HP ZR24w

Hi, I was wondering if anybody has tried this monitor with a PS3 or Xbox 360, does it have 1:1 scaling?

Also wondering if anyone has tried a PS3 on it. I'm considering the ZR24w at the moment but I would need to be able to run PS3 on it.
 
It would be great to see pictures of this monitor from different angles (to see how good the viewing angles are and how bad the glare is). Could someone who own this monitor take some?
 
more pictures? seriously?

should really consider looking back in this thread instead of sitting around asking for more.

how about thanking the people who actually threw down the cash to provide initial reviews for all the scaredy cats?
 
Yeah we've already told you guys how good this monitor is. And there should be an option in the menu for keeping the resolution at 1080.
 
lol, then it wouldn't be a 16:10 monitor. You would still get the black bars, it's a physical dimension thing, not a resolution problem.
 
I realize that it's in the nature of internet/tech nerds to scrutinize every single potential flaw/failure in a device - I've been known to be one of them. But at some point you just have to let go and enjoy what's in front of you. If you want a flawless production monitor, then you have options available to you that will cost you $1,000+ so get it. We're talking about a $425 monitor here that appears to be generally excellent in most regards.

I'm placing my order first thing Monday with HP. I thank those that have taken the time to give us the first impressions. I'm excited to get mine.
 
I realize that it's in the nature of internet/tech nerds to scrutinize every single potential flaw/failure in a device - I've been known to be one of them. But at some point you just have to let go and enjoy what's in front of you. If you want a flawless production monitor, then you have options available to you that will cost you $1,000+ so get it. We're talking about a $425 monitor here that appears to be generally excellent in most regards.

I'm placing my order first thing Monday with HP. I thank those that have taken the time to give us the first impressions. I'm excited to get mine.

I couldn't agree more. I understand those who want to be reassured by multiple reviews all reaching the same glowing conclusion. But, many times you're just not going to get that.

Here's the breakdown out of what those of us who have the monitor have been saying

1) It has really good response time for an non TN LCD monitor period. (Personally, I think if you are a super hardcore competitive FPS player, a CRT is still the best route)

2) The "glowing" only is appearent if you sit really really close to the monitor when there is a dark background present. A viewing distance of 2.5 to 3ft seems to remedy this.

3) HP seems to suspect a bad batch got out the door. But, their tech support seems to be very willing to accommodate those who have issues.

4) It's native sRGB. Need i say more?

With those things in mind, if you read the spec sheet and know the technology behind the monitors, I don't see how anyone could chalk these things up as anything other than a solid winner.

If at this point you're still on the fence, you have two options. You can either succumb to your fears and not buy anything until you are 100% certain that it is so perfect that you would go so far as to appeal the supreme court for the right to marry a monitor, or you can choose to man up and risk the chance that you won't like it and be forced to sell it on ePay or FS/FT.

As a footnote, as an owner of this monitor, the last thing I have to test is if input lag changes between the DVI and DP inputs. I'll be getting my Eyefinity-6 cards this week, so I will know the answer soon enough.
 
Last edited:
Already bought it, not on the fence. Just wondering if it will try to stretch a 1080p signal to 1200 or if it supports 1:1 scaling with black bars. Sounds like it does. Thanks and have a nice day. Sorry if my question bothered you. lol.
 
Haha. No, good question. AFAIK, this monitor does not have 1:1 scaling. So, you're left to having the drivers do it for you. Obviously, no good if you plan to hook this to a device (Xbox, DirecTV DVR) that doesn't do this scaling for you.
 
It has aspect scaling, which is what most people really want. Aspect scaling 1080p on a 1920x1200 monitor should be the same as 1:1 mapping as long as there is no overscan, which is also an option according to the manual.
 
I'd personally like to see some xbox 360 shots if anyone minds. I know there are lots of basic photos but I've already spent 500+ on U2410 and I want to make sure these are quality enough.
 
It's almost impossible to convey the experience of using a monitor by posting pics of it in use. About the only use for monitor pics is for viewing angles, and even with that the camera has a tendency to exaggerate flaws compared to what we perceive.

I'll add my voice to the growing list of happy ZR24W users. I feel there isn't a better monitor at this pricepoint and size. It's an amazing value with its combination of size, quality, and price. I have one at work, and if I weren't saving up for a big upcoming expense I'd seriously consider buying one for the home office even though I already have a Planar 26" IPS that I'm happy with. Just think: for the price of my 26" LCD (which is considered a relative bargain at its pricepoint) I could almost buy 2 of the HP 24". That's amazing. Given the choice between those 2 options I'd definitely opt for the latter.
 
can someone please post a picture of this monitor playing youtube videos? the quality at which it plays youtube videos is really important to me.
 
