Those are all on the AC/DC Converter board.

The BASH ICs aren't though, I guess that's what you meant.
 
archangel76 said:
I can definitely test those as well, but I wasn't getting any power at J513, so I think its on the ac/dc board.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I couldn't find some of those, so I was looking for the same label in other places. Doh.

Anyway, I'm not sure of the 2 next to R527. Closest to 527 gives:5020, and the next one over from it (nearest to the blue caps) gives: 5110 (R529 ?).
MR7 gives 100.5k.

Also, there is some very very faint scoring or black marks near the 3 resistors near J513... I think one of them is labled z5 something but I cannot tell. Starting with that one and working toward J513 gives:
7810
4590
668
I think.

-Mike
 
jlf26 said:
I have the promedia 5.1 and it has had a low hum for a couple years.I just moved the subwoofer to the other side of my desk and away from my home stereo speakers and TV.Thinking it was getting some kind of interference.
But moving it made the problem worse.
Now as soon as I plug in the Sub and power on the controller the humming is so loud it is deafening.And this is without any speakers connected.
I ordered a new controller unit.But I still have the same problem.
Has anyone else had this problem ? And if so what do you recommend ?
I would like to get it fixed as the speakers work fine.And I now have two controllers.The old style and a new 5.1 ultra controler.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Hey guys - I'm having the same issue; I just moved my desk to the other side of my office and now the sub is emitting a low humming noise and when I turn off the remote pod, the "shut down" buzz has a "tinnery" noise. Any suggestions? I'm up for a DIY if necessary and work at an electronics distributor, so replacement parts will be no issue to obtain! :cool:
 
archangel76 said:
Sorry, I couldn't find some of those, so I was looking for the same label in other places. Doh.

Anyway, I'm not sure of the 2 next to R527. Closest to 527 gives:5020, and the next one over from it (nearest to the blue caps) gives: 5110 (R529 ?).
MR7 gives 100.5k.

Also, there is some very very faint scoring or black marks near the 3 resistors near J513... I think one of them is labled z5 something but I cannot tell. Starting with that one and working toward J513 gives:
7810
4590
668
I think.

-Mike
Click to expand...


Please do not take offense to this, because I applaud your efforts, but if you cannot locate the indicated resistors from the schematic or tell the difference between a resistor and a diode, this may not be the DIY project for you. As you have probably discovered, this kind of thing requires a certain amount of prior knowledge and experience to figure out. You should consider enlisting the help of someone locally who is familiar with electronics repair or electrical engineering, or paying someone like Elliot do perform the work for you.

If you are feeling adventurous though you can start replacing things. The transistor (Q10) might be a good starting point, but more likely you'd want to replace multiple parts at once like I and some others did. It could very well be the transformer, but it is probably one of the more robust parts on the board. Check my post here for a parts listing. Also check my repair post here for some pictures that may help a little. This one shows some board labels where I took parts off. The component to the left of the U501 label is the zener diode you took a resistance measurement from. Below that is R529 5110ohm, and below that is the 680ohm. Near R527's position are D505 and D506 diodes which you also took resistance measurements from. Without high res pictures of the board it is hard to tell you where to look from here.

You said you didn't have power out of J513 but you didn't say which pins. J513 is the name of that whole connector.
 
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Hi,
Thanks for all the useful information in this thread. My Promedia 5.1 (earlyish model) started cutting out a month or two ago. The symptom was that the satellites would drop out while the subwoofer would keep working normally. At first it was a spot thing, but it became progressively worse until they would only run for a few minutes, if at all. During the course of it's decline I did a little troubleshooting in more or less this manner.

First, inspection didn't show any areas that had obviously been overheated and all the components looked normal. So I tested the voltage between the pins T5 and T6 on the digital converter board. It was 56 V both when the sats were working and when they dropped out. Since that is the satellite power input I figured the AC-DC board was working properly as far as the transformer winding and diodes were concerned. Next I tested between pins T7 and T8 on the digital board. This showed 56 V when the sats were working and an unstable low voltage when they weren't (EDIT: 56V is wrong, I believe it was 7 to 9 volts when the sats were working and millivolts to negative millivolts to jumping all over when the sats weren't working properly). That told me something was going wrong on the digital board.

Next I looked at the schematics and found out what the inputs to the digital board were. Since my 56 V output would go bad whether I was putting in an audio signal or not I decided to look at the reference voltages first. That means J13 on the AC-DC board. All was right except that the pin 4 22V reference would drop to an unstable 15V when the sat voltage dropped out at the output of the digital board. I tested the 680 ohm resistor (unlabeled) and the 5110 ohm resistor (R29) and they were both ok. I tested the voltage at the top of the zener (Z11) and it was 23V both when the sats were working and when they weren't. Next I tested the voltage between the 680 ohm resistor and Q10 (2N5551) and ground. It would go from 41.8V when the sats were working to 56V when they cut out. This told me that Q10 was not conducting when the sats were out. A look at the schematic showed only wiring between pin 4 J13 and pin 4 of J2 on the digital board (input of the 22V reference to that board). Next I tested the voltage between that pin 4 and ground and found the behavior was the same as on J13. That suggested that there wasn't an intermittent open between the AC-DC output and the digital board input. Meaning Q10 was the likely culprit. A trip to the local electronics shop and the outlay of ten cents got me a replacement 2N5551. A few minutes of unsoldering and resoldering got it installed. And all is right in the world of my amp again. Hope it lasts.

