Are these measurements taken while it's idling, or actually doing something? Try taking another measurement while it's doing something that would normally cause it to crash. Edit: It's really the 12V that we're interested in.
The six and eight pin connectors only provide 12V, but the system also provides 3.3V to the card through the slot. This is frequently used to power things like the BIOS chips and VRM control logic. On this card, it may also be used to power the transistor gates, and as I mentioned before, if the gate voltage is low, the transistors will run hot. If you look at the PCI-E pinout, you'll see that pin 8 on both sides of the connector is the +3.3V input. You'll need to follow the traces to somewhere you can probe with the card plugged in.
This may be a dumb question, but... have you tried this card in a different system, or a different card in the system in question?
Have you considered that maybe your reinstallation of the heatsinks actually isn't proper? Like, I know you said you're confident that it is, but is this the first time you've actually done this on a graphics card? Can you pull the heatsink off and post of photo of the top of the card and bottom of the heatsink with the thermal pads and grease still on there?Ok the 3.3V will be harder to check but I'll give it a try. Under load it drops to 11.95V, which is in reading variance to the 12V at idle I was measuring earlier.
I tested it in another system, and let me tell you intermittent problems are the worsts! It ran OCCT for 30 minutes, no problem, then Furmark (I know) for another 30 minutes without problem. Then I went back home, plugged the card in my system, played DOOM for an hour without problem. So the result of testing it in another PC is inconclusive. I will need to test it for a longer period of time but it was all I could do because of the curfew here.
I sadly don't have another card to put in my system.
As I see it, I need more time and hardware to test everything, cause all I did today didn't help.
Buying a new PSU isn't much of a problem. I was even debating it a couple weeks ago cause it's all what is missing to have another complete system I could use for tests.I know now isn't the best time to be in the market for hardware, but you should consider replacing it at your next upgrade, if not sooner.
Possible, but unlikely. What happens if you try to play games or run a benchmark now?So I got the new PSU today. Curiously enough, I get the same voltage at the card than with my previous PSU, and sadly, I got a crash again while casting a movie.
At this point I'm thinking it may be my 5600x, I will try to put the 3600 back on since I had no problem with this CPU.
I think it deserves it's own thread, but it also keep mine active so I don't mindIt's a thing, but maybe the thread should stop being derailed
I had no time to play game, but I did run TimeSpy Extreme, scored 100 points above the average of the same combo CPU / GPU. Maybe it would have crashed if I had let it run for multiple pass. I'll try to play some game tonight and see what happens.Possible, but unlikely. What happens if you try to play games or run a benchmark now?
This might be a dumb question, but have you tried using DDU and then installing the drivers again, or doing a clean Windows install?I played DOOM for over an hour tonight, no issue at all. But I found an interesting glitch. I loaded a 4K video on YouTube, and another one in VLC to work the Video Engine.
Since I have this card I'm using NVIDIA Inspector to downclock the card when idling. If I don't have this program running, the GPU clock will stay at base clock instead of falling down to 600MHz.
If I check the "Activate Video by VPU Usage" option, I loose all my screens. I recorded a video here
I click way to hard on the mouse so you can hear the click, and a fraction of a second later I loose or recover the screens.
I'm not sure if it's something else, but so far most of the time I had crash were while playing a video, or a video conference at work, all things that work the video engine and not the 3D Engine. Not sure if I'm on to something.
Also you can see the voltages reported by HWInfo at the end. They are the same than with a DMM. That's with the new RMx PSU. Curiously enough, when I tried it in another system, they never dipped under 11.98v
I did not. Reason is I run a dual boot: one for personal stuff, and the other is work only. Both of them started crashing after my failed water cooling attempt / CPU upgrade. I'd be very surprised if both Windows install started having the same problem at the same time, after playing with the hardware.This might be a dumb question, but have you tried using DDU and then installing the drivers again, or doing a clean Windows install?
Did you get these symptoms when you tested the card in the other system?
I don't think we're looking at the same picture ... 11.68, 11.69, 11.77 all in the screen shot. Your card is roasted dude.
You have fairly consistent crashing behavior that occurs in multiple software environments, which are presumably set up correctly. The card mostly works, so this likely isn't a power issue on the board, you've tested with multiple systems and power supplies, and that basically leaves the GPU die itself as the remaining potential problem source.I'm looking at the 8-pin since I don't have those "Misc" on mine and have no idea what they are for. What make you think it's roasted more precisely?
More specifically, Blue has done an excellent job at troubleshooting the issue and has shown the ability to reproduce it in a very exact fashion. I believe you've narrowed the issue down to exactly which part of the device failed. It's possible the games you are playing are displaying some encoded video during cut scenes or as part of the game assets which possibly is triggering your issue haphazardly while gaming. However, the way it fails in that very specific use case Blue showed in the video is what makes me think that a specific part of the card has failed. I bet you could find a use-case where the card would never show those issues and you might get use out of it but combine that with the temps and other ancillary issues that have been described in the thread I don't think there is much chance of saving it long term.You have fairly consistent crashing behavior that occurs in multiple software environments, which are presumably set up correctly. The card mostly works, so this likely isn't a power issue on the board, you've tested with multiple systems and power supplies, and that basically leaves the GPU die itself as the remaining potential problem source.
You should still try it on as clean a windows install as you can manage, to rule out the possibility that this really is a software problem, but I'm starting to agree with lobstar that the problem here is most likely a GPU failure.