Kasiyama Leapcat! er... True 120Hz OC

Bluesun311

2[H]4U
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Sep 21, 2013
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Got a Yamakasi Catleap "2B OC Extreme "in yesterday from ol' Green-Sum.

They shipped it UPS and double-boxed the sucker. I paid for perfect pixel, but it does have 1 stuck white "hot" pixel that turns colors depending on what the rest of the screen is doing. GreenSum offered to pay for return shipping but I like my unit fine and the pixel is near enough the bezel I really don't notice it, so I took a partial refund instead. At least she didn't tell me to pound sand since it's not technically a dead pixel.

So the monitor itself is fantastic. It has one common flaw of S-IPS which is a horizontal strip of slightly darker shading near the bottom. It's not noticeable unless scrolling on a white background and it doesn't bother me.

The coating is excellent. Glossy yes, but not to the point of reflective madness. I have a matte Qnix here to compare and it's sad to say but true: the pixels on the Qnix look big because of the crystaline effect its AG film causes. I thought the semi-gloss on the Qnix was good enough for me but it isn't--this is way better. You can see the individual pixels, instead of their aura. I don't think you could possibly capture the difference in a photograph but in person the Catleap is eye-popping in a way the matte Qnix just isn't--at all. Also, both the matte Qnix I've tested could not go above 100Hz without distorting the color in exactly the same spot, upper right center. The Catleap is crystal clear at 120Hz.

I wouldn't go so far as to say that Overclocking was "easy" with the Catleap, but right out of the box, with the supplied cable it goes to 120Hz using auto Nvidia CP timings and acts pretty normal until I start doing some testing. In the end, in order to get the Overclock completely stable with zero scanlines while also allowing my GTX 780 to idle as normal, I had to do a really wacky set of timings:
yama2_zpsff3d1825.png~original

These timings will NOT work on the Qnix, but they should on the Overlord. Totally stable. And I'm using a 6foot 28guage cable.

Things pretty badass and has me wondering if the Overlord can possibly match it.
The pixel response on these is faster than the Qnix already (enough so that you can tell by scrolling a webpage), add to that the OC difference and the 120Hz Catleap looks more like a 1440p FG2421 without Turbo240 on. Which is exactly what I wanted. Post calibration Contrast ratio was 850:1 and the colors out of the box were a bit off on red and blue. Green was close. Calibration results are better than the Qnix. Less banding and fewer gradients.

There's also a driver that allows the custom refresh rates to be used in fullscreen games with Vsync set so that fps = HZ. Pretty damn cool. See absolutely no need for native support at this time:
yama1_zps76b7ef47.png~original
 
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Extremely tempted! I'm a bit of a performance junkie though and not sure an IPS panel will be able to satisfy my gaming needs. I may prefer strobing for really really smooth motion still, decisions, decisions. Can't help being tempted by 120Hz OC garantee + pixel perfect policy though for that price, must resist! :p

I'm not sure about 1440p res though, my GTX 760 would struggle with newer games.
 
if you're using the display for gaming with an nvidia card, calibration means literally nothing, if not done through the OSD on the screen itself. nvidia cards cannot force the ICC profile in fullscreen applications, so unless you play all your games in "windowed fullscreen", the color profile will not be applied.

it's the main reason i sold my Qnix.
 
Do you notice "scan lines" when overclocking to 120Hz?

I will try these timings on my Overlord.
 
if you're using the display for gaming with an nvidia card, calibration means literally nothing, if not done through the OSD on the screen itself. nvidia cards cannot force the ICC profile in fullscreen applications, so unless you play all your games in "windowed fullscreen", the color profile will not be applied.

it's the main reason i sold my Qnix.

There are clever ways of enforcing those parts of the video card LUT affected by icc profiles during system wide full screen applications. Argyll and dispcal help and them there is CPKeeper, which locks the icc profile. Many modern applications, including many PC games, are actually color aware.

In any event the Qnix needs grayscale calibration more badly than the Yamakasi does though the colors on the qnix are more accurate oob. fortunately the colors are under saturated rather than too loud on the catleap.
 
Do you notice "scan lines" when overclocking to 120Hz?

I will try these timings on my Overlord.

I had scan lines that I spent several hours tweaking out. With these timings they are gone as far as I can tell. Actually I had a little room to play with and kept lowering the pixel clock as far as it could go without causing my video card to act funny. So I'm pretty sure I have no scan lines at 120hz. If you put the timing too low nvidia cards won't idle at low voltage anymore which is weird.
 
The lines kill the IQ for me at anything above 100Hz so I've been at 96Hz for a while now. Would love the full 120 though. I know there is a ToastyX app that delines on the desktop but no luck in games for me.

Hmm. CRU won't let me put Horizontal Front Porch at 0. All the other parameters work, I'll try it at 1.
 
The lines kill the IQ for me at anything above 100Hz so I've been at 96Hz for a while now. Would love the full 120 though. I know there is a ToastyX app that delines on the desktop but no luck in games for me.

Hmm. CRU won't let me put Horizontal Front Porch at 0. All the other parameters work, I'll try it at 1.

It's probably different for AMD only because you are forced to use CRU I guess? AMD didn't make a custom resolution tool yet?

