Klipsch Promedia 5.1's - Amp repair

I don't mean to hijack this thread or anything, but as others have noted with regards to Elliott .... Where's my amp? This is a response I got from Elliott.....on August 24th.

Is almost done, should be out by the end of this week and after it ships you'll get an e-mail w/tracking info.
Cheers,
Elliott

No amp. No replies to any of my emails.

Elliott,
Where's my amp? I just want an honest answer and of course my amp. Nathan in TN
 
fishhook said:
I don't mean to hijack this thread or anything, but as others have noted with regards to Elliott .... Where's my amp? This is a response I got from Elliott.....on August 24th.

Is almost done, should be out by the end of this week and after it ships you'll get an e-mail w/tracking info.
Cheers,
Elliott

No amp. No replies to any of my emails.

Elliott,
Where's my amp? I just want an honest answer and of course my amp. Nathan in TN
Click to expand...


Your amp was finished and shipped already, the shipping info was sent to your e-mail...

Regards.
Elliott
 
Anyone ever try and retrofit a different amp setup in this Klipsch 5.1 Promedia box? I'm pretty much throwing in the towel. I've replaced everything recommended on the project list except that R527 that no one has which reads fine. Anyway, it's still blowing up the Q501 Mosfet and fuses. It's difficult since the two 8" subs are each 6ohms. Therefore I've got the option of going 12 ohms or 3...Just thought I'd ask before I get rid of this poorly designed box. Any info would be great.

Thanks much,
Robert
 
Man I love my Klipsch 5.1. Had it almost 5 years? Give or take.

I'm sure there are better 5.1 systems out there for thousands of dollars, but none that were $400 and had 500 watts :D
 
Well, my younger brother's promedia 4.1 6" speaker surrounds are torn up but his amp is still strong. One of a few things I plan on tinkering with later this afternoon will be checking out the power supply on his 4.1 and see if it can be pulled an put in the 5.1. I don't have high hopes but worth a shot. I'll have to open it up and check the specs of everything. I'm not even sure that the design is the same. Or I may try and throw his entire amp in this 5.1 box with the 8s. I think it's rated at a lower wattage and the amp plate is a bit smaller but what the heck. I may adapt the plate to fit. Worst case is to replace the surrounds and let him keep the original 6s...
 
Make sure you check everything for shorts on the AC/DC converter and the line filter board (where the power cord plugs in). Without having the thing in front of me I can't offer you too much help but it seems like something in there is shorted or close to it. Make sure any components that are sensitive to polarity are installed in the right direction.

I am suspicious of your transformer. If it has somehow shorted in the coil attached to Q501 I believe you would be seeing this kind of failure, since you said in addition to Q501 frying you also had some burning of the daughter board. If you look at the schematic you'll see that all the stuff you are blowing up (except the fuse) is connected to pins 6, 7 and 9 of T2, which is an ETD44 transformer. I can't offer you any help in determining if it is at fault, just that it is something to consider.

That said, it could also be several of the other components on the board like Q3, the numerous diodes and resistors, or it could be the input from the line filter board. I would say it is somewhat safe to assume your problem lies on the AC side of the board though.
 
I've got static/buzzing in my speakers even with everything unplugged (no inputs). I sent my amp off to Elliott a while back and got it back yesterday. I thought and was hoping that the repairs and upgrades that Elliott did would have fixed the problem.

Anyways, is there anyone that has or had this problem and gotten it fixed?
 
fishhook, same problem here... try to pull the amp plate out and check the 2 BASH HC1011 chips. If you hear either chip making noise, try wiggling it and/or pressing down gently on it. If that stops the buzzing, that is your problem.

I know for certain my problem is the BASH HC1011 that goes to the satellites. I even resoldered it and it didn't fix the problem. I have not ordered a new chip yet, however ... and honestly don't know if I will. Might put the entire set up for sale for someone that can fix it.
 
Hey Big,

I took my amp back out and plugged everything up and turned it on. There is definitely a very very high pitch whine ... so high you can almost not hear it ... and it does sound like it is coming from that area. I pressed/wiggled the BASH HC1011 chips and there was no change at all. When I turned the power off to put the amp back in, I noticed an audible sound "like a door creaking open or shut" that changed pitch as it faded.
 
