Klipsch Promedia 5.1's - Amp repair

Replacing R527, the two FR104 diodes, and the two caps nearby on the AC converter board fixed mine. I still have to add some cooling to it though.
 
The story always seems to be the same, Ghost. Elliott will respond in a matter of minutes sometimes, and others he either won't respond at all or he'll make promises he doesn't keep. I'd say your best bet would be to send him an email on a daily basis. That's what got me my amp (on AN amp) back. I guess the squeaky wheel gets the grease.

I haven't tested my unit yet, but I can see the work he did and it looks pretty solid. I don't think you have any reason to not trust him, but if you want your amp back sooner than later, don't be afraid to make some noise.
 
@phlux

Sir can you share the pictures of your amp that has been repaired by elliot? :) so we can identfy what kind of parts eliot used for the upgrade/repair :) thanks
 
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Just a reminder that you can call Klipsch and get your amp 'repaired' (they sent me a brand new one) for a comparable price to other options. Once they receive your old one you will get something functional back in a timely manner and it will have a warranty on it.

As long as you find some way to keep the replacement cool it should last a while. I'm up to 2.5 years on my replacement and haven't had any trouble.
 
ecmaster76 said:
Just a reminder that you can call Klipsch and get your amp 'repaired' (they sent me a brand new one) for a comparable price to other options. Once they receive your old one you will get something functional back in a timely manner and it will have a warranty on it.

As long as you find some way to keep the replacement cool it should last a while. I'm up to 2.5 years on my replacement and haven't had any trouble.
Click to expand...

And she was about to be dumped into the trash...

I've read that Klipsch no longer offers this (I'll call them sometime). How much did it cost you and how are you keeping it cool?
 
amdj said:
And she was about to be dumped into the trash...

I've read that Klipsch no longer offers this (I'll call them sometime). How much did it cost you and how are you keeping it cool?
Click to expand...

Here's the thing, they'll repair it, but what it's really needed is a component upgrade, and there's no guarantee that will happen. Using the same components and the same housing, you'll just get another failure later down the road.

And they'll definitely not add any active cooling.
 
amdj said:
And she was about to be dumped into the trash...

I've read that Klipsch no longer offers this (I'll call them sometime). How much did it cost you and how are you keeping it cool?
Click to expand...

Well, it has been a couple of years since I replaced mine, so things may have changed.

The cost varies by model (older ones are more expensive) but my 5.1 Ultra amp was $60 plus the cost of shipping the old one to them.

What you get back will a stock unit and yes, if you put it back in with no exra cooling it may fail just as quickly as the old one.

I would suggest building an actively cooled enclosure for the amp. You can get a couple of AC fans and solder their leads to the output of the main relay on the amp so they only run when the amp does. Use some bananna jacks to run wire from the encosure to the sub.

It might end up being a tad more expensive but you'll know the time and cost up front at least. The amps dont need an upgrade to work, they only need an upgrade to run at the high temps they currently reach. Even with these 'upgrades' you still have some points of failure. At the least I doubt anyone is building custom mil-spec BASH daughter boards.
 
ICo's Post regarding measuring J513 is misleading please disregard his post on measuring the j513 pin 4 and Pin 5.

the correct way to measure j513:

PIN 1: +RED PROBE to Pin 1: and -BLACK PROBE to Ground(PIN 2)
PIN 2: GROUND
PIN 3: +RED PROBE to Pin 3: and -BLACK PROBE to Ground(PIN 2) If your Using analog Multimeter Reverse your Probe on this one
PIN 4: +RED PROBE to Pin 4: and -BLACK PROBE to J6
PIN 5: +RED PROBE to Pin 5 and -Black PROBE to J4

you should get:

Pin 1:+15
Pin 2: Ground
Pin 3: -15
Pin 4: +22V
Pin 5: +32V

I ended up buying a MUR1620 because of ICo's Misleading info: Thanks to michael_A for the correction
 
My amp works completely, but the aluminum heatsink thing on my AC/DC converter board definitely has current running through it. I found this out the hard way making sure it wasn't getting too hot.

