I got my LianLi PC-A05B ! it's Small!

yeah I've successfully contacted them a bunch of times. They've actually been pretty awesome in that regard. Got a few things that I lost or broke for free shipped to me straight from Taiwan.
 
haadij404 said:
yeah I've successfully contacted them a bunch of times. They've actually been pretty awesome in that regard. Got a few things that I lost or broke for free shipped to me straight from Taiwan.
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That's great, but I wonder why the two messages I sent them today from their own "Contact Us" on their website bounced as undeliverable?

Has anyone been given a date from any vendor that the T-LM14B-2 are expected to be re-stocked?
 
Spare-Flair said:
I would personally use the top lid as an additional intake than an exhaust, but that's me. Unfortunately, I can't even find one anymore. I should have bought it from the egg right away. Procrastination burns me as always in life.

I would have made the top a filtered intake blowing cool air in from the top and into the videocard. With the top as a filtered intake and the rear a filtered intake, it is about matched up with the front exhaust + PSU exhaust. If not, then at least there will be more air going in than out, therefore you have positive case pressure and therefore, you will keep dust out.
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I've perused this thread and seen everyone going back and forth on making the top fan an exhaust or intake. I'm not sure what to do - probably go exhaust since that's what I've done with every other case that's had a blowhole. The main gripe I've seen in posts is the pool of warm air stagnating above the video card. Seems exhausting it would be the best bet. There are vents on the back of the case, so if there was exhausting air above it should suck cool air in through those back vents.
 
aamsel said:
That's great, but I wonder why the two messages I sent them today from their own "Contact Us" on their website bounced as undeliverable?

Has anyone been given a date from any vendor that the T-LM14B-2 are expected to be re-stocked?
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aamsel said:
Has anyone ever been successful in getting a reply from Lian Li?
I have tried to contact them about when the T-LM14B-2 will be back in stock
with USA vendors but no reply.

Years ago, I had a PC-6 case, and tried a bunch of times to ask them a question,
and also never got a reply.
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I am in the same boat as aamsel -- tried to contact Lian-Li using the form on their website (as recently as couple of days ago), but ended up getting a note from the mailserver that the mailbox is full. haadij404, what did you use to contact Lian-Li?
 
Had no need to worry about the tri-fan AC Accelero on my GTX 260 fitting in the case. There's room to spare without hitting the hard drive cage. Can't believe the room in that case.
 
Hello, I'm new here and I'm wondering if anyone has used an NH-D14 with this case? and If so, how are you temps? (Ambient too)
 
Jeffredo said:
Had no need to worry about the tri-fan AC Accelero on my GTX 260 fitting in the case. There's room to spare without hitting the hard drive cage. Can't believe the room in that case.
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seriously this case is like Mary Poppins hat. Unbelievable how much you can fit in there.
 
I'm definitively planing to do my next build with PC-A05N, and asking the modder who will do modifications to the case to do the following :
  • Replace both the power button (and power LED) and reset button (and HDD led) with bungal vandal switches, both in red light/black button combination, power should be 19mm and and reset 16mm. Result should be something like http://www.abload.de/img/dsc_1039jwm.jpg
  • Paint all non-black parts black.
  • Make 2 blowholes at top for 12cm fans, with a mesh like original Lian Li meshes (i mean not the ones here in thread which are screwed on top of the case). Result should be something like http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/1157/img0092bm5.jpg
  • Make a hole for power cable at PSU plate on other side of the PSU plate for routing the power cable behind the PSU and route the cable behind the motherboard plate too.
  • Sleeve all front panel cables

Aditionally to those modifications, i will replace following case parts :
  • Buy a C02B bezel for the BR drive
  • Buy black Lian Li thumbscrews for PCI slots and for motherboard (TS-01B and TS-02B)
  • Buy black vented PCI covers (PI-01B)
  • I will remove the HDD tray because i won't have use for it

I'm unsure of :
  • Lian Li SD-01B Case Feet - did anyone used these ? How do they look in real life on this case ? Is it worth tho change the case feet at all ?
  • What should i do with my BR drive (it is standard grey on inside part like most of the BR/DVD drives).
  • How should i route the HDA front panel cable to the sound card as it will be at PCI-E x1 slot right above the CPU.

The case will contain following hardware :
  • EVGA P55 (in USA it is sold as EVGA P55 SLI).
  • Core i5 750 cooled by TRUE 120 Black (the 1st, original version)
  • 2x2GB Corsair Dominator DDR3-1600 CL8 (yes, i know, they are black/white/blue, but don't want to change a good working RAM just because of color)
  • Sapphire HD5870, initialy cooled by stock, later by Prolimatech MK-13
  • 128GB Patriot Torqx at 3,5" bay position
  • BR drive
  • red Enermax Magma's at new blowhole positions and also at original fan positions.
  • Black 15cm SATA cables
  • Seasonic X 750
  • X-Fi Titanium
  • Fans will be controled by T-Balancer bigNG

In final the color scheme of the case should be black with minor red (fans, stock 5870 cooler, power and HDD led in the buttons).

What are your suggestions to the "unsure of" category and suggestions to this build in general ?
 