High pitched whine I would bet is coming from the H2 chip. It does exactly that on my set. Wiggling and pressing down on the chip doesn't instantly get rid of it, it takes a little bit of time. If you are getting the high pitched whine in the speakers, it is most likely the H2 chip, and not the H1 which goes to the subs.
 
So which one is the H2 (I'm assuming that you are referring to one of the BASH chips). Is it very hard to replace?
 
I just re-checked the BASH chips. When I got my ear close enough to the H2 chip and wiggled it the pitch of the whine changed. The H1 did the same thing too. Regardless, there was no change in the static in the speakers.
 
Looks like both of yours are bad. Weird that you can't get it to stop making the noise, but perhaps yours are further along in death than mine.
 
I was just messing around some more and I got shocked literally. I was touching the outside of the amp housing and touched a HEAT SHIELD and it would shock me every time. Is that normal? The heat shield I'm talking about is on the AC board next to the 820 uF 200v capacitors.
 
No idea, I try to avoid touching ANYTHING while in there. The only 2 things I have touched at all are those BASH HC1011 chips, and only on top of them. Don't hurt yourself messing around in there.
 
I have the same problem with the HC 1011 chip when it whines my sub goes dead.

I ordered two new ones (one extra if my sats will give up).

I think this little diode ( ? ) is the troublemaker,I put a screwdriver between it and the black thing (what is that?) and wiggle a bit:



My sub is back and no more whine. Within two weeks I get my chips.Yep that long, I live in Europe.

Let everybody hear how things workout.

http://www.thompdale.com/bash_amplifier/HC1010_HC1011/HC1010_HC1011.htm

JBL and Infinity uses different names: http://www.encompassparts.com/products/?HC1011
 
I have the speakers boxed up at the moment Ico, but I will definitely test out that diode you pointed out. If that is the entire source of the problem on the chip, I wonder if buying a whole new chip could be avoided? I don't want to spent $30+ right now to fix speakers I don't have much faith in not breaking again soon. Will report back after trying that diode thing, thanks Ico.

Edit: He might be on to something, picture below...

Picture removed, false positive, new picture and description below...

Edit2: Found the real cause of the problem, pic...



Somewhere in between the 2 blue arrows, when I shorted, got rid of ALL noise... the high pitched squealing, the hissing, all of it. It worked for a short time while I had the screwdriver in place. Sadly I fumbled it just a tiny tiny bit, and the screwdriver nicked the thing circled in red. Tiny puff of smoke and a small burn mark on the red circled thing, and no sound at all for the satellites anymore. :( Sub still works. I absolutely need a new HC1011 now.

Anyone happen to have a spare HC1011 from speakers they don't want to fix up? Or perhaps the KAT 1400-03 Rev. C board itself. I don't really expect anyone to have one, but hey, it is worth a shot.
 
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fishhook said:
I was just messing around some more and I got shocked literally. I was touching the outside of the amp housing and touched a HEAT SHIELD and it would shock me every time. Is that normal? The heat shield I'm talking about is on the AC board next to the 820 uF 200v capacitors.
Click to expand...

No its not IIRC. The heat shield should be insulated from the FETS its attached to and is grounded by the screws holding it in.

I may be mistaken on that. If so that would mean a rather largish part of that board is energized and poking around on it while on could be dangerous.

For instance: ( :p )

Big[H said:
]I fumbled it just a tiny tiny bit, and the screwdriver nicked the thing circled in red. Tiny puff of smoke and a small burn mark on the red circled thing, and no sound at all for the satellites anymore.
Click to expand...

Ouch. It may have been one of the solder joints on those two diodes. If you can hunt down the parts and are really good at soldering you might be able to ressurect that bad boy by replacing the two diodes and the capacitor (I believe thats what the red circle is). As long as the BASH IC itself is still good you should be ok.
 
Ico said:
I have the same problem with the HC 1011 chip when it whines my sub goes dead.

I ordered two new ones (one extra if my sats will give up).

I think this little diode ( ? ) is the troublemaker,I put a screwdriver between it and the black thing (what is that?) and wiggle a bit:

My sub is back and no more whine. Within two weeks I get my chips.Yep that long, I live in Europe.
Click to expand...

Try reheating the two ends of the diode (circled thingy) with a small soldering iron or even a high temp pencil torch or fancy lighter. If you just get the solder to briefly melt it will form a good bond when it cools back. Should save you from needing a new BASH assembly and having to swap the whole daughter board.
 
