I took a picture 2020

leezard

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Blue Angels did a fly over of the Houston area today to show support for frontline workers. I've never shot a photo of a plane in flight before, let alone one that moves as fast as these guys do.

I took exactly on picture since I forgot to set my camera to burst mode.
IMG_6644 (2).JPG
 

Auer

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Blue Angels did a fly over of the Houston area today to show support for frontline workers. I've never shot a photo of a plane in flight before, let alone one that moves as fast as these guys do.

I took exactly on picture since I forgot to set my camera to burst mode.
View attachment 243468
Framing is spot on :)
 

leezard

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Posting my blue angels photo again after some post processing. I didn't do the editing, I'm still learning how to work with raw images. A photographer I met discussing the flyby on the Nextdoor app did the post processing. I was pretty happy with my original photo, he kicked it up a few notches.

blueangels2 jpg.jpg
 

MN Scout

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Thanks to the Corona Virus I got around to developing some film from my hike up to Ely's Peak in Duluth, MN back in 2018. I developed the Tri-X 400 film myself in Caffenol C-L. I used 3g/L KBr restrainer. 5 minutes of presoak with distilled water. 65 minutes of developing in Caffenol C-L using tap water. Agitated fully first minute. Then 3 inversions at the minute marks: 2,4,8,20,40. Stopped with water, Fixed for 5 minutes in Ilforth Rapid Fixer. 15 inversions top of every minute then rest for 45 seconds. Last, final wash in distilled water with 1/4tsp of Ilford Ilfotol so I wouldn't get streaks or drying spots. The negatives came out well. They weren't thin. The 3g/L was a bit of a mistake. I planned only to use 1.5g/L, but I was mixing this late at night, and forgot to half it when mixing up my 500ml of developer. I think I used a yellow filter on the last photo.

General trail:
2018 Elys Peak Hike Duluth MN by Adam Bavier (1 of 2).jpg

Scramble down this boulder field:
2018 Elys Peak Hike Duluth MN by Adam Bavier (2 of 2).jpg
 

Nebell

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I'm curious, is this allowed in the US? ;) (or in your country if you come from outside)
My friend was like "you'd get beaten up if you did that in Serbia" haha
The last car was very interested in what I'm doing, but they didn't say anything :LOL:
Taken in Sweden.
 

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MN Scout

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Film: Ilford HP5 400 Plus. Shot at ISO 266, since it is an unknown age. Guessed it was new back in 2010. Since it is BW film, I removed less than a full stop of sensitivity.
Camera: Pentax Spotmatic
Development in Caffenol C-L. Same routine as my previous post.
Scanned with CanoScan FS-4000 US, SCSI connection paired with Vuescan T-max 100 = 0.4. Contrasted and leveled in Lightroom.

I used the built-in meter. I notice that the meter has recently stopped working when set to 1/250th second. Maybe it just didn't like using that ISO combination. I've been trying yellow and red filters. So far I haven't been super impressed. I think it is because the camera meter is correcting. I need to try using my handheld exposure meter.
2020-05-19 - 23.jpg
2020-05-19 - 38.jpg


Jack-in-the-pulpit. Shot at F/5.6 using a 28mm lens. I took another shot at F/16 thinking that I needed the depth of field, since I was so close. The F/16 had more of the background in focus, but the plant was tough to see. This F/5.6 shot looks significantly better. Surprised. I'm learning that F/16 is not ideal sharpness when combined with 4000dpi scans. F/11 or less is better.
2020-05-19 - 11.jpg

3 frames combined in Photoshop:
2020-05-19 - 07 to 09 Panorama.jpg
 

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MN Scout

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2015-05-23 Family House - Taken on Seagull VC-FB paper.jpg



2020-05-24 - Pontoon and Garage - Taken with Holga Wide Pinhole Camera and on Seagull VC-FB pa...jpg


Photo of house take on Kodak 3A at U.S. aperture 128 and 23 seconds. Was partially shady and dim side of house.
Photo of Pontoon, and Garage taken with a Holga Wide Pinhole Camera (WPC) at aperture f/125 0.3mm at 23 seconds and it was almost full sun.

These were metered for ISO 4.

Notice: I have limited experience with this, so you are on your own if you follow this list of things I did and your prints turn out good or bad.

The paper was Oriental Seagull VC-FB II Glossy photo paper.

Developed with this Caffenol Recipe taken from http://tom-overton-images.weebly.com/caffenol.html

High Octane Caffenol Film/Print developer:
Water 8oz.
Washing Soda 3tsp
Instant Coffee 6tsp
Vitamin C 1tsp

House print developed first to a count of 400. Constant agitation - I kept lifting up a corner or side to keep the developer gently sloshing side to side. Long time because this is fiber based (FB) paper.