Here's a quick list of the latest, popular IPS Monitors in the price range of $200-$550 (Current Pricing):

  • Dell 2209wa (1680x1050, 16:10) 22" $220 - $309 (Have to contact Dell Business Rep for lower price, Dell Direct)
  • HP ZR22w (1920x1080, 16:9) 21.5" $270 - $290 (Initial Promo Pricing through Cost Central & HP Direct)
  • Nec EA231WMI (1920x1080, 16:9) 23" $280 - $315 (Newegg, Amazon)
  • HP ZR24w (1920x1200, 16:10) 24" $400 - $425 (Initial Promo Pricing through Cost Central & HP Direct)
  • Dell U2410 (1920x1200, 16:10) 24" $500 - $539 (Dell Direct)

So far the ZR24w is priced very nicely.
 
Has anyone tried to calibrate this monitor to sRGB standard? You know, 6500K, 2.2 gamma and 120-140cdm luminance which I prefer? I would really like to hear what kind of contrast ratio and black depth this monitor gets with those settings, to see if I can replace my LP2475w with it without making contrast any worse. Standard gamut is really luring.


Also does this monitor suffer from occasional inverse ghosting like LP2475w does? Like moving white mouse cursor on skyblue background? Its insta-blacktrail in LP2475w, and unfortunately also translates to trailing clouds in games.
 
Last edited:
Has anyone tried to calibrate this monitor to sRGB standard? You know, 6500K, 2.2 gamma and 120-140cdm luminance which I prefer? I would really like to hear what kind of contrast ratio and black depth this monitor gets with those settings, to see if I can replace my LP2475w with it without making contrast any worse. Standard gamut is really luring.


Also does this monitor suffer from occasional inverse ghosting like LP2475w does? Like moving white mouse cursor on skyblue background? Its insta-blacktrail in LP2475w, and unfortunately also translates to trailing clouds in games.

Is it ok to use a calibrator which what you can't set a luminance target with? I'm talking about Spyder 3 Pro..
Is it fine to just set 6500k and 2.2 gamma as target with the calibrating software? How important is the luminance part you were talking about? (120-140cdm)
Isn't luminance basically just brightness... can i just set the "luminance" by adjusting the brightness?
Sry i'm a newbie on such stuff, i just ordered a ZR24w and a Spyder 3 Pro.
 
Is it ok to use a calibrator which what you can't set a luminance target with? I'm talking about Spyder 3 Pro..
Is it fine to just set 6500k and 2.2 gamma as target with the calibrating software? How important is the luminance part you were talking about? (120-140cdm)
Isn't luminance basically just brightness... can i just set the "luminance" by adjusting the brightness?
Sry i'm a newbie on such stuff, i just ordered a ZR24w and a Spyder 3 Pro.

You can calibrate to any maximum luminance level - yes, it is basically brightness. The idea though is to have the luminance fall to the right spot consistently across the various gray levels - that's what the gamma curve represents.
 
Is it ok to use a calibrator which what you can't set a luminance target with? I'm talking about Spyder 3 Pro..
Is it fine to just set 6500k and 2.2 gamma as target with the calibrating software? How important is the luminance part you were talking about? (120-140cdm)
Isn't luminance basically just brightness... can i just set the "luminance" by adjusting the brightness?
Sry i'm a newbie on such stuff, i just ordered a ZR24w and a Spyder 3 Pro.


Not sure what you exactly mean, but to me accurate luminance, meaning brightness is quite important because thats the brightness I use. And what I am interested in what kind of black depth and contrast ratio ZR24w has in that brightness. Either 120 or 140 because those are the values I use, depending if my room has lights on or not.

Also 6500K color temperature is important because when changing RGB values of your monitor, it also changes the brightness of your monitor by adjusting the backlight, much like brightness control, resulting in different black depth and contrast ratio numbers.

Doesn't Spyder software have a feature where you can adjust brightness and color temperature on fly using your monitors brightness and RGB sliders, or are all adjustments done in graphics card in color calibration process, temperature and all? If latter, then the comparison is useless because it takes monitors backlight controlling out of the equation, and also often results even worse contrast ratio than hardware adjustments.
 
Last edited:
Balckbird,
If you use the ZR for photography work, the recommended luminance setting for any LCD is either 120cd/m^2 or 90cd/m^2 depending on who you talk to. The goal here is to match your LCD to what you print from a color and brightness standpoint. If that is not your goal, most people do use a setting of 120 or even higher for general purposes.