I have a perfectly working Promedia Ultra subwoofer/amp and control pod I am trying to sell.

If anyone wants to PM me we can negotiate a price.

The thing is in perfect condition, sitting in a box waiting for someone to own it.:D
 
magoo said:
I have a perfectly working Promedia Ultra subwoofer/amp and control pod I am trying to sell.

If anyone wants to PM me we can negotiate a price.

The thing is in perfect condition, sitting in a box waiting for someone to own it.:D
Click to expand...

Do you have the center channel by chance??
 
BERTUZZZZi said:
can the Klipsch 5.1 promedia ultra be used for my TV/Consoles as well as PC at the same time??
Click to expand...

I'm doing exactly this right now, but I'm using the Creative DDTS-100 as a intermediate component. I'm not even sure they still sell this device, but it works really well with the Promedia 5.1's for use with a PC and with your home theater.

It's designed to be used with computer speakers and to be hooked up to your PC and everything else at the same time. It has three Optical Inputs, one digital coax and three RCA inputs. It also decodes Dolby Digital EX and DTS EX stuff. It works really well for connecting the Promedia's to your TV/DVD and PC.

It cost around $100 when I got it back in 2004. Not sure if it is still available or the cost on it nowadays.

http://us.creative.com/products/product.asp?category=4&subcategory=136&product=9468

EDIT: Apparently these were discontinued and are hard to find. I briefly looked for an alternative, but couldn't find any. I couldn't even find one on eBay for sale.
 
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Ok, I've got another problem now. I was just looking over the power supply at some of the "hot" areas and saw a few places that I wanted to check with a multimeter. I unhooked the J3,J4,J5,J6 connectors along with the J13 connector and powered up the power supply. I did my checks, turned off the power supply, and replugged all the connectors back up. Upon reattaching the J3-J4 (85v), J5-J6 (56v) legs ... both of them "popped/shorted out". Now the Sub won't come on and the satellites sound like that have no amplification at all. I still have 85v and 56v going to the J3-J4 and J5-J6 areas but on the J13 pin connector I don't have the 22v nor the 32v.

I've replaced all the components from racerc2000's list and there still is no voltage going to those pins. What might have happened? Could the transformer be bad? If so, what's the number and is there a replacement for it?
 
I don't mean to threadjack either here - but this seems to be the last resort to getting things done...

Sent my sub in to Elliot on 8/12/09, sent an email on 9/16 about status - Elliot replied that it would be shipped sometime next week.

It is now 10/29, I have sent Elliot two additional emails without response.

This seems to be a recurring trend as of late - where is my unit, or at least an update about it?

Dave H.
 
Looking for a status on my sub repair as well. Elliot received my sub on 09/24/09 (shipped from Ontario, Canada). Sent two e-mails this week just to get an update but no response. Elliot if you require further details please PM me. Thanks.
 
How do you open the control pod on the 5.1 ultra? I took the two screws off of it on the bottom of the pod and tried prying at what looks like the only seam on the pod, but the plastic keeps getting mangled and I am afraid I'm opening it wrong.
 
Looks like I'm not alone. Sent my promedia ultra 5.1 amp to elliot 9/24/09. I emailed him last week and he replied saying he had to order parts, check back next week. I've emailed him twice this week but no reply. Hmm, now what?
Martin G.
 
Mort81 said:
Looks like I'm not alone. Sent my promedia ultra 5.1 amp to elliot 9/24/09. I emailed him last week and he replied saying he had to order parts, check back next week. I've emailed him twice this week but no reply. Hmm, now what?
Martin G.
Click to expand...

I received a PM from Elliot today stating he is back ordered on some parts. He is expecting the parts to arrive this Monday and will ship my amp next week.
 
Hi, i'm becoming a victim of the 5.1 amp failure. I have a set of the Ultra's. Although they still work, there has been a few events. Once the sub stopped working all together, plus get some buzzing type noises through the speakers as well at times. I had a look at your schematics and checked the voltages on the AC/DC board and came up with this:


J513:

+15
GND
-15
+22
+32


(i had the negative on chassis for ground)

J503 +5

J504 -83

J505 -53

J506 +4.7
 
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Ok here an update about the HC1011 bash chip. I replaced the part and my klipsch is fixed. My sub works again no hiss or whine or cracks or pops. It is the HC1011 bash chip in the buck converter that is making all the trouble if your sub or sats fails.

