Inverse: A Highly Versatile Steam-Box Design

those 70mm still is above the SFX height which is 63.5mm. That means you have to grab the PSU in more places than just back instead of it being held just by the top and the bottom of the case.
 
SaperPL said:
those 70mm still is above the SFX height which is 63.5mm. That means you have to grab the PSU in more places than just back instead of it being held just by the top and the bottom of the case.
Click to expand...

Oh, that was your main consideration. A simple way I thought of to deal with that is to add small L-shaped brackets to hold the PSU in place.
 
Yeah, I know, its just that you've got completely different ideology for your design. I prefer lowest amount of multipurpose parts as possible rather than multiple simple pieces welded to the frame.

Anyway I think you should reconsider your external design. There's no wow-factor to it and I believe attaching panels to the frame will make the edges come together uneven which wont look nice. Also the vent on the front is a bad idea for the looks and the loudness.
 
SaperPL said:
Yeah, I know, its just that you've got completely different ideology for your design. I prefer lowest amount of multipurpose parts as possible rather than multiple simple pieces welded to the frame.

Anyway I think you should reconsider your external design. There's no wow-factor to it and I believe attaching panels to the frame will make the edges come together uneven which wont look nice. Also the vent on the front is a bad idea for the looks and the loudness.
Click to expand...

I definitely agree about the exterior. Right now it just looks like a box lol.

You're like the 10th person to tell me about the vent on the front, so I'm definitely removing them. They're in the "Planned Feature Downgrade" section for both designs.

I'm trying to come up with a slick looking exterior for the next iteration. Getting rid of the front panel vents will help, but the main issue is probably attaching the top and bottom panels, as you've pointed out. The thing is, I definitely want to keep the feature of removable panels. I'll probably have to do some serious brainstorming to figure it out.
 
esplin2966 said:
I definitely agree about the exterior. Right now it just looks like a box lol.

You're like the 10th person to tell me about the vent on the front, so I'm definitely removing them. They're in the "Planned Feature Downgrade" section for both designs.

I'm trying to come up with a slick looking exterior for the next iteration. Getting rid of the front panel vents will help, but the main issue is probably attaching the top and bottom panels, as you've pointed out. The thing is, I definitely want to keep the feature of removable panels. I'll probably have to do some serious brainstorming to figure it out.
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Can't you have the edges be a part of the mainframe and have the panels screwed into it in the center?
I'm sorry for my lacking vocabulary, I can't quite describe what's in my mind.. hmmm... something like having the panels as plain sheets with four screw holes in them. and on the mainframe's corners there are corresponding screw holes going inwards. When you close the panels, it's like you're shutting an opening in the case, so the edges -of the mainframe- are still visible, and you screw the panel into the center of the case.

Edit:
Somewhat like this
Km3bS8Q.png
 
Last edited:
Black5Lion said:
Can't you have the edges be a part of the mainframe and have the panels screwed into it in the center?
I'm sorry for my lacking vocabulary, I can't quite describe what's in my mind.. hmmm... something like having the panels as plain sheets with four screw holes in them. and on the mainframe's corners there are corresponding screw holes going inwards. When you close the panels, it's like you're shutting an opening in the case, so the edges -of the mainframe- are still visible, and you screw the panel into the center of the case.

Edit:
Somewhat like this
Km3bS8Q.png
Click to expand...

I think the way you're describing is basically the way it's currently being done. What I'm trying to figure out is a way to attach panels such that there will be no screws visible on the top or bottom panel itself.
 
esplin2966 said:
I think the way you're describing is basically the way it's currently being done. What I'm trying to figure out is a way to attach panels such that there will be no screws visible on the top or bottom panel itself.
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Would it be possible to have the panels fold back behind the back and use two screws there like every regular Midi-tower does? You may want to look at the Kimera Industries Nova for inspiration on that part, Aibo did a really good job of implementing that with regular sheet metal bending techniques.
 
iFreilicht said:
Would it be possible to have the panels fold back behind the back and use two screws there like every regular Midi-tower does? You may want to look at the Kimera Industries Nova for inspiration on that part, Aibo did a really good job of implementing that with regular sheet metal bending techniques.
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Yeah, I think that is very doable and it's a way that I'm definitely considering.

Also thinking about magnets. Is there a reason why nobody's doing that? :confused:
 
Aibohphobia said:
Probably because it would have to be very strong magnets to securely hold the panels on and that would make people nervous.
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Yeah, that's true. I think I can come up with a way to do it without having to resort to very strong magnets. Working on it right now ;)
 
kierwest said:
all these homemade cases are a bunch of sharp boxes.
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Would you like a sphere instead? :p

About the magnets: I know there is a case that does actually use magnets, but I can't for the life of me remember the name or manufacturer. It's in the resort of steam-box cases, though.
 
iFreilicht said:
Would you like a sphere instead? :p

About the magnets: I know there is a case that does actually use magnets, but I can't for the life of me remember the name or manufacturer. It's in the resort of steam-box cases, though.
Click to expand...