The Spyder 3 Pro, will allow you to set the levels that you want I am almost certain as my Spyder 2 pro allows me to. I believe that is what the pro" gets you. Choose 6500 and 2.2 gamma but then INPUT your luminance (bright) and dark settings. .5 for dark. It will ask you if you would rather do it by sight based on test patterns....this is useless with an LCD and I would not recommend going this route.

Then, play with your monitors hard adjustments to get it close as possible. It will allow you to make a setting and then "refresh" just that one reading (color/luminance/blackpoint). Choose "custom" for the LCD color and adjust the red/green/and blue manually. Do not just set sRGB and let the software do it all. If you do the adjustments on the monitor, the Spyder software will not have to adjust your video card too much more by writing to the LUT to get it closer to calibrated target values. I find this important because with windows....there are so many ways that you lose your LUT settings in your card....waking up from sleep, the "allow this program to run" pop up, etc. etc...It is nice if the monitor is pretty close at the default settings. If you do lose it, you can run "profile choose" and just switch back and forth between 2 profiles, and it will refresh.

And I would turn off the ambient lighting option. I find it gives inconsistent results but you can try it.

If you look a few pages back you will see my settings for just the calibration you are doing. Might be a starting point for you but based on your video card and driver software, there will be differences.

And MaZa, yes, this did calibrate to 6500/2.2 gamma, 90 lum/.5 black piont. It has the range to do it. As I said earlier, my only comment is that it looks a little less "saturated" than my prior calibrated monitor. However that one could not reach the bright-to-dark dynamic range this one can.

Hope this helps,
BJB
 
Last edited:
B
And MaZa, yes, this did calibrate to 6500/2.2 gamma, 90 lum/.5 black piont. It has the range to do it. As I said earlier, my only comment is that it looks a little less "saturated" than my prior calibrated monitor. However that one could not reach the bright-to-dark dynamic range this one can.

Hope this helps,
BJB


Oh, I didnt doubt this couldnt get to D65/2.2 gamma etc...What I am mostly wondering that after setting your monitors RGB sliders properly and calibrating, what the black depth and contrast ratio will be?

For example, my LP2475w in 120cdm2 brighness black depth is 0.17cdm2 and contrast ratio around 1:650, which are average results. I dont want my next monitor to be any worse, preferably better (lower black depth number in same brightness the better).
 
Balckbird,
If you use the ZR for photography work, the recommended luminance setting for any LCD is either 120cd/m^2 or 90cd/m^2 depending on who you talk to. The goal here is to match your LCD to what you print from a color and brightness standpoint. If that is not your goal, most people do use a setting of 120 or even higher for general purposes.

The Spyder 3 Pro, will allow you to set the levels that you want I am almost certain as my Spyder 2 pro allows me to. I believe that is what the pro" gets you. Choose 6500 and 2.2 gamma but then INPUT your luminance (bright) and dark settings. .5 for dark. It will ask you if you would rather do it by sight based on test patterns....this is useless with an LCD and I would not recommend going this route.

Then, play with your monitors hard adjustments to get it close as possible. It will allow you to make a setting and then "refresh" just that one reading (color/luminance/blackpoint). Choose "custom" for the LCD color and adjust the red/green/and blue manually. Do not just set sRGB and let the software do it all. If you do the adjustments on the monitor, the Spyder software will not have to adjust your video card too much more by writing to the LUT to get it closer to calibrated target values. I find this important because with windows....there are so many ways that you lose your LUT settings in your card....waking up from sleep, the "allow this program to run" pop up, etc. etc...It is nice if the monitor is pretty close at the default settings. If you do lose it, you can run "profile choose" and just switch back and forth between 2 profiles, and it will refresh.

And I would turn off the ambient lighting option. I find it gives inconsistent results but you can try it.

If you look a few pages back you will see my settings for just the calibration you are doing. Might be a starting point for you but based on your video card and driver software, there will be differences.

And MaZa, yes, this did calibrate to 6500/2.2 gamma, 90 lum/.5 black piont. It has the range to do it. As I said earlier, my only comment is that it looks a little less "saturated" than my prior calibrated monitor. However that one could not reach the bright-to-dark dynamic range this one can.

Hope this helps,
BJB
Hm..
Here is a pic of the Pro software: http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/content_images/spyder3pro/cal_check.jpg
And here is a pic of the Elite software: http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/content_images/spyder3elite/recal-option.gif
Seems to me that you can't set white and black luminance with Pro?

And in this review: http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/reviews/profiling/spyder3pro.html
They say this: "Note that with the Spyder3Pro, you do not get the option to set an absolute level. This is perfectly good enough for many users, but if you need absolute settings then consider the Spyder3Elite."

So maybe i should cancel my Spyder 3 Pro order and order a Elite instead?
Btw i'm mainly just a gamer.

