I have a few questions for my first watercooling job

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SippieCup

Gawd
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Feb 11, 2007
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I am going to watercool my first computer soon and right now i am in the buying parts phase of it.

i own a p180 case and my system is in my sig, i was just hoping to get a little direction from veterans before getting any further.


My first question is this..

I want to know if I can mount the MCR120 internally where the tricool fans are. They seem like they are the same size, but I just wanted a little more verification before spending 200 dollars on a gamble.

if you can install them there, i was planning on getting two, and putting them where the rear ad upper tricool fans are.



This is the rest of my plan.

i am going to get a Koolance CPU-300-V10 cpu waterblock, does anyone have any experience with this cooler and how it performs in comparison to others? (if you recommend me a different one, just remember that i need an AM2 Socket cooler ^^)

as for the pump, i am looking at the swiftech MCP655, once again.. and criticism or experiences with this are welcome.

for the rest, i am still deciding on the piping to use (i think im going to go with 3/8 inch) and stuff


and yeah, im just looking for a little help, i kind of rushed through this because i need to go so sorry if this doesnt make sense, but ill edit this in abou 15 minutes... so you can understand it
 
want to know if I can mount the MCR120 internally where the tricool fans are. They seem like they are the same size, but I just wanted a little more verification before spending 200 dollars on a gamble.

It should fit, I've SEEN it fit.

if you can install them there, i was planning on getting two, and putting them where the rear ad upper tricool fans are.

I've also seen that done too

This is the rest of my plan.

i am going to get a Koolance CPU-300-V10 cpu waterblock, does anyone have any experience with this cooler and how it performs in comparison to others? (if you recommend me a different one, just remember that i need an AM2 Socket cooler ^^)

No. Stay away from Koolance. PERIOD. Get a Dtek Fuzion that comes with an AM2 bracket.

as for the pump, i am looking at the swiftech MCP655, once again.. and criticism or experiences with this are welcome.

Great pump. It used to be the staple of performance. There are better options out there, but they're totally not needed if you're going CPU only.

for the rest, i am still deciding on the piping to use (i think im going to go with 3/8 inch) and stuff

I'd pick up some 7/16" masterkleer tubing and run it on 1/2" barbs. It's smaller than the HUGE 1/2" ID stuff, and is my tubing of choice due to price and performance ratio.
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Replied in quote.
 
thanks for the information arcygenical, i'll look into the CPU cooler you recoomended and if i decide to cool my GPU, ill keep looking for a better pump.


i have a couple more question i just thought of.

as this is the first time i am watercooling a system, should i go with just a T-line? or should i get a reservoir? i hear that it is much harder to bleed out just a t-line than a reservoir so i was just wondering what other people think.

my other question is this.

are there any G80 GPU waterblocks that i can buy seperately from the card... i already have a 8800gtx, and thus... i dont need to buy a one tht comes witha waterblock
 
SippieCup said:
thanks for the information arcygenical, i'll look into the CPU cooler you recoomended and if i decide to cool my GPU, ill keep looking for a better pump.


i have a couple more question i just thought of.

as this is the first time i am watercooling a system, should i go with just a T-line? or should i get a reservoir? i hear that it is much harder to bleed out just a t-line than a reservoir so i was just wondering what other people think.
Click to expand...

Get a reservoir. As a first time user it'll simplify the bleed process for you making your life easier. Even now I prefer to use a reservoir over a T-line.

my other question is this.

are there any G80 GPU waterblocks that i can buy seperately from the card... i already have a 8800gtx, and thus... i dont need to buy a one tht comes witha waterblock
Click to expand...
[/quote]

For a first timer who doesn't mind spending a bit of money, EK 8800GTX Full Cover blocks will do you well. However, Swiftech MCW60's will grant you the best performance. The EK solution costs about 120$ for the card. The Swiftech MCW60 will cost you about 80$ for the block/ramsinks.

You can find all of the above stuff at either www.petrastechshop.com, www.jab-tech.com or www.performance-pcs.com.
 
I went with a t-line on my first water cooled build, then went with a res on the second build. If I could do it all over again I would have gone with a res from the start. The bleed time is reduced to minutes instead of hours (12-24+). Go with a res!
 
Yes, the bleed time for my Tline setup was about 24 full hours.

Not a big deal for me since I couldn't fit the Res.

Remember, OP, if you're going for a GPU block later (I recommend the EK GTS for overall look/performance and peace of mind... But the MCW60 will beat it by a few degrees) you'll need that 2nd MCR radiator more than you'll need an better pump. If you're planning on going GPU as well, might as well get the DDC2 pump with petra's modded top right now, to minimize expense later.
 
Arcygenical said:
Yes, the bleed time for my Tline setup was about 24 full hours.

Not a big deal for me since I couldn't fit the Res.

Remember, OP, if you're going for a GPU block later (I recommend the EK GTS for overall look/performance and peace of mind... But the MCW60 will beat it by a few degrees) you'll need that 2nd MCR radiator more than you'll need an better pump. If you're planning on going GPU as well, might as well get the DDC2 pump with petra's modded top right now, to minimize expense later.
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heh that was exactly what i was thinking,



ok, as of right now.. this is the setup i think i am going to go for.

D-Tek FuZion (CPU Cooler) $69.99
Link: http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=182&HS=1
reasoning for this part: Like Arcygenical said, its very good. I looked up reviews and all were pleased by its performance.