Then placed in container of water and swished to stop developing.

Then placed into Ilford Rapid fixer mixed 1:4 for 60 seconds. Had leftover from doing 35mm BW. If it was the 1:9 ratio fixer, then it needs 2 minutes. Edit: After reading this 7pg guide from Ilford at the following link, it looks like the shorter 1 minute fix using 1:4 ratio is better so that all the fixer can be removed in the washing step: http://www.film-and-darkroom-user.org.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=296

Then placed into container of water to wait till 2nd print goes through process.

Pontoon and garage print developed to a count of 420. etc.

Once both were in wash container they were placed under the running bathroom sink and rinsed for 60 minutes in slow water (The long length is due to this being Fiber paper. Resin Coated (RC) would be much shorter). The fixer needs to be thoroughly washed out.

After the 60 minutes they were placed in distilled water mixed with the Ilfotol. 500ml water and 1/4 tsp Ilfotol. The Ilfotol helps it dry evenly and quickly.

Then hung to dry.
20200524_074446.jpg

After dried ~10 hours. These were scanned on an Epson V600 as 48bit tiffs. Then brought into Photoshop. I went to the channels view, and CTRL+ 2 or 3 or 4 to see which channel was the sharpest. Red or Green usually. Selected all, then pasted onto a new layer. Next I added a few layers: Invert layer, then a Levels Layer. Level so that the black and white just didn't clip. Lastly in Photoshop I flattened the image. Then imported into Lightroom for final edits.

Camera that took the house picture. Kodak 3A circa 1910ish.
20200522_222510.jpg
 
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UltraTaco

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That is one extraordinary piece of equipment. Not many people would know how to operate one, let alone develop the film!!
 

MN Scout

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That is one extraordinary piece of equipment. Not many people would know how to operate one, let alone develop the film!!
Thanks, I'm simply happy I could use my Great Grandpa's camera. It is a well engineered camera. From the googling I did, the camera was near the top of the line. They later released some with a sharper lens and a few more shutterspeed options. This would be considered the pro camera, and Kodak made a family camera that "only" took 120 film (still big compared to our normal 35mm). Back then they did a lot of contact copying, where the film was laid right onto the photo-paper and exposed. No enlarging lenses needed. This would make a big size difference for the prints that one got back from the Kodak or the local photo developer.

I see myself hopefully taking a photo that I could use for a postcard. Contact print 10 copies and send them off to my friends. That is the utility in this camera. Use it for what it was meant for. The developing is a process, but thankfully straightforward and not overly difficult, and uses the same stuff from my BW 35mm developing. Took me longer to scan, edit and airbrush out a few of the worst dust particles than the whole developing process.
 
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Nebell

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Damn, now I want to go out and photograph macro. Been too much car photographing lately and I'm not that into cars.

And that 100 year old camera!
 

MN Scout

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Auer I really like that curving black background. Works well!

Macro is on my list as well. I bought a reverse mount ring, so that I could mount my 28-105 zoom backwards on my camera. Initial results look promising, but haven't got it on a tripod yet.

I happened into some Eastman Safety 2 35mm film (bought a film loader and came with undisclosed film). Appears that safety film started being released to consumers in mid 1930s based on my limited reading. Since this is labeled as "2" maybe this is from the 40s or 50s? I'd sure like to know. I developed it similarly as before, but I went back down to 0.85g/500ml of KBR restrainer which is what my default for Tmax100 film is. There is a lot of base fog, so I'd like to try again at the 1.5g/500ml that I've been using on the 400 speed film. My CanoScan FS4000US scanner is using an exposure of 16, when normally it only needs 1.5 to 2. The images that I took in the range of ISO 25 to 50 look good when scanned. This was a dark overcast day, so these were shot at F/2.5 at 1/30th of a second. I've seen worse for sure. One more test with more KBR restrainer, then I can see if this film is better than the film I was going to put in the loader, or if I need to sell it off to someone else. o_O

01.jpg 04.jpg
 
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UltraTaco

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That looks like from a movie, I cn almost picture 007 running away across the rooftops with guns blazing!!
 

Auer

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Messing around with Exposure X5, Non sub $150 editing software from the formerly known as Alienskin folks. Freestanding or as a PS plug-in.
Works well, Faster than LR and if you prefer the non catalog approach then its worth a look. I like it, and it's cheap.
https://exposure.software/

Corner Sky.jpg


Dry.jpg
 
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