I got my LianLi PC-A05B ! it's Small!

blivit4 said:
Unclip front panel. Take black magic marker and darken the 2 LEDs and the end of the plastic light pipes. Laser beams gone.
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Less permanent solution: take off the front panel and put masking tape over the lights, then put the front panel back on. Add more layers of tape til you get your desired darkness. :D
 
Magic marker will come off with a little rubbing alcohol. Most tapes will leave hard to remove glue residue if you ever take it off. Masking tape becomes hard, dried out and very hard to remove with time.
 
I just changed out the LED's for less intensely bright ones. Bought two of them at Microcenter for like $5.
 
blivit4 said:
Magic marker will come off with a little rubbing alcohol. Most tapes will leave hard to remove glue residue if you ever take it off. Masking tape becomes hard, dried out and very hard to remove with time.
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That's what goo gone is for (although alcohol also works somewhat). But I digress... :D
 
Hey guys, I was wondering where I should buy my window side panel from. I want a clear one. Where should I get it? I don't know which one to pick from a thin or a thick side panel. Any differences other than thickness?
 
Well here are some better pics of my build.

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Still not done as im still planning to ad another HD and some new GFX power.

-Xeon X3360 @ 3.7
-TRUE Black
-Rampage Formula
-Corsair Dominator 4GB PC2-8500
-XFX HD5750 512MB (temporary card)
-X-Fi Fatal1ty Pro
-X25-M G2 80GB
-30GB Vertex
-2x WD10EADS
-Sony Optiarc AD-7243S
-SeaSonic X-750
-4x Gentle Typhoon 1450RPM (Intakes and TRUE)
-2x Gentle Typhoon 1150RPM (Top Panel)

Comments are always welcome.
 
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You've got a fan filter on the front 120mm? So that one pulls air in? Have you reversed your PSU fan then??? Because normally that would blow hot air out only to pull it in again.
 
I will be using the following new components for the system:

PHASE I

* Lian Li PC-A05NB
* Corsair HX750W
* EVGA Classified X58 3X SLI Limited Edition (759)
* Intel Core i7 920 D0 Stepping
* Corsair Dominator GT 6GB DDR3 GT15000
* Intel SSD X25-M 80GB (2) RAID 0
* LG BD-R WH08LS20K


PHASE II

The watercooling components are as follows:

* Corsair H50
* More Coming Soon!

I am waiting on the LiLi which should get here today and the power supply and cooler should be shipped today. I should have some action by this weekend.
 
Terrific setup. Some comments:
* I like how Seasonic PSU has all the wires coming out of just the right place for the A05 case
* Why do you use grilles on the fans inside the case?
* Please let me know when you're throwing that "temporary" 5750 away ;)
Earzz said:
-Xeon X3360 @ 3.7
-TRUE Black
-Rampage Formula
-Corsair Dominator 4GB PC2-8500
-XFX HD5750 512MB (temporary card)
-X-Fi Fatal1ty Pro
-X25-M G2 80GB
-30GB Vertex
-2x WD10EADS
-Sony Optiarc AD-7243S
-SeaSonic X-750
-4x Gentle Typhoon 1450RPM (Intakes and TRUE)
-2x Gentle Typhoon 1150RPM (Top Panel)

Comments are always welcome.
Click to expand...
 
Spare-Flair said:
You've got a fan filter on the front 120mm? So that one pulls air in? Have you reversed your PSU fan then??? Because normally that would blow hot air out only to pull it in again.
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Good question and yes the front and back fans are both intakes.
The PSU fan isnt reversed it still pulls air out of the case, the plus side is is that the air what the PSU is using is cold already as it pulls it from the bottom of the case so im not to bothered that the intake is sucking up a bit of "warm" air.
Another thing is that the most of the time the fan of the PSU isnt working at all, tbh i never heard it spinning up, my new GFX card(s) should fix that problem in the future ;)

cyberkost said:
Terrific setup. Some comments:
* I like how Seasonic PSU has all the wires coming out of just the right place for the A05 case
* Why do you use grilles on the fans inside the case?
* Please let me know when you're throwing that "temporary" 5750 away ;)
Click to expand...

* I really love the X-Series PSU's and i really enjoyed this build with this PSU but i do think that the wires can be a bit short with a full tower case but im not to sure about that.
* Just for the looks, the Gentle Typhoons arent the nices looking fans around ;)
* I could do that but the card will end up in my moms PC.

Thanks for the comments.
 
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Hey guys, I picked up some tin shears and I was wondering if anyone had some tips on how to use it for cutting top top blowhole area and side panel for a window.

I am unable to get hole saws for making a blowhole. I guess if I do that radiator trick it should be able to make a blowhole. But how do i follow the template on mnpctech?

http://www.mnpctech.com/Fan_Grill_Templates.html

Which one do I pick for a dual fan blowtop? For all common grills
 
elo408 said:
Hey guys, I picked up some tin shears and I was wondering if anyone had some tips on how to use it for cutting top top blowhole area and side panel for a window.

