- Sep 22, 2000
^^ Ordered from Vetco.. thanks!
Does anyone know if its possible to connect the 4.1 Pro Media Speakers to a TV or even a DVD player safely? I dont use them anymore for my PC since I like headphones better...
Btc...I also live in Michigan. I sent my 5.1 Ultra amp off to Henry and he fixed it. Fast service. Very friendly and helpful. I would recommend him over the Holland place.
im also having problem with my promedia 5.1 thx i think the bash module hc1011 is the culprit.. symptoms: satelite speakers cuts off randomly.. satelite also produce distortion and i noticed a lost of punch with my sub. i checked every weak points in the ac dc board( although my klipsch is still working and i didn't see any signs of charring) tested the 2n5551 transistor, the r527 resistor etc... i noticed my klipsch has factory upgraded resistors the suppose to be 1/4 watt resistor from r527 is 1 watt and r7 from the daughter board is 1 watt and other resistors are bigger than other klipsch owners here posted before.(probably because my klipsch release date was 2006) but the 22 uf caps 50v and the 47 uf caps 50v are still thesame max operating temp is 85c ill consider upgrading these parts to mil spec parts for durability ehancement. i also manufactured a bigger heatsinks for the ac dc board for added heat dissipation.
orded the module at harman audio in singapore and will arrive in 30 days. im in the philippines by the way.
I stumbled upon stpetesheperds old post on Ebay Regarding cooling kit upgrade for klipsch promedia 5.1 thx ultra.. i think this might be a help for others out there who's looking for a guide or some tips on how to troubleshoot their klipsch.
Tip #1: If your Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 system has lost just the satellites or just the sub, or these are intermittent, carefully inspect the white, the green and the orange-yellow connectors that link the boards together inside the sub. The connector's pins can lose their spring (due to current and heat, most likely), and one or more contacts becomes open.
Tip #2: If your Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 loses the sound after playing a short time, the problem may be the 2N5551 transistor on the power supply. although transistor is not a guaranteed fix you might want to give it a try. This problem happened most often on the older, THX panels. try to spray a component cooler on the transistor if it brings the sound back, that is good test to verify that the problem is the 2n5551 transistor.
Tip #3: If your system stops working, but the power supply makes high frequency noises, check the three small 22 microFarad and three 47 microFarad 50-volt capacitors on the power supply. Over time, the heat from the power supply starts to dry them out, changing the frequency in the power supply. Usually it is only the capacitors closest to the left heat sink (one 47 microFarad and one of the two closest 22 microFarad capacitors). This is just one of a couple dozen possible sources of failure, be sure the replacement capacitor are rated 50 volts or higher, and observe correct polarity.
Tip #4: If even your control box does not light up, check the 5 amp slow-blow fuse where the power enters the panel. If it has blown, check also the yellow or blue disk next to it for any signs of charring. That disk is a metal-oxide varistor, designed to sacrifice itself in case of a power line voltage spike. You can buy a replacement MOV and fuse at Radio Shack or any other electronic store.
Tip #5: If your system does not power up, and there is no high frequency sound from the power supply powering up (but the control box still lights), or the power supply is only supplying 30 volts to the regulator board (instead of 55 volts enroute to the satellite amplifiers), then there is a chance that a tiny, 1/8 watt 205,000 ohm 1% tolerance precision resistor on the miniboard to the right of the right side heat sink on the power supply has changed value. 1% means it must measure between 203k and 207k ohms. The resistor is immediately below the small black transistor at the upper left corner of the miniboard on the power supply board.
Tip #6: If your control box lights, but there is no voltage going to the amplifier boards and no high frequency sound from the power supply board, look if either of the two MOSFETs on the right power supply board have shorted. If they fail, there are probably also damaged resistors, (e.g., 22-ohm and 392 ohm) that must be replaced at the same time. both resistors are located at the daughter board.
Tip #7: if A few bridge rectifiers have failed at the entry point of the power supply board. While rare, this is an easy fix.
Tip #8: If your panel produces a hum in the speakers, you can replace a set of 4 electrolytic capacitors on the main panel: two 100mfd 35v [start with these two--they are easiest to reach and are the usual causes of hum], and two 100mfd 16v.
Tip #9: This is harder to diagnose, but if you get 55V into the regulator board for the satellites and 85v in for the subwoofer channel, but the output voltage is 0 or far higher than a range of 7.2 -9.8 volts to the satellite amplifiers [0 or far higher than 10 - 11 volts to the subwoofer amplifier], then you may need a new HC1011 chip. There are two of these on the regulator board, one for the satellites, and one for the subwoofer amplifier.
Tip #10: If you still have subwoofer but no satellite sound, check the voltage going to the five satellite amplifier boards. If it is -.47 volt, there may be a 22 volt zener diode on the power supply that has failed. (It sits next to a hot heat sink, like transistor 2N5551 [Tip #2]. 2N5551 produces similar symptoms but usually works for a few seconds when still cold.