Is there anything I can do about this? Is it a major problem?
 
^
you mean your ac dc board is grounded.. well you could check the Rectifiers connected to the heatsinks theres a mica insulation between the rectifier and the heatsinks.
 
harry23lim said:
^
you mean your ac dc board is grounded.. well you could check the Rectifiers connected to the heatsinks theres a mica insulation between the rectifier and the heatsinks.
Click to expand...

My guess is that's the case. The insulation and goop around them looks a bit sloppy.

I'm not sure I'm too worried about it. It was clearly like this before and it was working and it's working now. The reason for failure last time was a resistor with the wrong resistance value.

I had my hand on it for a good few seconds before I noticed it was zapping me like a 9v battery. Taking it apart at this point would undo some of the cooling work I did.
 
Just a note: I got my Ultra 5.1 back from Elliot. After over a month and a half of no responses to my communications.....I was suddenly informed that my amp was being shipped back. I received it last week and checked it out....works as advertised!

I must say this: Elliot obviously knows what he is doing and delivered a working unit as promised. Could his communications have been better? Absolutely!

I hope, whatever causes his lack of communication once he receives the amp from a customer can be ironed out becasue he has a good nitch in a unique market......fixing Ultras.

Now, if I could get one of those fan kits to keep it cool......
 
Giving a notch to Henry here.

I sent my amp to Elliott to get fixed. Same thing that everyone experiences. No response to emails, nothing - until my amp was on its way back. I plugged in my unit almost immediately after getting it and bam. Nothing. Not working. I emailed Elliott asking him if he would fix it again and he said he would, but I had to take care of shipping. Both ways. So let's see, send the amp to Elliott again to have him not reply to emails, have no idea when I would get it back, and run the risk of having it in the same condition whenever he decides to send it back? Nope.

I found Henry's information on here and sent him my amp last week. Not only did he email me to tell me once the amp got to him and he had looked at it initially, I also got a detailed response from him about everything that he fixed and WHY.

He seemed to replace way more than Elliott, and for honestly, just a few bucks more. AND added cooling.

The choice is yours of course, but if I had known about Henry before I gave my money to Elliott, I would have NEVER sent a penny to Elliott.
 
breadman said:
I sent my amp to Elliott to get fixed. Same thing that everyone experiences. No response to emails, nothing - until my amp was on its way back.
Click to expand...

Par for the course...

breadman said:
I plugged in my unit almost immediately after getting it and bam. Nothing. Not working. I emailed Elliott asking him if he would fix it again and he said he would
Click to expand...

And how many emails did it take to get a response to that?
 
imyourzero said:
And how many emails did it take to get a response to that?
Click to expand...

First I emailed him. No response of course. I then called the number that was on the receipt. Left a voicemail. SURPRISE, no response of course. I then emailed him again a few days later to which he finally replied to within a few hours.

Waste of time and money dealing with Elliott.
 
Wohooo My klipsch is back to normal again! ^_^

after months of digging info's knowing this and that wher and what..

finally i did understand how this thing works and the points of failure and how to trouble shoot them.

owe everything to the makers of the Diagram, To this Thread and to Sir Henry! Thank you all Very much!

ill be glad to share some of my knowledge on this speakers.. if someone needs some help :)

anyways my amp problem was:

1.Relay: This is the first thing you need to trouble shoot once your system cuts in and out
2. Faulty fr104: if your missing some voltages check all the fr104 first cause this is known to fail due to heat exposure
3. Bash module: if your getting Some distortion from the sat or the sub this is the last thing you should check cause this is hard to replace and to diagnose.


i suggest upgrading every major capacitor to higher temperature ratings and resistors to higher wattage on the ac dc board
even adding a forced air cooling inside the sub to balance the heat circulating inside and to dissipate the heat from some of the high failure components on the ac dc board.
 
