Time to relate my experience with this thing. Which really, is "these things", I'm on my third. Bought it at NCIX, someone was asking about that recently, I have no complaints with the 0DP coverage thing so far, except that if you don't have a monitor already (my last one died) and you want cross shipping, they do charge you for it. This is understandable, it's just unnerving having over $1k on your CC bill from items which you are counting on being refunded.
Monitor #1 is the best I've gotten so far. 1 pixel has 2 dead subs (white shows as red, green and blue as black). Horizontal banding in greys is there, but I could not see it without a solid grey screen and alternately closing each eye to make sure I wasn't imagining it. Brightness, at setting 0 and from 3 feet away, is very painful without extensive room lighting. Backlight bleed exists, but is not noticeable unless staring at a blank, black screen. The colours are beautiful. Calibrated with a cheapish i1 Display LT, the gamma curve is way better than my (uncalibrated) 10yo CRT, if that means anything. I can now make out the details on black suede sneakers in an image, which was impossible before.
Monitor #2 was DOA. Same issue a few people have reported lately: after turning it on the picture comes on, but then "goes away" after 2-3 seconds. Seems like the panel and backlight are going into power saving mode, but the rest of the components don't know it - the status LED stays blue, indicating power on + active input signal. Once the display goes out, all buttons including Power are unresponsive/lagged so I couldn't manoeuvre through the OSD fast enough to reset factory defaults. I called HP to see if there was a button combo that would do it. Lesson: Don't call HP without the IVR shortcut that was pasted in this thread. After directing myself to "other business products", I spoke to someone who transfered me to desktop PCs or something. I answered the ridiculous questions and gave the rep my serial number for ~15 minutes while he tried to look up the monitor, which I did specify was of the business/performance line, etc etc. Only after this period, did he look it up on the website, and stated that it was a business monitor and that he would transfer me. I hung up, found the shortcut and called back, got the right person, he didn't have any idea what I was asking for, and suggested I open a warranty ticket. This call took less than 2 minutes, total.
Monitor #3 has no dead pixels, and does work. Unfortunately the backlight bleeding is atrocious. I know this could be mostly corrected by opening the casing and inserting shielding, but obviously that would void the warranty. Which on a fairly expensive new purchase seems like a bad idea (especially if it up and fails, like in some of the posts here).
As for blur, I would say the severity of the issue is 2 to 5 out of ten, and coming straight from a CRT I'm much more aware of it than most users. I've been playing Serious Sam HD, and it looks effing gorgeous. You really only notice the blur when you spin around at top speed - on a CRT, your surroundings stay solid (unless your system can't keep up). On the ZR24W, they turn to mud. Again, this is only while you're turning quickly. The instant you slow or stop your mouse hand it improves or goes away. This doesn't bother me except when I spend time examining it, but I do have a cheap surround headset, so I don't have to search very hard by eye for the enemies. You're almost always focused on a fixed point (target reticule), since that's generally the only point through which you can manipulate the game world. I'd expect racing games to play OK as well since you're focusing on the road ahead of your car, but I'll have to try Need For Speed (on CDROM!) or GRID. The worst example of the blurring is actually in apps. Scrolling through ebooks, webpages or spreadsheets is (compared to a CRT) awful, in that you can not read the text as it goes by. This is easily remedied by using Page Down instead, but depending on how much/little you like your mouse, you might not be so forgiving.
Text: Is good. Vista's Cleartype does make some colour combinations appear a little off-colour (red edges), but overall it's night and day compared to my CRT's own bleed. The dot pitch is actually a little small - having excellent vision and coming from a CRT (.24?) I would want it tighter. Because of the current brightness of this display forcing me backwards, I actually have to get closer at times to see details in some text. "5" vs "6" is difficult to make out in some fonts. This may improve once I play around with the Cleartype options though.
Scaling: All three units that I've seen are from the first stock (mfg April 2010), so the scaling options should be the same, which is terrible. Of note, there is a feature listed in the manual which does not seem to exist in the current firmware (says it will prompt you to choose settings for new/unrecognized input formats). As everyone else has mentioned, most upper resolutions allow ONLY Overscan, and some of them not even that. Maybe they'll fix this as some point, but I've given up on it. With a PS3 set to 1080p it appears to simply stretch the video to 16:10 - from the screen resize option in Square's Thexder Neo demo, it does not appear there is any cropping. Not ideal, but not as bad as it could be.
VGA input: The VGA support is crap. I'm surprised no one has mentioned this before. Having no DP output, I was planning to use VGA for my PC and HDMI->DVI for the PS3. This would be a) Free and b) mean that the annoying network-like "qualities" of DP would be avoided. What I didn't expect, was that the monitor seems to have issues finding the proper clock timings with the included calibration image. It's easy to set them manually, however EVERY time the monitor changes resolutions or refresh rates, it runs the eye-spasm-inducing Auto-Adjust sequence (and plasters the "Auto-Adjust in Progress" message on your screen). Expect this 3-4 times during bootup, when loading/exiting games, etc. Finally, HP's included cable is what I would consider "short", which is to say "too short for my setup", so I could not use it. None of the VGA cables I had lying around would net me a 1920x1200 output. I think the best I could get was 1920x1080 on the desktop, and Serious Sam wouldn't let me go past 1360x768 even though Vista was set higher. On these lower resolutions with GPU centred timings (i.e. no scaling) there was very visible colour "bleed", but this could have been the cable, as I mentioned I couldn't get my PC close enough to the desk to try the provided one. Not that a difference of 2' should make much difference, assuming the same build quality. Anyway DVI shows no such artifacts.