On my A05N one of the Lian-Li feet would not work b/c a rivet interferes with its mounting. Also, I'd say those feet are to tall and therefore are a bit out of proportion with this case. Most likely, you'd want to replace the feet though as (unless it has changed very recently) the stock ones are made of hard plastic are not helping with dampening the vibrations. I used these rubber feet and they work great: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20971.

faugusztin said:
...
I'm unsure of :
  • Lian Li SD-01B Case Feet - did anyone used these ? How do they look in real life on this case ? Is it worth tho change the case feet at all ?
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cyberkost said:
On my A05N one of the Lian-Li feet would not work b/c a rivet interferes with its mounting. Also, I'd say those feet are to tall and therefore are a bit out of proportion with this case. Most likely, you'd want to replace the feet though as (unless it has changed very recently) the stock ones are made of hard plastic are not helping with dampening the vibrations. I used these rubber feet and they work great: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20971.
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I bought these feet, which I think will work ok:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=130_133&products_id=23215

However, until I can find a LM14B-2 top, all I have is the feet !!!

BTW, haadij404 sent me his Lian Li contact info, and I sent an email to him, but his reply consisted only of a list of who distributes and carries Lian Li in the USA. No useful information at this point.
 
@cyberkost & aamsel: neither of those two are available here, and sending them over the atlantic would be very, very expensive. For example the MNPC one is $9.99 for the feets and $11.04-$35.5 via USPS or $87.76-$138.64 via UPS :).

Edit: Just noticed Lian Li makes a smaller version of the feet, with 35mm diameter instead of 45mm, it is called SD-02 (and they have a stackable SD-03 too, but that is not important for me) :
http://www.lian-li.com.tw/v2/en/pro...index=364&cl_index=2&sc_index=30&ss_index=106
 
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Looking to do a dual blow hole. Before doing the cuts I wanted to make sure I could fit a radiator in the future if I decided to upgrade to water. Would this be the right template?

http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/picture_library/mnpctech_rad_template_24.5mm.pdf

If I used the other one I am not sure if I could just use 2 fans for now.

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I have the original PCA05B how many rivets do I need to remove? I can't recall seeing a good picture of the ones I need to drill out. What are folks using to keep the top panel in place afterward? Are there replacement rivets?

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Looking to go the hole saw route for the holes. I actually used a dremel for the first one and that was a pain.

Just out of curiosity, why hasn't anyone done fans on the top portion of the side panel? While that isn't quite as high as having blow holes it is close enough. Plus you don't have as much risk of something dripping into your case.

How important is it to balance airflow in and out of the case? Ambient temp, dust and noise are my biggest issues at this time. I was planning on putting a Scythe GT (1850rpm, hopefully a quiet 28db) on my Cogage TS heatsink. Then another high pressure/airflow fan for the main rear intake to provide the CPU with fresh air. My GPU doesn't have an external exhaust fan currently. The front fan is still in exhaust more and I have a side panel fan in exhaust mode. I was thinking of adding the top 2 blow holes together with the GT intake so that I can make all exhaust fans slow quiet ones. I could reverse the front fan to make it an intake.
 
I really like the look of this case. Can you tell which parts are not aluminum? I'm worried about rust. Specifically, are the rivets made out of aluminum? It looks like the fan grilles are steel but I can swap those out when they get rusty (I've got a stack of them I keep in a box with a bunch of silica gel). How about that rear fan mesh? Is it steel? Or easily removable?
 
It's steel, but easily removable. Actually, I think later editions are coming with traditional "concentric circles" grille (made of stainless steel). The rivets are aluminum.
 
sfsilicon said:
... I was thinking of adding the top 2 blow holes together with the GT intake so that I can make all exhaust fans slow quiet ones. I could reverse the front fan to make it an intake.
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This has been asked in this thread, and there appears to not be a concrete answer to it.
The best answer is to set it up each way and try it. When mine is setup, I am thinking about just installing the fans temporarily with a couple of tie-wraps each holding them on, and this way I can test out airflow choices.

The best answer to this point on the front fan is that almost nobody here has changed it to an intake. I don't know why it would not work, but almost no one has done it. Again, I am going to test and find out. With the tie-wraps, a change should take no time, since I plan to ditch the 3 1/2" bays.
 
Bought a GT. Still trying to figure out how many rivets to drill out for the top panel. Is it just the 2 in the front and 2 inthe back? What do you use to hold it in place afterwards.
 
faugusztin said:
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Houston, we have a problem :D. The bigger one (19mm) for power is available here in Europe in black/red, but the smaller one is more problem. The only options are orange, blue, yellow, green and white. I think the only good choice for HDD led on reset button from these is white, as it is the only one which "fits" to the red power LED.
 
sfsilicon said:
Bought a GT. Still trying to figure out how many rivets to drill out for the top panel. Is it just the 2 in the front and 2 inthe back? What do you use to hold it in place afterwards.
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Thanks to Nighted for his reply: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1513143

Nighted said:
Just the 2 in front and back. There are only 4 rivets that even touch the top panel, so you can't remove the wrong ones. You'll need a 1/8 drill bit to remove them. I've done it before, it's super easy.