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Just thought I'd add a response here.. had my amp blow like many others here due to age and the "heat" generated by the amp. Did a net search for repair and found Henry at [email protected] ; I found he had many happy Klipsch 5.1 Ultra repair customers so I pulled the "board" and sent it off to him. He responded with this:

"The amplifier was dead because the first stage of the main power supply (AC-DC converter) had blown. Two IRF740 power transistors (MOSFETs) had blown when two small 1/8 watt resistors had burned. They had almost certainly stressed from heat after there was a short in the sub amplifier section. An output transistor (IRF530N MOSFET) had shorted and two voltage dividing 680 ohm resistors had burned. They would have burned if voltage was too high to the amp. Normally at low volume the amp receives 10.8 volts, but during loud passages will see up to 75 volts very briefly. An IRF530N power transistor in the sub regulator section had shorted. That was probably the cause of a chain reaction of failures. (Regulator fails, which burns out amplifier, which draws high current and burns out main power supply). I replaced 5 power transistors (including the other IRF530N in the regulator that worked as a pair with the shorted transistor) and the 4 burned resistors on the sub amp and power supply. Then I upgraded other parts that tend to fail:

I removed the daughterboard from the power supply and replaced 14 parts (at least two were required for repair). These boards will reach 185 degrees Fahrenheit when working in open air (and likely higher when inside an enclosed sub without a fan), and individual components rise above 190 degrees (measured on a THX panel on my bench).
--I upgraded two 470 ohm resistors at the bottom that sometimes char the daughterboard. The replacements are 1 watt flameproof and mounted them above the board for better airflow, using a different mounting point to avoid the area that chars.
I replaced
--four 1/8 watt 1% precision resistors with 1/4 watt (two of those had burned and triggered the power supply failure),
--a 205,000 ohm 1/8 watt 1% precision resistor that often heats and rises in value. Yours had risen to 213,000 ohms, 6% above tolerance. I've seen panels stop working when that resistor has continued to rise. The replacement is rated for 1/4 watt and will be under the cooling airflow of a fan.
--two capacitors (originals were getting brittle), and
--the 100,000 ohm resistor that is part of my cooling kit on eBay (one watt flameproof).
The board will now be under a cooling fan, so its temperature will be much lower. The resistor that rises to 190 degrees will operate at about 105 degrees.

On the power supply board I replaced 10 parts, including 6 electrolytic capacitors that can dry out over time (originals were 85 deg. Celsius; the replacements are rated to 105 degrees Celsius). I replaced and mounted for better airflow four other parts: a resistor (original is typically 1 or 2 watt; replacement is 3 watt), a fast recovery diode, a zener diode and transistor that can fail from heat.

On the main board I replaced two capacitors that are close to a couple of warm heat sinks. The capacitors can cause a hum when they fail. The originals were rated 85 degrees Celsius, and the new ones are rated for 105 degrees.
I regreased with silicone heat sink compound the small black heatsinks of three power transistors on the main board, and reinforced their connections with silicone adhesive (these heat sinks can fall off during shipping). I also reinforced the mounting of the main power relay, which can easily be damaged during shipping or installation.
I installed a 92mm 11dB Silenx fan with its own power supply that will switch on when the panel is turned on. The attached page shows how the transformer can be mounted.

Your panel is running while the fan's adhesive cures. The first few hours typically expose most instances of a (rare) defective replacement part. I'll provide a 90 day warranty. If a new component is not up to specification and does not fail immediately, it will show within the first month or two, so that should cover you to a point the panel will continue to give you good service."

$120, fast response/reply and shipping and I now have the most incredible speaker system built for a computer up and running (came with instructions for reinstalling the board as well with the upgrades).

Bottom line, if that Klipsch 5.1 Ultra has gone down, Henry can bring it back better than the original design.

Thanks Henry!
 
Our house mains were cycled several times in less than a minute by the power company which caused my Klipsch Promedia 5.1 Ultra's to begin to hum at 60 Hz. Thanks to you Sysjack and your excellent post, I was able to order the parts you listed and perform the repair. They sound great. Saved me some $$$. And you're a fellow RPI alum a that, thanks for helpin' a brother out!