One more thing since you have one: you ever have issues with it not wanting to display anything after waking from sleep or power off? I switched out the power cable to a traditional one with a grounding pin on it, and it causes issues for mine. Half the time it wouldn't come out of sleep until I turned it off and back on again. The Korean cable with the adapter on it doesn't have this issue... weirdness!

Edit: oh, I see you have a Tempest, the display is the same I think but the PCB is obviously different. I have heard that the Tempest PCBs are very very slightly weaker. That's sort of why I ordered 1. Want to see if that's true or not.
 
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Haha yes those timings definitely did not turn out well. Back to 96Hz for now until I figure out some proper timings for my AMD/Tempest setup. Although mine will do 120Hz, I am very sensitive to the scan lines and with all the custom timings I have tried from the Overlord forum, past about 105Hz the lines become noticeable. If only a deliner existed that worked in Fullscreen gaming mode!

edit: Also no, I have not had issues with the monitor not displaying on wake up as long as the drivers were patched correctly (I have had issues with the AMD video drivers themselves in that regard). The provided brick and cable have worked well for me so far.
 
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I just preordered a Glossy Tempest and from the sounds of it the YAMAKASI Catleap and the tempest may use the same panel/coating? Is this true? I'm a little scared with the glossy and hope that I'm making the right choice.

Also I plan on doing a complete system overhaul with DC and an AMD 290. Would I run into similar problems with overclocking the tempest with the 290 or is NukeDukem just not lucky?
 
true 120hz? try to run a frame skipping test, http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping

how often do you get screen stuttering? just because you can run it at 120hz doesnt mean it's stable. My qnix was overclockable to 120hz as well until i ran that test, the screen stutter like crazy. downclocked to 96hz and it got much better.
 
true 120hz? try to run a frame skipping test, http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping

how often do you get screen stuttering? just because you can run it at 120hz doesnt mean it's stable. My qnix was overclockable to 120hz as well until i ran that test, the screen stutter like crazy. downclocked to 96hz and it got much better.


It's stable. Been playing ffxiv at 120hz and there's no stuttering. Butter smooth. Very different than qnix, which is sitting on the floor right now. When I get the glossy tempest in ill set all 3 of them up next to each other for proof.

Yeah it's not dropping frames. The pcb on the Yamakasi is able to clock higher. If you look around the net you'll find that to be the general consensus. I'd guess there might be stuttering if you can't maintain 120FPS while at 120Hz, but yeah not sure, doesn't sound like the monitor is doing it, more like the system.

The Yamakasi isn't very reflective for being glossy, but it's definitely got a clear coat. Not much mirror effect at all, but a little.

One thing I do NOT like about the Yamakasi is that it flips out when you cut the power to it sometimes. It doesn't switch into standby on its own... but it has a standby mode. You have to press the button. Not a big deal, but if you don't hit the power button on the monitor after turning off your system the green LED (which isn't as annoying as it looks like it would be) will blink forever, and if you cut the power to the monitor while it's still on it doesn't want to show a signal next time depending on the timing... so it's just not auto power friendly (sweet--I solved this problem somehow... possibly by not installing the software that comes with my battery backup).
 
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Holy shit did I pick the wrong month to order one of these... Greensum dropped the price to 509.99 for the Perfect Pixel and 500 for the regular... Guess she knows the Rog Swift is incoming.
 
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Is the bezel as dark as the Qnix/X-Star/Overlord's? 510$ is a good price compared to 450$+ shipping for the Overlords for those who don't want to wait. All of the 1440p S-IPS panels have a dark, horizontal brightness strip near the bottom, including the ACD.
 
Is the bezel as dark as the Qnix/X-Star/Overlord's? 510$ is a good price compared to 450$+ shipping for the Overlords for those who don't want to wait. All of the 1440p S-IPS panels have a dark, horizontal brightness strip near the bottom, including the ACD.

The bezel seems to be made from the exact same plastic or has the same plastic finish color, although the bezel on the Catleap is a little thicker all around. They are absolute dust magnets. The glossy screen even attracts dust lol. I'm like running around with a damn duster.

I can't see the stuck pixel unless I'm thinking about it (it's permanent I'm pretty sure) it's stuck to where it takes on the color of whatever the middle of the screen is and it's pretty close to the bezel, and I probably would have gone a lot longer without noticing it if it werent dead center. It is the smallest looking pixel I have ever seen. I can only conclude that matte coatings make pixels look larger than they are--some sort of refraction thing going on.

Yup. I knew about the brightness strip only because of reading your review on the Crossover MDP. I asked greensum to try to find me one that doesn't have it. Kinda pissed at her for dropping the price after giving me a partial refund that doesn't get me anywhere near the new price. lmao

Edit: The Catleap sits much higher than the Qnix. The Catleap tilts easier, and it swivels nicely... but the stand overall is worse than the Qnix, which isn't saying much. The Catleap is pretty wobbly. My desk is like 500 pounds and I literally stand on it sometimes but if you don't have a solid base for the catleap to stand on you better put some accidental damage coverage on it, or change the stand out. It's too high for me and I'll be changing it out soon. The Qnix was fine.
 
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