(2) MCR120 Liquid Cooler Radiator $34.99 x2
Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16835108085 (Getting Two of these)
Reason for this part: it will fit where the tricool fans are now, also very good ^^


Laing DDC w/ Petra top $99.95
Link: http://www.petrastechshop.com/laddcwpeddto.html
Reason for this part: good pump like everyone said, costs a little more... but i think it will be worth it


3 Feet of 7/16" masterkleer tubing $0.49 per foot
Link: http://www.petrastechshop.com/7id5odmagepu.html
Reason for this part: liquids cant flow through hopes and dreams.. and its a little tighter than 1/2 inch

EK-Multioption RES 200 $47.95
Link: http://www.jab-tech.com/EK-Multioption-RES-200-pr-3716.html
Reason: Rez to get the job done, i dont want a very hard first install.

EK High Performance 8800 GTX Series Acetal Water Block $125.00
Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=240&products_id=21307
reason: to cool my 8800GTX... the thing is blazing hot. also, this is a pretty good block from what i hear.



once again, thanks everyone. and i am still looking for more advice if you have some for me.


Edit: ok, i have another quick question. Anyone know how good the HW Labs Black Ice Pro 120mm Radiator is? im thinking of getting that rather than the mcr120, and using the Tricool fans i have with the black ice. is the MCR120 that much better? and if it is, is there a place i can get it WITHOUT the fans
 
Wow I didn't know the MCR120s came with fans. The Swiftech rads are superior to the HW lab rads.

Here is one without the fans:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcqpo12bl.html


I still don't think 2xMCR120s will cut it for cooling a CPU and a 8800GTX.

You need A LOT more tubing. Get at least 10ft, because you might mess up cutting or you might want to adjust/replace your loop quickly.
 
I think you'll need another single rad in there, or find away to go with a triple rad. I have the MCR320 cooling an X6800, 680i north bridge, and an 8800GTX and my temps are not great. If you will be doing no overclocking then you should be fine.
 
AuroraProject said:
I think you'll need another single rad in there, or find away to go with a triple rad. I have the MCR320 cooling an X6800, 680i north bridge, and an 8800GTX and my temps are not great. If you will be doing no overclocking then you should be fine.
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Actually what are you temps like? I have an MCR320 and I plan on cooling a quad-core (AMD...I got connections) and an 8800GTS.
 
AuroraProject said:
I think you'll need another single rad in there, or find away to go with a triple rad. I have the MCR320 cooling an X6800, 680i north bridge, and an 8800GTX and my temps are not great. If you will be doing no overclocking then you should be fine.
Click to expand...

I think AuroraProject's advice is dead on. You might have to consider an external solution via a Radbox to mount a larger radiator.
 
AuroraProject said:
I think you'll need another single rad in there, or find away to go with a triple rad. I have the MCR320 cooling an X6800, 680i north bridge, and an 8800GTX and my temps are not great. If you will be doing no overclocking then you should be fine.
Click to expand...

Ranker said:
I think AuroraProject's advice is dead on. You might have to consider an external solution via a Radbox to mount a larger radiator.
Click to expand...

Just, for the record if anyone cares...

I ran an 8800GTS, an E6300 @ 3.5ghz, and my P965 chipset block (500fsb and an overvolt) on a DOUBLE BIP and had acceptable temperatures... It was a double BIP Xflow too!!! Pretty much the worst possible BIP radiator you could own.

My temperatures were In the area of 58c on the CPU (note, it was with a TDX block... so subtract 4-5c from that if you go D-tek Fuzion) in an ambient temperature of 19c... pump at full. 4 yate loons (push pull) at 7v.

So, you'll cool acceptably well, but not exactly incredibly well!
 
Wow those numbers aren't too bad...pretty decent actually. The only exception is the load temp on the CPU, but you do have a big OC.
 
Yeah, I suppose they are ok, but for the vcore (1.45) I see many people with much better temps. If I go to 4ghz (which was my original goal for 24/7 use) the vcore is so high the temps get out of control quickly.
 
I have an Antec P182 and its the same case for the exception of having the fan speed controllers built into the back of the case and its a different color.

I can tell you from personal experience that the MCR 120QP Rad will NOT fit in the rear 120mm fan slot, it's too big by like 2cm.

I would suggest getting a radbox and the pass through kit from Swiftech and hang the rad externally off the back keeping the current rear 120mm Antec Tricool fan already in place and use a push/pull config with the addition fan that comes with the MCR 120QP.

And as Arcygenial mentioned, stay away from Koolance products, they are very prone to breaking down, and their blocks mixing with copper based blocks that causes a corrosion problem.
 
ohms said:
I have an Antec P182 and its the same case for the exception of having the fan speed controllers built into the back of the case and its a different color.

I can tell you from personal experience that the MCR 120QP Rad will NOT fit in the rear 120mm fan slot, it's too big by like 2cm.

I would suggest getting a radbox and the pass through kit from Swiftech and hang the rad externally off the back keeping the current rear 120mm Antec Tricool fan already in place and use a push/pull config with the addition fan that comes with the MCR 120QP.

And as Arcygenial mentioned, stay away from Koolance products, they are very prone to breaking down, and their blocks mixing with copper based blocks that causes a corrosion problem.
Click to expand...

actually, you also have a few additions for clean wiring as well in your case^^

the other thing i have a question about now is could i mod the case to get the mcr 120 rad mounting internally? or if the p180 has a slightly different configuration on the rear far than the p182 (it could be mounted higher because there isnt the fan controls?

that being said, thanks for the heads up on both the rad and the koolance products, its good to hear this from others rather than finding out on my own.

does anyone else have any experiences with mcr 120's being able to be mounted internally in a p180? or an alternative radiator that i could use instead?


once agin thanks everyone, you guys have really helped me out (and saved me some money) by suggesting and helping me part this out.
 
I have a P180B with a PA120.1 mounted in the front of it :D

leak_test.jpg


Another option is to remove the 3.5" drive, the bottom 5.25" drive and put a PA160 in the case.

There are a few other P180s around the froum that have been watercooled here is my thread.

And here is one with multiple BIPs
 
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