Thank you very much!
 
I wanted to take a moment to share my recent exchanges with Elliott. I have been wringing my hands over whether or not my sub (an Ultra) had failed. Numerous times over the last couple years, I would get some very loud buzzing feedback, typically after a power failure at our house (unreliable service, though I live in Indianapolis). It would often go away after days or weeks, and most recently after months. Fail means fail, so it was confusing to hear full functionality return.

During this time, I sought out Elliott, seeing his services shared here and elsewhere. Also, having heard positive things about his selection of components and quality of repair. My amp no longer appears willing to return from the dark side, spewing very loud buzzing even at zero on the control pod. I finally pulled the amp and sent Elliott my payment. While waiting for him to provide a mailing address, I looked a little further into this forum and on ebay.

I uncovered the cooling fan upgrade available from stpeteshepard (not sure if this is also "Henry"?). I decided, for what it's worth, that for the extra $20 or so, this was a good insurance policy.

Elliott replied to me several times over the weekend. First, he recommended how to pack my amp, as I was concerned about littering the boards with styrofoam. Later, he provided the mailing address and instructions on what exactly to ship. Finally, he responded with a full refund of my PayPal payment after I requested it, informing him of my decision to pursue the fan solution. He then shared a couple photos of what appears to be a homemade cooling fan solution (two smaller fans, repurposed transformer) that failed.

I respect all of his responses, not to mention his patience as I waited months after contacting him before sending payment (he requested payment in March, which I ignored, thinking troubles were over). While I haven't followed through to the end, so far I'd say he was professional and helpful.

Unless you compare all results of the fan solution and all results of Elliott's repairs and customer service of both tech's, you don't have the full story. I know Elliott is employed elsewhere, but he has had many satisfied customers, to be sure. Only a few of them find their way to this forum.

My 2 cents, for what it's worth.
 
I just installed and tested my amp after Henry returned it. I threw up "Hellion" by Judas Priest, in homage to the killer Honda Odyssey minivan commercial. The loud buzz is gone. The loud pop from power up is gone. The quiet buzz is gone. <thud, thud> "Hello? Is this thing on?" Rest assured, it IS on!!

I didn't scour the boards to critique component installation. I could look back and forth between the schematics and the hardware to find all the functions and most of the components. I understood his repair report, which was thorough, and what was done. The fundamental issue is, does it work? I couldn't be happier that it does. His fan solution is sensible and I'm comfortable, even enthusiastic, to have it on my amp.

I'm looking forward to another 5-7 years or more of enjoyment out of this equipment.

Door to door time was 19 days.
 
I actually just randomly found this thread but my 5.1's have been "broken" for a while (a few months now) with a loud buzz and very low volume. I might try contacting this Henry guy ( [email protected] ?) and take that route. Even though I could probably try doing some of the repair myself, I'm most definitely an amateur compared to whatever he does.
 
So has everyone's experience with Henry been positive so far? I just recently got one of the Ultra sets off ebay (happened to be new-in-box, too), and already I'm starting to have some oddities. The temp of the sub is definitely a lot higher than I had expected, and for some reason, the sub's power is greatly reduced when set to 5.1 (setting the soundcard output to 4.1 or 2.1 seems to restore the bass).
 
kuhla said:
I actually just randomly found this thread but my 5.1's have been "broken" for a while (a few months now) with a loud buzz and very low volume. I might try contacting this Henry guy ( [email protected] ?) and take that route. Even though I could probably try doing some of the repair myself, I'm most definitely an amateur compared to whatever he does.
Click to expand...
DarkAngel_ZERO said:
So has everyone's experience with Henry been positive so far? I just recently got one of the Ultra sets off ebay (happened to be new-in-box, too), and already I'm starting to have some oddities. The temp of the sub is definitely a lot higher than I had expected, and for some reason, the sub's power is greatly reduced when set to 5.1 (setting the soundcard output to 4.1 or 2.1 seems to restore the bass).
Click to expand...
I am just posting here to recommend Henry aka ebayid: stpetesheperd aka [email protected] I found out about him on this board through a google search and went ahead and said fuck it and sent it to him. Anyway I just registered to post about my experience.