I am unable to get hole saws for making a blowhole. I guess if I do that radiator trick it should be able to make a blowhole. But how do i follow the template on mnpctech?

http://www.mnpctech.com/Fan_Grill_Templates.html

Which one do I pick for a dual fan blowtop? For all common grills
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My templates I made there cover all common spacing for rads, and by extension fans in general. They can't get any more easy than that. Although, tin shears should be interesting... Good luck!
 
Which ones did you make? Any tips anyone for tin shears? It cuts through steel easily was wondering how I should start out?
 
elo408 said:
Which ones did you make? Any tips anyone for tin shears? It cuts through steel easily was wondering how I should start out?
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All those MNPCTech templates are my work. I'm Bill's designer. I made them to make things easier for the community as a whole.

I don't normally use tin snips for that kind of work.... I'm the holesaw kind of guy. ;) I'd imagine starting some holes with a drill first as pilots and start working your way through the hole. The templates can be printed out at size and laid out on the panel you want to mount the fans on to, and mark where you need to make your cuts; I tend to use an exacto knife for that. Double-check your work before committing to it. Check twice, cut once as we say.

Good luck!
 
Which template though? Any? Or is there a common one?

"starting some holes with a drill first as pilots and start working your way through the hole." How exactly do I do that you think? I am new to this but i want to try my best
 
Tin snips are not something I would recommend for blow holes. The shears will be okay in a straight line but a nightmare for round holes, even with the softness of aluminum. If you can't get a hole saw, you could try a dremel which is inexpensive.
 
Spare-Flair said:
Tin snips are not something I would recommend for blow holes. The shears will be okay in a straight line but a nightmare for round holes, even with the softness of aluminum. If you can't get a hole saw, you could try a dremel which is inexpensive.
Click to expand...

Dont you think I can use the template not cutting round holes? The one on mnpc tech?
 
I should follow the lines inside the square right? Which template should I do the 15mm or the 24.5 mm.

I still don't get how to get start to put the big scissor in to start cutting.

I was wondering if anyone can tell me if modding a lian li case was harder or easier compared to any other cases. What I mean is, if the lian li cases are harder to cut compared to maybe steel cases.
 
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has anyone used that type of tin snips to cut computer cases, you may mess up your case. I used a dremel, very easy to do.
 
Yeah, I still don't see why you don't use a dremel. They are often on sale for like $15-$20 during Christmas.

Aluminum is so soft, you might end up bending your case with tinsnips torquing the metal around.
 
Has anybody noticed any difference in noise by mounting their powersupply upside down so the big 120mm fan faces the bottom of the case? Mine right now is basically stuck right up to the harddrive rack and I have a drive in all three bays. I am worried it is choking the PSU air intake and thereby making it noisy.
 
Hey guys, Sorry If I sounded crazy. Since the post I bought a quality dremel for $30. What places have it for 15-20? Any tips I should Have for making cuts or tracing the pattern onto the top for the dual blowhole grill?

Thanks for all the tips guys! I didn't want to mess up my first mod!
 
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Spare-Flair said:
Has anybody noticed any difference in noise by mounting their powersupply upside down so the big 120mm fan faces the bottom of the case? Mine right now is basically stuck right up to the harddrive rack and I have a drive in all three bays. I am worried it is choking the PSU air intake and thereby making it noisy.
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Why was your psu flipped upwards anyway? Jw
 
I've done no mods to my case so far and I'm getting case temps around 110-125F @ idle. My CPU stays cool though @ around 80-90F.

Does this sound right? I'm not sure what I get while gaming.
 
PSU is the loudest thing in my system and it's really bugging me. I would consider flipping it but all the cables and wires are tied and managed in a job that took over 4 hours to do and it's not a modular supply.

I wish I could drill a hole in the back and just attach a fan to it because I think the heat from the HDD rack is getting sucked into the PSU and it's going full tilt to keep itself cool.



tx750.jpg
 
Spare-Flair said:
PSU is the loudest thing in my system and it's really bugging me. I would consider flipping it but all the cables and wires are tied and managed in a job that took over 4 hours to do and it's not a modular supply.

I wish I could drill a hole in the back and just attach a fan to it because I think the heat from the HDD rack is getting sucked into the PSU and it's going full tilt to keep itself cool.
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Just buy yourself a SeaSonic X-Serie.
I also owned a TX750 in my previous case and when my system was under load the PSU became pretty noisy, i was already able to do that with running LinX only.
Now with my X-750 i just cant get the fan to spin up, to bad i sold my X2 a bit to early so i cant stress it more for the moment.

BTW you did a nice you with your TX750 cable management, i know how many cables that damn thing has.
I also wish i had your motherboard, just the best 775 board on the planet.
 
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What do you consider to be the ideal p/s for this case? Currently I have
a Corsair HX520w will maybe use this for another build, so would want
equal or next step up. Single video card use only, seems to only be the hx or the Seasonic x
in the running. Which is best deal for the $ right now, if you were buying a p/s this morning, which would it be?

Also, any word on the T-LM14B-2 or do you know a likely
shipping date for this? Also, is it worth it vs a single 120mm or
140mm blowhole done properly on this case? I would be aircooling
with a Megehalems.
 