The Overdrive feature, I have it turned on. I don't find it has any effect on still screens' PQ (it shouldn't anyway), but I do find it visibly sharpens up the mud a bit when whipping around an FPS.
Monitor #1 is the best I've gotten so far. 1 pixel has 2 dead subs (white shows as red, green and blue as black). Horizontal banding in greys is there, but I could not see it without a solid grey screen and alternately closing each eye to make sure I wasn't imagining it. Brightness, at setting 0 and from 3 feet away, is very painful without extensive room lighting. Backlight bleed exists, but is not noticeable unless staring at a blank, black screen. The colours are beautiful. Calibrated with a cheapish i1 Display LT, the gamma curve is way better than my (uncalibrated) 10yo CRT, if that means anything. I can now make out the details on black suede sneakers in an image, which was impossible before.
Monitor #2 was DOA. Same issue a few people have reported lately: after turning it on the picture comes on, but then "goes away" after 2-3 seconds. Seems like the panel and backlight are going into power saving mode, but the rest of the components don't know it - the status LED stays blue, indicating power on + active input signal. Once the display goes out, all buttons including Power are unresponsive/lagged so I couldn't manoeuvre through the OSD fast enough to reset factory defaults. I called HP to see if there was a button combo that would do it. Lesson: Don't call HP without the IVR shortcut that was pasted in this thread. After directing myself to "other business products", I spoke to someone who transfered me to desktop PCs or something. I answered the ridiculous questions and gave the rep my serial number for ~15 minutes while he tried to look up the monitor, which I did specify was of the business/performance line, etc etc. Only after this period, did he look it up on the website, and stated that it was a business monitor and that he would transfer me. I hung up, found the shortcut and called back, got the right person, he didn't have any idea what I was asking for, and suggested I open a warranty ticket. This call took less than 2 minutes, total.
Monitor #3 has no dead pixels, and does work. Unfortunately the backlight bleeding is atrocious. I know this could be mostly corrected by opening the casing and inserting shielding, but obviously that would void the warranty. Which on a fairly expensive new purchase seems like a bad idea (especially if it up and fails, like in some of the posts here).
As for blur, I would say the severity of the issue is 2 to 5 out of ten, and coming straight from a CRT I'm much more aware of it than most users. I've been playing Serious Sam HD, and it looks effing gorgeous. You really only notice the blur when you spin around at top speed - on a CRT, your surroundings stay solid (unless your system can't keep up). On the ZR24W, they turn to mud. Again, this is only while you're turning quickly. The instant you slow or stop your mouse hand it improves or goes away. This doesn't bother me except when I spend time examining it, but I do have a cheap surround headset, so I don't have to search very hard by eye for the enemies. You're almost always focused on a fixed point (target reticule), since that's generally the only point through which you can manipulate the game world. I'd expect racing games to play OK as well since you're focusing on the road ahead of your car, but I'll have to try Need For Speed (on CDROM!) or GRID. The worst example of the blurring is actually in apps. Scrolling through ebooks, webpages or spreadsheets is (compared to a CRT) awful, in that you can not read the text as it goes by. This is easily remedied by using Page Down instead, but depending on how much/little you like your mouse, you might not be so forgiving.
Text: Is good. Vista's Cleartype does make some colour combinations appear a little off-colour (red edges), but overall it's night and day compared to my CRT's own bleed. The dot pitch is actually a little small - having excellent vision and coming from a CRT (.24?) I would want it tighter. Because of the current brightness of this display forcing me backwards, I actually have to get closer at times to see details in some text. "5" vs "6" is difficult to make out in some fonts. This may improve once I play around with the Cleartype options though.
Scaling: All three units that I've seen are from the first stock (mfg April 2010), so the scaling options should be the same, which is terrible. Of note, there is a feature listed in the manual which does not seem to exist in the current firmware (says it will prompt you to choose settings for new/unrecognized input formats). As everyone else has mentioned, most upper resolutions allow ONLY Overscan, and some of them not even that. Maybe they'll fix this as some point, but I've given up on it. With a PS3 set to 1080p it appears to simply stretch the video to 16:10 - from the screen resize option in Square's Thexder Neo demo, it does not appear there is any cropping. Not ideal, but not as bad as it could be.
VGA input: The VGA support is crap. I'm surprised no one has mentioned this before. Having no DP output, I was planning to use VGA for my PC and HDMI->DVI for the PS3. This would be a) Free and b) mean that the annoying network-like "qualities" of DP would be avoided. What I didn't expect, was that the monitor seems to have issues finding the proper clock timings with the included calibration image. It's easy to set them manually, however EVERY time the monitor changes resolutions or refresh rates, it runs the eye-spasm-inducing Auto-Adjust sequence (and plasters the "Auto-Adjust in Progress" message on your screen). Expect this 3-4 times during bootup, when loading/exiting games, etc. Finally, HP's included cable is what I would consider "short", which is to say "too short for my setup", so I could not use it. None of the VGA cables I had lying around would net me a 1920x1200 output. I think the best I could get was 1920x1080 on the desktop, and Serious Sam wouldn't let me go past 1360x768 even though Vista was set higher. On these lower resolutions with GPU centred timings (i.e. no scaling) there was very visible colour "bleed", but this could have been the cable, as I mentioned I couldn't get my PC close enough to the desk to try the provided one. Not that a difference of 2' should make much difference, assuming the same build quality. Anyway DVI shows no such artifacts.
The Overdrive feature, I have it turned on. I don't find it has any effect on still screens' PQ (it shouldn't anyway), but I do find it visibly sharpens up the mud a bit when whipping around an FPS.