Here a pic of my new chip and notice that there is no blackstuff arround the current-sense-comparoter/PWM-latch:



see the old ones here: http://www.thompdale.com/bash_amplifier/HC1010_HC1011/HC1010_HC1011.htm

If you have no skill in soldering forget to replace the HC1011 chip it won't work bring it to a skilled person. If you still insist doing it you self buy your self a good soldering iron and some litze wire to suck off the solder: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Litz_wire please be very patient you have to suck solder off 15 points and that takes time.Good luck.

mgman71 have a look at this:



your 5 J13 voltages are ok.

Check between J5 and J6 ( 56V ) and between J3 and J4 ( 85V ) if these are ok you have to replace your HC1011 chip.You amp got two,one for the sub and one for the sats.
 
OK, just as advice (and since I've been working on these amps for the past 3 years) replacing the BASH IC alone will in some rare cases result in temporary operation of your amp, the power supply in the schematic above has most of the major problems and causes the BASH IC's to fail, if this power supply is not repaired/updated your brand new BASH IC will only last a few days or weeks and die again. Sorry but I will not give any technical info or details to anyone so please don't ask, just know that by replacing the BASH IC alone will not fix your amp properly and you will probably just end up wasting your time and money.

Also, to the people that are waiting for updates:
I received a shipment of parts today that was in back order for a while so now I should be able to finish your amps and send them out by the end of this week.

Regards,
Elliott
 
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elliot-tronics said:
OK, just as advice (and since I've been working on these amps for the past 3 years) replacing the BASH IC alone will in some rare cases result in temporary operation of your amp, the power supply in the schematic above has most of the major problems and causes the BASH IC's to fail, if this power supply is not repaired/updated your brand new BASH IC will only last a few days or weeks and die again. Sorry but I will not give any technical info or details to anyone so please don't ask, just know that by replacing the BASH IC alone will not fix your amp properly and you will probably just end up wasting your time and money.
Click to expand...

Interesting, thanks for the info. It absolutely makes sense to fix the root cause of the failure rather than just the symptom. It also makes sense that the power supply, being as unreliable as it is, would be the cause of failure.
 
fishhook said:
Ok, I've got another problem now. I was just looking over the power supply at some of the "hot" areas and saw a few places that I wanted to check with a multimeter. I unhooked the J3,J4,J5,J6 connectors along with the J13 connector and powered up the power supply. I did my checks, turned off the power supply, and replugged all the connectors back up. Upon reattaching the J3-J4 (85v), J5-J6 (56v) legs ... both of them "popped/shorted out". Now the Sub won't come on and the satellites sound like that have no amplification at all. I still have 85v and 56v going to the J3-J4 and J5-J6 areas but on the J13 pin connector I don't have the 22v nor the 32v.

I've replaced all the components from racerc2000's list and there still is no voltage going to those pins. What might have happened? Could the transformer be bad? If so, what's the number and is there a replacement for it?
Click to expand...

Anyone have any ideas?
 
fishhook have a look at this again:




your transformer is not dead I am nearly 100% sure of that.

Try to replace ultra fast rectifier D10 which is a MUR 1620CT en replace ultrafast rectifier D4 and that is a MUR 1660CT and you get your 22V and 32V back
 
Ico said:
fishhook have a look at this again:




your transformer is not dead I am nearly 100% sure of that.

Try to replace ultra fast rectifier D10 which is a MUR 1620CT en replace ultrafast rectifier D4 and that is a MUR 1660CT and you get your 22V and 32V back
Click to expand...

I have replaced them. I used racerc2000's list and replaced all those components as well. Still a no go.
 
Ico,

No I didn't replace Z11. Question: When I measure C525 I get 32 volts across the poles. If I try the ground on the cap to pin 5 on J13 I get 32v (obviously) but, when I measure the ground (pin2) on the J13 to (pin5) I get nothing. Is that right?
 
fishhook that is not right. I can measure all the points on J13 with my black probe on pin 2 of J13.

So when you put the black one on pin 2 you measure +15V on tip 1 with your red probe.

Your red probe on the tip 3 and your meter reads -15V.
tip 4 = +22V
tip 5= +32V
 
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