"Ideal" is not uniquely determined by just the case itself ... it may also change if the case is modded. I'm using Seasonic M12, which (imo) is very good fit for this case:
1) it has a little intake fan on the side of the modular connectors, which works well with the default back-to-front airflow
2) if flipped (big fan at the bottom), both modular and non-modular cables come out of the the side closer to the mobo, which helps with cable management.
That said, you can get OCZ ModStream 600W http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=10009333 for $50 AR and will probably do well.

On T-LM14B-2 -- I'm waiting for it to hit retail as well. If you're handy and have the tools you'll probably be able to save a few $$ and get a design you want with your own cut and grille. 140mm blowhole has about 35% more area than 120mm, so there may be some material difference, but it all depends on how close to the "edge" your video card operates (the top blowhole, in most applications, is really to help with video cooling, not the CPU).
 
cyberkost said:
On T-LM14B-2 -- I'm waiting for it to hit retail as well. If you're handy and have the tools you'll probably be able to save a few $$ and get a design you want with your own cut and grille. 140mm blowhole has about 35% more area than 120mm, so there may be some material difference, but it all depends on how close to the "edge" your video card operates (the top blowhole, in most applications, is really to help with video cooling, not the CPU).
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TBH i think a top panel wont be needed if you have a positive air pressure inside your case.
It will push the hot air trough the PCI slots and other vents easily, just use the front and back fan as a intake.
Im gonna rebuild a friends PC like this and im positive it will work.
 
I have my PS mounted with the fan on the bottom. Has anyone here considered cutting a hole underneath that for an intake?
 
In my experience with the chassis, it's just not needed at all. The PSU draws the air from within the case and out the front, and seems to work quite well.
 
Earzz said:
BTW you did a nice you with your TX750 cable management, i know how many cables that damn thing has.
I also wish i had your motherboard, just the best 775 board on the planet.
Click to expand...

Thanks, it wasn't easy! I've learned my lesson and I'm never going with a non-modular PSU again!

The EP45-UDP3 is amazing. I've never had a board with so many features and where overclocking was so easy. How far we've come since the ABIT BX6 Rev. 2
 
Regarding my PSU issue, I'm not going to be able to flip the PSU, it will basically mean taking my whole computer apart again and I don't want to go through that (as I'll probably break something knowing my history haha).

Do you guys think taking out the harddrive rack and cutting away the bottom piece of metal (the one directly over the PSU fan and maybe restricting airflow) would help?
 
How many HDDs do you have? Just empty the bottom slot in the rack (put it into 3.5" directly under 5.25" bays or into 5.25" using an adapter.
 
cyberkost said:
How many HDDs do you have? Just empty the bottom slot in the rack (put it into 3.5" directly under 5.25" bays or into 5.25" using an adapter.
Click to expand...

Neither of those is obviously an option if you saw the picture of my system.
tx750.jpg


Emptying the bottom slot would still leave that piece of metal covering most of the PSU fan. I have the two bottom drives turn off after 30 min now which keeps things cooler but I still think the bottom of the rack (and not the HDDs) is the main issue because it is stopping the fan from getting enough air forcing it to spin faster.

IIRC, you need a certain amount of clearance behind a fan or a big dead spot develops.
 
I see ... out of curiosity, how deep is that NZXT thing?
Also (understanding that you may balk at this), how about forgoing 3.5" FDD (your [H] license is going to be revoked if you admit having diskettes), using USB card reader (extra $5) and moving the HDD into now available externally accessible 3.5" bay?
 
cyberkost said:
I see ... out of curiosity, how deep is that NZXT thing?
Also (understanding that you may balk at this), how about forgoing 3.5" FDD (your [H] license is going to be revoked if you admit having diskettes), using USB card reader (extra $5) and moving the HDD into now available externally accessible 3.5" bay?
Click to expand...

I think you would be extra [H] to admit to still using 3.5" disks. In fact, I have a stack of 5 on my table right now. Nothing makes bios flashing of the motherboard, videocards, installing drivers, etc. easier than floppy disks since they are always natively supported even if USB devices aren't loaded. Plus I dabble in vintage computing and game emulation with console backup devices. I get a huge kick of the floppy drive sound and hanging out in DOS. Having a built in SD card reader is equally important for file transfers and photos, etc. I don't ever use an optical drive but constantly use the card reader. I would hate for it to be a portable USB one that I'd have to fumble for all the time.

It's funny because I gave an optical drive (and obviously I have) instead of giving up a floppy drive. The external USB powered optical drives are good enough for all my needs. In fact, I am thinking of buying an external HD DVD USB optical drive for the fun of it. I like wierd obsolete tech.

The NZXT thing is not deep at all but it takes up all the mounting points in both 5.25" bays so there is no way to mount anything else in there except through tape and velcro. I was going to velcro in some SSDs in there in the future.

Again, the harddrive is not really in the way. The problem is that 1cm below the harddrive there is an aluminum floor of the HDD rack and that is literally touching the fan grill of the PSU blocking the fan aside from a few circular holes from the factory. I'm thinking more and more that I will just dremel out the bottom panel since the HDDs sitting in the rack keep it straight anyway.
 
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