I don't know if i dare to adjust the RGB sliders.. ;P
Because i'm a newbie on this stuff, maybe i should just do the software do it..

Which of these checkboxes do i have to check when i'm calibrating the ZR24w?: http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/content_images/spyder3pro/controls.jpg
Brightness and Contrast, right..?
 
Nice summary there, Rock&Roll.

In case people are still looking for pics, here are links to a bunch of pics that I took many pages back on this thread. Chris_n also took some pics many pages ago, a little earlier than mine. (Maybe someone else can provide some off-angle shots that I know I never took, nor do I remember any posted; though you can see some unintentional ones of mine in the input lag test pics below.)

From my prior posts:

These colors were chosen from Windows 7 Ultimate's screen background colors. So these are "solid color as background" shots with a camera - that definitely has a few dead pixels, as you can see in this first shot, especially in the areas off the monitor:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1035512196#post1035512196

My digital camera is an old 5 megapixel Canon, so these are not the greatest. However, they are still 2 MB each, just so you know. (I also did not take the best pics and added a "non-existent on the monitor screen door" effect because of the angle I held the camera.)
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1035510524#post1035510524

Input Lag test ToastyX guided me through - HP ZR24w vs. Dell CRT:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1035528374#post1035528374
Look after this last post for ToastyX's and others' analysis of the HP's very low input lag.
 
Last edited:
Blackbird,
Very bizarre. I can only verify that Spyder 2 pro version 2.3.5 on Vista 64 allows you to set both. However it looks like they totally revamped the software for 3. I would want to be able to set luminance and black point myself but that is your call.
BJB
 
But why is luminance that important if it's basically just brightness.. i can change brightness directly on the monitor.
Do i set the brightness to factory default (eye burning) before i calibrate? And after the calibration i set the brightness to a comfortable level.
Or do i first set the brightness to a comfortable level and then calibrate?
 
Blackbird said:
But why is luminance that important if it's basically just brightness.. i can change brightness directly on the monitor.
Do i set the brightness to factory default (eye burning) before i calibrate? And after the calibration i set the brightness to a comfortable level.
Or do i first set the brightness to a comfortable level and then calibrate?
Set the brightness to a comfortable level first, then wait 30 minutes to allow the brightness to stabilize.

Calibrating to a specific luminance is not that important. It's just done for consistency. It's useful if you have several monitors and want them all to be the same brightness.
 
moreawesomethanU said:
under SMARTBUY ZR24W LCD MONITOR...

Is it the same thing? The part# is the same but wuts smartbuy??
HP has always done this. SmartBuy is just the part number for promo pricing. It's the same monitor.
 
Set the brightness to a comfortable level first, then wait 30 minutes to allow the brightness to stabilize.

Calibrating to a specific luminance is not that important. It's just done for consistency. It's useful if you have several monitors and want them all to be the same brightness.

Ah ok, thanks.
 
I just ordered one from this German shop: http://www.xitra24.de. I live in Belgium but the monitor is much more expensive here, just like in the Netherlands. Local prices went up by about 50€ in the last 3 days (see http://tweakers.net/pricewatch/251783/hp-zr24w.html).

The delivery date is not available yet, but I'll let you know if there are any problems with the VM633AT#ABB panel when I receive it.
I'm from Belgium as well, was also contemplating to ordering one from xitra24. I'm very curious on your experiences Pietr.
 
LOL I'm still on the fence with either the ZR24w or the EA231WMI. If they were close to price I would pick HP, but the NEC one is only $280 with shipping at The Egg.
 
LOL I'm still on the fence with either the ZR24w or the EA231WMI. If they were close to price I would pick HP, but the NEC one is only $280 with shipping at The Egg.

One is 16:10 and the other is 16:9. The HP is 1920x1200 and the NEC is 1920x1080. The HP has a 5ms response rate and the NEC is 14ms. They're two completely different monitors. I'm not even sure how you're comparing the two. The HP is a $500 monitor. It's only $425 right now due to a promo price. IMO 16x10 is clearly superior to 16x9. I wouldn't even consider that particular NEC model.
 
One is 16:10 and the other is 16:9. The HP is 1920x1200 and the NEC is 1920x1080. The HP has a 5ms response rate and the NEC is 14ms. They're two completely different monitors. I'm not even sure how you're comparing the two. The HP is a $500 monitor. It's only $425 right now due to a promo price. IMO 16x10 is clearly superior to 16x9. I wouldn't even consider that particular NEC model.

Maybe you should read more about the NEC one. http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/nec_ea231wmi.htm

It's not a bad monitor by any means.
 
Back
Top