It's fixed, working wonderfully, he had it for less then a week and responded to all of my emails within 24 hours and it cost me $100. I can do nothing but highly recommend him. If your amp is broken shoot him off an email at the address above. I initially contacted him through the Ebay message system though.

he even sent me an itemized list of what he did

I removed the daughterboard from the power supply and replaced 11 components that were discolored from heat, brittle, and/or tend to fail. These boards will reach 185 degrees Fahrenheit when working in open air (and likely higher when inside an enclosed sub without a fan), and individual components rise above 190 degrees (measured on a THX panel on my bench).
--I upgraded two 470 ohm resistors at the bottom that sometimes char the daughterboard. The replacements are 1 or 2 watt and mounted above the board for better airflow, using a different mounting point to avoid the area that chars.
I replaced
--four 1/8 watt 1% precision resistors with 1/4 watt,
--a 205,000 ohm 1/8 watt 1% precision resistor that often heats and rises in value. Yours had risen to 226,000 ohms, 11% above tolerance. I've seen panels stop working when that resistor has continued to rise. The replacement is rated for 1/4 watt and will be under the cooling airflow of a fan.
--three capacitors, and
--the 100,000 ohm resistor that is part of my cooling kit on eBay (one watt flameproof).
The board will now be under a cooling fan, so its temperature will be much lower. The resistor that rises to 190 degrees will operate at about 105 degrees.

On the power supply board I replaced 10 parts, including 6 electrolytic capacitors that can dry out over time (originals were 85 deg. Celsius; the replacements are rated to 105 degrees Celsius). I replaced and mounted for better airflow four other parts: a resistor (original is typically 1 or 2 watt; replacement is 3 watt), a fast recovery diode, a zener diode and transistor that can fail from heat.

On the main board I replaced three capacitors that are close to a couple of warm heat sinks. The capacitors can cause a hum when they fail, as had happened with your panel. The originals were rated 85 degrees Celsius, and the new ones are rated for 105 degrees.
I regreased with silicone heat sink compound the small black heatsinks of three power transistors on the main board, and reinforced their connections with silicone adhesive (these heat sinks can fall off during shipping). I also reinforced the mounting of the main power relay, which can easily be damaged during shipping or installation, and soldered 4 pin connections between two boards that can cause intermittent problems.
I installed a 92mm 11dB Silenx fan with its own power supply that will switch on when the panel is turned on. The attached page shows how the transformer can be mounted.

Your panel is running while the fan's adhesive cures. The first few hours typically expose most instances of a (rare) defective replacement part. I'll provide a 90 day warranty. If a new component is not up to specification and does not fail immediately, it will show within the first month or two, so that should cover you to a point the panel will continue to give you good service.
Click to expand...

Go with Henry
 
Hey guys, does anyone know what can cause the amp to hiss? I thought it might have been a problem capacitor so I figured I'd just replaced all the capacitors on the AC/DC board but that apparently isn't the problem and the hiss is still there. The sats and subwoofer still works fine but I can't seem to get rid of the hiss. Any ideas?
 
quinocampa said:
I wanted to take a moment to share my recent exchanges with Elliott. I have been wringing my hands over whether or not my sub (an Ultra) had failed. Numerous times over the last couple years, I would get some very loud buzzing feedback, typically after a power failure at our house (unreliable service, though I live in Indianapolis). It would often go away after days or weeks, and most recently after months. Fail means fail, so it was confusing to hear full functionality return.

During this time, I sought out Elliott, seeing his services shared here and elsewhere. Also, having heard positive things about his selection of components and quality of repair. My amp no longer appears willing to return from the dark side, spewing very loud buzzing even at zero on the control pod. I finally pulled the amp and sent Elliott my payment. While waiting for him to provide a mailing address, I looked a little further into this forum and on ebay.

