How to Remove Liquid Metal Residues

FrgMstr

Just Plain Mean
Staff member
Joined
May 18, 1997
Messages
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As many of us have learned, if you have delidded your CPU and used a liquid metal TIM, when you go to change your configuration, the TIM can leave a lot of discoloration. So folks also use liquid metal TIM on to of their integrated heat spreaders as well. And this can lead to issues if you are trying to read the serial number on the CPU. der8auer shows you how to get that nastiness off, if you really need to. 10% hydrochloric acid makes for a good start!

Check out the video.
 
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He was using 4% in the video, but said not to go over 10%, but ya I would be worried about the etching coming off.

The etching should not come off. You would then be removing material from the IHS for that to happen.
 
"Discoloration". - ___-

"Discoloration"???? - ________-

"DISCOLORATION"!?!?! o_O o_O


What the FUCK have gamers come to??? Worried about "discoloration" now? :wtf:

What's next, white-glove tests and doilies??
 
"Discoloration". - ___-

"Discoloration"???? - ________-

"DISCOLORATION"!?!?! o_O o_O


What the FUCK have gamers come to??? Worried about "discoloration" now? :wtf:

What's next, white-glove tests and doilies??

If you RMA the chip, you need to have the serial number readable for the company to accept it for warranty work. If you use liquid metal then it has a very high chance of cosmetic discoloration occurring that will make the serial number on the chip to be unreadable. So the video was showing a method of removing the discoloration so that the chip's serial number can be successfully read and thus make your RMA a smoother process.
 
If you RMA the chip, you need to have the serial number readable for the company to accept it for warranty work. If you use liquid metal then it has a very high chance of cosmetic discoloration occurring that will make the serial number on the chip to be unreadable. So the video was showing a method of removing the discoloration so that the chip's serial number can be successfully read and thus make your RMA a smoother process.
But.... but... if you've already popped the lid on it, haven't you already voided warran.......


.....ooOOOoohhh....

... motherfuckers....
 
Wait, why would you use liquid metal between the IHS and heatsink? Liquid metal is going to eat away at copper or aluminum.
 
Wait, why would you use liquid metal between the IHS and heatsink? Liquid metal is going to eat away at copper or aluminum.
Yeah, I would highly suggest you folks NOT do that. Of course you can, but the amount needed could opens up all kinds of other issues inside your system. That shit gets everywhere...quickly.
 
The etching should not come off. You would then be removing material from the IHS for that to happen.

Yeah, that's what I was getting at. I thought 10% might be strong enough to etch metal in a reasonable timeframe
Wrong acid :)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acid

Looking at that article it seems like I am overestimating the risk of damaging the etching though since 18% is used for the "pickling" of steel
 
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