Hmm, cool, so people have done it. I think if the top or bottom panel has like "side arms" which contains magnets, it can be attached quite stably. For example:

PMZPKKL.png


And then the skeleton/frame would have a groove where the magnets would go in. That way, it doesn't pop out the side, and you can't pull it up either.
 
Wow, you should have let us know you updated the OP with your prototype :)

Nothing like getting even a rough physical prototype to help guide the design process.

esplin2966 said:
Update 2/9/2015:


Just spent the entire weekend on Makeathon, which is a school sponsored event for you to build something. I took this opportunity to do an extremely rough prototype of the Minimal Steam Box skeleton using a water jet cutter. Here are my conclusions:
1) 1.5 mm aluminum is definitely thick enough.​
2) Cable management holes are very helpful. My Flex ATX PSU is non-modular, yet most of the cables, used or not, is hidden. However, I need to make some changes to it so that it is easier to attach zip ties/velcro ties.​
3) I allocated too much room for the GPU. This means I can definitely make the internal layout even more compact.​
4) Using a PCIe riser card is not a good idea. Better to use a PCIe riser cable.​

Pictures:

Raw Skeleton 1:
MPa02Vb.jpg


Raw Skeleton 2:
i9WxGO6.jpg


Assembled PC:
z2VoL5y.jpg


Assembled PC Top View:
hmbZGlx.jpg


Cable Management 1:
ahT7bRg.jpg


Cable Management 2:
RUVH5oN.jpg


Cable Management 3:
E5OMaDf.jpg


Click to expand...
 
Aibohphobia said:
Wow, you should have let us know you updated the OP with your prototype :)

Nothing like getting even a rough physical prototype to help guide the design process.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's super useful to rough prototype! I actually found a few places to save space and add components.

Next time, should I just reply to my own thread to bump the topic? I wasn't sure how to let people know lol.
 
esplin2966 said:
Yeah, it's super useful to rough prototype! I actually found a few places to save space and add components.

Next time, should I just reply to my own thread to bump the topic? I wasn't sure how to let people know lol.
Click to expand...

Either a heads up or just post the new pics would work. I usually just check the end of the thread for new posts.

Pretty awesome that you got to play around with a water jet cutter, they're really cool machines.

How did you do the bends?
 
Aibohphobia said:
Either a heads up or just post the new pics would work. I usually just check the end of the thread for new posts.

Pretty awesome that you got to play around with a water jet cutter, they're really cool machines.

How did you do the bends?
Click to expand...

Oh, I see. Yeah, it probably makes more sense to update both the OP and post pics in the thread lol.

Yeah, good thing I have a friend who's in the architecture school, or else it would've cost me more than 2x as much money.

I had wanted to use a press brake to bend the aluminum sheets, but the time slot we got for the water cutter is super late, so by the time we're done the metal shop was closed. Ended up using a right-angled surface, some clamps, and a hammer :cool:
 
Sorry for double-posting, just gonna post the pictures of the rough prototype here:

Basically, I spent last weekend on Makeathon, which is a school sponsored event for you to build something. I took this opportunity to do an extremely rough prototype of the Minimal Steam Box skeleton using a water jet cutter. Here are my conclusions:

1) 1.5 mm aluminum is definitely thick enough.​
2) Cable management holes are very helpful. My Flex ATX PSU is non-modular, yet most of the cables, used or not, is hidden. However, I need to make some changes to it so that it is easier to attach zip ties/velcro ties.​
3) I allocated too much room for the GPU. This means I can definitely make the internal layout even more compact.​
4) Using a PCIe riser card is not a good idea. Better to use a PCIe riser cable.​

Pictures:

Raw Skeleton 1:
MPa02Vb.jpg


Raw Skeleton 2:
i9WxGO6.jpg


Assembled PC:
z2VoL5y.jpg


Assembled PC Top View:
hmbZGlx.jpg


Cable Management 1:
ahT7bRg.jpg


Cable Management 2:
RUVH5oN.jpg


Cable Management 3:
E5OMaDf.jpg
 
Very nice to see it taking some kind of shape already :) Are you sure you can scrape off space for the GPU? You didn't install the panel mounted power cord in the pictures, and that needs to go somewhere.
Also the support for higher GPUs will be very important to some people.
 
iFreilicht said:
Very nice to see it taking some kind of shape already :) Are you sure you can scrape off space for the GPU? You didn't install the panel mounted power cord in the pictures, and that needs to go somewhere.
Also the support for higher GPUs will be very important to some people.
Click to expand...

Thanks man! Having a physical model actually helps with the design too, since when I'm stuck during CAD because I'm not sure about a dimension, I can just pick up the actual frame and measure it.

I think that the space between the GPU and the motherboard is kind of unnecessary. I can maybe take away 10mm there. It's not in the pictures, but I did throw in the panel-mounted power cord later. There's still plenty of space. The orientation (up or down) of the 90 deg power cord adapter is a bit problematic though, and that's what I'm working through right now.

When you say "higher GPU", are you talking about the length or the thickness? If you're talking about length, I think that will be a problem for the second design. The first design is just concerned with taking up as little volume as possible without sacrificing TOO much GPU compatibility. If you're talking about the thickness, I think it should be enough. The GPU I used (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N773JJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) has thickness of 43mm, and the thickest GPU I could find online is 46mm. From what I see in the rough prototype, there is another 5-10mm left.
 