I apologize for the length of the post. I noted while reading this thread that a lot of the people that want to look into this problem are not very experienced in electronics repair and I am hoping that my overlong description of my fix could be used as a simple step by step for others suffering the same amp symptoms.

Michael
 
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Excellent post, Michael! Thank you for sharing and laying out your troubleshooting process. Well done.
 
Sysjack,

It was only through reading earlier pages of posts by you and others that I found the excellent links to schematics and photos and ideas of what could be wrong. And only then did I work up the guts to dig into an amp this complicated. So it was my pleasure to pass on what I found on my amp.

Michael
 
Getting the hiss on my system now...grrrr

When wiggling the chip it either fixes/increases the hiss.

What I find weird is that when I turn off the amp for a few minutes, the hiss is back when I power on.

At every power ON/OFF, the intensity of the hiss varies. Wouldn't this be related to a nearby capacitor or inductor? How are these components aligned with the chip (Cap/Inductor-->Bash , Bash->Cap/Inductor, or even Cap/Inductor->Bash->Cap/Inductor )?

If anything has to be replaced I am just going to sell it...
 
Hi folks. This is a great forum. I see that there's been some references to 2.1s earlier on and so I hope you don't mind if I seek some guidance.

My subwoofer has quit. The satellite speakers work. The light is on. The actual subwoofer speaker works (I connected it to other speaker wires and it blasts out). If I put my ear to the subwoofer I can hear faint sound (ie music etc) and that faint sound increases and diminishes with the subwoofer volume control on the satellite speaker.

I've pulled out the amp. All looks good but for two resistors on the LF amp board, R17 and R17 I think. They look baked but still show 1k ohms.

I've found Elliot from this forum and will be in touch but you guys seem to have some very arcane knowledge about this equipment.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Is using these speakers with a regular amp/receiver as easy as:

- Finding one that uses 8ohm speakers
- Hooking it up
- ???
- Profit!

I've just blown my 3rd amp in 6 years :(
 
I to had no sound from my klipsch 5.1s.
After about an hour of investigation and reading on the forums
I replaced:
R527 (4.7 ohm) ---
R529 (5110 ohm) ---
680 ohm
D5 and D6 (FR204) ---
All three 47uF
Q10 (2N5551)
The sound worked great for about 15 minutes. Now the sound will play for 10 seconds then its sounds muffled or distorted for 15 seconds then it sounds fine. When I let the speakers sit for a few hours the audio works for about 5 minutes then it sounds muffled like before

I measured at J13

14.8 Pin 1

-20.4 Pin 3

-26.5 Pin 4

-32.9 Pin 5

J6 -57v

J5 .3v

D3 -41v

Any insight on where to go to next would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Gentle men and gentle women, I too have problems with Klipsch Promedia 5.1 Ultras. The problem is that when on, there exists a persistent hissing noise. The frequency of this noise increases with time and apparently temperature. Having little patience for such things, when this first happened two years ago, I promptly purchased the Z5500 and continued using the Klipsch satellites since the Z5500 were inferior IMHO. Now I have some time, a renewed inspiration for fixing things, and thanks to many of you, resources like schematics and technical details which did not exist two years ago.

My problem is very similar to the one described by fishhook. I have 0 volts on both J3 and J5. I have -77V on J4 and -44V on J6. On the 5 pin connector off of the AC2DC board, I have 17, 0, -13, -22, -52V. I am not too good at analog electronics but am willing to learn.

Given that I have no positive voltage going to the sats or sub, I am getting excellent audio out so long as the volume is up to overcome the hissing noise which isn’t really loud.

I have ordered a bunch of parts from Mouser which should be here before Christmas and have test equipment on hand to debug and trace signals. Ideally I’d like to avoid having to pull every part off of the board to test it. Some here have mentioned D10 and D4 as possible problem sources; luckily I have two of each on the way and can pull these to test. But I am wondering, could the problem be caused on the other side of the transformer by the IRF740’s?
 
Hey, can anyone tell me the specifics on what kind of receiver I need to buy to ensure the satellites/center work?
 
fez said:
I to had no sound from my klipsch 5.1s.
After about an hour of investigation and reading on the forums
I replaced:
R527 (4.7 ohm) ---
R529 (5110 ohm) ---
680 ohm
D5 and D6 (FR204) ---
All three 47uF
Q10 (2N5551)
The sound worked great for about 15 minutes. Now the sound will play for 10 seconds then its sounds muffled or distorted for 15 seconds then it sounds fine. When I let the speakers sit for a few hours the audio works for about 5 minutes then it sounds muffled like before

I measured at J13

14.8 Pin 1

-20.4 Pin 3

-26.5 Pin 4

-32.9 Pin 5

J6 -57v

J5 .3v

D3 -41v

Any insight on where to go to next would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

While pins 3 and 4 are about 5V off on J513, J5 at 0.3V is the one that really sticks out here. That is supposed to be +56V. Since you have only 0.3V on J5 and the full -57V on J6, you are only getting half your satellite signal amplified. I would probe out all the points along that line on the schematic and see where the voltage drop is or if you even have full voltage coming out of the transformer to begin with.

Interesting that replacing those components helped but left some issue though, that suggests you are sometimes getting full amplification but sometimes not. All but one (Q10) of the components you replaced are passive and if you bought parts listed in this thread they would be uprated components (except Q10). I have to wonder if the problem is on the AC input side of the transformer as well.
 
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