I uncovered the cooling fan upgrade available from stpeteshepard (not sure if this is also "Henry"?). I decided, for what it's worth, that for the extra $20 or so, this was a good insurance policy.

Elliott replied to me several times over the weekend. First, he recommended how to pack my amp, as I was concerned about littering the boards with styrofoam. Later, he provided the mailing address and instructions on what exactly to ship. Finally, he responded with a full refund of my PayPal payment after I requested it, informing him of my decision to pursue the fan solution. He then shared a couple photos of what appears to be a homemade cooling fan solution (two smaller fans, repurposed transformer) that failed.

I respect all of his responses, not to mention his patience as I waited months after contacting him before sending payment (he requested payment in March, which I ignored, thinking troubles were over). While I haven't followed through to the end, so far I'd say he was professional and helpful.

Unless you compare all results of the fan solution and all results of Elliott's repairs and customer service of both tech's, you don't have the full story. I know Elliott is employed elsewhere, but he has had many satisfied customers, to be sure. Only a few of them find their way to this forum.

My 2 cents, for what it's worth.
Click to expand...

I have experience with both and whole heartedly recommend Henry over Elliott. If you are thinking of going with Elliott, save your time, save your money, and give it to someone who truly cares about not only making sure you have a working product, but keeping you happy - Henry.
 
Hey random question. When setting up my speakers it asks if I want to set them to full range speakers? Should this be checked with Klipsch's? I assume it should because when I do it sounds better. Just wondering because it says for speakers that don't require a sub.
 
bigmouth said:
Hey guys, does anyone know what can cause the amp to hiss? I thought it might have been a problem capacitor so I figured I'd just replaced all the capacitors on the AC/DC board but that apparently isn't the problem and the hiss is still there. The sats and subwoofer still works fine but I can't seem to get rid of the hiss. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

The BASH chips do. They are the tall flat white ones.
 
I did replace the subwoofer BASH chip, perhaps I should also replace the BASH for the sats? Although, my sats work and don't hiss, just the amp does.
 
My last repair with Elliot and went kaboom after 1 day of use (posted earlier in this thread), I sent that back to Elliot for warranty, that was almost half year ago. He still is not replying my inquiries via PM in this form despite that he monitors PM here due to email problems. It's been 1 year since I initially sent it to him for repair, I only got it in my possession for 1 month and out of that only 1 day actually in working order.

From what some people's positive experience, I would say he is more hit and miss in his job and I would not recommend anyone to take this risk.

I am done with this Klipsch 5.1 now and moved on to a better HT setup. (Onkyo SR-508 + Pinnacle MB10000)
 
So is there any real fix to the PM Ultra 5.1? My set's been dead for about 2 years now and I honestly forgot all about it until now. My dad is an electronic technician so maybe i'll let him take a look at it....can any point us in a direction to start examining things? The system seems to "work", but there is a fairly loud humming/buzzing sound in the background that starts out faint and gets louder the longer you leave it on.

Thanks in advance!
 
My 5.1's have started hissing on and off from all the satellites whether a signal is present or not. Right now it comes and goes but It seems to be getting worse and I would like to fix it before it dies completely or never stops hissing again. They used to just hiss a little when first powered up and then the hiss would fade away with a little high pitched whining noise and be fine. Lately the hiss comes back though and gets really loud and annoying.
 
Hey guys.

Elliot, I was going to send you my amp to get it fixed, but I've had no end of financial issues since you sent me the order form. I wanted to apologize for the year-long delay.

I've changed plans of late and need some information if anyone could help.

I want to make a DC-DC transformer to replace the AC-DC rectifier/transformer and run my original 5.1 on batteries, but I don't know what DC voltages / amps I need to deliver. Could someone edit a pic of the amp showing where to connect what?

I already got a 12V DC DAC to install. After switching the amp to DC, I'll have a totally electrically isolated sound system hooked to my pc via optical.
 