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esplin2966 said:
Thanks man! Having a physical model actually helps with the design too, since when I'm stuck during CAD because I'm not sure about a dimension, I can just pick up the actual frame and measure it.

I think that the space between the GPU and the motherboard is kind of unnecessary. I can maybe take away 10mm there. It's not in the pictures, but I did throw in the panel-mounted power cord later. There's still plenty of space. The orientation (up or down) of the 90 deg power cord adapter is a bit problematic though, and that's what I'm working through right now.

When you say "higher GPU", are you talking about the length or the thickness? If you're talking about length, I think that will be a problem for the second design. The first design is just concerned with taking up as little volume as possible without sacrificing TOO much GPU compatibility. If you're talking about the thickness, I think it should be enough. The GPU I used (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N773JJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) has thickness of 43mm, and the thickest GPU I could find online is 46mm. From what I see in the rough prototype, there is another 5-10mm left.
Click to expand...

I see! Well if you wanted to get rid of those 10mm, you'd have to use a short, flexible riser, like the NCASE Steambox case will do. They decided on that for the exact same reason: it gives more flexibility with placement.

With higher, I mean wider. A lot of graphics cards with non-stock coolers have cooling systems that protrude over the side of the card. This is done to allow for bigger fans and beefier heatsinks, and quite a few people will want to use those.

Thickness is a concern, too, but with a flexible riser, you can use the maximum possible amount of space. I think it will be fine in that regard.
 
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iFreilicht said:
I see! Well if you wanted to get rid of those 10mm, you'd have to use a short, flexible riser, like the NCASE Steambox case will do. They decided on that for the exact same reason: it gives more flexibility with placement.

With higher, I mean wider. A lot of graphics cards with non-stock coolers have cooling systems that protrude over the side of the card. This is done to allow for bigger fans and beefier heatsinks, and quite a few people will want to use those.

Thickness is a concern, too, but with a flexible riser, you can use the maximum possible amount of space. I think it will be fine in that regard.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah, I see what you're saying. I allocated 140mm (~5.51") of width for the graphics card, do you think that's enough? Or maybe I should allocate 150mm?

I think using a flexible riser is a good idea, but it brings its own set of headaches too. The cables are either obnoxiously expensive (like $80 a piece), or requires shielding. I guess it's something I'll have to work through.
 
iFreilicht said:
He was talking about the Azza 103 (http://azzatek.com/csaz-103.html), not the 203.
They are a bit similar. TBH, there are not that many possible component configurations with Steambox-type cases.
Click to expand...

Oh, I see. The Azza 103 is actually kinda big (bigger than Silverstone RVZ01).

Yeah, when it comes to steambox configurations, it basically all comes down to the details of the internals. I'm on my third design iteration, and it still looks basically the same, just with more small features.
 
Update 2/25/2015:

I think it's time to focus on perfecting one design. Please take this very short 2-question survey so I can decide which design is the most promising:

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1jFeMd8KgLe4HQnfoJAJhqch_C5pkWXhSatIxyTq8ua4/viewform?usp=send_form

I have also recruited a designer to help me with the exterior looks of the PC case. The images in the survey is a start. Hopefully in the coming weeks, I will be able to create some highly-functional designs that look great as well! :)

Thanks!
 
rawrr said:
Is that wood (the renders in the survey)? Looks very nice.
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Thanks! Yeah, it's wood. I'm iterating with my designer and the manufacturer on a bunch of other exterior looks. Hopefully we can come up with something that looks nice and is cheap to produce.
 
esplin2966 said:
Thanks! Yeah, it's wood. I'm iterating with my designer and the manufacturer on a bunch of other exterior looks. Hopefully we can come up with something that looks nice and is cheap to produce.
Click to expand...

Even if you don't go with wood, which I think wouldn't quite fancy everyone, you could at least stick with the engraved lines that span the case as that looks excellent. That in itself is enough to give some flare to the case.

Maybe you could even use a different color on the lines to make them pop.
 
JoeOnePack said:
Even if you don't go with wood, which I think wouldn't quite fancy everyone, you could at least stick with the engraved lines that span the case as that looks excellent. That in itself is enough to give some flare to the case.

Maybe you could even use a different color on the lines to make them pop.
Click to expand...

I saw a few comments about not liking wood in the survey. Personally, I love it, but I guess that's not really important when you're designing something to be mass produced.

I do like the engraved lines, even on metal. My designer has a few samples like that that I think looks great. Different colors would be cool.

We're probably just gonna generate like 5 different designs and then have people rank them in the next survey.
 
I think decals would look great on the case and would appeal to the nit-picky audience, especially if theyre removable.

I would personally want design 2 because it gives me more room to house powerful components, but in black with stylish engravings of your choice.
 
fusionxr said:
I think decals would look great on the case and would appeal to the nit-picky audience, especially if theyre removable.

I would personally want design 2 because it gives me more room to house powerful components, but in black with stylish engravings of your choice.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help! Man, design 2 really won the survey by a landslide.
 
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