Those templates seem to be drawn for different products (modding grills). That is why they differ. You should look at the products mentioned for each template to check exactly what fans are used.

If I were you, I'd be extremely careful when drilling those out because if you get a small piece of metal bridging two or more contacts on your PCBs, you'll fry something.
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Please, does anyone here have a Sketchup model of the PC-A05N case? (I have searched this thread, but the only other mention of Sketchup is by another member, who made a similar request for a model). Thanks in advance.

I am purchasing this case from the same company who will be doing the CNC work for me, therefore, I do not have an opportunity to check that the radiators will fit using my preferred template, unless I ask for the case to be shipped to me first, and then send it back for the CNC work, increasing the overall cost.
 
anyone have a spare usb , audio front connection from one of these cases? i am in need of one and will pay a little to have one for my case


hugs

Jen
 
I have one. Took it out and won't be using it again. Do you mean the one on the top of the case, under the flip lid? And the connector and its wires are white?
 
I have this case, and absolutely love it. It is a tad bit flimsy while loaded with the goodies, so it is not a very good LAN case in my opinion, but it looks phenomenal at my desk.

Fits an ATX board, three hard drives, a 750w PSU, two optical drives and a GTX280 with ease, and temperatures for me are in the 50's at idle and 60's during load. Quite a bargain in my eyes.
 
Mines all assembled now. With a lightly OC'd X4 955 (3.4 Ghz) cooled by a Xigmatek HDT-S1283 and an OC'd GTX 260 with an Arctic Cooling Accelero GTX Pro I'm getting 34C for the CPU an 37C for the GPU at idle, 43C / 53C while gaming. The 140mm fan on the optional top (T-LM14B-2) really helps. Have it set to exhaust.
 
kuyaglen said:
WTF!?!?!?!1111
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Well, what Wyluliraven must have meant is that the frame does not feel sturdy/stiff enough to lug around ... not that aluminum cases are designed for this ... but as someone who has 5 HDDs and an optical drive in this case (+ a solid/heavy PSU) I can confirm that there is a certain amount of bend and flex in the frame under such load.
 
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I'm not getting bend and flex on my case. I have a handle on the top of mine as well, it weighs a ton when you add water cooling. But I use brackets and washers for the bolt screws that hold down the handle and the case carries fine. Where are you holding the case when you're carrying it? I know you've probably seen my pic a million times but notice where I put the nuts and bolts on the top part of the image. There's two L-brackets on the bottom to help prevent the nuts from ripping through the top and to prevent flex, also there are two nuts under the LED wires on the top where there is the side rail (silver aluminum part) for the top cover. This makes the handle really sturdy and my case weighs close to 45 pounds!!!!

dscf0082v.jpg
 
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Cleaned up some of the wiring, drained the loop and refilled with just plain distilled water, no more of that Koolance dye+anti corrosion crap since it was separating and clogging up my water block adding about 4 to 5 degrees C. I have a feeling that everything Koolance makes is junk, and you can get a better product for the same money or spending a bit more (you get what you pay for). Nor do I think swiftech is the best either since... the next block I am buying is going to be a heat killer 3.0 for sure.

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Stupid dust :rolleyes:

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So by removing the top USB and audio ports I installed card reader with a USB port in the front. Real nice and it was only 15 bucks, the official Lian Li card reader is a rip off!!! Its like 45 bucks dude. :rolleyes:
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Ok so I drilled a new hole and moved one tube on the top to make the tubing more organized when you work INSIDE the case.

Under side of the top, I used plastic hose hooks to keep it on the top, over the video card (the tubes used to get in the way whenever I removed and installed the card.

dscf0172r.jpg

Side view with the radiator in the up position.

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So I removed the motherboard for like the 4th fucking time to do the last cuts in the back side of the motherboard. I think I did more work doing this than how much time its really saving me for the future, but whatever. This should let me access the underside of the motherboard for backplate installs for any of the heatsinks. CPU, northbridge, southbridge & mosfets. I really really wish Lian Li had put more thought into this case by pre cutting this part. I am all about functionality but not so much about looks.

So over the past two weeks I've been lugging it around to my friends house. The case is heavy considering its aluminum and short. The watercooling just does that and I'm not sure what else I can do about it. As I said before, there is no case flex when pulling on the handle.

My next plan is to:
1) drain the loop again to install 45 and 90 degree barb fittings for the reservoir cause the hoses are turning too tight and might kink.
2) Then I am buying an ATX cable crimper, so the 24-pin ATX motherboard header PSU cable is going to be a perfect length, and also to shorten the other PSU modular wires. Its going to be real clean.
3) I'm not sure when I'm getting the heatkiller 3.0 but it is the best waterblock out there.
4) The case side panels use a screw in the back to hold them in place, but I will buy a paddle latch from the same types of companies that manufactured the handle and friction hinges. So the side panels will be truly screw less. Paddle latch link: http://www.southco.com/class/64-paddle-latches-7393.html?ctid=37
I'm gonna go for the mini or small size paddle latch, they are low profile and they should look slick at the sides of the case.
 
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