I wish I had someone else fix my amp. STAY FAR AWAY FROM ELLIOT-TRONICS!!!!

My amp was shipped to Elliot via USPS Priority on July 26th, 2010. Like others, he promised me a 20 day turnaround. After sending several emails asking for updates well past the 20 day turnaround period, I finally got a response on Sept 1st that he would have it out that week.

Well guess what, he didn&#8217;t.

I then begged him for a response throughout September. I finally got a response on September 23rd that he had shipped it out on Monday.

I get the amp, finally. I hook it up. The sound is WORSE than when I sent it out. After 3 minutes of checking my speaker hookups and such, it suddenly went POP with a large puff of smoke and died.

I contact him, obviously upset over how long it took, having it worse than before, and now fully dead. He says to send it back and he&#8217;ll fix it and that he&#8217;s sorry. So I do as he won&#8217;t give a refund for &#8220;work already performed&#8221;. Yeah great work. He also promises a 5 DAY turnaround this time.

I send it back on Oct. 5th again via USPS Priority Mail. He has yet to respond after a ton of emails.

This guy is a scammer. I am out a total of around $145. Plus OODLEs of wasted time between July 26th and right now, November 11th, and don&#8217;t even have my amp back.

I could NEVER EVER recommend anyone do any kind of business with this scammer.

I have given him an ultimatum to either have my fully functioning amp sent to me, or my money refunded, by Dec 1st. If he doesn&#8217;t, I am going to be thrashing his name all over the internet, as well as pursuing legal action. It&#8217;s his choice, at this point, I don&#8217;t even care about the money anymore. I will make him regret ever screwing me over.
 
What you need to do is to file a police report. I guarantee something will happen.

He used to do good work, but a shop is only as good as their last customer. This would not be the first time something like this has happened. I've seen whole mom/pop type businesses start out great, happy customers, and then turn out sour/scamming a year or two later.

Anyway, we all know that Henry stands by his work and actually tells us what he fixes.
 
This guy took my Amp, took my money and I have not heard from him since! Boy I wish I would have gotten here sooner. Just how do we get this guy out of businesss? Can Klipsch do anything?
 
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Does anyone know what the specs are on the thermistor in the power supply? It is labelled TH501 on the AC/DC converter board. Mine is clearly cracked and damaged. I was also wondering if anyone has a list of components on the daughter board. I want to order the parts before I desolder and pull the daughter board so I can do it all at once.

Thanks,

Daniel
 
BranNutz said:
My 5.1's have started hissing on and off from all the satellites whether a signal is present or not. Right now it comes and goes but It seems to be getting worse and I would like to fix it before it dies completely or never stops hissing again. They used to just hiss a little when first powered up and then the hiss would fade away with a little high pitched whining noise and be fine. Lately the hiss comes back though and gets really loud and annoying.
Click to expand...
Off the top of my head I bet your one or both of your BASH daughterboards (the white PCBs) has a bad solder joint to the module its attached to. Try heating the solder joint until it just melts and then let it reharden.
 
Are you guys really so attached to those two cheap Klipsch 8" subs and subbox that you won't buy a receiver and a stand alone sub? You can even make the Klipsch subs work but it's some effort.

I went full receiver + subwoofer (KSW-12) and changed the center to an RCX-4
 
kent said:
Are you guys really so attached to those two cheap Klipsch 8" subs and subbox that you won't buy a receiver and a stand alone sub? You can even make the Klipsch subs work but it's some effort.

I went full receiver + subwoofer (KSW-12) and changed the center to an RCX-4
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For me, it isn't so much about being attached to the two 8" subs and sub box. It is about the $$$ involved. I bought this non-functioning but complete and in near mint condition Klipsch Promedia 5.1 Ultra Set for $60 locally!!! Now for a small amount of effort and money, I can make them functional again.

I can imagine others don't want to buy all of that equipment when they can potentially fix their non-functioning $300 - 400 set of speakers.

Daniel
 
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